which I had only tasted once, being now consumed. But this evening we were most unexpectedly provided with an excellent supper. My servant, Umpondombeeni, who was in advance on the beach, had observed a large bird (I conclude an albatros) rising from the surf with a fish in his bill, which he soon dropped on the sand, and commenced eating; on his approach, it made an effort to convey it away; rose with it, but soon dropped it again, and flew off. I need not say that it was soon conveyed to our bush; and, being about the size of a salmon, and of good flavor, furnished us with a sumptuous meal. Cleared up about midnight. Tuesday, 28th.-Started soon after seven, and crossed the Amäne-neama (black-water,) which was still running out, and in one part nearly out of the oxen's depth. The descent to the Umtendo, which we reached at a quarter-past eleven, is considered as the most difficult part of the road from the colony to Port Natal; not from the actual declivity, but from the number of large irregular rocks, which literally strew the bank. The whole scenery in this neighborhood has a rugged appearance, and abounds with picturesque features, to which the winding of the river greatly contributes. Some of the cliffs are luxuriantly clothed-while others, rising abruptly in barren piles and exhibiting a reddish tint, form a striking contrast. My contemplations of this scene were soon disturbed by a dilemma, which might have occasioned considerable difficulty. The unfortunate cart which had been gradually jolting its way down from rock to rock, was suddenly caught by a projecting angle, and twice completely reversed as it rolled down the bank. The boxes were disengaged by the violence of the fall; which happily was checked by the stem of a tree, or the whole would probably have been broken to pieces and precipitated into the river. Happily, nothing of any material consequence was injured; and in the course of an hour every thing was again in its place, and we were outspanned near a stream of good water on the opposite side. Although the advantage over a wagon is greatly in our favor as regards speed, the weights were necessarily placed too high in our present vehicle for stability; so that the probabilities of an overturn, especially when dragging one of the wheels, as in the present instance, is considerably increased. The oxen having strayed, we were unable to procced before half-past three; when, coming soon after to a rocky stream, I resumed my seat, hoping to have passed dryshod-in this, however, I was disappointed. The ledge in one part is very narrow-the water middle-deep on both sides; just as we came to the most critical spot the oxen bore too much to the left, and again overset the cart into the water, giving me a cold bath-for which I was by no means prepared, the day being far from warm. I was alone on the cart, and most providentially escaped without even a bruise; although it was completely reversed, and fell close to me. Not only was I thoroughly soaked, but every article in my box was dripping wet, not a dry thread had any of us to put on. It was now the employment of all hands to right the vehicle; which was at length effected, and drawn out by the oxen, without a fracture. No thing remained but to make the best of our misfortune; a most inviting glen was near-and thi ther in less than half an hour fires were blazing, and many of the wet things spread around them to dry. The situation of our rock-habitation was one of no common character a secluded glen, tufted with trees and overhung by a rocky precipice, with a pretty cascade falling from an opposite cliff. The stream which occupies this ravine falls again in its passage to the sea over a ledge of rocks, just below the spot where the accident occurred. Wet as I was, I could not resist drying some paper, and making a hasty sketch of our bivouac before the sun became too low. Wednesday, 29th.-As the wagon-road from the Umsicaba strikes more inland, leading to no inhabitants until within a few miles of the Umzimvoobo, I took my leave of it this morning; and, with my interpreter and two of the people, resolved to follow the footpath nearer the sea, which passes through a village, at about a day's journey from hence. At a quarter-past eight we commenced our walk, and soon after ten crossed the bar of the Umsicaba, which was running out by a very narrow channel. Although navigation is impeded by the banks which form across the mouths of by far the greater number of rivers which discharge themselves upon this coast, it appears to be wisely ordained for the purpose of irrigating the interior; or, otherwise, during the winter or dry season, many of them would become mere brooks, while others would entirely cease to flow. Occasions have occurred when they have been let out by cutting a channel through the bar-somtimes to obtain a wagon passage higher up; and in one or two instances in order to shoot the hippopotami in the bed: on these occasions the stream has been rapidly drained, and in a few hours become very shallow. The country through which we were now passing is very open and