The English gentleman from Ancona gave us much information regarding the Jews of that city. He thought that there were about 4000 there, or nearly one-fifth of the whole population, which is 24,000. They are scrupulous about engaging in business on their Sabbath, and as fair in their dealings as any in the town. At Lent and Good Friday, they are shut up in their houses; and their quarter of the town is called ghetto, as at Rome. There are other oppressions to which they are subjected; yet still they continue in the town, because they make money, the native population being stupid and indolent. They are not allowed to visit casinos, nor to buy land; but many of them have villas. Mr. Lewis Way spent six or eight months there, and often visited their synagogues. Most of the young men are deists, and devoted to the world. It is said that occasionally Roman Catholics get hold of their children and baptize them, and then they must be brought up as Christians.

We afterwards mounted up a steep path to the north of Genoa, and came upon a fine view of the Ligurian Hills. A lovely valley watered by a rivulet lay beneath, the hills on all sides terraced for vines. Villages were scattered here and there, and six churches were in sight. At six in the evening, we bade farewell to Genoa. It is a lovely town, but the shadow of death rests upon it. Popery reigns undisturbed, holding all in chains.

(April 26.) Early this morning, we cast anchor in the harbour of Leghorn. The morning was misty and rainy. unlike the sky of Italy, and the town appeared flat and cheerless. Sailing up a canal into the heart of the town, we soon after found ourselves comfortably settled in the San Marco Albergo, a hotel kept by a Scotsman, Mr. D. Thomson, well known to us for the kindness which he showed to our countryman, Rev. Mr. Martin, minister of St. George's, Edinburgh, during his last illness. He and Mrs. Thomson received us most cordially, and we found their house a home indeed. Hearing that Leghorn was a free port, we thought that it might be free to receive the gospel; and accordingly, without reserve, gave tracts to each of the eight men who carried up our luggage, and to some bystanders. Scarcely, however, had an hour elapsed, when an officer appeared at the inn, making inquiry if we were the persons who had been distributing books. Our box of books and tracts, and our bag of Hebrew books, were immediately sealed up

LEGHORN-REV. MR. MARTIN.

21

and carried off, and the two elder members of the Deputation summoned to appear before the Commissary of Police without delay. After a long examination, it was decided that the books and tracts be sent to the Censor at Florence, and that until his report be made, we be dismissed.

Sitting at table in the afternoon, Mr. Thomson gave us some particulars of Mr. Martin's death. He had said, that he wished to die at home, or if not at home, in such a house as this, for his own father kept an inn, and it reminded him of home. The Sabbath before he died, when told that it was Sabbath, he said, "Yes, this is the day that the Lord hath made;" and turning to Mr. Thomson, "This is your communion-you will tell me at night what you hear." In the beginning of the week he asked Mr. T. to read to him. He read John xiv., and had scarcely finished the chapter, when he asked, “What is a free port?" On its being explained: "Is there any difficulty, then, in landing 100 Bibles?" This was among the last things he said. His desire was complied with. Another interesting case occurred here, of a young man named Kennedy from Glasgow, travelling for his health, and who had been visiting Rome. He was thoughtless in the extreme; but his gay companion, on leaving him said, that now he had better turn to his Bible. This remark led him to the Scriptures. When he arrived at Leghorn, he seemed to undergo a complete change of heart, and died here full of peace and joy.

We had an opportunity the following day of visiting the English Cemetery. It is filled with many beautiful monuments of the purest marble, and is kept like a garden, profusely planted with the rose, the cypress, and the weeping willow. We visited the graves of Smollett and Horner, at a little distance from which, a palm-tree guides to the spot where the remains of Mr. Martin are laid. There is a plain marble monument over the grave, with an inscription written by Dr. Chalmers. The tomb of J. Wentworth Murray, who died at Florence in 1821, has this simple inscription, full of meaning to surviving friends, "For a small moment have I forsaken thee, but with great mercies will I gather thee."

Leghorn is a flourishing commercial port, visited annually by 300 ships from Britain alone, but the state of religion is very low. There is a handful of Swiss and German Protestants; but not a single instance has oc

22

LEGHORN-POPERY.

curred of a native Italian openly renouncing Popery One reason for this may be found in the law of the country, which strictly forbids apostasy from the Romish faith. And another reason, no less powerful, is to be found in the licentiousness of Protestants in Italy. The English in that country are generally gay and dissolute, regardless of all religion. One of the most profligate Italian towns is Florence, and the English residents take the lead in dissipation. Hence it has become an almost universal impression, that Protestantism is the way to infidelity.

It is to be feared, that a great number of the young Romish priests are infidels at heart, and many are great gamblers. On the other hand, some appear to be conscientious men, and exemplary in their lives, and several private persons of their community seem to be really Christians. The sincere priests preach most vehemently against prevailing vices. We were told of one who a few days before, preaching against breaking the Sabbath, spoke in this way: "Some of you will say, I have a dispensation from the Bishop or from the Pope; but I say this is the word of God, and the Bishop or the Pope is nothing to the word of God." We heard of another priest who began with the sins of the government, and then spoke of the sins of the priesthood in a most severe manner. He said, "Ye should be the light of the world, and what are ye but darkness? Ye should be the salt of the earth, and what are ye but salt without savour, ruining your own souls and the souls of others?"

