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which I had only tasted once, being now consum- thing remained but to make the best of our mised. But this evening we were most unexpectedly fortune; a most inviting glen was near-and thiprovided with an excellent supper. My servant, ther in less than half an hour fires were blazing, Umpondombeeni, who was in advance on the and many of the wet things spread around them beach, had observed a large bird (I conclude an to dry. The situation of our rock-habitation was albatros) rising from the surf with a fish in his one of no common character-a secluded glen, bill, which he soon dropped on the sand, and com- tufted with trees and overhung by a rocky precimenced eating ; on his approach, it made an effort pice, with a pretty cascade falling from an oppoto convey it away; rose with it, but soon dropped site cliff. The stream which occupies this ravine it again, and flew off. I need not say that it was falls again in its passage to the sea over a ledge of soon conveyed to our bush ; and, being about the rocks, just below the spot where the accident ocsize of a salmon, and of good flavor, furnished us curred. Wet as I was, I could not resist drying with a sumptuous meal. Cleared up about mid- some paper, and making a hasty sketch of our night.
bivouac* before the sun became too low. Tuesday, 28th.--Started soon after seven, and Wednesday, 29th.—As the wagon-road from the crossed the Amâne-neama (black-water,) which Umsicāba strikes more inland, leading to no inhawas still running out, and in one part nearly out bitants until within a few miles of the Umzimof the oxen's depth. The descent to the Umten- voobo, I took my leave of it this morning; and, do, which we reached at a quarter-past eleven, is with my interpreter and two of the people, reconsidered as the most difficult part of the road solved to follow the footpath nearer the sea, which from the colony to Port Natal; not from the ac- passes through a village, at about a day's jour. tual declivity, but from the number of large irre- ney from hence. At a quarter-past eight we gular rocks, which literally strew the bank. The commenced our walk, and soon after ten crossed whole scenery in this neighborhood has a rugged the bar of the Umsicaba, which was running out appearance, and abounds with picturesque fea- by a very narrow channel. Although navigation tures, to which the winding of the river greatly is impeded by the banks which form across the contributes. Some of the cliffs are luxuriantly mouths of by far the greater number of rivers clothed—while others, rising abruptly in barren which discharge themselves upon this coast, it appiles and exhibiting a reddish tint, form a striking pears to be wisely ordained for the purpose of contrast. My contemplations of this scene were irrigating the interior; or, otherwise, during the soon disturbed by a dilemma, which might have winter or dry season, many of them would become occasioned considerable difficulty. The unfortu- mere brooks, while others would entirely cease to nate cart which had been gradually jolting its way flow. Occasions have occurred when they have down from rock to rock, was suddenly caught by been let out by cutting a channel through the a projecting angle, and twice completely reversed bar—somtimes to obtain a wagon passage higher as it rolled down the bank. The boxes were dis- up; and in one or two instances in order to shoot engaged by the violence of the fall; which hap- the hippopotami in the bed : on these occasions pily was checked by the stem of a tree, or the the stream has been rapidly drained, and in a few whole would probably have been broken to pieces hours become very shallow. The country through and precipitated into the river. Happily, nothing which we were now passing is very open and of any material consequence was injured; and in rocky. Rested for half an hour on the bank of a the course of an hour every thing was again in rocky stream, and shared with the people half a its place, and we were outspanned near a stream loaf of eziuqua—the only remaining provisions we of good water on the opposite side. Although had with us. As we approached the village the the advantage over a wagon is greatly in our favor appearance of the country was greatly improved as regards speed, the weights were necessarily -abrupt hills appeared before us, clothed to their placed too high in our present vehicle for stability ; summit with large trees, while many beautiful so that the probabilities of an overturn, especially ravines opened to our right. Skirting one of when dragging one of the wheels, as in the pre- these roads we reached Umnooka's, a village alsent instance, is considerably increased.