rocky. Rested for half an hour on the bank of a rocky stream, and shared with the people half a loaf of eziuqua-the only remaining provisions we had with us. As we approached the village the appearance of the country was greatly improved abrupt hills appeared before us, clothed to their summit with large trees, while many beautiful ravines opened to our right. Skirting one of these roads we reached Umnooka's, a village almost surrounded with trees, at twenty minutes past five-having walked about twenty-six miles. The people are poor, aud the huts miserable (only six in number;) still it was the abode of manand circumstanced as we were a cheering sight. On entering my hut, I was rather discomposed at discovering in one corner a flourishing colony of young puppies; but not thinking it quite civil unceremoniously to eject them, I inquired of Umnooka whether they were to remain there all night; his reply, "they were born there," was still more unsatisfactory, and pleaded so strongly in their behalf, that I thought I could not do less than tolerate my troublesome companions. Some boiled sweet potatoes was all I could procure that was eatable-every other attempt to satisfy my hunger only increased my discomfort. A bowl, black with the embers, was indeed placed in my This spot has been named Rock-refuge. hands in the dark, containing Kafir-corn gruel; but the grain having been taken from the usual deposit under the cattle-fold, was too acid to be palatable; and on putting it down to rekindle the fire, for the benefit of the light it might emit, the whole contents from the unevenness of the floor were instantly transferred to my mat and bedding. I should not have been so minute, but to show how often in this country anticipations of comfort are purely imaginative. Thursday, 30th.-Set out at seven-fine forest scenery-crossed the Umzimclambu at half-past ten-having approached it through a wood of very handsome trees, chiefly umzani, and what are known in the colony by the name of sneeze and iron-wood; many of these have grown to a great height, and are very straight. Stopped at a village for a quarter of an hour, and procured some very indifferent amas, for which however a bazella (present) was asked. Having been so long accustomed to the close-shorn heads of the Zoolus, the ochred mobs of these women, and the nestlike perruques of the men, formed a striking contrast, and at first quite attracted my notice. At half-past seven stopped for an hour at another small village, called Amaboya, inhabited chiefly by Kali, from Port Natal; the difference was striking-here no bazella was asked, although we were supplied both with amas and oŭtchualla, as also a few sweet potatoes; and the Numzana walked with us some distance to point out the road. Traversing another road, we crossed the Umtafoofe, and soon after reached one of Mr. Fynn's villages, where I accepted a horse, kindly offered me by his brother, and, procuring two additional baggage-bearers, again set forward. Being too late to reach the ford on the Umzimboovo, we stopped at a quarter to six at a village on the road, where huts were provided and the people very civil. The Amaponda houses, though by no means so neat, are generally larger than those of the Zoolus, and being daubed in the inside are much warmer; but their chief advantage is in the height of the doorway, through which it is only necessary to stoop low, but never actually to crawl. that I was now on my way to the colony, and intended remaining a few days at the missionary station, he said that he should come over and pay me a visit. He had been in ill health for some time, and was still suffering from inflammation in the eyes, which had altered his appearance so much, that I should scarcely have known him again. Taking my leave, I left my interpreter to follow, and pushed on to Bunting, nine miles beyond, where I arrived at one, much to the surprise of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton, who received me with great hospitality. Mr. Satchell, it appeared, had left the station, and proceeded to the colony, in company with the missionary families, from Morley and Clarkebery, some months previously -a recommendation for their return having been received from the governor, and an escort despatched to Clarkebery, where they had assembled for the purpose. Mr. Tainton, the assistant, was likewise preparing to accompauy them with his family; but on the day following the notification of the despatch, Faku, with a large assembly of people, visited the station, for the express purpose, as it appeared, of inducing Mr. Tainton to remain. His usual salutation of offering the hand was now refused; and observing the wagons packed for the journey, he significantly asked, "What are those things I see in the wagons? Why are you going to leave me? Am I an enemy?" On being satisfied on these points, he cordially gave him his hand, saying, "You must not leave me I must have some person to speak for me." Faku then appealed to the people, many of whom came forward and implored them to stay, saying, that ever since they had been among them