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tifes upon cockle-fhells, did not think it beneath him to comment on the works of Apicius Cælius, who had collected together many valuable receipts in cookery, as practifed by the Romans. If you would preferve your papers from the indignity of covering breafts of veal, or wrapping up cutlets à la Maintenon, I would advife you to lard them now and then with the ragouts of Heliogabalus, or a parallel between our modern foups and the Lacedemonian black broth. Your works might then be univerfally read, from the mistress in the parlour down to the cookmaid and fcullion.

It is abfolutely neceffary for people of all tempers, complexions, perfuafions, habits, and itations of life, however they may differ in other particulars, to concur in the grand article of eating. And as the humours of the body arife from the food we take in, the difpofitions of the mind feem to bear an equal refemblance to our places of refreshment. You have already taken a review of our feveral coffee-houfes; and I wish you would proceed to delineate the different characters that are to be found in our taverns and chophouses. A friend of mine always judges of a man of taste and fashion, by afking, who is his peruke-maker or his taylor? Upon the fame principles, when I would form a juft opinion of any man's temper and inclinations, I always enquire, where does he dine?

The difference between the taverns near St. James's, and those about the 'Change, confifts, not fo much in the coftliness as the fubftance of their viands. The round-bellied alderman, who breathes the foggy air of the city, requires a more folid diet than the light kickshaws of our meagre perfons of quality. My Lord, or Sir John, after having whiled away an hour or two at the parliament-house, drive to the Star and Garter, to regale on Macaroni, or piddle with an Ortolan; while the merchant, who has plodded all the morning in the Alley, fits down to a turtle-feaft at the Crown or the King's Arms, and crams himself with Calipath and Calipee. As the city taverns are appropriated to men of bufinefs, who drive bargains for thoufands over their morning's gill, the taverns about the court are generally filled with an infipid race of mortals, who have no

thing to do. Among thefe you may fee moft of our young men of fashion, and young officers of the guards, who meet at thefe places to thew the elegance of their tafte by the expenfiveness of their dinner: and many an enfign, with scarce any income but his commiffion, prides himself on keeping the best company, and often throws down more than a week's pay for his reckoning; though at other times it obliges him, with feveral of his brethren upon half pay, to dine with Duke Humphry in St. James's Park.

The taverns about the purlieus of Covent-Garden are dedicated to Venus, as well as Ceres and Liber; and you may frequently fee the jolly mess-mates of both fexes go in and come out in couples, like the clean and unclean beafts in Noah's ark. These houses

are equally indebted for their fupport, to the cook, and that worthy perfonage, whom they have dignified with the title of Pimp. Thefe gentlemen contrive to play into each other's hands. The first, by his high foups and rich fauces, prepares the way for the occupation of the other; who having reduced the patient by a proper exercife of his art, returns him back again to go through the fame regimen as before. We may therefore fuppofe, that the culinary arts are no less ftudied here than at White's or Pontac's. True geniufes in cating will continually strike out new improvements: but I dare fay, neither Braund nor Lebeck ever made up a more extraordinary dish, than. I once remember at the Caftle. Some bloods being in company with a celebrated fille de joye, one of them pulled off her thoe, and in excess of gallantry filled it with Champagne, and drank it off to her health. In this delicious draught he was immediately pledged by the reft, and then, to carry the compliment ftill further, he ordered the fhoe itself to be dressed and ferved up for fupper. The cook fet himself feriously to work upon it; he pulled the upper part (which was of damask) into fine fhreds, and toffed it up in ragout; minced the fole; cut the wooden heel into very thin flices, fried them in batter, and placed them round the dish for garnish. The company, you may be fure, teftified their affection for the lady by earing very heartily of this exquifite impromptù: and as this tranfaction happened just after the

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French king had taken a cobler's coats. However, the odorous effluvia

daughter for his mistress, Tom Pierce (who has the file as well as art of a French cook) in his bill politely called it, in honour of her name, De foulier à la Murphy.

Taverns, Mr. Town, feem contrived for the promoting of luxury; while the humbler chop-houses are designed only to fatisfy the ordinary cravings of nature. Yet at these you may meet with a variety of characters. At Dolly's and Horfeman's, you commonly fee the hearty lovers of a beef-fteak and gill of ale; and at Betty's, and the chophoufes 'about the inns of court, a pretty maid is as inviting as the provisions. In these common refectories you may always find the jemmy attorney's clerk, the prim curate, the walking physician, the captain upon half-pay, the shabby valet de chambre upon board wages, and the foreign count or marquis in difhabille, who has refufed to dine with a duke or an ambaffador. At a little eating-houfe in a dark alley behind the 'Change, I once faw a grave citi zen, worth a plumb, order a two-penny mefs of broth with a boiled chop in it: and when it was brought him, he fcooped the crumb out of an halfpenny roll, and foaked it in the porridge for his prefent meal; then carefully placing the chop between the upper and under cruft, he wrapped it up in a checked handkerchief, and carried it off for the mor row's repast.

