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entering a city at no time celebrated for its hos- India : there had been very many in France ; but pitality, struck a very dismal impression upon my they were now reduced to three or four: and, final. mind. They accompanied us a few paces : but it ly, there were some at Sabbation. His replies soon appeared that the gate was their station; to were given in a manner, which implied a desire to which, having received nothing from us, they re- represent the numbers of his people as consideraturned. We learnt, in the course of the evening, ble; rather than in a way, which at all convinced that these were only a small detachment of a very us of his knowing the condition, or even the existnumerous body of cunning women, who were fill- ence, of his brethren in other countries, concerning the whole city with their cries taking up a ing whom he offered this information. He stated wailing, with the design, as of old, to make the the fact of the Babylonish captivity; and said that eyes of all the inhabitants run down with tears, they were of the remnant which remained in the and their eyelids gush out with waters. (Jerem. land, and of those who subsequently returned; but ix. 17, 18.) For this good service, they would, the narrative in 2 Kings xvi. 24. &c. they reject the next morning, wait upon the government and as a fabrication. principal persons, to receive some trifling fee. On producing the Hebrew New Testament, we

On entering the city, we reached, in a short asked if it was lawful for them to read it; the space, the quarters of the Greek priests; where priest said that there was no restraint upon their we obtained a room, a very dirty one indeed, but reading any books whatever, and accepted the the best that was to be had.

copy which we offered. We also gave him an The Christians in this city are all of the Greek Arabic New Testament. communion. The priest's name is Baba Ysa. He said they were all in expectation of the MesThey are, in number, between twenty and thirty siah—that the Messiah would be a man, not the families: there are between seventy and eighty Son of God—and that this was the place, which males who pay the capitation-tax.' We found he would make the metropolis of his kingdom; them to be in mean circumstances, but very this was the place, of which the Lord had profriendly. They purchased a few Arabic Testa- mised, He would place his name there. We asked ments.

what passages of the Pentateuch, according to their views, spoke of the Messiah. He quoted, A prophet shall the Lord your God raise up

like unto me, go. This promise of the Messiah In the evening we visited the Samaritan priest, was not fulfilled in Joshua, for he was not a Shalmor Ben Tobiah. He seemed surprised that prophet. we should know his name, and asked us how we We begged to see the celebrated manuscript. had heard of him. When we informed him that He made many difficulties, though he readily allow. we knew him through previous travellers, he ed us to see the synagogue. We pressed our showed us the letter of a French gentleman, wishes, however; when he said there were many who had travelled three or four years ago this things previously requisite : he must go first to way, and had sent to make certain inquiries of the bath—he must light up many candles, &c. him.

We knew what this meant, and said that he would In a little time, we were joined by various others pay for all the candles ;* on which he consented of his people, in number about twelve. I was to show us the manuscript the next morning. struck to observe that the character of the priest's We then went down into the synagogue with physiognomy was far from Jewish: that of some his son and many of the company; but he did not of the party was Jewish. He informed us, that, accompany us. They made us take off more of among their people here, some were of the tribe our dress, than I had ever been despoiled of of Levi; namely, his own family, consisting of before—both my outer and inner shoes; and my four boys and a girl: only this family, however, “ ferwi,” a warm dress lined with fur. We saw as he is the only man of that tribe. He said that several Samaritan manuscripts on a shelf, wrapped there are four or five families of the tribe of Ma- up in cloth: they were written on skin. On our nasseh, and that all the rest are of Ephraim; ex- asking their price, a young man said that they cepting one of the tribe of Benjamin, who, while were not to be sold; that to sell them was we were speaking, came in. In all, they are be Haram” “ prohibited;" and that every letter was tween twenty and thirty houses. About sixty worth a sequin. The Samaritan character they males pay the capitation-tax. We asked him, call Ebrani; and refuse the type which we call how they would supply the priesthood, in case his Hebrew, as an innovation. family should fail : several replied, together, “ It Thursday, Nov. 20, 1823—Early this morning, never fails.”.., The priest, and his sons, alone, according to appointment, we visited the Samarihave the privilege of standing on the raised step tan priest. We waited for him some time ; durbefore the Torah in their synagogue.

