Saturday, 23rd.-Set out a little before seven; stopped to breakfast at eleven; and proceeded again at twenty minutes past twelve. In endeavoring to cross a gully, where the ground was swampy, the wagon stuck fast, one of the hind wheels sinking in the mud. Two ineffectual attempts having been made to drag it out, I dismounted; and, throwing my bags across my horse's back, proceeded on foot with the prisoners, &c. It was at a quarter to five that we left the wagon, and, after walking about fifteen miles, we reached Mr. Plankenberg's hut (a trading station recently established on the Tugăla) at nine. This morning it was my intention to have started much earlier, in order to have reached the White Shields (Clomanthleen) by sunset; but unfortunately the people belonging to the wagon overslept themselves. May the rays of Gospel light, Redd'ning now the eastern sky, May the word in weakness spoken Bring conviction to each breast; To us this grace was freely given- If our hearts indeed have tasted, Heralds of redeeming grace, To every clime His love we'll bear; To tribes unknown His name declare! Till earth shall echo back the sound In one united song of praise; Hark, again!-celestial strains!- 66 Jesus our Redeemer reigns? Sunday, 24th.-Being desirous to commence the Zoolu mission by public worship on this day, I crossed the river soon after eight, and reached the Clomanthleen Inthlopi (White Clomanthleen) at eleven. We travelled slowly on account of the prisoners, the distance being not more than nine miles. The principal part of the regiment were absent, notwithstanding which the Incosacase (Momahau,) and about thirty-five people, including the prisoners, assembled in front of Nongalaza's hut, when I addressed them for about an hour on the leading truths of the Gospel, concluding with prayer. All were very attentive, and said at the conclusion, that they understood the words that had been spoken. That it was literally the words which they meant may be well imagined, and certainly inferred, from the inquiry which was immediately afterwards made by the principal man present, whether God's house, (alluding to his habitation in heaven) was as handsome as their Issigōrdlo. May it please the God Monday, 25th.-On reaching the Tugăla, the of all grace, who has so mercifully opened a way prisoners, according to agreement, were consignfor the good news of salvation by Jesus Christ to ed to the charge of Mambayendi; but so apprebe proclaimed in this land, to give abundant in-hensive were they of the severity of their own crease to his own word, that it may accomplish countrymen, that yesterday morning they actuthat which he pleaseth, and prosper in the thing whereunto he has sent it; and may I, and all who may hereafter labor in this vineyard, regard ourselves but as worthless instruments in his hands, and look ever and solely to Him for that heavenly strength and grace which he has promised, and without which all our labor will be in vain! "Not unto us, O Lord! not unto us, but unto thy name be the glory for ever and ever. Amen." Let the voice of joy arise, "Every knee to him shall bow, Every crown before him fall; Not one tittle e'er shall fail Of every promise He has made; The prayer of faith shall still prevail, Though sense may deem it long delayed. His travail o'er-His victory won!" ally refused to proceed until I assured them that it was my intention to accompany them, and that I should not lose sight of them until they reached Congella, and were delivered over to the Indoonas. Last night a messenger arrived from Umgunanani, where Dingarn was then staying. He had been ordered to proceed to Port Natal to inquire respecting the deserter, but on hearing at the Black Clomanthleen, that I was here, he had come on. The Incosa-case (Nomahau) is very friendly, doing all she can to make me comfortable; but I have been much disappointed at the present deserted state of the town-many of the people are with the king, but the greater part at their out-places. The wagon with my baggage arrived this afternoon; they had extricated themselves from the dilemma in which we had left them soon after our departure. Tuesday, 26th.-Left some of my baggage in charge of Nomahau, and soon after nine set out, accompanied by Mambayendi and three additional baggage-bearers. The footpath from this place to Congella passes through a more populous district than the wagon route, and the country is more level, and clothed with trees. This part of the country abounds with wild guinea-fowl, several coveys of which were seen; as also bucks, and a few Kafir crane, a beautiful bird, with a grey plumage and a handsome top-knot; the black feathers which cover the head and throat are of a glossy jet black, and to the touch as soft as the richest velvet. The wings are in general use among the Amakosa to decorate their heads when going to war. On our way we met the messengers returning, who had been sent forward by Nomahau to announce my approach to the king. They said that he had expressed himself as much pleased, when informed that the