The priesthood in Italy are in a great measure losing their hold upon the people, and confession is greatly neglected. We were told of a priest a fortnight before, who preached to the people, that it was lawful for a wife in certain circumstances to steal from her husband; if he was a spendthrift and neglected her, she should take what she needed. On being afterwards asked by a Protestant gentleman how he could preach such doctrines to the people, and if it would not be better that the wife should tell her case to the church? "The church!" said the priest; "they care as much for the church as you do."

We heard of another priest preaching in this manner: "Confession is so neglected among you, that you are a mockery to the Jews. A Jew the other day missed some money: he knew that none but a Catholic had been near him, so he went and charged him with it. The man denied having touched the money. Well,' said the Jew,

LEGHORN-SABBATH IN ITALY.

23

when do you go to confession? Confession!' said the Italian, 'I never confess,' 'Ah, then,' said the Jew, ‘I will never see my money again.""

If any thing is done to overthrow Popery in Italy, it must be done through the priesthood; for if books are introduced among the people without their knowledge, they soon find it out, their jealousy is set on fire, and their enmity increased. We heard here, that many of the Romish Clergy have expressed great joy at the spread of Puseyism in England.

During the time of our visit, the canonization of four new saints expected shortly to take place at Rome, engrossed much of the public conversation. At Monte Nero, three miles from town, there is a famous shrine of the Madonna, to which pilgrimages are made at all times. The Dominicans lately found an image of the Virgin there, which has brought their order into great repute. When the Pope visited Leghorn several years ago, the great square of the town presented a scene worthy of being noticed. An immense multitude crowded the square to excess. The Pope appeared, and all fell on their knees. His holiness then stood over the kneeling multitude and pronounced his benediction. It was one of those scenes which irresistibly led the spectator to the prophetic words regarding the Man of Sin, "He, as God, sitteth in the temple of God, shewing himself that he is God."*

We spent the Jewish Sabbath in making acquaintance with some intelligent Jews, of whose information we hoped to avail ourselves in the beginning of the week. On our own Sabbath (April 28) we attended service at the English Chaplaincy. In the evening, Dr. Black preached in the hotel, in the large room, next that in which Mr. Martin died, to a numerous audience, chiefly of our own countrymen. All the day long, the town was full of bustle and gaiety. The ringing of bells, and the music of the military, dissipated the Sabbath stillness. Popery has abolished the fourth commandment, as effectually as it has done the second. Instead of teaching "Remember the Sabbath-day to keep it holy," they teach by precept and by example, "Remember to keep holy the festivals."

2 Thess. ii. 4.

In the Italian Catechism, composed by order of Clement VIII. entitled "Dottrina Christiana breve," republished at Rome 1838, which we bought at Civita Vecchia, these words are given instead of the fourth commandment, "Ricordati di santificare le Feste."

24

LEGHORN-JEWISH SYNAGOGUE.

In passing along the streets to the Chaplaincy, we observed with a shudder criminals at work cleaning the streets, chained one to another, and having their crimes stamped upon their backs. One was marked, “Furto violento" (robbery); another, “Uxorcidio" (killing his wife); another, “Omicidia in rissa" (manslaughter in a quarrel).

On Friday evening, and frequently during our stay, we visited the synagogue. It is a large handsome building, and reckoned the finest in Europe, with the exception of that of Amsterdam. There are two galleries for women, one above the other, the lattice-work of which is beautiful. The place of the ark is lined with variegated marble; the door veiled with a curtain of black velvet, flowered with silver, and having a motto from the Psalms. The reading-desk is also of marble: the velvet cloth bearing the motto, "The law of the Lord is perfect, converting the soul." There were perhaps 500 Jews present, but few seemed to take any interest in the service. Close by the ark stood two Orientals, dressed in eastern costume, venerable men, with long grey beards, lately come from Jerusalem. Many came to them to kiss their hand, and get it laid upon their head. Others also gave this benediction.

Near the two Easterns, stood another Jew of some eminence from Saloniki. Jews from Greece, Barbary, Turkey, Syria, and Arabia, are often here, as we learned from an English Jew whom we met in the synagogue. At the door, for the first time we observed the box for alms, having the word (tsedaka), "alms," over it, and another with this inscription än ba¬ p¬, that is— "For the land of Israel, let it (the temple) be built and erected speedily in our days."

The whole population of Leghorn in 1835, including the suburbs, was 76,397, and the Jews at that time in all Tuscany were reckoned at 6486. Now (1839), in Leghorn alone there are 9000 or 10,000 Jews, some of them among the most wealthy men in the land. They have much influence over the government, and most of them are very liberal in their religious opinions.

From the printed statistics of the Tuscan States, we gathered the following facts. "The Papal States having discouraged the Jews, they have flocked into Tuscany. The Duke of Tuscany granted land to the Jews