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MR. SPECTATOR,

Τ

IT happened lately, that a friend of

mine, who had many things to buy for his family, would oblige me to walk with him to the fhops. He was very nice in his way, and fond of having every thing fhewn, which at first made me very unealy; but as his humour still continued, the things which I had been ftaring at along with him, began to fill my head, and led me into a fet of amufing thoughts concerning them.

I fancied it must be very furprising to any one who enters into a detail of fashions, to confider how far the vanity of mankind has laid itself out in drefs, what a prodigious number of people it maintains, and what a circulation of money it occafions. Providence in this cafe makes use of the folly which we will not give up, and it becomes inftrumental to the fupport of those who are willing to labour. Hence it is that fringe inakers, lace-men, tire-women, and a number of other trades, which would be useless in a fimple state of nature, draw their fubfiftence; though it is feldom feen that fuch as these are extremely rich, because their original fault of being founded upon vanity, keeps them poor by the light inconftancy of it's nature. The variablenefs of fashion turns the stream of bufinefs, which flows from it, now into one channel, and anon into another; fo that the different fets of people fink or flourish in their turns by it.

From the fhops we retired to the tavern, where I found my friend exprefs fo much fatisfaction for the bargains he had made, that my moral reflections (if I had told them) might have paffed for a reproof; fo I chofe rather to fall

in with him, and let the difcourfe run

upon the use of fafhions.

Here we remembered how much man is governed by his fenfes, how livelily he is ftruck by the objects which appear to him in an agreeable manner, how much cloaths contribute to make us agreeable objects, and how much we owe it to ourselves that we should apfo. pear

We confidered man as belonging to focieties; focieties as formed of different ranks; and different ranks diftinguished by habits, that all proper duty or relpect might attend their appearance.

We took notice of feveral advantages which are met with in the occurrences of converfation: how the bashful man has been fometimes fo raised, as to exprefs himself with an air of freedom, when he imagines that his habit introduces him to company with a becoming manner; and again, how a fool in fine cloaths fhall be fuddenly heard with attention, till he has betrayed himflf; whereas a man of sense appearing with, a drefs of negligence fhall be but coid-' ly received, till he be proved by time, and established in a character. Such things as thefe we could recollect to have happened to our own knowledg fo very often, that we concluded the author had his reafons, who advises his fon to go in drefs rather above his fortune than under it.

At last the fubje&t feemed fo confide:able, that it was propofed to have a repofitory built for fashions, as there age chambers for medals and other rarities. The building may be fhaped as tha which ftands among the pyramids, the form of a woman's head. may be railed upon pillars, whole orva

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ments fhall bear a just relation to the defign. Thus there may be an imitation of fringe carved in the bafe, a fort of appearance of lace in the frieze, and a reprefentation of curling locks, with bows of ribbon floping over them, may fill up the work of the cornifh. The infide may be divided into two apart ments appropriated to each fex. The apartments may be filled with fhelves, on which boxes are to stand as regularly as books in a library. These are to have folding doors, which being opened, you are to behold a baby dreffed out in fome fashion which has flourished, and standing upon a pedestal, where the time of it's reign is marked down. For it's farther regulation, let it be ordered, that every one who invents a fashion fhall bring in his box, whofe front he may at pleasure have either worked or painted with fome amorous or gay device, that, like books with gilded leaves and covers, it may the fooner draw the eyes of the beholders. And to the end that thefe may be preferved with all due care, let there be a keeper appointed, who fhall be a gentleman qualified with a competent knowledge in cloaths; fo that by this means the pace will be a comfortable fupport for fome beau who has spent his cftate in dreffing.

The reafons offered by which we expected to gain the approbation of the public, were as follow.

First, That every one who is confiderable enough to be a mode, and has any imperfection of nature or chance, which it is potible to hide by the advan. tage of cloaths, may, by coming to this repofitory, be furnished herfelf, and furnish all who are under the fame misfortune, with the most agreeable manner of concealing it: and that on the other fide, every one who has any beauty in face or fhape, may alfo be furnished with the molt agreeable manner of fhewing it.