deserters had been secured, but could not yet believe that it was true, nor should he, until he had seen them. He had yesterday left Ungunanani on his return to Congella. We reached the Injanduna at noon, and remained to rest and breakfast two hours and a half. Had not this place lain directly in the route, I would gladly have avoided it, in order to spare the feelings of Nonha. This morning she had been the gazing-stock of all the villagers by the way, who had run out to see the prisoners as they passed-but here a more formal ordeal awaited her. Before any provisions could be procured for them, Ugocha (the Incosa-case) came down to the gate near which she was sitting with the other prisoners, and, surrounded by all the people of the place, scolded them both roundly. This, under other circumstances, would have been all highly proper; but as it was agreed by all that they would be put to death on their reaching Congella, I could not but feel great pity for her situation. So much agitated was her mind with the apprehension of the cruel death which awaited her, (they are always impaled, after being struck on the head with knobbed sticks,) that she told me on Sunday evening, while instructing the prisoners, that before she crossed the Tugăla she could attend, but that now her mind was in too disturbed a state. Wednesday, 27th.-Set out at eight-soon after began to ascend. Stopped to breakfast at Indumani, one of the king's villages. At the Injanduna none of the prisoners, excepting Mankanjana, would taste the amăss (curdled milk) that was offered them, alleging that as they were in disgrace, it was not proper for them to partake of it among their friends: the two women here again declined it, but Umboobo was less scrupulous, and drank free from the calabash that was set before them. Rested here two hours, and proceeded again at a quarter to twelve. Passed Inglalǎni, and rested three-quarters of an hour at Sablongăzi, another small village, situated on the crest of a steep mountain. Some of the ascents and descents were so steep, that I frequently found it necessary to dismount. There are few trees in these mountains, but they are all well clothed with grass, and the parts that are cultivated near the villages produce excellent Indian corn and Kafir corn. We now struck into the path we had formerly travelled, our present route having been more inland, and at half-past four we reached Congella, where crowds of people were peeping over the fence and filling the gateway, in order to catch a glimpse of the prisoners as they passed. Scarcely had we entered the town, when I received a message from the king, desiring to see me; and the prisoners now consigned to the charge of the Indoonas, were taken into his presence at the same time; being directed to place themselves at a respectable distance, while he appeared from within his fence overlooking the whole party. He appeared in high glee. His women were all singing around him; and on my seating myself, he pointed to me and said, that it was on my account this rejoicing was made. I could have burst into tears-it was a most trying situation. Dingarn himself was leading the tune; crouched beneath. him, in front of the fence, was one of his servants, performing all the usual gesticulations of frantic Proceeding from this place, the country is still joy; while the unfortunate prisoners, but a little fertile and populous, well watered by the Umson-distance on my right, were destined to witness dusi and Evoota, both of which streams we crossed, and soon after the Amatakoola, beyond which are some fine trees. Among these were several known by the colonists as the Kafir Boom, but called by the natives Umseensi; they were the first I had seen in blossom, and certainly made a most splendid appearance. It somewhat resembles the English elder, but throws out short bossy thorns on every part of the trunk and branches; it grows to the height of twenty or thirty feet, and sheds its leaves in winter; but the blossom generally remains in great beauty for a considerable time afterwards, appearing at the ends of the twigs like a shuttle-cock with crimson feathers. At a little before sunset ascended a hill, and stopped at Hengi, a village belonging to Mangani, the Indoona of Intoutella. The sun declined in great beauty behind a bold range of mountains, over which the summit of that near to Congella was just visible. So little attention was paid to the wants of the prisoners, that it became necessary to insist on their being regularly supplied with provisions; and here the unfeeling wretches, when urged on their arrival to give them some Indian corn, replied, in their presence, "What is the use of giving them food, they are dead already.” these unfeeling ebullitions of delight, occasioned, as it was evident, by their appearance, bound, and with the reach of punishment. Not satisfied with one song, several were added, which, with the clapping of hands in chorus, must have been audible at a considerable distance. I scarcely dared turn to the right; the countenances of