ing which we placed in order our Bibles, and They said there were in Nablous a few Jewish selected some texts on which we desired to conhouses fewer than their own. To our inquiries, verse with him. At length he made his appearwhether there were any other Samaritans in the ance, and accompanied us into the synagogue. world, he replied there were some in England, With great reverence, he produced the venerable some in America, some in Benderbeshire* near manuscript, which he said was written by Abi

* I suppose him to mean Bushire, in the Persian Gulf, west-south-west, about 100 miles, from Shiraz. * Candles being very much used in places of worBender is a Persian word, signifying a mart or ship in the east, are almost a standard of ecclesias. emporium.

tical fees.

sha,* grandson of Aaron thirteen years after the although he acknowledged that he did not know death of Moses, now three thousand, four hundred where. We asked if there were any other pasand sixty years ago. We were not permitted to sages: he quoted no other this morning; but, yestouch the sacred book, but only to look at it, at terday, he had already cited Deut. xvii. 15. about a foot distance: the page at which he open On coming out, we asked how long this syna. ed showed, certainly, a very ancient manuscript, gogue had been occupied by them: he pointed to with the characters yet sufficiently distinct. He a small marble slab inserted in the wall

, engraven then showed us another of a similar form-appa- with Samaritan characters; which, he said, rerently an exact copy-which he said was eight corded the period of their occupying this buildinghundred years old. He also produced a few tat- now four hundred and ninety years. There were tered leaves of Walton's Polyglott-part of Gene- two or three other slabs with Samaritan characsis. We asked if they did not consider the Books ters, inserted in like manner in the wall. That of Joshua and Judges as sacred, in the same man which records the date of their possession of the ner as the Torah: he replied, “By no means : synagogue is in a small recess, on the left side of these two books we have, and we reverence them; the door. but the Torah is our only sacred book. Joshua Three times a year they go up Mount Gerizim : was not a prophet, but the disciple of a prophet, but we did not understand what their services that is, of Moses."

were on these occasions; not he said, to sacrifice, We inquired in which direction they turn their for fear of the Turks. When they do sacrifice, it faces, when they pray: he waved his hand in the is done in some private place, and in the city, that direction a little right of the angle behind the altar they may not be molested. We understood them that is nearly southward. In this direction is the to say that they had not a daily sacrifice.* city of Luz, which afterwards was called Bethel ; The house of this priest, and the synagogue the place which the Lord appointed to set His which adjoins it, are very clean-a perfect conname there.

trast to the inveterate filth of the Jewish houses We went out, and he directed his hand toward and synagogues, which we had seen at Tiberias the hill Gerizim, to a point, a little beyond which and Safet; one only excepted, that of the Austrian is the spot whither they go “to bless." It may consul at Tiberias. Whether this is owing to be observed, that the Samaritans here, according the national character of the Samaritans—if Nato the account which the priest gave of their TIONAL be a term applicable to a hundred pertribes, are all within the enumeration of those six sons-or whether it is owing to their being in totribes mentioned Deut. xxvii. 12, 13, whose lot it Jerably easy circumstances, or whether it is the was to repeat the blessings; the other six being case with the priest's house alone, which was the appointed to curse on Mount Ebal. He also only one we visited, it is not in my power to judge. directed his hand toward the spot, where those The priest, in a very friendly manner, asked

us were to stand who were appointed to curse. to take up our lodging with him for the night; as

We asked if the report was true, that, in any he had done on the evening before : but we designway, they worshipped the symbol of a dove-look-ed to leave at noon; and, therefore, bid him fareing, at the same time, to see if the emblem of the well

. He desired us to join our fingers together dove was any where to be seen on the curtain, with his, in token, as he said, that the English which screens the altar, as some had said. He were his friends ; adding, that he wished to be replied, “It is a falsehood of the Jews, who en considered as under English protection.t deavor to calumniate us."

