my steps; and on which I thankfully proceeded, although it became shortly after as thick as ever; but before I had gone far, it again entirely cleared up; and I was thus enabled, after a tedions walk, and not until it was quite dark, to rejoin the wagons. Two men had been sent out in quest of me, but I did not fall in with them until I had reached the foot of the mountain. In the course of my scramble I picked up, on some of the highest points, several specimens of agate, which were lying about on the surface in great quantities. They occur generally in small irregular pieces, about the size of a nutmeg, and appear to be very transparent. From this circumstance, I have given the valley the name of Agate Vale. Sunday, 11th. "Be careful for nothing; but in every thing, by prayer and supplication, with thanksgiving, let your requests be made known unto God." (Philipp. iv. 6.) Hence, ye vain corroding cares, Never more my heart oppress; A throne of grace is there revealed, And leave our anxious burdens there. And oh how full the promise runs— In every time of need draw near, And I will deal with you as sons, And banish every doubt and fear. Nought that is needful I restrain, And you may ask for all you need ; None ever came to me in vain ; My promise you may always plead. But let not prayer alone ascend; Shall we the cup of blessing drink, And thankless our petitions end? No more upon our mercies think! Acceptance we could never gain; A fiery sword would bar the way, Had not the blood of Jesus slain Procured access whereby we pray. And never can we fully know, Until we reach the realms of love, The debt of gratitude we owe To such an Advocate above. Well then with prayer may praise unite— So shall that perfect peace be ours, Which none but suppliants fully share; And we shall deem our happiest hours Were those that we have spent in prayer. Morning-English service in the tent ;-Afternoon.--Kafir ditto in the open air. Monday, 12th.-Went out in two parties to explore a road. This time I was attended by two people, a Hottentot, and a Zoolu. My horse having had such a severe lesson in the antelope step on Saturday, I thought it but fair that it should not be repeated to-day; and, indeed, as it turned out, he would only have proved an in cumbrance. As we ascended, the effect of the new and the old grass divided by the river, which had obstructed the burning, was singular, and had all the appearance of the distinguishing colors of two contiguous countries on a map. Never do I remember to have a more difficult scramble; in many places it was necessary only to regard the actual rocks over which I was clambering: the precipices on each side were too fearful to be contemplated for a moment. After all this toil I was again disappointed in obtaining a glimpse of the country beyond: the ridge upon which I was standing suddenly terminated at my feet, in a perpendicular chasm, which, until I reached the brink, had appeared to be connected with an opposite pinnacle, adjoining the crest of the Giant's Cup. To return by the way I had come I considered as impossible; and it was this conviction which in part had induced me to proceed thus far: there appeared, however, no alternative. The descent was commenced by letting myself down one or two of the most difficult places; but the worst was yet to come. Just at this critical point, one of the men most providentially discovered a less perilous route, by which we were enabled to reach the valley in safety. Bare and sterile rocks occupy the highest elevations of these mountains; but the middle and lower regions are scantily clothed in detached patches with trees, chiefly the protea grandiflora, which grows from five to twelve or fourteen feet in height. Many of the heaths are very beautiful; but did not strike me as differing from those which I have met with in the Cape Colony. The most common bear a white daisy-like flower. Bamboo from ten to twelve feet high are found near the banks of the river. The most remarkable is a tree which is evidently a connecting link between the palms and the ferns: the nearest approach that I have seen is the Zamia or Kafir-bread tree; but this is evidently a variety, the leaves of each branch being precisely those of the fern, while those of the Kafir-bread tree partake of the palm. The trunks of those in question, which are only found on the lower slopes and valleys, are similar to the palmyra—but seldom exceed six or seven feet in height; and, when blackened by the burning of the grass may easily be taken for a man at a distance. Though disappointed in my chief object, I was not a little gratified by the peculiar grandeur of the mountain scenery, which exhibited in great variety many of the sublimest characteristics of Alpine regions,the rocks, in many situations, being rent and scattered about in shapeless fragments and in others standing erect, like the ruins of ancient castles. Their general composition, as far as I could ascertain, was compact and soft limestone; the