most surrounded with trees, at twenty minutes The oxen having strayed, we were unable to past five-having walked about twenty-six miles. proceed before half-past three; when, coming The people are poor, aud the huts miserable (only soon after to a rocky stream, I resumed my seat, six in number ;) still it was the abode of manhoping to have passed dryshod—in this, however, and circumstanced as we were a cheering sight. I was disappointed. The ledge in one part is On entering my hut, I was rather discomposed at very narrow—the water middle-deep on both discovering in one corner a flourishing colony of sides ; just as we came to the most critical spot young puppies ; but not thinking it quite civil unthe oxen bore too much to the left, and again ceremoniously to cject them, I inquired of Umoverset the cart into the water, giving me a cold nooka whether they were to remain there all bath—for which I was by no means prepared, the night; his reply, “ they were born there,” was day being far from warm. I was alone on the cart, still more unsatisfactory, and pleaded so strongly and most providentially escaped without even in their behalf, that I thought I could not do less bruise ; although it was completely reversed, and than tolerate my troublesome companions. Some fell close to me. Not only was I thoroughly boiled sweet potatoes was all I could procure that soaked, but every article in my box was dripping was eatable-every other attempt to satisfy my wet,—not a dry thread had any of us to put on. hunger only increased my discomfort. A bow), It was now the employment of all hands to right black with the embers, was indeed placed in any the vehicle; which was at length effected, and drawn out by the oxcn, without a fracture. Noul This spot has been named Rock-refuge.
hands in the dark, containing Kafir-corn gruel ; that I was now on my way to the colony, and inbut the grain having been taken from the usual tended remaining a few days at the missionary deposit under the cattle-fold, was too acid to be station, he said that he should come over and pay palatable; and on putting it down to rekindle the me a visit. He had been in ill health for some fire, for the benefit of the light it might emit, the time, and was still suffering from inflammation in whole contents from the unevenness of the floor the eyes, which had altered his appearance so were instantly transferred to my mat and bedding. much, that I should scarcely have known him I should not have been so minute, but to show how again. Taking my leave, I left my interpreter to often in this country anticipations of comfort are follow, and pushed on to Bunting, nine miles be. purely imaginative.
yond, where I arrived at one, much to the surThursday, 30th.-Set out at seven-fine forest prise of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton, who received me scenery-crossed the Umzimclambu at half-past with great hospitality. Mr. Satchell, it appeared, ten-having approached it through a wood of very had left the station, and proceeded to the colony, handsome trees, chiefly umzani, and what are in company with the missionary families, from known in the colony by the name of sneeze and Morley and Clarkebery, some months previously iron-wood; many of these have grown to a great --a recommendation for their return having been height, and are very straight. Stopped at a vil received from the governor, and an escort deslage for a quarter of an hour, and procured some patehed to Clarkebery, where they had assembled very indifferent amas, for which however a bazella for the purpose. Mr. Tainton, the assistant, was (present) was asked. Having been so long ac- likewise preparing to accompauy them with his customed to the close-shorn heads of the Zoolus, family ; but on the day following the notification the oclired mobs of these women, and the nest of the despatch, Faku, with a large assembly of like perruques of the men, formed a striking con- people, visited the station, for the express purpose, trast, and at first quite attracted my notice. At as it appeared, of inducing Mr. Tainton to remain. hall-past seven stopped for an hour at another His usual salutation of offering the hand was now small village, called Amaböya, inhabited chiefly refused; and observing the wagons packed for the by Kali, from Port Natal ; the difference was journey, he significantly asked, “What are those striking here no bazella was asked, although we things I see in the wagons? Why are you going were supplied both with amas and oŭtchualla, as to leave me? Am I an enemy ?" On being saalso a few sweet potatoes; and the Numzana tisfied on these points, he cordially gave him his walked with us some distance to point out the hand, saying, “ You must not leave me-I must road.
have some person to speak for me.” Fakū then Traversing another road, we crossed the Um- appealed to the people, many of whom came fortafoofe, and soon after reached one of Mr. Fynn's ward and implored them to stay, saying, that ever villages, where I accepted a horse, kindly offered since they had been among them they had lived me by his brother, and, procuring two additional in friendship—they had never injured them, nor baggage-bearers, again set forward. Being too taken their cattle—why then should they now late to reach the ford on the Umzimboovo, we leave them at the very time when they might be stopped at a quarter to six at a village on the brought into difficulties by an army of their own road, where huts were provided and the people countrymen? A proposal was then made, that very civil. The Amaponda houses, though by no their cattle should remain in the country as a means so neat, are generally larger than those of pledge for their return. This, however, was not the Zoolus, and being daubed in the inside are satisfactory; and, finding that it was the unanimuch warmer; but their chief advantage is in the mous wish of both chiefs and people that they height of the doorway, through which it is only should not proceed, Mr. and Mrs. Tainton at necessary to stoop low, but never actually to length resolved to remain : and I cannot but recrawl.