As to Jerusalem, they have no respect for it as * When, on a subsequent occasion, I passed a holy city; regarding the Jews as their rivals, through Nablous, the chief layman of the Samariand speaking entirely in the spirit of the woman tans told me, that, at the passover, they still sacriof Samaria (John iv. 20:) Our fathers worshipped fice and eat the Paschal Lamb. in this mountain.

t On the subject of the Samaritans, the reader We then produced a few passages in the Pen- may consult Basnage's history of the Jews; and also tateuch, concerning which we desired to know Prideaux's Connexion, Part 1. Book 2. ' The fol

lowing extract is from Prideaux :bis opinion, whether or no they referred to the

“There is an old copy of the Samaritan PentaMessiah. Genesis üi. 15, (I will put enmily be teuch now shown at Shechem, (or Nablous, as they tween thee and the woman, and belween thy seed and now call it,) the head seat of that sect, which would her seed: it shall bruise thy head, and thou shalt put this matter beyond all dispute, were that true hruise his heel) he said did not refer to the Mes. which is said of it. For they tell us, that therein siah. Genesis xlix. 10, (The sceptre shall not are written these words:—“T Abishua, the son of depart from Judah, nor a lawgiver from between Phineas, the son of Eleazar, the son of Aaron, the his feei, unlil Shiloh come) they consider as a pro- of the tabernacle of the congregation, in the 13th

High Priest, have transcribed this copy at the door phecy of the Messiah, who is Shiloh: and, when vear of the children of Israel's entrance into the pressed on the circumstance, that the sceptre was Holy Land.” But Dr. Huntington, late bishop of already departed from Judah, he gave the expla- Rapho in Ireland, having, while chaplain to the nation which many of the Jews give, that Judah Turkey Company at Aleppo, been at Shechem, and has always hitherto existed and still exists some. there examined this copy upon the spot, found no where in the world, exercising regal authority; such words on the manuscript, nor thought the copy

ancient. Whether the Samaritans did, in ancient . We understood him to say grandson; but Abi- times, absolutely reject all the other Scriptures shua was great grandson. See 1 Chron. vi. 4. besides the Pentateuch, some do doubt; because it

+ According to our computation, it should be 3261 is certain, from the discourse of the woman of Samayears ago. Probably the mistake was ours in hear- ria with our Saviour, that they had the same expec

tations of a Messiah that the Jews had; and this they

ing him.


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shipping they knew not what an expression so

similar to that in the Acts of the Apostles (xvii. The character, and indeed the existence to the 23,) that it seems to describe them, while partialpresent day, of this now-diminished people, must ly enlightened, yet to be little better than heaappear a very singular fact. They seem to have thens: and He accordingly directs His disciples, made Nablous, what it anciently was to the Israel in the same verse, to decline going either to Genites when its name was Shechem, their Ciry of tiles or Samaritans; plainly intimating that the Refuge ;* and here, in some faint sense, to have Samaritans were not to be accounted, any more found security. Were their own account of their than the Gentiles, as of the house of Israel. (Matt. genealogy to be admitted, they might almost be x. 5, 6.) He, also, expressly denominated the regarded—according to our view of the division of Samaritan leper, a stranger. (Luke xvii. 18.) the twelve tribes between Rehoboam and Jero Their existence to the present day, maintaining boam-as representing the most ancient schism that very geographical post, to which, in consein the Church of God. This would place them on quence of their opinions, they must in every age a footing of greater antiquity than even the have been most partial, demonstrates, in a high Karaim; who claim for their date the return from degree, the extreme tenaciousness of party spirit. the Babylonish captivity.

Christianity-for this was once a Christian BiOf the true origin of the Samaritans, however, shopric—appears not to have dislodged these anwe shall naturally judge from those Scriptures, cient tenants of the mountains of Ephraim. In what which are by us received as canonical. A min- light their future conversion is to be regarded, gled race-principally Cuthæan, though partly, whether as belonging to the operations of general perhaps, of Israelitish blood—they have, in the Missionary Societies or of Societies for the Jews, course of ages, vainly endeavored to claim as an might be a question of some nicety, were it requihereditary right every privilege of Israel ; and to site to speculate upon it. They are, however, identify themselves, almost in a more exclusive too small a body-nearly confined, as there is reamanner than the Jews themselves, with the great son to believe, to this one district-to be consiHebrew Legislator. Their pretensions have never dered as peculiarly interesting to any one society been, to this day, admitted by the Jews; and, by more than another; unless (which is a mere conour Lord himself, they were repeatedly spoken of jecture) they should be in the secret possession of and treated as strangers.

facts, which might serve as a clue to any discoveIt is easy to account, therefore, for their repug- ries relative to the ten tribes. In a historical nance to receive a large portion of the books of point of view, they are certainly a kind of reliour holy Scriptures.

gious curiosity: in a practical view, they will proThe history of the Kings of Judah and Israel, bably be regarded alike by all missionaries as call. (although they acknowledge the fact, there recording for prayer and exertion. May they be brought ed, of the Babylonish captivity,) must be, above to flee to the sinner's only city of refuge, of whom all, peculiarly obnoxious, as fixing upon them the this city was a type—even to Him, who here grastigma of a spurious and idolatrous origin. See 2 ciously announced himself to a sinful woman ot Kings xvii. 34-41.