they had lived in friendship-they had never injured them, nor taken their cattle-why then should they now leave them at the very time when they might be brought into difficulties by an army of their own countrymen? A proposal was then made, that their cattle should remain in the country as a pledge for their return. This, however, was not satisfactory; and, finding that it was the unanimous wish of both chiefs and people that they should not proceed, Mr. and Mrs. Tainton at length resolved to remain: and I cannot but regard it as a very providential circumstance that they were endued with strength of mind and Christian courage to maintain their post, as nothing has contributed more to the restoration of confidence among the natives, and the continuance of the high estimation in which the members of this missionary institution have generally been re Our route this day was through a very broken country, affording some fine views of the sea combined with forest scenery. The foliage of many of the largest trees is of a deep glossy green, which is beautifully relieved by the light color of the stems and branches. On approaching the Umzimboovo, the country becomes more popu-garded. lous; and the path, which is carried over the hills which margin its course, affords at every turn some splendid views of its frequent windings among steep and rugged mountains. Friday, 31st. Commenced our journey at seven. Soon after crossed the river, and at a quarter-past ten reached a hut, at present occupied by Mr. Fynn, about a mile from Faku's Great Place; where we remained a short time to breakfast. On reaching the Gümkülu (Great Place,) Fakû was observed sitting in the open air, surrounded by thirteen or fourteen cf his people. At first he did not recognise me, but soon inquired if I were not Uufundees (teacher,) who had passed through some time before. On hearing Saturday, August 1st.-From information which has recently transpired, it appears that for some time previous to the breaking out of the Kafir war, overtures had been made to Faku, by Hinza, for assistance, accompanied by a present, which was not accepted; and in return a bull was sent to Hinza, in the usual symbolical style, well understood in those countries, implying a consciousness of power and an independence of action. The following less enigmatical message is also said to have accompanied the animal :-"When attacked by Charka, you refused to assist me how then can you now expect that I should assist you?" Faku has evinced throughout the most friendly disposition; and when Mr. Satchell quited the station he sent by him an elephant's tooth, to be presented to his excellency, in order to assure him that he only detained Mr. Tainton from a friendly motive. There is every reason to believe that the continuance of the missionary, both at Morley and Clarkebury, would have been very beneficial; not merely in preventing depredations, but in allaying the wounded feelings of many of the chiefs who have been falsely accused of duplicity, and a secret intention to assist the Amakosa. For some time, even Fakü himself was represented as unfriendly to the English; and there is every reason to believe, that had not Mr. Tainton remained, and Mr. Fynn* arrived, he would have removed to the opposite of the Umzimvoobo under the apprehension that he was considered as an accomplice, and should share the fate of the hostile Amakosa. It had indeed been his intention, prior to these troubles, to have spread his people more in that direction; but this plan has for the present been suspended, lest it should be supposed that he was thereby making room for the fugitive Amakosa, and at the same time preparing an asylum for himself, in the event of any open rupture with the colony. In the month of May last, an instance occurred which at once shows the readiness of Faku to oblige the English. A party of Chungi's people, belonging to Hinza's tribe, had crossed the Umtata, and were advancing on the immediate line of his frontier. On the first rumor of their proceedings, he assembled his army; and, on the 16th, placing himself at their head, advanced as far as Bunting, on his way to the frontier. Scarcely had he appeared, when despatches from his excellency, Sir Benjamin D'Urban, arrived, informing him of the submission of Hanza's tribe; and requesting him to lay down his shield till further orders. Faku immediately signified his intention, in these words: "We came out according to the Great Man's word, and by his word we will return." And in the course of a very few hours the whole body, amounting to about eight thousand men, dispersed, and quietly returned to their homes. my situation this state of things is particularly unfortunate; as it is by passing through the conntry of the Amatembu, who are still said to be friendly to the English, that I hope to make my way to the camp near the Kei river. I am not, however, without the hope of procuring guides to conduct me by that route. Sunday, 2nd. "Follow thou me."