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of success, I told him that I hoped he would soon alter the word he had spoken, and that whenever he wished a teacher for his people, he must send me a message to Port Natal. It was late before we reached Unkunginglove that evening, and early on Monday, the 9th, the bearers appointed by Dingarn to convey my baggage were in advance, and I found myself reluctantly leaving the town, now almost deserted of its inhabitants, and where I had fondly hoped that some progress in Christian instruction would ere this have been effected. But well it is for us, that God's ways are not our ways; by such disappointments he not only proves and prepares the instruments by whom he often deigns to work, but shows us that his purposes will ripen and unfold without their aid. I felt much comfort in repeating those beautiful lines of Cowper

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Wait for His seasonable aid,
And if it tarry-wait;

The promise may be long delayed,
But cannot come too late."

So satisfied did I feel of a favorable result to my request, that the horse had actually been sent off; a long walk of three days was therefore before me, in which, exclusive of fording the rivers, we averaged about thirty miles in each. The following, which is the only scrap remaining of my lost Journal, I should perhaps apologise for inserting, but, as it will give some idea of my spacious apartment in the Zoolu capital, may not be here altogether out of place.

MY ZOOLU HUT.

Dear is that spot, however mean,
Which once we've called our own,
And if 'twas snug, and neat, and clean,
Our thoughts oft thither roam.

I see them now-those four* low props,
That held the hay-stack o'er my head;
The dusky frame-work from their tops,
Like a large mouse-trap, round me spread.

Once entered, I forgot the pain

My broken back sustained;
But when obliged to crawl again,
From tears I scarce refrained.

To stand erect I never tried,

For reasons you may guess; Full fourteen feet my hut was wide Its height was nine feet less.

My furniture, a scanty store,

Some saddle-bags beside me laid; A hurdle used to close the door, Raised upon stones, my table made.

And when, my visiters arrived,

To sit, and prate, and stare; Of light and air at once deprived, The heat I scarce could bear.

* Many of the huts have but one support in the

centre.

The solid ground my softest bed,
A mat my mattress made;
The friendly saddle raised my head,
As in my cloak I laid.

The homely lizard harmless crept
Unnoticed through the door;
And rats their gambols round me kept,
While sleeping on the floor.

Such was my humble Zoolu home, And memory paints thee yet; While life shall last, where'er I roam, That lut I'll ne'er forget.

In the course of the first day's journey we met some messengers hastening towards Unkunginglove with intelligence of the sickness of an influential Indoona residing at some distance. They informed me that they were proceeding directly to the king, who, on being made accquainted with the nature of his disorder, would send down such medicine as he thought proper. This I am told is the usual practice. Dingarn expects to be made acquainted with the ailments of all his printhe case is then referred to the doctors residing in cipal people; when any danger is apprehended, the capital, and, according to their advice, medicine is forwarded to the patient, who, whether it agree or not, is obliged to take it.

The state of my wardrobe at this time but too well corresponded with my lodging, and it was only by tying the remains of my shoes to my feet that I was enabled to retain the advantage of a sole, until we reached the Tugăla, when, to my no small gratification and surprise, our reiterated shouts for the boat were at length answered by my friend Mr. Berkin, whom I soon perceived anxiously waiting on the rocks for my arrival on the opposite bank. Our meeting here was not, indeed, altogether unexpected, as in the note received at Imbelli-belli he had signified his intention of paying me a visit at Unkûnginglove, in company with Mr. Collis, who was at that time about to take his annual lected by Dingarn, who keeps this description of journey, to purhase the ivory which had been coltrade entirely in his own hands. So anxious was my friend to render his advice and assistance in my present circumstances, that he at once gave up the prosecution of a trip which had previously excited much of his curiosity and interest, and insisted on accompanying me back to Port Natal, where we arrived on Saturday, the 14th, with one of the wagons he had so kindly conducted from the Umzimvoobo.

"There hath not failed one word of all His good promise, which he promised."-1 KINGS viii. 56.

Firm is the Rock in Zion laid,
A refuge that has never failed;
Sure is the feeblest hope that's stayed
On Him who over death prevailed.

No word He's uttered shall be void,
No promise He has spoken, fail;
Though long delayed, 'tis not destroyed,
But surely shall at last prevail.