Nonha and her companions were truly distressing! During the whole journey of one hundred and twenty miles they had anticipated a cruel death; and now every instant they expected to be hurried away to execution. The songs at length being ended, and a large bowl of beer being presented to me, Dingarn came out with some dignity, habited in a new cloak of many colors, and wearing across his forehead a band of the pink ribbon I had formerly given him By this time the whole male population had assembled, and, seating themselves around us in a half circle, when a formal treat commenced, the king in person demanding of each of the prisoners why they had left his country. The offences were stated, and evidence given by many who were present. Mankanjana was the first who was questioned, and his replies were given in a sitting posture, Dingarn standing the whole time; but when it came to Nanha's turn, both the women were desired to stand up, on which Nongalaza, with great emphasis, exclaimed, "There is the woman we used to call our mother: she was placed by the king to provide food for the warriors on their return from battle!" Her case was then entered into minutely. As the sun had set during this long conversation, Dingarn said that, if I chose, I could retire, and that he would see me again in the morning. Having ascertained that there was no intention to execute them this evening, I took my leave: the people, however, remained a considerable time longer to regale themselves on tough beef, which, in anticipation of my arrival with the prisoners, had been cooked for distribution. As I rose to leave the assembly, Dingarn observed: "Now we see that you belong to the Zoolus." I replied, It will always be my desire to prove myself a friend to the Zoolus." A good supply of meat and fire-wood was soon after sent to my hut, which, although removed from its original position, was the same which I had formerly occupied.The transit I had hoped would have dislodged the colony of rats, but I was soon convinced of their predilection to their former haunts. that their lives should be spared, which, indeed, was all that I had expected to obtain. To this conclusion, as Dingarn informed me, they had come last night; and he also stated that Mankanjana, had he not sent an insolent message to him, and made so many efforts to escape, would have been pardoned. They are all sentenced to be kept in confinement, and I fear this will be for life. The business being now over, the men were called together, and soon surrounded us in a dense semicircle, sitting three-deep on the ground.Among these were six men from a distant tribe, who, until my first arrival here, had never before seen a white person. Dingarn himself pointed them out to me; and observing that I took some interest in them, ordered them to sit in a group before me. In order to try their nerves, Dingarn, by way of sport, requested my interpreter to bring his gun, which to their great surprise was twice fired, the men instinctively placed their hands to their ears on hearing the report. Some inquiries were then made by Dingarn, who had approached me to examine my dress, as to the method of making cloth; and, on his again seating himself, the European mode of constructing houses was discussed. He was greatly interested in the descriptions of each, and expressed much astonishment at the facts which I related of rooms being built in our houses one over the other, thinking it impossible that the floors should not break through Thursday, 28th.-Went up, by desire of the king, at ten-found him seated on the outside of the Issigōrdlo, habited in a cloak which was completed at Intoutella, and accompanied by five of his principal Indoonas, seated near him on the ground. As it was my wish to make an impres-with the weight. sion, in the hope of obtaining the release of the prisoners, I appeared in full uniform. All were loud in their congratulations, and thanked me inuch for having brought back the deserters. I told them that I required no thanks; that I had only done what it was my duty to do. Dingarn said, that now his people would love him; whereas before they had hated him, because he refused to permit an army to go down to Port Natal: that for two years the chiefs had been urging him to destroy all the black people there, but that he had withheld his consent. Nongalaza and the other chiefs assented, saying, that for the last two years this had been their desire; that they should not have molested the white people, but that they had requested the king to allow them to kill all the blacks. I told Dingarn that we thanked him for his forbearance, as those who had fled from his country richly deserved punishment; and, turning to the Indoonas, added, “Now you see how good the counsel was that the king gave you."Dingarn observed, that now he was convinced that the white people at Port Natal wished to do him good. I told him that peaceable words were better than armies; by sending out warriors he could only obtain the bodies of men, but by peaceable words he gained their