gard it as a very providential circumstance that Our route this day was through a very broken they were endued with strength of mind and country, affording some fine views of the sea com- Christian courage to maintain their post, as nobined with forest scenery. The foliage of many thing has contributed more to the restoration of of the largest trees is of a deep glossy green, confidence among the natives, and the continuance which is beautifully relieved by the light color of of the high estimation in which the members of the stems and branches. On approaching the this missionary institution have generally been reUmzimboovo, the country becomes more popu- garded. lous; and the path, which is carried over the hills Saturday, August 1st.–From information which which margin its course, affords at every turn has recently transpired, it appears that for some some splendid views of its frequent windings time previous to the breaking out of the Kafir war, among steep and rugged mountains.
overtures had been made to Faků, by Hinza, for Friday, 31st. Commenced our journey at assistance, accompanied by a present, which was
Soon after crossed the river, and at a not accepted; and in return a bull was sent to quarter-past ten reached a hut, at present occu- Hinza, in the usual syınbolical style, well underpied by Mr. Fynn, about a mile from Fakū’s stood in those countries, implying a consciousness Great Place; where we remained a short time to of power and an independence of action. The breakfast. On reaching the Gümkūlu (Great following less enigmatical message is also said to Place) Fakū was observed sitting in the open air, have accompanied the animal :- When attacked surrounded by thirteen or fourteen cf his people. by Charka, you refused to assist me-how then At first he did not recognise me, but soon inquired can you now expect that I should assist you ?". if I were not Uufundees (teacher,) who had Fakü has evinced throughout the most friendly passed through some time before. On hearing | disposition ; and when Mr. Satchell quited the
station he sent by him an elephant's tooth, to be my situation this state of things is particularly urpresented to his excellency, in order to assure fortunate; as it is by passing through the conntry him that he only detained Mr. Tainton from a of the Amatembu, who are still said to be friendly friendly motive. There is every reason to believe to the English, that I hope to make my way to the that the continuance of the missionary, both at camp near the Kei river. I am not, however, withMorley and Clarkebury, would have been very out the hope of procuring guides to conduct me by beneficial; not merely in preventing depredations, that route. but in allaying the wounded feelings of many of the chiefs who have been falsely accused of dupli
Sunday, 2nd. city, and a secret intention to assist the Amakosa. "Follow thou me.”—(John xxi, 22.) For some time, even Fakü himself was represented as unfriendly to the English; and there is every Hear, my soul! thy Saviour say, reason to believe, that had not Mr. Tainton re. “Follow me"-my footsteps trace ; mained, and Mr. Fynn * arrived, he would have Iwill guide thee in the way, removed to the opposite of the Umzimvoobo under Support thee by my power and grace. the apprehension that he was considered as an accomplice, and should share the fate of the hostile There's not a vale with tears bedewed, Amakosa.
Nor rugged path but I have trod; It had indeed been his intention, prior to these Thy fiercest foes I have subdued, troubles, to have spread his people more in that And will support thee with my rod. direction; but this plan has for the present been suspended, lest it should be supposed that he was Lean on my strength, and be secure, thereby making room for the fugitive Amakosa, Nor trust thy erring sight; and at the same time preparing an asylum for Though other paths may sense allure, himself, in the event of any open rupture with the This one alone is right. colony.
In the month of May last, an instance occurred My ways are ways of pleasantness, which at once shows the readiness of Fakū to ob And all my paths are peace; lige the English. A party of Chũngi's people, They lead to realms of light and bliss, belonging to Hinza's tribe, had crossed the Um Where joys shall never cease. tata, and were advancing on the immediate line of his frontier. On the first rumor of their pro Regard not then thy wordly stuff, ceedings, he assembled his army; and, on the 16th, Be willing all to leave; placing himself at their head, advanced as far as In me the poorest have enough, Bunting, on his way to the frontier. Scarcely had Who on my name believe. he appeared, when despatches from his excellency, Sir Benjamin D'Urban, arrived, informing him of Lord! help me to obey thy call, the submission of Hanza's tribe; and requesting The cloud and pillar show; him to lay down his shield till further orders. Fakū Incline my heart to yield Thee all — immediately signified his intention, in these words: No other will to know. "We came out according to the Great Man's word, and by his word we will return." And in So shall my path from snares be free ; the course of a very few hours the whole body, And when on Jordan's bank I stand, amounting to about eight thousand men, dispersed, My soul shall still hold fast on Thee, and quietly returned to their homes.