former abounding with minute particles of quartz. While we were on the summit a column of smoke was observed to rise from a distant point of the same range, towards the S. W., probably some grass I still ignited, as it is now evident that these exten sive burnings must have swept over the whole country from the inhabited districts near the coast. We did not reach the bivouac until it was dark; and as no provisions could be taken, after nine hours of nearly constant walking and scrambling, I felt quite ready for a mess of our gipsy fare. The other party had already returned, but without success. ed the colony in the neighborhood of the Stormberg. The vicissitudes of climate are here very great: yesterday the heat was almost tropical: to-day the wind from the S. W. is high, and we are all suffering from the cold: the natives nearly benumbed. As soon About nine this morning we broke up our bi vouac, and taking our final leave of Agate Vale with is romantic rocks and precipices, proceeded as soon as we had turned the mountains which margin this sequestered valley, in a S. W. direction by compass. Before noon we reached a very rocky stream, in the attempt to ford which the baggage-wagon was thrown over. Happily nothing material was broken; and the provisions escaped with but a trifling wetting, though most of the other things were thoroughly soaked. as it was entirely lightened, the sides were lashed down to the bed; and, with the united strength of ourselves and the oxen, it was again placed upon its wheels and drawn up the bank. The other wagon crossed by a better ford, soon after discovered at a short distance above; and here of course it became necessary to remain a sufficient time to repair damages, and dry the bedding, &c. This morning, while riding in front of the wagons, I picked up the handle of a native hoe, which appeared to have been long exposed to the weather: although in itself a trifling circumstance, it could not be viewed without interest in this solitary wilderness: and I regard it either as an indication of our approach to the habitable abodes of man, or as a memento of a race now extinct, or driven by the invader far from the land of their nativity. Afternoon. We had not proceeded more than four miles when we were obliged to cross another river, which I consider to be still the Umzincoolu; that which we forded this morning being a smaller stream, and appearing to fall into it at no great distance below. To this I have given the name of Cyrus Ford.* Spanned out soon after sunset. Distance travelled about fifeen miles-general course, S. W. Road good over open downs with Tuesday, 13th.-As no practicable road has been discovered by either party, and there is every probability of there being as broken a country for some distance on the other side of these mountains as (contrary to every previous account) we have proved to be the case on this, I have decided, after well considering our present position, as well as our future prospects as to provisions, to send back one wagon, with two spans of oxen, to Port Natal; and to proceed with the remainder of the oxen, packed with the provisions, &c., on foot. The baggage wagon I purpose leaving here. This, under existing circumstances, appears to be the quickest, and indeed the surest way of reaching the colony. Our present distance, west of the meridian of Port Natal, I consider to be about one hundred geographical miles, the true course made good W by N half N.; and that by shaping a S. W.compass course, we shall reach Stockenstrom's river, and enter the colonial boundary by the district of New Hantam, which is the nearest point. Friday, 16th.-The rain, which continued nearly the whole of Wednesday, prevented us from making the necessary preparation for packing the oxen, &c. The cold was quite piercing, with a sharp frost during the night. Yesterday, after much previous practice with stuffed bags and a great deal of trouble, the oxen were at length packed, their noses having been bored for the purpose; and in the afternoon we commenced our new mode of travelling. To an indifferent spectator our appearance at this time would have been somewhat ludicrous: but few out of the whole number of oxen were decidedly quiet under their burdens, while by far the greater part were rebellious; and in consequence spanned in two-out trees. and-two, with the tractow between, and led in the usual manner, with the hope of keeping them thus under sufficient control. Between the two front pair the camp kettle was suspended from the yoke; and to the horns and yokes of the rest many of the lighter articles-such as mats, tin mugs, &c. were attached. We had not, however, proceeded far when some of the latter floundered in crossing a rivulet, and one regularly packed, from which better things were expected, with a violent effort dislodged his burden; and, in the struggle to disengage himself from it altogether, rent the greater part into shreds with his horns and feet. My driver, Richard King, was still limping from a kick he had received in the course of this morning's training; and at once perceiving, from the difficulties attending this first essay, that we were likely to have much trouble by the way, and that in all probability more than half the provisions would be damaged, I was induced to give up the attempt, and returned, with the intention of taking on both wagons, and endeavoring to cross the mountains at another point; and, should this still be found impracticable, to follow their course, keeping as near them as possible, until we reach Saturday, 17th.