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Although from its position and maritime intercourse with the Cape Colony, this port must ever be regarded as the key, not only to the Zoolu country, but likewise to a very considerable portion of the interior districts on this side of the continent; there were many objections to its being selected at this time, as the seat of a missionary establishment, which it will not now be necessary to state; but at the same time I feel it not less a duty than a pleasing gratification to attribute the removal, and softening down of many of these difficulties, to the kind and unsolicited interference of my valued friend Mr. Berkin, who, during the few days which he remained here, prior to his recent journey to the Tugăla, lost no opportunity of ascertaining the general feeling on this subject, in the event of my failure with Dingarn, and strongly recommended me to accede to the apparent wishes of the community.

Having given the matter full consideration, a reply was forwarded in the following terms,

PORT NATAL, March, 16th, 1835.

GENTLEMEN,-The kind manner in which you have expressed your desire for a Missionary to be established at Natal, and the readiness with which you have pledged yourselves to support him in his endeavors to inculcate true religion, throw open so wide a door for usefulness, that, independent of my own inclination, I feel it would not be consistent with my duty to decline your invitation to remain among you.

If you will, therefore, accept my personal services, they are most cheerfully offered until the necessary buildings are completed, and arrangements can be made for a clergyman of the church of England to occupy this important station.

That these mutual endeavors for the temporal and spiritual welfare of immortal souls may be blessed with abundant success from the God of all grace is my ardent prayer; and I trust that the character and conduct of all those who may be engaged in this work will always bear the strictest scrutiny, and uphold an example which may correspond with the divine truths they posfess to teach.

I am, gentlemen, Your most obedient servant, "ALLEN F. GARDINER."

To the English Residents at Port Natal.

A few notices from a brief missionary journal, kept about this time, will be sufficient in this place to continue the thread of the narrative.

Sunday, March 15th, forenoon.-English service under the trees, at Mr. Berkin's.-Thirteen Europeans present.

Afternoon,-Kafir service.-One hundred and fifty natives.

Thursday 19th.-Selected a site for the missionary premises, with a tract of land surrounding it on the north-east side of the bay, upon a hill commanding an extensive prospect.

Friday 20th.-Took formal possession of the land which was secured to me by an agreement signed by all the white inhabitants; decided on naming the missionary establishment "Berea,'

since, notwithstanding my ill success with Dingarn, the word has here been gladly received.

Sunday 22d. The principal settlers had intended to have sent all their people to the afternoon service, in order that I might form an estimate of the black population and address them; but they were prevented from assembling by the heavy rain.

Morning-English service in my hut. Afternoon.—Kafirs in front of the tent.-Sixty natives attended notwithstanding the rain.

me, at a spot nearer the bay, which he had selected for his own residence, and where he was

engaged in clearing the ground, and erecting some temporary buildings.

About this time there was a prevailing rumor that the Zoolus were meditating an attack upon the settlement; and so much credit was given to the report, that we recommended a general meeting of the white inhabitants, to consult upon some plan for mutual assistance in the event of their approach; but so little had any to lose, and so accustomed were they to similar intelligence, that they affected to regard the matter as a casualty to which they had often been exposed, and coolly signified their intention to take the "bush," should the necessity arise.

Tuesday 24th.-Great meeting the people assemble at Mr. Berkin's-stood under the shade of a high tree, and addressed them, as they sat round, on the object of forming a mission among them the nature of true religion-what it was houses, of sitting upon our boxes, and enduring Our present necessity of tenanting bee-hive proposed to do for them, and what would be ex- either the bites of musquitoes, or inhaling the pected from them-such as attendance on public smoke, which alone would exclude them, was cerworship sending their children to the school-tainly not from any decided predilection to such a setting a good example in their families-not to mode of life, but still infinitely superior to the bush be hasty in judging of what they do not under-system proposed (a sudden nomadic retreat to stand, but to hear often, and to ask for explana- the woods to escape the Zoolu spear!)—we tions, which would at all times be readily given. Many women brought their infants-there were at at least six hundred adults, and a great many children. The attention they gave was very encouraging, and their whole conduct exceedingly orderly. They arrived in distinct companies, the people of each white chief coming up, and continuing together; and in the same order they moved off with the greatest regularity, the men preceding the women, as is always customary in

this country.