I fhall leave it to you, Sir, to make farther reflections on this fubject, and fhould be glad to dine with you at any tavern, dive with you into any cellar, take a beef-steak in Ivy-Lane, a mutten-chop behind St. Clement's, or (if you chule it) an extempore faufage or black-pudding over the farthing fries at Moor-Fields. Your humble fervant, PYE-CORNER.

MR. TOWN!

T. SAVOURY,

BY Jove, it is a fhame, a burning fhame, to fee the honour of Eng land, the glory of our nation, the greatest pillar of life, ROAST BEEF, utterly banifhed from our tables. This evil, like many others, has been growing upon us by degrees, It was begun by wickedly placing the Beef upon a fide-table, and fcreening it by a parcel of queue-tail'd fellows in laced waist

generally affected the smell of every true Briton in the room. The butler was fatigued with carving: the mafter of the houfe grew pale, and fickened at the fight of thofe juicy collops of fat and lean, that came fwimming in gravy, and (moking moft delicioufy under our noftrils. Other methods therefore were to be purfued. The Beef was ftill ferved up, but it was brought up cold, It was put upon a table in the darkelt part of the room, and immured between four walls formed artificially by the fervants with the hats of the company. When the jellies and flip flops were coming in, the Beef was carried off in as fecret a manner, as if it had gone through the ceremonies of concoction. But ftill, Sir, under all these difadvan, tages, we had a chance of getting a flice as it paffed by. Now, alas! it is not fuffered to come up ftairs. I dare sav, it is generally banished from the iteward's table; nor do I fuppofe, that the pow dered foormen will touch it, for fear of daubing their ruffles. So that the difh that was ferved up to the royal tables, the difh that was the breakfast of Queen Elizabeth and her maids of honour, the difh that received the dignity of knighthood from King James the Firft, is now become the food only of fcullions and fable-boys. In what words can I vent my refentment upon this occafion; efpecially when I reflect, that innovations feldom come alone? Toafted cheese is already buried in rammekins: plumb-porridge has been long banished: I tremble for plumbpudding. May we not live to fee a leg of pork detefted as carrion? and a fhoulder of mutton avoided as if it were horfe flefh? Our only hopes are in the Clergy, and in the Beef-fteak Club. The former ftill preserve, and probably will preferve, the rectitude of their appetites; and will do juftice to Beef, wherever they find it. The latter, who are compofed of the most inges artists in

the kingdom, meet every Saturday in

a noble room at the top of Covent-Garden theatre, and never fuffer any difh except Beef Steaks to appear. These, indeed, are moft glorious examples:

but what, alas! are the weak endeavours of a few to oppofe the daily inroads of fricatlees and foup-maigres ! This, Mr. Town, is a national concern, as it may prove more destructive

to

to Beef than the diffemper among the to enforce the love of Beef by act of horned cattle: And should the modish parliament.

averfion against rumps and furloins continue, it will be abfolutely neceffary

Yours,

GOLIAH ENGLISH.

THE

N° XX. THURSDAY, JUNE 13, 1754.

NON UMBRE ALTORUM NEMORUM, NON MOLLIA POSSUNT

PRATA MOVERE ANIMUM.

NO RURAL CHARMS HER JOYLESS MIND CAN MOVE,"
THE VERDANT MEADOW, OR THE LOFTY GROVE.

HE ladies of the prefent age are frangely altered from the unpolifhed females, who flouri hed in the days of Romance. What modern Partheniffa would not prefer a tall young

fellow to the most beautiful dwarf in the univerfe, dr a coach and fix to a white palfrey? The fair damfels of old were chiefly to be found in woods and forefts; but our prefent heroines are diftinguished by an utter averfion to the country, and would as foon be confined by a giant in an enchanted cattle, as immared with old maiden aunts in the family manfion houfe. Nothing is more dreadful to our ladies of quality than the approach of fummer: for what woman of fpirit would chufe to leave the town to wander in folitudes and defarts; or what pleasure can the long days give to our fine ladies, when the pretty creatures are confcious, that they look beft by candle light? The general complaint against the country is want of amufement, or want of company: but thefe common inconveniences are trifles in comparison to the fufferings of the poor lady, who wrote the following letter, which was communicated to me with leave to make it public,