hearts: that now we were all united to observe the treaty, and that, as long as he adhered to this part of the agreement, he might rely upon it we should to ours. As he appeared in high good humor, I thought it a good opportunity to introduce my suit in favor of the prisoners, and strove hard to obtain an unconditional pardon. This, however, I soon found was far too large a request, and indeed his arguments to the contrary, founded on the usages of the country, were too powerful to combat. I therefore contented myself with obtaining his assurance 66 The important topic of beads was then introduced; and on this subject he was particularly desirous of information. "Where do they come from?" "What are they made of?" How are they made?" "Cannot we learn to make them?" -were a few of the questions which, to the best of my ability, I endeavored to answer satisfactorily; but he was not satisfied until I promised. should I live to see England again, and return, that I would bring him some of the material of which they are made. The people were then desired to sing, which they continued to do for some time; and, although seated, performed the manual part in excellent time and much grace, Dingarn and the Indoonas often accompanying them in the evolutions of their hands. In order that the compliment might not be mistaken, the king informed me that he had purposely called the people together in order that I might hear how they sang at Congella. Had it not been for a powerful sun, and the incumbrance of a cloth uniform, I could have enjoyed both the scene and the many animating songs which continued until noon; but as, in addition to these inconveniences, I had not yet breakfasted, I felt somewhat relieved when this long conference was at length broken up.— During the intervals of the songs, six head of cattle were speared for distribution among the people; some within a few yards of the spot where we were seated. They all ran some little distance after receiving the spear, which is not thrown, but thrust into the side near the heart; and, on their falling, parties were despatched to make the necessary preparations for disposing of the meat. On returning to my hut I wrote to Port Natal, at the request of Dingarn, to inform the settlers that he had demanded, under the stipulations of the treaty, the children belonging to Nonha's party. As they had been allowed by the Numzana, or head of the village, where they had taken refuge, to make their escape, it had been arranged, on my setting out for this place, that, in the event of their being demanded, either themselves or Umfazaguatu (the Numzāna) should be given up. Friday, 29th.-Last night I had a long conversation with three of the Unguani people, respecting their country and knowledge of a Supreme Being, &c. These were the persons pointed out by Dingarn, as having never before seen a white man. On being told yesterday that God had spoken words to men for the regulation of their conduct here, they had very anxiously inquired. "What has he said?" They, as well as the prisoners, were accordingly sent for this morning to attend the prayers in my hut, when an exposition of the Ten Commandments was given. On leaving I was surprised to hear from the prisoners, that they had tasted nothing since the last food we had given them on the road, which was about three o'clock on Wednesday. I immediately desired Umpondombeeni to boil some lupōko meal which I had by me; but he was unable to borrow a vessel for the purpose, my own saucepan being too small. It now struck me that there must be some design in such unfeeling conduct; and, sending for Mambayendi, I informed him of what they had just said, desiring him to acquaint the king, and to say, that I felt convinced it could not be his intention to starve them. He was also desired to inform him, that I had continued to instruct them, but should not do so in future without his permission, as it was only in the Clomanthleen that he had allowed me to teach. This I deemed necessary, as he would not fail to hear every particular. Mambayendi soon returned with an answer, which quite weighed down my spirits. Dingarn's reply was, "You have done your utmost in bringing them bound to me, and then speaking for them; but as they have committed great offences you must not ask for them any more. Their bonds must kill them!" I was not again to teach them; and he had given orders that they should not be supplied with food. Inhuman wretch ! The death they had so much dreaded would have been mercy compared with the torture of lingering out a few more days of painful existence, and at last falling the famished victims of hunger and want. Too true, indeed, were the last words that fell from them on leaving my hut. As it appeared by their statement that Mankanjana alone had been informed that he was not to be killed, I endeavored to quell their fears, by saying that the king had himself assured me that all their lives should be spared; on which Nonha, in a mournful voice, replied, "They are killing us now." Had another long conversation