-(John xxi. 22.) Hear, my soul! thy Saviour say, Support thee by my power and grace. There's not a vale with tears bedewed, Lean on my strength, and be secure, My ways are ways of pleasantness, Regard not then thy wordly stuff,— Lord! help me to obey thy call, The cloud and pillar show; So shall my path from snares be free; And when on Jordan's bank I stand, Conducted the Kafir services, morning and even was considerably reduced, as many of the natives had accompanied Mr. Satchell. About three weeks ago, a party of Amaponda moved in the same direction-but chiefly, as I understand, to chastise an old enemy, Umyaki. No-ing, at Mr. Tainton's request; the congregation tice had previously been sent to apprise Verdana, chief of the Amatembu, of their design, and to point out the route they should take; notwithstanding which, a party of the Amaponda force missed their way, and traversed a portion of the Amatembu country, where no intimation had been received of their approach, and some skirmishing in consequence took place. Faku's people showed great forbearance, warning them not to approach; and telling their opponents, who eventually ran away, that they had received strict orders not to make any holes in their shields. This circumstance, added to a clandestine attack by some of Mr. Fynn's people, unknown to him, greatly irritated the Amatembu, insomuch that all intercourse was for some time suspended. In He was sent by his excellency Sir Benjamin D'Urban to assure the Amaponda chief of his friendship, and to request he would prevent the Amakosa from entering his territory. Monday, 3rd.-Mr. Tainton related a pleasing anecdote of Faku, which indicates at once the kindness of his disposition. A man having been sentenced to forfeit a cow for having stolen an assegai, Faku immediately inquired whether the cow gave milk, and if he had other cattle; being informed that he had only this one cow which supplied his family, he gave orders that it should be returned for the support of his children until the milk failed, when the fine was to be exacted. Having succeeded in procuring guides through the Amatembu country, I purpose setting out tomorrow; and this morning rode to the Gümkülu (Great Place) in order to take my leave of Fakū. As usual, he was stretched at full length on the ground, surrounded by several of his great men, sitting or lying near him. Being informed of my intentions, and asked if he had any message to the Great Chief of the Abalungu (white people-liter ally people who do right;) he dictated the following, which I wrote from his mouth :-"When the army advances, I wish that a messenger may be sent on to Ferdana's to inform me of their approach, in order that I may go out and meet them with my people. We are of one house with the Abalungus. Your children are dying with the sun-we have no milk; and wish to have cattle, as we have not had any since Charka took them from us." After finishing this important epistle, Faku went to his hut and brought a basket of beer; of which according to the custom of the country, he first partook, and then handed to me. By several of the party some ludicrous reinarks were made upon my horse, which was standing near; and one man observed "How much better it would look if it had horns like an eland!" They have no horses among them; nor do they evince any desire to obtain them. The whole disposable force which Faku could bring into the field is, I understand, from twelve to fifteen thousand; though, on ordinary occasions, he seldom orders out more than seven or eight thousand. Faku is at all times a man of few words; but when speaking to-day on the subject of income (cattle,) at all times the most interesting to a native, he became quite animated. On my return to Bunting, I found that the cart had arrived, having had another upset on the day we left it. My servant, Umpondombeeni, was all admiration at the novelties of this station. He was greatly amused at the pigs, having only once seen one before; but the glass in the window-sashes excited his greatest surprise, and it was some time before he could convince himself that there was any thing to prevent his hand from passing through. Tuesday, 4th.—Took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton, who kindly supplied me with provisions for the way. Started at about ten, with three inen from the station carrying my baggage-my interpreter and myself being mounted upon two miserable, sore-backed horses, which had been purchased by Mr. Fynn for government use. We were soon out of the inhabited part of Faku's territory; but it is still as mountainous, and at this season was completely dried up, with scarcely a tree to be seen for miles. In the neighborhood of Umtagaichi and Umdoombi rivers, which crossed our route, we passed the sites of several villages formerly belonging to Umyǎki-he was driven hence by Faku about eighteen months ago, since which period he has been living with his whole tribe much nearer to the coast. The cause of his expulsion was in revenge for an attempt to bewitch, as it is termed, the cattle of Faku. Umyǎki had despatched two men to Faku, for the alleged purpose of procuring beads, but they were at the same time accompanied by an