Secondly, That whereas fome of our young gentlemen, who travel, give us great reafon to fufpect that they only go abroad to make or improve a fancy for drefs, a project of this nature may be a means to keep them at home, which is in effect the keeping of fo much money in the kingdom. And perhaps the balance of fashion in Europe, which now Jeans upon the fide of France, may be fo altered for the future, that it may

become as common with Frenchmen to come to England for their finishing ftroke of breeding, as it has been for Englishmen to go to France for it.

Thirdly, Whereas several great scholars, who might have been otherwise ufeful to the world, have spent their time in ftudying to defcribe the dreffes of the ancients from dark hints, which they are fain to interpret and fupport with much learning; it will from henceforth happen, that they fhall be freed from the trouble, and the world from ufelefs volumes. This project will be a registry, to which pofterity may have recourfe, for the clearing fuch obfcure paffages as tend that way in authors; and therefore we shall not for the future fubmit ourselves to the learning of etymology, which might perfuade the age to come, that the farthingale was worn for cheapnefs, or the furbelow for warmth.

Fourthly, Whereas they who are old themselves, have often a way of railing at the extravagance of youth, and the whole age in which their children live; it is hoped that this ill-humour will be much fuppreffed, when we can have recourse to the fashions of their times, produce them in our vindication, and be able to fhew that it might have been as expensive in Queen Elizabeth's time only to wash and quill a ruff, as it is now to buy cra vats or neck-handkerchiefs.

We defire also to have it taken notice of, that because we would shew a particular refpect to foreigners, which may induce them to perfect their breeding here in a knowledge which is very proper for pretty gentlemen, we have conceived the motto for the house in the learned language. There is to be a picture over the door with a looking. glafs and a dreffing-chair in the middle of it: then on one fide are to be feen, above one another, patch-boxes, pincufhions, and little bottles; in the other, powder-bags, puffs, combs, and brushes; beyond thefe, fwords and fine knots, whofe points are wooden, and fans almoft clofed, with the handles downward, are to stand out interchangeably from the fides, until they meet at the top, and form a femicircle over the reit of the figures: beneath all, the writing is to run in this pretty founding man

ner:

Adefte

Adefte, O quotquot funt, Veneres, Gratia,
Cupidines,

En vobis adfunt in promptu
Faces, vincula, fpicula;

Hinc eligite, fumit, regite.

be prefented in the first place; but as that fect, with relation to drefs, is almost extinct, it will, I fear, be abfolutely neceffary to take in all timefervers, properly fo deemed; that is,

All ye Venus's, Graces, and Cupids, attend: fuch as, without any conviction of con

See prepar'd to your hands
Darts, torches, and bands:

Your weapons here chufe, and your empire extend.

I am, Sir, your most humble fervant,

A. B.

The propofal of my correfpondent I cannot but look upon as an ingenious method of placing perfons (whofe parts make them ambitious to exert themfelves in frivolous things) in a rank by themfelves. In order to this, I would propofe that there be a board of directors of the fashionable fociety; and because it is a matter of too much weight for a private man to determine alone, I should be highly obliged to my correfpondents if they would give in lifts of perfons qualified for this truft. If the chief coffee-houses, the converfations of which places are carried on by perfons, each of whom has his little number of followers and admirers, would name from among themselves two or three to be inferted, they fhould be put up with great faithfulness. Old beaus are to

fcience or view of intereft, change with the world, and that merely from a terror of being out of fashion. Such alfo, who from facility of temper, and too much obfequioufnefs, are vicious against their will, and follow leaders whom they do not approve, for want of courage to go their own way, are capable perfons for this fuperintendency. Thofe who are loth to grow old, or would do any thing contrary to the course and order of things, out of fondness to be in fafhion, are proper candidates. To conclude, thofe who are in fashion without apparent merit, must be fuppofed to have latent qualities, which would appear in a poft of direction; and therefore are to be regarded in forming thefe lifts. Any who fhall be pleafed according to thefe, or what farther qualifications may occur to himfelf, to fend a lift, is defired to do it within fourteen days after this date.