with Umkolwani, who is an inferior chief among the Unguäni, the substance of which I shall now relate : They belong to a tribe called Unguāni, situated as far as I could collect, to the N. N. E. of Unkunginglove, at a distance of nine days' journey. On the fifth day from Unkunginglove, they reached the river Impongolo, and four days more bring them to Elangani, where their king, Sobūza, resides. Nearer to the Umpongola is another town, called Nobamba both are small compared to the Zoolu towns; are built in the same form, but without fences; and contain the whole population of the tribe, which is now greatly diminished. The male population does not exceed a hundred; but as each man has from five to ten wives, the whole, including children, may be estimated at about twelve hundred. They were formerly independent, but subjugated by Charka, who deprived them of all their cattle: they have neither sheep nor goats, and, as grain is but scantily cultivated, they are often necessitated to subsist entirely on roots. The flats are covered with very high grass, and these, as well as the mountains, produce large timber. Wild animals abound, and, besides those common in this part of the country, they have the rhinoceros and tiger: they appeared to know nothing either of the ostrich or cameleopard. The eyland is the only large animal they hunt, being fearful to approach the elephant, although aware of the value of its tusks. Alligators abound in the rivers, some of which they describe as large, but all fordable at certain times. The Lesūta is the largest next to the Umpongola, which divides them from the Zoolu country, and after that the Motani: these are all much wider than the Tugăla. They have no canoes, and only first saw the sea when they came into this neighborhood. They seemed to be an insulated tribe, having no relation with any other people than their conquerors. All speak the Zoolu language; and, until they perceived us conversing in English, said that it was the first time they had heard a tongue differing from their own. Indeed Umkolwani was highly amused åt my communicating with him through an interpreter, and shrewdly observed, "You speak to him, and then he speak to me ;" and, on the reason being explained, snapped his fingers* in evident surprise. In appearance and dress, or rather undress, they are similar to the Zoolus, and as they now generally wear the ring on the head, which has been adopted since they became tributary to Charka, they are scarcely to be distinguished from them. Their women also shave their heads, but wear the small tuft on the crown somewhat higher. The whole country to the north and west they describe as an arid desert, extending, especially to the northward, beyond their knowledge, and much broken with abrupt precipices. In the northern desert, which is entirely sand, there is a large river, to the banks of which they have been, but none have ever crossed it, nor have they ever heard of any people living beyond them either north or west. On the east there is a tribe of Zoolus called Nobambas, from whom they obtain iron for heading their spears and assegais: they heard of Sofala, but have never been there, or seen any of the people. Their houses are of a similar construction with these, but formed chiefly of mats and reeds. Their king, Sobūza, the same who Charky subdued, has still the power of life and death. Malefactors, when capitally punished, are struck on the head with knobbed sticks, as is the practice here, but they are never impaled; with the exception of these, their dead are always interred, being first * A Zoolu can scarcely speak without snapping his fingers at every sentence; and when energetic, a double snap is often made, and that between every four or five words. bound up in their clothes and mats. They describe the hot winds as sometimes so oppressive as to oblige them to leave their houses, and ascend the very tops of the mountains in order to obtain a gasp of air. The climate is so exceedingly unhealty, and that at all times of the year, that Umkolwani said he expected to find many ill on his return, although it was winter; that season, if any, being the most sickly. Rain is unknown, but the nightly dews are heavy. The prevailing sickness is of two kinds-one, an affection of the throat and lungs, from which they often recover; but the other is a seizure so sudden and fatal, that frequently in a few minutes, and generally in a quarter of an hour, from the first attack, life is extinct. On these occasions they complain of pains in the loins, back, and front of the head; and, after death, vomit a black liquid from the mouth. They have no knowledge of medicine, and invariably leave the sick to languish without attempting any remedy. A removal from this insalubrious climate frequently restores them when suffering from the first named disorder; and Umkolwani himself declared, that on quitting his country the complaint in his chest had immediately left him. In common with the Amakosa, Zoolus, &c. they observe the festival of the First Fruits. Circumsion