Egeerha, or bewitcher, who brought away some of the manure from the cattle-fold at the Great Place, with an intention on his reaching home to procure by this means the infliction of some fatal disease upon the cattle of Faku. From the chief downward, it is quite distressing to observe how all succumb to this subtle artifice of the powers of darkness, which has not only reduced the whole nation to a species of mental bondage, but has probably occasioned more blood to flow than any of the numerous feuds that have been known to exist. My watch having within these few days become unserviceable, I am now obliged to calculate in the native manner, by observing the position of the sun, and by this reckoning I consider that we reached the Umtata about a quarter-past six. The bed of this river is strewed with detached slabs of rock; and as it was nearly dusk when we crossed, my horse, losing his footing, fell, and ejected me up to my knees in the stream. We had now entered the Amatembu country, and were not long in discovering, at a distance, some straggling houses; but it was almost too dark to distinguish them among the bushes. At this time we were threading a low jungle by a winding path, directed only by one lad, who had out-walked the other guides, when suddenly we were surrounded by several men, approaching from different directions, and all well armed with assegais. The guide, alarmed at their appearance, ran off and concealed himself behind one of the bushes; while, conscious of the danger, I immediately reined up, in order to answer their inquiries as to who we were-where we came from-where we were going-where Tpai was-what Faku was about-and many other similar questions. Being somewhat satisfied with my replies, they acknowledged that they had taken us for spies. On being told that I was a teacher, one of them observed that I should tell the people to be still, and not to be always making war. We were then allowed to proceed without further detention; but there is not the slightest doubt that they would have commenced throwing their assegais had not I pulled up at the moment they accosted us. We soon reached the spot where a chief named Cosiana formerly lived; but being too dark to search for his new abode on the other side of the mountain, and, moreover, hearing that he was absent, we returned to a Fingo hut, which we had passed near the road-a wretched, dirty hovel, but where we were hospitably received. It was here we first heard the fate of the two men who had been sent from Bunting with letters for the camp, about a month ago. By an account brought through a Fingo, they are said to have been murdered by a party of Chungi's people on their way, and not far from the ford on the Kei river. Wednesday, 5th.-Wishing to travel light, in order to reach Ferdana's Great Place in good time this evening, I left the greater part of the baggage in charge of the guides, directing them to proceed with it to a chief named Kăbi, about half the distance, and remain there until they heard from me. We proceeded about half-past seven, the road passing over elevated downs; the country less broken; in many parts rocky, and generally destitute of trees. Stopped about eleven, and procured a little amas, but not until all their questions had been satisfied. So suspicious are these people, probably from habit, being continually embroiled with their neighbors, that in no instance could we obtain the commonest information respecting the road, until the usual string of questions had been duly put and replied to. The women evinced so much alarm at our appearance, that, on perceiving us at a distance, they would hasten along in another direction; and if, as it sometimes happened, we surprised them, while dogs! Although messengers have been sent to apprise Ferdana of my arrival, it is quite uncertain where he may be found; and as I have no great inclination to renew my acquaintance with the calves, I considered it desirable, if possible, to find an asylum in some of the missionary buildings at Clarkebury, about two miles and a half The horses were accordingly saddled, and we soon reached the mission-house, which had been abandoned about three months. It had, indeed, a most desolate appearance: with the exception of one girl, who had formerly attended on Mrs. Davis, all the natives belonging to the station had left with the missionary family. A few of the neighboring huts, however, were occupied by some people sent by Ferdana to take charge of the property. This trust they had faithfully performed: thorn-bushes were placed under all the windows to prevent their being opened, and we found every thing perfectly secure. Circumstanced as I was, there was no alternative but to draw the nail which secured a window from without, and enter by that means; no person having been entrusted with any of the keys, which I conclude were taken away. Here, to my great relief, two sacks of Kafir corn were found; several utensils for cooking; and a few chickens. Had it been otherwise we should have fared but poorly, milk was not to be procured among the natives; and their corn, from