Samaria, as the Christ, the Saviour of the world! The Psalms, designed for the spiritual edification of the church in every place and age, yet record their rejection, and declare the superior favor shown to their rival city Jerusalem : Having, with much difficulty, compelled our " Moreover, he refused the tabernacle of Joseph, guides to prepare for departure from Nablous, they and chose not the tribe of Ephraim. But chose declaring that the whole city and country were the tribe of Judah, the Mount Sion which he in confusion on account of the death of the goverloved.” (Psalm lxvii. 67, 68, with other similar nor, we set off, at length, considerably after passages.) This invaluable treasure of devotion twelve o'clock. At the gate, our servants were is, therefore, in a manner lost to them.

long detained for a trifling exaction ; which we Isaiah must offend them, as he everywhere uses desired them, for the sake of all future travellers, the terms of Zion and Jerusalem, in describing to resist as long, and reduce as low, as possible. the seat of the Messiah's kingdom. Jeremiah For about two shillings, they at length escaped confirms the expressions quoted from the Psalms. with a great deal of abuse of us as Franks and (Jer. vii. 15, also ü. 17.) Micah gives to Beth- Christians. lehem thc honor of Messiah's birth. Daniel, in his prayer, declares Jerusalem to be the holy mountain of God. And thus it is with many other passages of the Old Testament.

We, in the mean time, took our route through Our Lord expressly charges them with wor- the extensive and picturesque olive-grounds which

lie on the southern side of Nablous. These open,

at length, upon a fine valley, which stretches to say they could no where clearly have, but from the the right and left; and which from its fertility, prophets. And it cannot be denied, but that there may well be regarded as a worthy portion for is some force in this argument. Perchance, although Jacob to have given to his beloved son Joseph. they did read the Pentateuch only in their syna- It runs nearly north-east and south-west : the val. gogues, yet anciently they might not have been without a due regard to the other sacred writings, ley of Nablous, being at right angles to it, lies conwhatsoever their sentiments may be of them at pre-sequently about north-west and south-east. sent.”

Leaving the valley of Nablous, the high-tower• Joshua xx. 7, and xxi. 21.

ing rocks of Mount Ebal and Mount Gerizim





seemed to assume a more than common awful At length, while the sun was yet two hours ness; from the effect of a thick haze which was high, my long and intensely interesting suspense just gathering upon the air. Winding on the right was relieved. The view of the city burst upon hand round the base of Mount Gerizim, we gra- me as in a moment; and the truly graphic landually ascended for some distance; having the guage of the Psalmist was verified, in a degree of abovementioned valley of Joseph just beneath us which I could have formed no previous concepon the left. We arrived only by sunset at the tion. Continually, the expressions were bursting ruined khan, called Khan Leban; and had now to from my lips—“ Beautiful for situation, the joy of ascend a steep and rocky road, leading to the vil- the whole earth, is Mount Zion !—They, that lage of Sangyl, when the sky burst upon us with trust in the Lord, shall be as Mount Zion; which torrents of rain and furious blasts of wind, for half cannot be removed, but abideth for ever !-As the an hour. On arriving at our poor village, we mountains are round about Jerusalem, so the went to the house of the only Christian family in Lord is round about his people, from henceforth the place; who kindly made us a blazing fire, at even for ever!" which we were glad to dry ourselves and take sup Among the vast assemblage of domes which per.

adorn the roofs of the convents, churches, and houses, and give to this forlorn city an air even of magnificence, none seemed more splendid than

that which has usurped the place of Solomon's Friday, Nov. 21, 1823.- We started a little | Temple. Not having my companion with me, I after sunrise, and began to descend into the val- surveyed all in silence and rapture; and the elegant ley ; somewhere in the neighborhood of which was proportions, the glittering gilded cresent, and the Bethel—the spot where Jacob beheld the vision beautiful green blue color of the mosque of Omar of angels; and received those encouraging assur were peculiarly attractive. A more soothing ances of the presence and protection of God, part of the scenery was the lovely slope of the which were his support all his life long. Here, Mount of Olives on the left. As we drew nearer more than five and thirty centuries ago, this patri- and nearer to the city of the great King, more and arch dedicated himself to the Lord, in terms, more manifest were the proofs of the displeasure which are still well suited to express, what should of that great King resting upon his city. be the moderate desire of every missionary—“If God will be with me and keep me in this way, and will give me bread to eat and raiment to put on ... then shall the Lord be my God.”