Wednesday 25th.-Commenced the school in the tent, with two girls and four boys. Gave each a piece of printed calico, that they might appear decently dressed. More children would have been sent, but the parents, I understand, have an idea that it is my intention to take them away with me.

Such was the feeble commencement of this infant mission—a day, indeed, of small things; but, blessed be God, we are but His instruments, and though without him we can do nothing, when He vouchsafes to bless His own work it will prosper. To delve and to plough, and to cast in the seed, is ours; but, though Paul may preach and Apollos may water, to God alone must we look for the increase, and in his own good time, if we faint not, it will doubtless appear.

With these occupations my time was now fully employed. The prejudice respecting the schools soon passed over; but still I did not more than double the number, having at that time but little accommodation; and considering that it would be far better to train a few in the first instance, to act as monitors in a larger school, than to commence on a more extended plan.

Although I had already entered into a contract for the necessary buildings at Berea, (a schoolhouse, to be used also as a church, and two dwelling-houses,) and some huts, on the native plan, were also constructing for my accommodation, I was (until the completion of the latter) still living in a hut, which Mr. Berkin had kindly offered

therefore turned our thoughts to some other method of protection. But two plans remained— either to abandon, or to defend the place; and, circumstanced as we now were, we had no hesitation in adopting the latter. The ground was immediately marked out; a party of natives engaged; and in a very short time a sufficient stockade was erected round a wattled house (which Mr. Berkin was then building,) for the protection of the whole settlement, should they prefer this alternative to their favorite one of "bushing it."

In this position matters stood on the arrival of the Circe trading sloop from Algoa Bay, and by which Mr. Berkin decided on returning to the colony, for the purpose of purchasing stock and supplies for the farming establishment which he had already commenced, with the intention of returning and making this his future residence. By this time the huts at Berea were completed; and as they were more commodious than those he had hitherto inhabited, my friend spent the last day with me there previous to his embarkation, and

attended the first services which were held at the
mission station, on Sunday, March 19th. I took
leave of him before day-light the following morn-
ing. By eight o'clock the sloop was under weigh,
and with no ordinary feelings did I watch her
progress, until concealed by the intervening land;
little supposing at the time that I had taken my
last farewell of my kind and valued friend!
a precaution in the event of an attack from the
Zoolus, my journals had been forwarded by this
but as
opportunity to my agents in Cape Town;
no account has been since heard of the sloop,
there can be but one opinion respecting her fate.

As

Description of Port Natal.—The entrance to the port is narrow, but it immediately expands into a beautiful sheet of water, of nearly an oval shape, having a low island near the upper end, and exhibiting from the neighboring heights all the peculiar characteristics of lake scenery. Both the island and the banks of the bay are covered with mangrove-trees, the wood of which has been

and Indian corn,* ground beans, and sweet potatoes; and so abundant are the corn crops, that, although it is only cultivated in patches, and that by the natives alone turning up the surface with their hoes, a great quantity has been purchased during the present year, for exportation to the Mauritius. It is now generally allowed, that the herbage in the immediate vicinity of the coast is not so favorable to cattle as that which grows at a short distance inland; still they fatten, but greatly improve by a removal to a distance of even three or four miles.

The

A fair trial has not been given to sheep; they have only been flocked near the coast, an experiment which has in consequence failed. grasses are there far too rank, and the soil too humid, for rearing them to advantage; but there can be little doubt of a vary different result, should the dry, elevated, and sufficiently watered downs, which commence about fifteen or twenty miles from the coast, and occupy a considerable tract of the interior, be selected for the purpose. The grass in all these districts is shorter and richer than that on the lower grounds near the sea, and

for grazing purposes; especially the rearing of sheep, a description of farming which in all probability will eventually succeed far better than in any part of the Cape Colony, where the cold winter-rains are so often fatal, while the converse obtains here, the rainy season commencing in October, and ending about February or March, which are the warmest months.

