shall have an eye to the diet of this great | of this kingdom do still keep up the taste of city, and will recommend the best and most wholesome food to them, if I receive these proper and respectful notices from the sellers, that it may not be said hereafter my readers were better taught than fed. No. 148.] Tuesday, March 21, 1709. Gustus elementa per omnia quærunt, Nunquam animo pretiis obstantibus- Juv. their ancestors; and it is to this that we in a great measure owe the unparalleled victories that have been gained in this reign: for I would desire my reader to consider, what work our countrymen would have made at Blenheim and Ramillies, if they had been fed with fricacies and ragouts. For this reason we at present see the florid complexion, the strong limb, and the hale constitution, are to be found chiefly among the meaner sort of people, or in the wild gentry, who have been educated among the woods and mountains. Whereas many great families are insensibly fallen off from the athletic constitution of their progenitors, and are dwindled away into a pale, sickly, spindle-legged generation of valetudinarians. a glass of spirits; and when I have seen a young lady swallow all the instigations of high soups, seasoned sauces, and forced meats, I have wondered at the despair or tedious sighing of her lovers. The rules among these false delicates, are to be as contradictory as they can be to nature. Without expecting the return of hunger, they eat for an appetite, and prepare dishes not to allay, but to excite it. From my own Apartment, March 20. HAVING intimated in my last paper, that I design to take under my inspection the diet of this great city, I shall begin with a very earnest and serious exhortation to all my well-disposed readers, that they would return to the food of their forefathers, and re- I may perhaps be thought extravagant in concile themselves to beef and mutton. my notion; but I must confess, I am apt to This was that diet which bred the hardy impute the dishonours that sometimes haprace of mortals who won the fields of Cressy pen in great families to the inflaming kind of and Agincourt. I need not go up so high as diet which is so much in fashion. Many the history of Guy Earl of Warwick, who dishes can excite desire without giving is well known to have eaten up a dun cow strength, and heat the body without nourof his own killing. The renowned King ishing it; as physicians observe, that the Arthur is generally looked upon as the first poorest and most dispirited blood is most who ever sat down to a whole roasted ox, subject to fevers, I look upon a French (which was certainly the best way to pre-ragout to be as pernicious to the stomach as serve the gravy;) and it is further added, that he and his knights sat about it at his round table, and usually consumed it to the very bones, before they would enter upon any debate of moment. The Black Prince was a professed lover of the brisket; not to mention the history of the surloin, or the institution of the order of beef-eaters, which are all so many evident and undeniable marks of the great respect which our warlike predecessors have paid to this excellent food. The tables of the ancient gentry of this nation were covered thrice a day with hot roast-beef; and I am credibly informed, by an antiquary, who has searched the registers in which the bills of fare of the court are recorded, that, instead of tea and bread and butter, which have prevailed of late years, the maids of honour in Queen Elizabeth's time, were allowed three rumps of beef for their breakfast. Mutton has likewise been in great repute among our valiant countrymen, but was formerly observed to be the food rather of men of nice and delicate appetites, than those of strong and robust constitutions. For which reason, even to this day, we use the word sheep-biter as a term of reproach, as we do a beef eater in a respectful and honourable sense. As for the flesh of lamb, veal, chicken, and other animals under age, they were the invention of sickly and degenerete palates, according to that wholesome remark of Daniel the historian, who takes notice, that in all taxes upon provisions, during the reigns of several of our kings, there is nothing mentioned besides the flesh of such fowl and cattle as were arrived at their full growth, and were mature for slaughter. The common people They admit of nothing at their tables in its natural form, or without some disguise. They are to eat every thing before it comes in season, and to leave it off as soon as it is good to be eaten. They are not to approve any thing that is agreeable to ordinary palates; and nothing is to gratify their senses, but what would offend those of their inferiors. I remember I was last summer invited to a friend's house, who is a great admirer of the French cookery, and (as the phrase is). eats well. At our sitting down, I found the table covered with a great variety of unknown dishes. I was mightily at a loss to learn what they were, and therefore did not know where to help myself. That which stood before me I took to be a roasted porcupine; however, I did not care for asking questions; and have since been informed, that it was only a larded turkey. I afterwards passed my eye over several hashes, which I do not know the names of to this day; and hearing that they were delicacies, did not think fit to meddle with them. Among other dainties, I saw something like a pheasant, and therefore desired to be helped to a wing of it; but to my great sur prise, my friend told me it was a rabbit, | reason, persons of studious and contemplative natures, often entertain themselves with the history of past ages, or raise schemes and conjectures upon futurity. For my own part, I love to range through that half of eternity which is still to come, rather than look on that which is already run out; because I know I have a real share and interest in the one, whereas all that was transacted in the other can only be matter of curiosity to me. Upon this account, I have been always very much delighted with meditating on the soul's immortality, and in