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DEAR LADY CHARLOTTE,

Have been plagued, peftered, teazed

wits, ever fince I have been in this odious country, O my dear, how I long to be in town again? Pope and the poets may talk what they will of their parting ftreams, fhady groves, and flowery meads: but I had rather live all my days among the cheesemongers fhops in Thames Street, than pafs fuch another fpring in this filthy country. Would you believe it? I have scarce touched a card fince I have been here: and then there has been fuch ado with

VIRG.

us about election matters, that I am ready to die with the vapours: fuch a rout with their hiffing and hollowing, my head is ready to split into a thousand pieces! If my Sir John must be in pare liament, why cannot he do as your lord does, and be content with a borough, where he might come in without all this trouble, and take his feat in the house, though he has never been within an hundred miles of the place.

Our house, my dear, has been a perfe&t inn ever fince we came down; and I have been obliged to trudge about as much as a fat landlady. Our doors are open to every dirty fellow in the county. that is worth forty fhillings a year; all my best floors are fpoiled by the hob nails of farmers fumping about them; every room is a pig-ttye; and the Chinese paper in the drawing room tinks fo abominably of punch and tobacco, that it would frike you down to come into it. If you knew what I have fuffered, you would think I had the conftitution of a washerwoman to go through itl We never fit down to table without a dozen or more of boisterous two-legged creatures as rude as bears; and I have nothing to do but to heap up their plates, and drink to each of their healths. What is worse than all, one of the beafts got tipfy, and nothing

which I was forced to fubmit to for fear of lofing his vote and interest. Would you think it, dear Charlotte?do not laugh at nie-I ftood godmother in perfon to a huge lubberly boy at a country farmer's, and they almoft poifoned me with their hodge podge they called candle, made of four ale and brown fugar. All this and more I have been obliged to comply with, that the country fellows might not fay, my lady is proud and above them.

Befides,

Befides, there is not a woman creature within twenty miles of the place, that is fit company for my houfekeeper; and yet I must be intimate with them all. Lady B** indeed is very near us; but though we are very well acquainted in town, we must not be feen to speak to each other here, because her lord is in the oppofition. Poor Thomas got a fad drubbing at her houfe, when I innocently fent him at my first coming into the country with a how d'ye to her ladyfhip. The greateft female acquaintance I have here, are Mrs. Mayorefs, a taylor's wife, and. Mrs. Alderman Gafcoigne, who fells pins and needles on one fide of the fhop, while her husband works at his pettle and mortar on the other. Thefe ordinary wretches are constant attendants on my tea-table; I am obliged to take them and their brats out an airing in my coach every evening; and am afterwards often doomed to fit down to whift and swabbers, or one and thirty boneace for farthings. Mrs. Mayorefs is a very violent party-woman; and the has two pug-dogs; one of which the calls Sir John, and the other Colonel, in compliment you must know to my husband and his brother candidate.

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We had a ball the other day; and I opened it with Sir Humphry Chafe, who danced in his boots, and hobbled along for all the world like the dancing bears, which I have seen in the streets at London. A terrible mistake happened about precedence, which I fear will lofe Sir John a good many votes. An attorney's wife was very angry, that her daughter, a little pert chit just come from the boarding-fchool, was not called out to dance before Mifs Norton the brewer's daughter, when every body knew (the faid) that her girl was a gentlewoman

bred and born.

I wish, my dear, you were to fee my dreffing-room; you would think it was a ribband-fhop. Lettice and I have been bufy all this week in making up knots and favours; and yesterday no milliner's prentice could work harder than I did, in tying them on to the fweaty hats of country bumkins. And is it not very hard upon me? I must not even drefs as I pleafe; but am obliged to wear blue, though you know it does not fuit my complexion, and makes me look as horrid as the witches in Macbeth.

But what is worse than all, Sir John tells me, the el tion expences have run fo high, that he must shorten my allowance of pin-money. He talks of turning off half his fervants; nay, he has even hinted to me, that I fhall not come to town all the winter. Barbarous creature!-But if he dares ferve me fo, he fhall pofitively lofe his election next time; I will raife fuch a spirit of oppofition in all the wives and daughters in the county against him. I am your affectionate friend, &c.