found to be very durable in buildings; and so low is the general level of the land to the foot of the surrounding hills, that during the spring-tides a great part on the north side is overflowed. Near the sea coast, and upon the slopes of all the hills which face the bay, the woods are comparatively thick and tangled; but on gaining the first or second ridge, they only occur in ornamental clumps, large tracts of open ground intervening, and affording every facility for immediate tillage. By a little attention to draining, the whole of the flats which margin the bay may be available for agricultural purposes; and so rich is the alluvium in some of these places, that a very productive garden has lately been laid out by Mr. Collis, in a spot still surrounded by reeds, and formerly entirely occupied by them. With the exception of Mr. Collis's house, constructed of reeds and mud, there was not a single dwelling of the European fashion in the whole settlement on my first arrival; and to a stranger, unacqainted with the localities, the whole had a most wild and deserted appearance. On account of the frequent threats of Dingarn to send down and reclaim his runaways, the open country was considered as un-in every respect they appear to be well adapted safe, and every village and hut carefully concealed among the woods with so much ingenuity and labor, that in threading the narrow and winding avenues leading to some of these jungle fastnesses, I have often fancied I was approaching the dismal abode of some desperate buccanier. Although widely scattered, the native population in the immediate vicinity may be estimated at 2500, among whom about thirty Europeans and a Of the natural productions, there are doubtless few Hottentots are residing. In this heterogeneous many which might be turned to good account.community, a singular transposition to the general From the bark of the mimosa, a good tanning order has taken place; the natives, although but liquid may be produced; its gum, when properly barely raised above the lowest scale of civilization, cleansed, is esteemed as an article of commerce. subsist by agriculture, while the Europeans, with Some of the woods, particularly the umtabōta, but few exceptions, live entirely by hunting. But, which has the color and fragrance of cedar, would in drawing this contrast, which is merely curious bear a beautiful polish. The castor-oil tree, and and incidental, I must not be understood to infer, the indigo plant, are indigenous, and, by proper that it is for the daily supply of food that the hun- cultivation and care, it is probable that the latter ter is thus actively employed: far otherwise is the may be brought to the perfection which is necesfact; his usual game is the elephant and the buf- sary for producing the dye. Almost all the shrubs falo; and, by disposing of the tooth of the one, bear a flower at some season of the year; the and the hide of the other, he obtains a sufficient creepers are particularly beautiful, and I know no fund for his present exigences; and, were but an part of the world where the parterre may be emequitable scale of prices established for the colo-bellished with a greater profusion of beautiful innial goods he may require, it would, with common digenous, but generally scentless, flowers, than in prudence and industry, very soon place him in comparatively comfortable circumstances. Hippopotami are still numerous, and the hides, until lately, were an article of export; but, from some cause, they have lost their value, and the huge animal is now only shot for the sake of the meat, which is often eaten, both fresh and salted, as well as for the fat, which makes an excellent substitute for oil, and burns well and without smell, in open lamps, but it is of too solid a nature to run in the ordinary way.

A good supply of fish may be obtained from the bay, but both boats and nets are wanting to render this more than precarious at present, although the natives, with a little encouragement, might be induced to catch them very regularly; I have sometimes been supplied in this way. The soil, in general, is a light sandy loam, not favorable for large timber, but yielding excellent crops of Kafir

this favored spot. Small single pinks and tulips are very common, as also geraniums, and many very beautiful lilies; but the small white bellshaped flowers which grow upon a shrub, from five to eight feet high, not unlike a myrtle, are by far the most fragrant, and would be an acquisition to any green-house or garden. Although so much farther north, the climate is not hotter than at Cape Town, which can only be accounted for by the absence of sands, and the thick mantle of grass which covers every part which is not occupied by timber. Having unfortunately lost the use of my thermometer, I am unable to speak from observation, but I have no hesitation in saying, both from

The ear is beat out with sticks, upon a smooth thrashing-floor of earth, smeared over with manure; one of them is generally seen near every town or village.

personal experience and the opinion of those who have lived long in the country, that it is equally as cool, and certainly as salubrious, as the finest parts of the Cape Colony.

more powerful than the Zoolus. Charka usually headed his army, but at the period of his death they were engaged on a distant expedition against a powerful chief named Sotchangan, ruling a It is remarkable, that the same disease, called country to the north-west of Dela Goa Bay, which the horse sickness, so prevalent at Albany, and in proved unsuccessful. At this time, 1829, two of other parts of the colony, is equally destructive to his own brothers, Dingarn and Umthlangan, conhorses here. It is said to be an affection of the spired against his life, assisted by Satai, a princilungs, and attacks them only during the hottest pal domestic of great influence. Diverting his season; in March and April this year, it was un- attention by driving from his presence some men usually fatal, carrying off nearly all the horses who had been exhibiting some feathers for sale, within a few weeks. With the exception of one he received an assegai wound in the back from bit by a snake in Kafirland, two swept away in one of this treacherous party, who were anxiously the Umcamas, and one shot in crossing another watching the favorable opportunity. He immeriver, but one horse remains to me; the rest hav-diately rose and attempted to throw off his ingooing died of this disorder, for which no remedies bo (skin mantle,) but fell in the act. His last have as yet been applied with success.