Like many other cities of the east, the distant The road through which we passed was, in many view of Jerusalem is inexpressibly beautiful : but parts, very picturesque ; but a more particular allu- the distant view is all. On entering at the Dasion to it will appear in a subsequent page. mascus gate, meanness, and filth, and inisery, not

exceeded, if equalled, by any thing which I had before seen, soon told the tale of degradation. How

is the fine gold become dim ! On reaching the rocky heights of Beer, the Thus I went onward. pitying every thing and country began to assume a more wild appearance. every body that I saw-till

, turning off to the right, Uncultivated hilly tracts, in every direction, seem- and having passed up what is called the “Via ed to announce, that, not only Jerusalem, but its Dolorosa,” from its being the supposed path of vicinity for some miles round, was destined to sad- our Lord when he bore his cross on the way to den the heart of every visiter. Even the stranger his crucifixion, we, at length, alighted at the that shall come from a far land, it was predicted Greek convent of Mar Michael. (Deut. xxix. 22,) should be amazed at the plagues Jaid upon this country: and this became, more FIRST FEELINGS AND REFLECTIONS IN JERUSALEM. than ever, literally fulfilled, in my feelings, as I drew near to the metropolis of this chosen nation. During the first few hours after our arrival in Expectation was, indeed, wrought up to a high the holy city, there was little to stir up the heart pitch, as we ascended hill after hill, and beheld to a lively feeling, that this is really that venerable others yet more distant rising after each other. and beloved place, renowned above all others in

Being apprehensive lest I should not reach the Scripture. Hunger, fatigue, and the cheerlesscity gate before sunset, Mr. Fisk having gone on ness of an eight hours' ride over a peculiarly desome way before me in order to prepare our rooms, solate tract of country, with no other refreshment I repeatedly desired the guides to ask the Arabs than a small jar of boiled rice and some bread, whom we met, how far, or according to the lan- would have been agreeably relieved by the wel. guage of this country, “how many hours," it was come of pleasant countenances, sufficient food, to Jerusalem. The answer which we received and a warm room: but our apartments, which had from all was, “We have been at the prayers at not been occupied for six months, were floored and the mosque of Omar, and we left at noon” vaulted with stone-fire-places are unknown in to-day being the Mohammedan Sabbath. We this land-our provisions were all to seek : and, were thus left to calculate our distance. The at this late hour of the day, scarcely to be found reply sounded very foreign to the ears of one, who --Hadjee Demetrius, the servant of the convent, knew that, formerly, there were scenes of purer in a sort of broken Turco-Grecian dialect, profferworship on this spot. “Thither the tribes go up, ed his tedious and awkward services—the baggage the tribes of the Lord, to the testimony of Israel, was to be looked after-the mercenary and clato give thanks unto the name of the Lord.” morous guides were to be (not satisfied: that was



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an impossibility ; buty settled with and dismissed lattice, at which the smoke of the incense soon -and, lastly, as if to diffuse a perfect sadness began to enter : the striking of the wood was in. over our arrival, the storm, which had threatened stead of the ringing of a bell; and, in a few moments, and slightly touched us during the latter part of I heard the voices of two or three ecclesiastics our stage, now began to fall in torrents, similar commencing the drowsy monotonous chant of the to those which had buffeted us on the preceding Greek Liturgy. This service was observed by evening near Sangyl. Every thing combined to them every morning. inspire a feeling of melancholy-congenial enough On rising, it was pleasant to view from my to those emotions with which the actual civil and chamber window the mild scenery of the Mount religious condition of Jerusalem deserves now to of Olives. This mountain gradually increases in be contemplated; but, in no degree harmonizing beauty, till about the second hour after sunrise ; with those sublimer and more glorious thoughts, when the swells and slopes upon its side present a which the very name of this city generally very soft variation of light and shade, at this awakens in the bosom of the Christian.