-I do not recollect ever to have suffered so much from cold as during the past night. Some water which remained in the bucket was frozen a quarter of an inch thick. A South African wagon is but a poor defence against wind, every part being moveable and well adapted for admitting currents of fresh air in all directions; and this being my only dwelling for the time being, no fire that could have been kindled would have availed. As the last stick was consumed in cooking our supper last night, we moved off this morning fasting. The weather was again warm, and the sun powerful; but, after travelling about ten mile, we found ourselves not more than two or three from our last night's bivouac-a succession of steep and rocky precipices frequently impeding our progress, and being the usual termination of the most even and promising-looking downs. In the course of these disappointing circuits, I was, at one time, quite startled at the appearance of a rugged mountain which I have named the Giant's Castle, as seen over an intervening hill. Its resemblance to Edinburgh Castle, from one or two From my interpreter, Gorge Cyrus. points, was so striking that, for the moment, I could almost fancy myself transported to Prince's Street -an illusion which, as it passed my mind, made me more than ever sigh for the termination of the trackless wilderness, and the cheering sight of the abodes of man. Crossed with some difficulty a small rivulet, and spanned out on the opposite side. Afternoon.-Crossed a stream which appeared to unite itself with the river I have taken to be the Umzimcoolu, further down. On gaining the opposite bank, our curiosity was greatly excited by the appearances of human foot-prints in the sand. From these marks, it was evident that two persons, accompanied by a dog, had very recently forded the stream in a contrary direction to that we were taking. The general conclusion was, that they were bushmen, who had either traversed the mountains in quest of game, or were the inhabitants of some neighboring district on this side of the Quathlamba range. In the course of this day's journey we fell in with several hartebeests and elands, as also a herd of gneu, eleven in number. The latter are known in the colony by the name of wilderbeest (wild beast ;) a most indefinite appellation, which has been given to them by the Dutch. About sunset spanned out under some hills in the neighborhood of both wood and water. As several lateral ridges are here observed to branch off to the S. E., like buttresses from the main range, the prospect of finding a practicable pass through the mountains in this direction is more cheering. Travelled twenty-one miles-general course, S. W. Sunday, 18th. And Jesus oft himself becomes Grace makes the howling desert bright An Eden bloom where all was drear; It soothes in sorrow's darkest night, And chases every anxious fear. For ever then that grace impart, I cannot want if Thou art night! Morning-English service in the tent; Afternoon-Kafir ditto in the open air. Monday, 19th.-The level of the country has gradually ascended since yesterday afternoon, and we were to-day in great expectation that we had at length gained the wished-for pass. Appearances were certainly favorable-we were enabled, with the wagons, to ascend almost to the height of some of the rocky eminences, which I was inclined to consider as a part of the main range, and, finding a deep valley before us, I left the party to span out, and climbing over a long and craggy ridge to the right, reached some table land. The result of this two hours' scramble was still disappointment. It proved to be only a collateral ridge, between which and the real Quathlamba a series of steep and rocky chasms precluded the possibility of approach. On these heights several plants of indigo were growing, similar to those so abundant in the neigh"Can God furnish a table in the wilderness ?"-borhood of Port Natal, where two or three species (Psalm lxxviii. 19. See also Isaiah xlv. 17. 18.) How sweet when kindred hearts unite, To each that hallowed hour conveys! How sure the promise-precious word!- And there my presence shall be sweet!" But are there, then, no streams that flow For weary pilgrims by the way! Is there no ear to heed their wo No voice to answer when they pray? Ah, yes! omnipotent to save, The Lord our Refuge still is near, Alike to solace on the wave, Or in the wilderness to cheer! How oft a table there he spreads, Refreshing showers of heavenly dews. Though oft we seem, like Ishmael, left Of every outward means bereft, E'en there the living streams are nigh. are found. Afternoon.