N.B. The place of the phyfician to this fociety, according to the last-mentioned qualification, is already engaged.

N° CCCCLXXIX. TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9.

DARE JURA MARITIS.

HOR. ARS POET. VER. 398.

TO REGULATE THE MATRIMONIAL LIFE.

T

MANY are the epiftles I every day difhonour, age, fickness, impatience, or

receive from husbands, who complain of vanity, pride, but above all ill-nature, in their wives. I cannot tell how it is, but I think I fee in all their letters that the caufe of their uneafinels is in themselves; and indeed I have hardly ever obferved the married condition unhappy, but for want of judgment or temper in the man. The truth is, we generally make love in a tie, and with fentiments very unfit for ordinary life: they are half theatrical, half romantic. By this means we raise our imaginations to what is not to be expected in human life; and because we did not beforehand think of the creature we are enamoured of, as subject to

fullennefs, but altogether confidered her as the object of joy, human nature itself is often imputed to her as her particular imperfection or defect.

I take it to be a rule proper to be ob- . ferved in all occurrences of life, bus more especially in the domeftic or matrimonial part of it, to preferve always a difpofition to be pleafed. This cannot be fupported but by confidering things in their right light, and as nature has formed them, and not as our own fancies or appetites would have them. He then who took a young lady to his bed, with no other confideration than the expectation of fcenes of dal liance, and thought of her (as I faid 6 E

before)

before) only, as he was, to adminifter to the gratification of delire; as that defire flags, will, with her fault, think her charms and her merit abated: from hence must follow indifference, dislike, peevishnels, and rage. But the man who brings his reafon to fupport his, pation, and beholds what he loves, as liable to all the calamities of human life both in body and mind, and even at the belt what must bring upon him new cares and new relations; fuch a lover, I fay, will form himself accordingly, and adapt his mind to the nature of his circumitances. This latter perfon will be prepared to be a father, a friend, an advocate, a steward for people yet unborn, and has proper affections ready for every incident in the marriage ftate. Such a man can hear the cries of children with pity instead of anger; and when they run over his head, he is not difturbed at their noife, but is glad of their mirth and health, Tom Trufty has told me, that he thinks it doubles his attention to the inolt intricate affair he is about, to hear his children, for whom all his cares are applied, make a noife in the next room: on the other fide, Will Sparkih cannot put on his periwig, or adjust his crayat at the glass, for the noise of thofe damned nurses and fqualling brats; and then ends with a gall int reflection upon the comforts of matrimony, runs out of the hearing, and drives to the chocolatehouse.

According as the husband is difpofed in himself, every circumstance of his life is to give him torment or pleasure, When the affection is well placed, and fupported by the confiderations of duty, honour, and friendship, which are in the highest degree engaged in this alliance, there can nothing rife in the cominon courfe of life, or from the blows, or fa vours of fortune, in which a man will not find matters of fome delight, upknown to a fingle condition.

He who fincerely loves his wife and family, and studies to improve that af fection in himself, conceives pleasure from the most indifferent things; while the married man, who has not bid adieu to the fashions and falfe gallantries of the town, is perplexed with every thing around him. In both thefe cafes men cannot, indeed, make a filier figure, than in repeating fuch pleafares and pains to the rest of the world; but I fpeak of them only, as they fit upon

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thofe who are involved in them. As I vifit all forts of people, I cannot indeed but mile, when the good lady tells her husband what extraordinary things the child poke fince he went out. No longer than yesterday I was prevailed with to go home with a fond husband; and his wife told him, that his fon, of his own head, when the clock in the parlour struck two, faid, Papa would come home to dinner pretently. While the father has him in a rapture in his arms, and is drowning him with kiffes, the wife tells me he is but just four years old. Then they both struggle for him, and bring him up to me, and repeat his obfervation of Two o'clock. was called upon, by looks upon the child, and then at me, to lay fomething; and I told the father, that this remark of the infant of his coming home, and joining the time with it, was a certain indication that he would be a great hiftorian and chronologer. They are nei ther of them fools, yet received my compliment with great acknowledgment of my prefcience. I fared very well at dinner, and heard many other notable fayings of their heir, which would have gigen very little entertainment to one leis turned to reflection than I was: but it was a pleafing fpeculation to remark on the happiness of a life, in which, things of no moment give occafion of hope, felf- fatisfaction, and triumph. On the other hand, I have known an ill-natured coxcomb, who has hardly improved in any thing but bulk, for want of this difpofition, Gilence the whole family as a fet of filly women and children, for recounting things which were really above his own capacity.