season of the year. When the evening had closed, however, and In the course of the day, one of the monks of the hour for retirement, devotion, and repose ar- the principal Greek convent called to bring the rived, all that I had ever anticipated as likely to salutations of the Epitropi, or superintendents. be felt on reaching this place, gradually came into Many others, also, who knew Mr. Fisk and his my mind, and filled me with the most lively con- brethren in their former visits, came with presents sciousness of delight, at being in Jerusalem. in their hands, and inquired what Bibles and Tes“This”-I thought—"is no other than the city of taments we had brought. David. Hither, the queen of the south came to hear the wisdom of Solomon. Isaiah here poured forth strains of evangelic rapture, which will glow with unspent warmth till the end of time. Here, Sunday, Nov. 23.—In the morning we had di. the building of the second temple drew from the vine service in our room ; together with an Eng. beholders mingled shouts and tears; and, here, lish gentleman, now in Jerusalem. was that very temple, made more glorious than After dinner several monks from the principal the first, by the entrance of the desire of all na- Greek convent called upon us; and conversed, as tions, the Messenger of the covenant! Here, after they may naturally be expected to do, concerning He had rebuilt the temple of his own body, he the calamities of their church. One of them stabegan the wondrous work of raising a spiritual ted the case thus: “Why do not the European temple to his Father-shedding abundantly upon Christian powers unite in putting down our ene. his disciples the gift of the Holy Ghost, for which mies? We are your brethren: when Abraham they waited in this very city; and then sending heard that Lot was taken by the five kings, he them forth as his witnesses to the uttermost parts of immediately set off with his company, and overthe earth."

took them, and rescued his nephew.” I need not Such were the principal thoughts, with which I repeat, that, upon this topic, which we inevitably had for some months associated this visit; and, hear frequently discussed, we find it best to be now, all were gradually presented to my mind. silent–our office being rather to draw religious

I felt, I confess, no particular anxiety to see uses from the melancholy state of things; and to what are called the “ holy places." Many have apply the remedy to the heart, out of which prohastened to offer their first devotions at the sepul- ceed wars and fightings.

chre of our Lord: so far from having this desire, I feel sornewhat of repugnance at the idea : it is enough for me to know, that I am not far from that scene—that Gethsemane, and Calvary, and the Shortly after this party had left us, another perplace where the Lord lay, are all so near to me, that son entered. The moment he opened the door, 1 I can truly say, I am dwelling in the midst of them. exclaimed, “ You need not tell me of what coun. All this, too, my heart can better conceive in the try that man is. This is an Abyssinian.” His stillness of the night-season, than by the light of resemblance to the few Abyssinians whom I have day. And He, who suffered here, still lives- seen, and to the living picture given by Ludolf of Jesus Christ, the same yesterday, to day, and for Abba Gregorius, in complexion, form, and expresever! Spiritually he is as near to me, as he would sion of countenance, his dress, his manner, all behave been had I seen him, this very day, at the spoke his nation. He bowed, or rather crouched ninth hour expiring upon the cross: the blood then and fawned, toward us ; repeating the word “Sashed is still fresh in its efficacy, and cleanseth us Jamat”-) will not say a thousand, or even a from all sin. If to have come hither should prove hundred times—but certainly so often, and with the means of raising me one degree higher in love such profuse servility, that we knew not whether to this adorable Redeemer, I would be thankful : 1 to be more amused or wearied; and as this was but let me remember, that he desires us chiefly to his uniform custom at all future interviews, we as view him with the eye of faith ; and that, although uniformly used to sum up our reply to him, in plain "we see Him not in the flesh, yet, believing, we English, “ Salamat a thousand times !"_“ A thoumay rejoice in Him with joy unspeakable and full sand healths or compliments to you !" Not that. of glory.”

this brevity on our part caused him to intermit his Saturday, Nov. 22, 1823.—I was early awaken- reiterated Salamats: for whatever powerful efed in the morning, by some person in the convent fects western nations may attribute to a direct, chapel striking a piece of wood. My room com- brief, and blunt method of accosting both friends municatog with the unner part of the chapel, by al and foes, the men of the east are well acquainted


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