And thou wilt bear me safe to land. About three weeks ago, a party of Amaponda moved in the same direction—but chiefly, as I un Conducted the Kafir services, morning and evenderstand, to chastise an old enemy, Umyăki. No- ing, at Mr. Tainton's request; the congregation tice had previously been sent to apprise Verdána, was considerably reduced, as many of the natives chief of the Amatembu, of their design, and to had accompanied Mr. Satchell
. point out the route they should take; notwith Monday, 3rd.—Mr. Tainton related a pleasing standing which, a party of the Amaponda force anecdote of Fakū, which indicates at once the missed their way, and traversed a portion of the kindness of his disposition. A man having been Amatembu country, where no intimation had been sentenced to forfeit a cow for having stolen an asreceived of their approach, and some skirmishing segai, Fakū immediately inquired whether the cow in consequence took place. Fakū's people show- gave milk, and if he had other cattle; being ined great forbearance, warning them not to ap- formed that he had only this one cow which supproach ; and telling their opponents, who even- plied his family, he gave orders that it should be tually ran away, that they had received strict returned for the support of his children until the orders not to make any holes in their shields. milk failed, when the fine was to be exacted. This circumstance, added to a clandestine attack Having succeeded in procuring guides through by some of Mr. Fynn's people, unknown to him, the Amatembu country, I purpose setting out togreatly irritated the Amatembu, insomuch that morrow; and this morning rode to the Gümkūlu all intercourse was for some time suspended. In (Great Place) in order to take my leave of Fakū.
As usual, he was stretched at full length on the * He was sent by his excellency Sir Benjamin ground, surrounded by several of his great men, D’Urban to assure the Amaponda chief of his friend- sitting or lying near him. Being informed of my ship, ani to request he would prevent the Amakosa intentions, and asked if he had any message to the from entering his territory.
Great Chief of the Abalungu (white people-liter.
ally people who do right;) he dictated the following, My watch having within these few days bewhich I wrote from his mouth :-"When the army come unserviceable, I am now obliged to calcuadvances, I wish that a messenger may be sent late in the native manner, by observing the posion to Ferdana's to inform me of their approach, in tion of the sun, and by this reckoning I consider order that I may go out and meet them with my that we reached the Umtāta about a quarter-past people. We are of one house with the Abalūngūs. six. The bed of this river is strewed with deYour children are dying with the sun—we have tached slabs of rock; and as it was nearly dusk no milk; and wish to have cattle, as we have not when we crossed, my horse, losing his footing, had any since Charka took them from us." After fell
, and ejected me up to my knees in the stream. finishing this important epistle, Fakū went to his We had now entered the Amatembu country, and hut and brought a basket of beer; of which accord- were not long in discovering, at a distance, some ing to the custom of the country, he first partook, straggling houses; but it was almost too dark to and then handed to me. By several of the party distinguish them among the bushes. At this time some ludicrous reinarks were made upon my horse, we were threading a low jungle by a winding which was standing near; and one man observed path, directed only by one lad, who had out-walk
-“ How much better it would look if it had horns ed the other guides, when suddenly we were surlike an eland!” They have no horses among rounded by several men, approaching from differthem; nor do they evince any desire to obtain them. ent directions, and all well armed with assegais. The whole disposable force which Fakū could The guide, alarmed at their appearance, ran off bring into the field is, I understand, from twelve and concealed himself behind one of the bushes; to fifteen thousand; though, on ordinary occasions, while, conscious of the danger, I immediately he seldom orders out more than seven or eight reined up, in order to answer their inquiries as to thousand.