When I fay all this, I cannot deny but there are perverfe jades that fall to men's lots, with whom it requires more. than common proficiency in philofophy to be able to live. When these are joined to men of wann spirits, withoutTM“ temper or learning, they are frequently corrected with ftripes; but one of our famous lawyers is of opinion, that this ought to be ufed iparingly; as I remember, thofe are his very words: but as it is proper to draw fome fpiritual use out of all afflictions, I fhould rather recommend to thofe who are visited with women of fpirit, to form themfelves for the world by patience at home. Socrates, who is by all accounts the un doubted head of the feet of the hen

pecked,

pecked, owned and acknowledged that he owed great part of his virtue to the exercife which his useful wife constant ly gave it. There are feveral good in ftructions may be drawn from his wife anfwers to the people of lefs fortitude than himself on her fubject. A friend, with indignation, afked how fo good a man could live with fo violent a creature? He obferved to him, That they 'who learn to keep a good feat on horfe'back, mount the least manageable they can get; and when they have mastered 'them, they are fure never to be dif comfited on the backs of steeds lefs 'rettive.' At feveral times, to different perfons, on the fame fubject, he has faid My dear friend, you are be 'holden to Xantippe, that I bear fo 'well your flying out in a difpute. To another My hen,clacks very much, but the brings me chickens. They 'that live in a trading ftreet, are not ' disturbed at the paffage of carts. I would have, if poffible, a wife man be contented with his lot, even with a fhrew; for though he cannot make her better, he may, you fee, make himself better by her means...

But, instead of purfuing my design

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of difplaying conjugal love in it's natural beauties and attractions, I am got into tales to the difadvantage of that ftate of life. I must fay, therefore, that I am verily perfuaded that whatever is delightful in human life, is to be enjoyed in greater perfection in the married, than in the fingle condition. He that has this paffion in perfection, in occa fions of joy can fay to himfelf, befides his own fatisfaction How happy this • will make my wife and children!* Upon occurrences of diftiefs or danger can comfort himself But all this while my wife and children are fafe." There is fomething in it that doubles fatisfactions, because others participate them; and difpels afflictions, becaufe others are exempt from them. All who are married without this relifh of their circumftance, are in either a taftelefs ins dolence and negligence, which is hardly to be attained, or elfe live in the hourly repetition of tharp anfwers, eager up. braidings, and distracting reproaches. In a word, the married state, with and without the affection fuitable to it, is the compleatest image of heaven and hell we are capable of receiving in this life.

T

N° CCCCLXXX. WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10.

TH

RESPONSARE CUPIDINIBUS, CONTEMNERE HONORES,
FORTIS, ET IN SEIPSO TOTUS TERES, ATQUE ROTUNDUS..

HOR. SAT. VIE. L. 2. VER. 85.

WHO'S PROOF AGAINST THE CHARMS OF VAIN DELIGHT:
WHOM FIEBLE FORTUNE STRIVES IN VAIN TO WOUND,
SO CLOSELY GATHER'D IN A PERFECT ROUND.

HE other day looking over thofe old manufcripts, of which I have formerly given fome account, and which relate to the character of the mighty Pharamond of France, and the clofe friendship between him and his friend Eucrate; I found among the letters which had been in the cultady of the latter, an epiftle from a country gentle. man to Pharamond, wherein he excufes himself from coming to court. The gentleman, it seems, was contented with his condition, had formerly been in the king's fervice; but at the writing the following letter, had, from leifure and reflection, quite another sense of things

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