having been kept underground, had now acquired so unpleasant a flavor, that the cravings of hunger alone would have induced me to eat it: no other could be procured from them at this season of the year, even had I the means of purchasing, which was not the case. procuring water from the streams, they would instantly leave their calabashes and bowls, and make hastily off. Passed through several very large flights of locusts, which appeared to be committing great ravages among the little grass that remained. Crossed the Bashee, another very rocky river, at about four; and in half an hour more reached Ferdana's village-a collection of miser-distant. able looking huts (twelve in number,) dotted about without any appearance of regularity. Neither these, nor the Amaponda towns, have any exterior fences; the cattle-folds are small, and not always in the centre; and the houses, both within and without, are sadly defective in point of cleanliness. They have, however, the advantage of an interior skreen about the door-way; which prevents the wind from driving the smoke about, and contributes to make them warm, though at the expense of light. Here, again, we were suspected. Ferdana, I was told, was on a hunting expedition, in which he had taken all his horses for the pursuit of elands. The sun had long set behind the hills before the usual catechising had ended; and, seated upon my saddle in front of Ferdana's hut, I patiently awaited its termination. Not a house was offered, nor food of any kind given. At first they proposed that I should go on to the missionary station, not far distant; and afterwards to another village. Suspecting that they were (as is not unfrequently the case with the people) deceiving me as to the movements of their chief, I told them that I had come to see Ferdana; and that as this was his place, it was not my intention to go further; adding, that hitherto I had always understood they were hospitable to strangers. After waiting some little time longer, a woman of the party observed, that the Incosi-case ought to It was exceedingly painful to me to be thus be spoken to about furnishing a hut. In our situ- under the necessity of breaking open the missionation a hint of this kind was not to be lost: my house; but I felt convinced that, had its inmates interpreter accordingly went on this errand; and been here, they would gladly have afforded me we were shortly after received into a hut belong-every comfort in their power. My principal reing to the widow of the late chief Gubinu, or gret is to find it untenanted; and the work of Vosani, as he is frequently called. Baadi (the Christian instruction suspended. Our neighbors Incosi-case) was his mother; and it is her grand- are by no means ceremonious: while quietly son, still a minor under the guardianship of Fer-writing this morning, a man introduced himself at dana, who will eventually succeed to the government. The hut in which we were now lodged was sufficiently capacious, but filthy in the extreme; and by the occasional flickering of the fire, when the sinoke had sufficiently dispersed, I perceived the good woman who had long been preparing a mess of tripe, first stirring it about with her hand, and then portioning it out in the same unceremonious manner to the company, including a tribe of hungry children, with two or three men who dropped in at this critical time, and employed their assegais to divide the toughest parts. Notwithstanding my various companions, I was sufficiently tired to sleep comfortably upon a floor, which, for the peculiar unevenness of its surface, might have served for a model of the maritime Alps. the window,-which, by the by, was the only entrance at that time, with an assegai in his hand. Until the return of my interpreter, I thought it better to take no notice of him; when he introduced himself as chief of the party placed in charge of the mission premises. He had come, he said, to hear the news, having been absent when I arrived; and was only just returned from a nightly excursion, in order if possible to trace the footprints of enemies up the river. Tpai's people on one side, and the Amamăs (a revolted tribe of Amatembu) on the other, who are perpetually stealing their cattle, keep them in a constant state of alarm; insomuch that all the herds are withdrawn to a considerable distance from the frontier; and the miserable inhabitants of those districts are never secure for a day. On the decline Thursday, 6th.-So dim was the fire, and so of the moon (now full,) it is said that Tpai medidense the smoke, that it was not until day-light tates another attack, which keeps them on the had thoroughly penetrated the crevices of our alert. That Ferdana should absent himself, under abode, that I was fully aware of the different or- such circumstances, appears to me incomprehenders of mammalia that it contained. Besides our-sible, unless his hunting excursion should prove selves, the two women and five children, there but another name for a marauding expedition, were no less than nine calves, and one or two which is far more probable, particularly as he was |