is still practised among them, notwithstanding the desuetude into which it has here gone since the reign of Charka. Although they had heard of white people, we are the first whom they had ever seen. They all acknowledged that when they first saw us they mistook us for wild beasts; and one of them actually ran from my horse, who was quietly feeding near the town, taking him also for some ferocious animal. On hearing the issibum (gun) go off yesterday, they said that they thought the heavens were opening, and began to be alarmed. The effect of some lucifer matches now exhibited, surprised them greatly. And they informed me, that when they returned to their own people, they should tell them that "they had seen white men, and that they had the fire." On the subject of religion they were in total darkness; every tradition had worn out; and they presented the awful spectacle of immortal beings without the knowledge or acknowledgment of a Creator. Umkolwani confessed that, while on his long journeys, he had often wondered how things came, but could never find out; and had always supposed they came by chance. When the body died, they conceived that it perished; but the soul, after it was in the ground entered the body of a snake. Of a day of future retribution they had not the slightest idea, nor did they know any thing of an evil spirit. What a blank is the life of man, without a knowledge of God! and how pitiable and cheerless his condition, until the Sun of Righteousness arises within to raise his affections to things above, and shed the love of God abroad in his heart! I was in great hopes that one of these interesting people would have remained with me, with the intention of instructing him; and, by the blessing of God, preparing him to bear the glad tidings of salvation to his benighted countrymen; but, notwithstanding the sickness which they had all felt, and again apprehended, the charms of home and a land of nativity were too powerful allurements: should missionaries ever be sent to that country, this method, on account of its baneful climate, will perhaps be the most judicious. The followig are the names of the three men whom I endeavored to instruct, Umkolwani (Chief,) Makǎtakāta, Unganássi. The two lads named Umthlathla and Cussesendîna were absent cutting wood. This evening the principal Indoonas assembled in my hut to inform me that the king had made me a present of twelve head of oxen; and that he wished them to be considered as a token of his gratitude, for having concluded the treaty with him: that as such a "fast word " had passed between him and me, it was right that there should be something to show, as a proof that it had been accepted on both sides. I told them that, as a pledge of the king's favor, I would certainly accept them; but that I required no presents; all I wished for was friendship. They replied, that if I did not accept them there would be nothing to show: that the king had desired them to say, that that on this day he received me into his country, and that these oxen would be a token to all of what he had done; that he was not yet tired, but should do more hereafter. I assured them that my desire to befriend the king would not be increased by any presents he could make; that now he knew me, and would always find me the same-ever desirous to do him and his people service. They said it was not the king only who thanked me this day; it was the whole Zoolu nation. Having inspect ed the herd which were driven to a spot near my hut, the Indoonas returned according to custom to thank the king in my name. This present was in addition to a cow sent for slaughtering this afternoon; but I could enjoy nothing; the very sight of plenty filled my mind with the horrid spectacle of suffering, which was about to be exhibited in a hut not far removed from my own. Saturday, 30th.-Understood that a bowl of beer had been given to the prisoners yesterday by order of the king; my servants likewise contrived to give them the liver of the cow. This apparent consideration on the part of Dingarn I consider only as an aggravation to their sufferings, like the brief respite which the tiger gives to his prey, and was probably intended as a blind, merely to sustain their lives until our departure. Early this morning Mambayendi brought a message from the king, expressing his wish, if it were not inconvenient, that I would return to Port Natal, as he was anxious to hear tidings of some recent deserters. On this, I sent to inform him that it had been my intention to have apprised him this day of my proposed return on Monday; but as he was anxious for me to proceed, should the weather clear up (there had been much rain during the night,) I would set out this forenoon, although we should not travel to-morrow, as it was our holy-day. On taking leave of Dingarn, I took an opportunity to thank him personally for the oxen, saying, that when I looked upon them I should think of the agreement exist. ing between him and the white people at Port Natal. He said, that on my next visit he should |