words were, "What have I done to you?-children of my father!" Although Dingarn was present and consenting, it is not believed that he took an active part in the murderous deed. Charka is generally allowed to have been illegitimate, and prior to his death had nominated Dingarn as his successor; but it appears that it was the object of Satai to set this aside in favor of Umthlangan, the younger brother. The plot was soon discothe hand of his brother, who, notwithstanding, permitted Satai to escape with impunity. Until very lately he was residing at his own village, on the Umthlatûsi; but has recently been killed by order of Dingarn. These two unnatural brothers are said to have drunk, on the spot, the gall of the chief they had conspired to assassinate ! sovereignty is hereditary in the nearest male relative: a brother of Dingarn, still living, is the presumptive heir.

That the rank pasturage in the neighborhood of the bay, and the fogs which occasionally rest upon the flats in that vicinity, may be regarded as secondary causes in producing these diseases in horses, I have little doubt; and there is much to favor the opinion, which is now becoming more general, that if these spots were avoided, and the higher table-lands selected for their grazing ground during the period of attack—which, though vary-vered, and Umthlangan murdered, it is said, by ing in degree, is said to be annual-they would not suffer to the extent they now do, and probably might escape altogether. The introduction of mules, and a good breed of Spanish asses, would be very desirable, as they would not only be better adapted for carrying burdens, and the general purposes of travelling, in this country, than horses, but, in all probability, from their hardy nature, would escape the sickness which has been alluded to. In closing these few remarks, I should not omit the opinion of a party of Dutch farmers, who were on their return to the colony about the time I was travelling towards this settlement. They had heard much of the soil and capabilities of Port Natal for agricultural purposes, and, resolving to

decide for themselves on the accuracy of these reports, they formed a large party, and, with ten or twelve wagons, proceeded at once to this place. After advancing towards the Tugala, and thoroughly examining the whole district, they not only acknowledged that the accounts they had heard had not been exaggerated, but set out on their return for their several families, with a full determination to locate them in this neighborhood-a resolution which the sudden breaking out of the Kafir war has alone prevented them from executing.

The remainder of this chapter I shall now devote to such memoranda relating to the history, military organization, and customs, &c. of the Zoolus, as I have been enabled to collect, but on which, from the loss of my previous journal, I am prevented from enlarging; being unwilling to write from memory more than is absolutely necessary.

History. The immediate ancestors of Dingarn in the supreme authority are Jama, Senzanákona, Charka. The latter was brought up with Tingaswão, king of the Umtetwa, who is reported to have been a man of great sagacity, and to have originated some parts of the military system, which Charka subsequently brought to such perfection. The Umtetwa at that period were a people far

The

Titles of the King.-Byǎte. (No signification yet ascertained.)

Baba-(Father) used in reply, as "Yeărbo Baba," "Yes, Father." The same term is also

used by inferiors of all ranks to them above them.

The noble elephant;

Thou who art for ever;

Thou who art as high as the heavens ;
Thou who begettest the men ;
The black one;

Thou who art the bird who eats other birds;
Thou who art as high as the mountains;
Thou who art the peace maker, &c.

Military organization.-The whole kingdom
may be considered as a camp, and every male be-
longs to one or other of the following orders :-
Veterans.
Umpagati
Isimporthlo

&

Izinseezwa

Younger soldiers.

Amabootu Lads who have not served in war. The two former are distinguished by rings on their heads, the others do not shave the hair.

Throughout the country there are ekanda, or barrack towns, in which a certain number of each class are formed into a regiment, from six hundred to about one thousand strong, and where they are obliged to assemble during half the year, principally for the practice of dancing, which is considered as a military exercise. In the whole country there are said to be from fourteen to sixteen large ekandas, and several of a smaller size; and it is

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