-There being no choice, we crossed the neck, and by a very steep descent entered a narrow valley between high mountains, from which, after crossing the stream that wound through it, we had some difficulty in extricating ourselves, the entrance being so narrow, and the night clos ing in upon us before we had emerged from the defile. Travelled twenty miles-general course S. W. Tuesday, 20th.-Completed the descent which we had been unable to do last night, having been obliged to span out on sloping ground; and, on reaching the flat below, twice crossed the stream which was winding through it, and soon after a branch of the same. Near this spot some burnt, sticks were observed, so methodically arranged near the skull of an eland, that there seemed little doubt that a fire had here been kindled by some wandering bushman or other native in order to dress the meat of the animal that had been killed. As the ridges continued to run off to the south-east, to avoid a considerable circuit we crossed the only practicable one; but it was a severe labor for the poor oxen, requiring both spans to each wagon on ascending, and no less than three wheels to be locked as we descended on the other side, where it was necessary to apply reims to the sides, in order to keep them from falling over. On gaining the first even ground we spanned out. From our present position, and the tendency of all the streams we are now crossing, I consider that they fall into the Umzimvoobo.-Rocks still sandstone, | cooking bowls, a head-plume and armlet of hair, with fine particles of quartz. with several other articles, but more especially the traces of the horses, sufficiently proved who had been the late occupants of this singular place of refuge. It could have been no other than a party of Amakōsa, who had retreated into this mountain fastness; and a more well-chosen place for defence it is scarcely possible to conceive. Wednesday, 21st-We were prevented by a storm of heavy rain, attended with thunder, from completing the descent yesterday afternoon, which with the usual preparation of locking three wheels, and holding on ropes, was this morning effected, the last slope being just as difficult and precipitous as the first. Having crossed the stream which divided the base of the mountain from another, up which it was necessary to toil, we gained a more level country, traversing downs, until we again reached the same stream further to the westward, where we spanned out. One solitary hartebeest, with a few bucks, (ore buck,) alone were seen. Afternoon. The route again becoming very intricate, and requiring much inspection, we were unable to proceed far, as the sun had nearly set when we gained the neighboring height, when we halted for the night. Distance travelled, twelve miles-general course, W. The cave itself could contain at least one hundred persons; and from the irregularity of the approach, and the numerous masses of rock lying detached about its mouth, its very existence might have long been concealed, while in the immediate neighborhood there is good and ample pasturage for a numerous herd of cattle. From various appearances, I am of opinion that they could not have quitted the spot more than six or seven weeks previously; had it been otherwise, and Kafir mercy is unfortunately but too well we should have been completely at their mercy known. With respect to their movements, but two conjectures could be formed; they had either abandoned their rock refuge on the notification of Friday, 23rd.-Finding yesterday morning that peace with the colony, or with the intention of a continued barrier of steep rocks prevented all concentrating their scattered forces in a place progress to the south-west, we again descended, more favorable for general combination. The and following the windings of a steep acclivity, former I consider as the most probable; but while skirted on our right by the river, forcing its pas- a doubt remains on the subject, it is sufficient to sage by a series of cataracts over the huge frag- deter me from proceeding any further in a southments of rock that encumbered its bed, we pro-westerly direction, as from reports received when ceeded up the ravine, anxiously looking for an outlet. Hemmed in on two sides by steep and rugged mountains, we were still enabled for three miles to continue our course to the westward; but here a stop was at once put to all further advance, the mountains uniting near this point, and presenting nothing but a confused mass of crags and precipices, towering to a considerable height. To span out was obvious-nothing further was practicable for wagons: parties, however, were soon detached in different directions; but after a toilsome and difficult scramble to the summit of the neighboring heights, which proved to be our unyielding friends, the noted Quathlamba, we all returned with the same unfavorable report that it was utterly impossible to proceed. Level spots indeed were there-and could the wagons by any means have been conveyed to the top, it is probable that for five or six miles they might travel without difficulty; but, then the descent!