who we were—where we came from where we Fakū is at all times a man of few words ; but | were going—where Tpai was—what Faků was when speaking to-day on the subject of income about—and many other similar questions. Being (cattle,) at all times the most interesting to a na- somewhat satisfied with my replies, they acknowtive, he became quite animated. On my return to ledged that they had taken us for spies. On beBunting, I found that the cart had arrived, having ing told that I was a teacher, one of them obhad another upset on the day we left it. My ser- served that I should tell the people to be still, and vant, Umpondombeeni, was all admiration at the not to be always making war. We were then novelties of this station. He was greatly amused allowed to proceed without further detention ; but at the pigs, having only once seen one before ; but there is not the slightest doubt that they would the glass in the window-sashes excited his great- have commenced throwing their assegais had not est surprise, and it was some time before he could I pulled up at the moment they accosted us. We convince himself that there was any thing to pre- soon reached the spot where a chief named Cosivent his hand from passing through.
ana formerly lived; but being too dark to search Tuesday, 4th.–Took leave of Mr. and Mrs. for his new abode on the other side of the mounTainton, who kindly supplied me with provisions tain, and, moreover, hearing that he was absent, for the way. Started at about ten, with three we returned to a Fingo hut, which we had passed inen from the station carrying my baggage—my near the road—a wretched, dirty hovel, but where interpreter and myself being mounted upon two we were hospitably received. It was here we miserable, sore-backed horses, which had been first heard the fate of the two men who had been purchased by Mr. Fynn for government use. We sent from Bunting with letters for the camp, about were soon out of the inhabited part of Fakū’s a month ago. By an account brought through a territory ; but it is still as mountainous, and at Fingo, they are said to have been murdered by a this season was completely dried up, with scarcely party of Changi's people on their way, and not a trce to be seen for miles. In the neighborhood far from the ford on the Kei river. of Umtagaichi and Umdoombi rivers, which Wednesday, 5th.-Wishing to travel light, in crossed our route, we passed the sites of several order to reach Ferdana’s Great Place in good villages formerly belonging to Umyăki—he was time this evening, I left the greater part of the driven hence by Fakū about eighteen months ago, baggage in charge of the guides, directing them since which périod he has been living with his to proceed with it to a chief named Kăbi, about whole tribe much nearer to the coast. The cause half the distance, and remain there until they of his expulsion was in revenge for an attempt to heard from me. bewitch, as it is termed, the cattle of Faku. We proceeded about half-past seven, the road Umyški had despatched two men to Fakū, for the passing over elevated downs; the country less alleged purpose of procuring beads, but they were broken ; in many parts rocky, and generally desat the same time accompanied by an Egeerha, or titute of trees. Stopped about eleven, and probewitcher, who brought away some of the manure cured a little amas, but not until all their quesfrom the cattle-fold at the Great Place, with an tions had been satisfied. So suspicious are these intention on his reaching home to procure by this people, probably from habit
, being continually emmeans the infliction of some fatal disease upon the broiled with their neighbors, that in no instance cattle of Fakü. From the chief downward, it is could we obtain the commonest information requite distressing to observe how all succumb to specting the road, until the usual string of ques. this subtle artifice of the powers of darkness, tions had been duly put and replied to. The wowhich has not only reduced the whole nation to a men evinced so much alarm at our appearance, species of mental bondage, but has probably occa- that, on perceiving us at a distance, they would sioned more blood to flow than any of the nu- hasten along in another direction ; and 'if, as it merous feuds that have been known to exist. sometimes happened, we surprised them, while
procuring water from the streams, they would in- dogs ! Although messengers have been sent to stantly leave their calabashes and bowls, and make apprise Ferdana of my arrival, it is quite uncerhastily off: Passed through several very large tain where he may be found ; and as I have no flights of locusts, which appeared to be commit- great inclination to renew my acquaintance with ting great ravages among the little grass that re- the calves, I considered it desirable, if possible, mained. Crossed the Bashee, another very rocky to find an asylum in some of the missionary buildriver, at about four; and in half an hour more ings at Clarkebury, about two miles and a half reached Ferdana's village-a collection of miser- distant. The horses were accordingly saddled, able looking huts (twelve in number,) dotted about and we soon reached the mission-house, which without any appearance of regularity. Neither had been abandoned about three months. It had, these, nor the Amaponda towns, have any exterior indeed, a most desolate appearance: with the exfences; the cattle-folds are small