This lady's cafe is, indeed, very much to be pitied: but as Sir John has had the good luck to gain his point after a strong oppofition, he will doubtlefs be fenfible of the great fhare his lady had in his fuccefs. For my own part, when I confider the vast influence which the fair fex muft naturally have over my fellowcountrymen. I cannot help looking on their interesting themselves in these matters as a very ferious affair. What fuccefs must a fine lady meet with on her canvafs! No gentleman to be fure could be fo rude or fo cruel, as to refufe fuch a pretty beggar any thing the should afk; and an honeft country farmer, who could withstand any other arguments, might be coaxed and wheedled, or bribed with a fmile, into voting against his confcience. Many inftances have been found, during the late elections, of husbands who have been forced to poll as their wives would have them; and I know a young fellow, that was brought over to give a vote against his inclination by his fweetheart, who refufed to receive his addreffes, if he did not change his party.

It may not perhaps be too bold an affertion, that half the members in the prefent parliament owe their feats to the direct or indirect influence of the other fex. It would therefore be highly proper for the legiflature to provide against this evil for the future; and I hope, before the next general election, to fee among the Votes the following refolution,

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N° XXI. THURSDAY, JUNE 20, 1754.

STUDEO, BULLATIS UT MIHI NUGIS

PAGINA TURGESCAT, DARE PONDUS IDONEA FUMO,

PERSIV

A TALE IN SOUNDING PHRASE I STRIVE TO TELL,
WITH POMPOUS TRIFLES THAT MY PAGE MAY SWELL:
THAT WORDY TRAPPINGS THE THIN SENSE MAY CLOKE,
AND ADD IMAGINARY WEIGHT TO SMOKE.

TOUASSOUW,
QUASSOUW, the fon of Kqvuf-

tain over the Sixteen Nations of Caffraria. He was defcended from N'oh and Hingu oh, who dropt from the moon; and his power extended over all the Kraals of the Hottentots.

This prince was remarkable for his prowess and activity: his fpeed was like the torrent, that rushes down the precipice; and he would overtake the wild afs in her fight his arrows brought down the eagle from the clouds; the lion fell before him, and his launce drank the blood of the rhinoceros. He fathomed the waters of the deep, and buffeted the billows in the tempelt: he drew the rock-fish from their lurking holes, and rifled the beds of coral. Trained from his infancy in the exercife of war, to wield the Haffagaye with dexterity, and break the wild bulls to battle, he was a stranger to the foft dalliance of love; and beheld with indifference the thick-lipped damfels of Gongeman, and the flat-nofed beauties of Hauteniqua.

As Tquaffouw was one day giving inftructions for fpreading toils for the elk, and digging pitfalls for the elephant, he received information, that a tyger prowling for prey was committing ravages on the Kraals of the Chamtouers. He fnatched up his bow of olive-wood, and bounded, like the roe-buck on the ⚫ mountains, to their affistance. He arrived juft at the inftant when the enraged animal was about to fatten on a virgin, and aiming a poifoned arrow at his heart, laid him dead at her feet. The virgin threw herself on the ground, and covered her head with duft, to thank her deliverer: but when the rofe, the prince was dazzled with her charms. He was ftruck with the gloffy hue of her complexion, which thone like the jetty down on the black hogs of Heffaqua: he was ravifhed with the preft

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griftle of her nofe; and his eyes dwelt

of her breafts, which defcended to her navel.

Knonmquaiha, (for that was the virgin's name) was daughter to the Kouquequa or leader of the Kraal, who bred her up with all the delicacy of her fex. She was fed with the entrails of goats, the fucked the eggs of the oltrich, and her drink was the milk of ewes. After gazing for fome time upon her charms, the prince in great tranfport embraced the foles of her feet; then ripping the beast he had just killed, took out the caul, and hung it about her neck, in token of his affection. He afterwards ftripped the tyger of his skin, and sending it to the Kouquequa her father, demanded the damfel in marriage,

The eve of the full moon was ap pointed for the celebration of the nuptials of Tquaffouw and Knonmquaiha. When the day arrived, the magnificence, in which the bridegroom was arrayed, amazed all Caffraria. Over his fhoulders was caft a Kroffe, or mantle of wild cat-fkins; he cut fandals for his feet from the raw hide of an elephant; he had hunted down a leopard, and of the spotted fur formed a fuperb cap for his head; he girded his loins with the inteftines; and the bladder of the beaft he blew up, and fastened to his hair.

Nor had Knonmquaiha been less employed in adorning her perfon. She made a varnish of the fat of goats mixed with foot, with which the anointed her whole body, a as fhe ftood beneath the rays of the fun: her locks were clotted with melted greafe, and powdered with the yellow duft of Buchu: her face, which fhone like the polished ebony, was beautifully varied with spots of red earth, and appeared like the fable curtain of the night befpangled with stars: fhe fprinkled her limbs with wood

afhes,

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