-and the complete labyrinth of rocky precipices which seemed to intersect the country in every direction, made it evident that the same labor must be repeated again and again, before we could hope to surmount the difficulties with which we were beset. While on this fruitless search, numerous traces of horses and cattle were observed; and Jacob reported that he had traced a well-beaten path to the brink of a cave, which appeared to be inhabited. No time was lost in exploring this unexpected haunt; and following the winding footpath for about half a mile further up the valley, we suddenly reached the mouth of a cavern, formed by a huge slab of rock jutting out from the precipice, the interior of which had been ingeniously partitioned off by trunks and branches of trees, so as to form four separate rooms or compartments. Marks of fire were every where visible remnants of mats, bunches of Indian corn, last at Bunting, and more especially from the Several Distance travelled fourteen miles-general course, This morning crossed a stream, apparently a branch of a larger, issuing from the mountains more to the westward, and which, from its general course and size, I consider to be the Umzimvoobo; its source cannot be far from the position we occupied yesterday morning. Continued our progress over open downs without trees; herds of gneu in all directions, in one of them I counted thirty-seven; two shots were fired, but without effect. When seen at full gallop, with their heads down, their long white tails floating in the wind, and the necks and foreheads thickly covered with long shaggy hair, they have a most ferocious appearance. On gaining the heights we had a fine view of the Quathlamba range, which, as far as they were visible, appeared to run in one continuous line due east and west by compass. The highest points (Saddle-back and the Giant's Cup) I should not suppose were more than 4000 feet from the level of the valley, probably not so much. A remarkable detached peak has been in view, bearing by compass E. by S. On our right is an extensive undulating plain bounded by mountains, through which the river I take to be the Umzimvoobo is observed to make many windings. One of my people (Georgo,) who had accompanied the last expedition of the Zoolus against Tpai, recognised it as the spot where the guides lost their way, and in consequence the army was obliged to return. And bowls, and plumes, and corn we found, Oh! could these crags the tale unfold, How oft on Abaloongu's* race But all is still-and now again By fiercer men thus dispossessed; Adieu, ye rocky heights-adieu! For there my Maker's power I trace; Unbounded flows His sovereign grace. What though no human voice is there, And waft the breath of praise; And who alone your peaks could raise. Saturday, 24th.-This morning before we started a gneu was killed, the flesh of which was soon after suspended at the back of the wagon. Continued over open downs, skirted by mountains; troops of gneu prancing about in all directions; spanned out at nine. Afternoon.-Several gneu in sight. On riding towards them they often stand and snort for some time, and then suddenly plunge, kick up, and lash their tails, and in an instant are off at full gallop, making the dust fly as they sweep over the hills. Compared to our late difficulties all seemed now smooth and plain, indeed, in the direction we are now travelling, open undulating downs generally Afternoon. - Appearance of the country the lay in our way; the slopes, however, are often where I stood; there must have been many more same; counted seventy-six gneu from the spot very steep and rocky. Soon after sunset reached in the neighborhood. About midway took a last a valley, where we stopped for the night; we had look at the Quathlamba; they were soon aftertaken the precaution of carrying wood in the wa-wards hid by the mountains we were approachgon, or we should have been unable to have pro-ing; at this time the peak over Cavernglen bore cured any this evening. Travelled twenty-one miles-general course, S. E. half S. ON LEAVING THE QUATHLAMBA Although we toiled in vain to clamber Deep in the mazes of that dark defile, Of rocky fragments strewed around, The cave was black with smoke and flame, As though they'd just been sleeping there N.W. by N. by compass. Having collected sufficient fire-wood by the way, we spanned out about sunset on the bank of a rocky river. Travelled twenty-one miles-general course, S. E. Sunday, 25th. "I will never leave thee nor forsake thee." (Hebrews xiii. 5.) Oh! for faith to walk aright, Seeing Him who's always near; How 't would sweeten every care, The general term for white men among all these tribes. |