, and not always ception of one girl, who had formerly attended on in the centre ; and the houses, both within and Mrs. Davis, all the natives belonging to the stawithout, are sadly defective in point of cleanliness. tion had left with the missionary family. A few They have, however, the advantage of an interior of the neighboring huts, however, were occupied skreen about the door-way; which prevents the by some people sent by Ferdana to take charge wind from driving the smoke about, and contri- of the property. This trust they had faithfully butes to make them warm, though at the expense performed: thorn-bushes were placed under all of light. Here, again, we were suspected. "Fer- the windows to prevent their being opened, and dana, I was told, was on a hunting expedition, in we found every thing perfectly secure. Circumwhich he had taken all his horses for the pursuit stanced as I was, there was no alternative but to of elands. The sun had long set behind the hills draw the nail which secured a window from withbefore the usual catechising had ended; and, out, and enter by that means; no person having seated upon my saddle in front of Ferdana's hut, been entrusted with any of the keys, which I I patiently awaited its termination. Not a house conclude were taken away. Here, to my great was offered, nor food of any kind given. At first relief, two sacks of Kafir corn were found; several they proposed that I should go on to the mission- utensils for cooking; and a few chickens. Had ary station, not far distant; and afterwards to it been otherwise we should have fared but poorly, another village. Suspecting that they were (as milk was not to be procured among the natives ; is not unfrequently the case with the people) de- and their corn, from having been kept underceiving me as to the movements of their chief, I ground, had now acquired so unpleasant a flavor, told them that I had come to see Ferdana; and that the cravings of hunger alone would have inthat as this was his place, it was not my intention duced me to eat it: no other could be procured to go further; adding, that hitherto I had always from them at this season of the year, even had understood they were hospitable to strangers. I the means of purchasing, which was not the After waiting some little time longer, a woman of case. the party observed, that the Incosi-case ought to It was exceedingly painful to me to be thus be spoken to about furnishing a hut. In our situ- under the necessity of breaking open the missionation a hint of this kind was not to be lost: my house ; but I felt convinced that, had its inmates interpreter accordingly went on this errand; and been here, they would gladly have afforded me we were shortly after received into a hut belong- every comfort in their power. My principal reing to the widow of the late chief Gubinū, or gret' is to find it untenanted; and the work of Vosani, as he is frequently called. Baadi (the Christian instruction suspended. Our neighbors Incosi-case) was his mother; and it is her grand- are by no means ceremonious : while quietly son, still a minor under the guardianship of Fer- writing this morning, a man introduced himself at dana, who will eventually succeed to the govern- the window,—which, by the by, was the only en
The hut in which we were now lodged trance at that time,—with an assegai in his hand. was sufficiently capacious, but filthy in the ex- Until the return of my interpreter, I thought it treme; and by the occasional flickering of the better to take no notice of him; when he introfire, when the sinoke had sufficiently dispersed, I duced himself as chief of the party placed in charge perceived the good woman who had long been of the mission premises. He had come, he said, preparing a mess of tripe, first stirring it about to hear the news, having been absent when I arwith her hand, and then portioning it out in the rived; and was only just returned from a nightly sarne unceremonious manner to the company, in- excursion, in order if possible to trace the foot. cluding a tribe of hungry children, with two or prints of enemies up the river. Tpai's people on three men who dropped in at this critical time, one side, and the Amamás (a revolted tribe of and employed their assegais to divide the toughest Amatembu) on the other, who are perpetually parts. Notwithstanding my various companions, stealing their cattle, keep them in a constant state I was sufficiently tired to sleep comfortably upon of alarm; insomuch that all the herds are witha floor, which, for the peculiar unevenness of its drawn to a considerable distance from the fronsurface, might have served for a model of the ma- tier; and the miserable inhabitants of those dis. ritime Alps.
tricts are never secure for a day. On the decline Thursday, 6th.—So dim was the fire, and so of the moon (now full,) it is said that Tpai medidense the smoke, that it was not until day-light tates another attack, which keeps them on the had thoroughly penetrated the crevices of our alert. That Ferdana should absent himself, under abode, that I was fully aware of the different or- such circumstances, appears to me incomprehenders of mammalia that it contained. Besides our sible, unless his hunting excursion should prove selves, the two women and five children, there but another name for a marauding expedition, were no less than nine calves, and one or two i which is far more probable, particularly as he was