reading the several notions which the wisest of men, both ancient and modern, have entertained on that subject. What the opinions of the greatest philosophers have been, I have several times hinted at, and shall give an account of them from time to time, as occasion requires. It may likewise be worth while to consider, what men of the most exalted genius, and elavated imagination, have thought of this matter. Among these, Homer stands up as a prodigy of mankind, that looks down upon the rest of human creatures as a species be neath him. Since he is the most ancien heathen author, we may guess from his re lation, what were the common opinions in his time concerning the state of the sou after death. The desert was brought up at last, which, in truth, was as extraordinary as any thing that had come before it. The whole, when ranged in its proper order, looked like a very beautiful winter-piece. There were several pyramids of candied sweetmeats, that hung like icicles, with fruits scattered up and down, and hid in an artificial kind of frost. At the same time, there were great quantities of cream beaten up into a snow, and near them little plates of sugar-plumbs, disposed like so many heaps of hail-stones, with a multitude of congelations in jellies of various colours. I was indeed so pleased with_the_several objects which lay before me, that I did not care for displacing any of them, and was half angry with the rest of the company, that, for the sake of a piece of le-amendment of the living. mon-peel, or a sugar-plumb, would spoil so pleasing a picture. Indeed, I could not but smile to see several of them cooling their mouths with lumps of ice, which they had just before been burning with salts and peppers. As soon as this show was over I took my leave, that I might finish my dinner at my own house for as I in every thing love what is simple and natural, particularly so in my food, two plain dishes, with two or three good-natured, cheerful, ingenuous friends, would make me more pleased and vain, than all that pomp and luxury can bestow. For it is my maxim, "That he keeps the greatest table, who has the most valuable company at it. " Ulysses, he tells us, made a voyage to the regions of the dead, in order to consult Tiresias how he should return to his own country, and recommend himself to the fayour of the gods. The poet scarce introduces a single person, who doth not suggest some useful precept to his reader, and designs his description of the dead for the Ulysses, after having made a very plenteous sacrifice, sat him down by the Pool of Holy Blood, which attracted a prodigious assembly of ghosts of all ages and conditions, that hovered about the hero, and feasted upon the streams of his oblation. The first he knew was the shade of Elpenor, who, to show the activity of spirit above that of body, is represented as arrived there long before Ulysses, notwithstanding the winds and seas had contributed all their force to hasten his voyage thither. This Elpenor (to inspire the reader with a detestation of drunkenness, and at the same time with a religious care of doing proper honours to the dead) describes himself as having broken his neck in a debauch of wine; and begs Ulysses, that, for the repose of his soul, he would build a monument over him, and perform funeral rites to his memory. Ulysses, with great sorrow of heart, promises to fulfil his request, and is immediately diverted to an object much more moving than the former. The ghost of his own mother, Anticlea, whom he still thought living, appears From my own Apartment, March 29. to him among the multitudes of shades that A MAN who confines his speculations to surrounded him, and sits down at a small the time present, has but a very narrow pro-distance from him by the Lake of Blood, vince to employ his thoughts in. For this without speaking to him, or knowing who No. 152.] Thursday, March 30, 1710. he was. Ulysses was exceedingly troubled | count of her birth and family." This scene at the sight, and could not forbear weeping of extraordinary women seems to have been as he looked upon her: but being all along designed by the poet as a lecture of morality set forth as a pattern of consummate wisdom, to the whole sex, and to put them in mind he makes his affection give way to prudence, of what they must expect, notwithstanding and therefore, upon his seeing Tiresias, does the greatest perfections, and highest honours not reveal himself to his mother till he had they can arrive at. consulted that great prophet, who was the occasion of this his descent into the empire of the dead. Tiresias having cautioned him to keep himself and his companions free from the guilt of sacrilege, and to pay his devotions to all the gods, promises him a safe return to his kingdom and family, and a happy old age in the enjoyment of them. The circle of beauties at length disappeared, and was succeeded by the shades of several Grecian heroes who had been engaged with Ulysses in the siege of Troy. The first that approached was Agamemnon, the generalissimo of that great expedition, who, at the appearance of his old friend, wept very bitterly, and, without saying any thing The poet having thus with great art kept to him, endeavoured to grasp him by the the curiosity of his reader in suspense, re-hand. Ulysses, who was much moved at presents his wise man, after the dispatch of the sight, poured out a flood of tears, and his business with Tiresias, as yielding him- asked him the occasion of his death, which self up to the calls of natural affection, and Agamemnon related to him in all its tragical making himself known to his mother. Her circumstances; how he was murdered at a eyes were no sooner opened, but she cries banquet by the contrivance of his own wife, out in tears, "O, my son!" and inquires into in confederacy with her adulterer: from the occasions that brought him thither, and whence he takes occasion to reproach the the fortune that attended him. whole sex, after a manner which would be inexcusable in a man who had not been so great a sufferer by them. "My wife (says he) has disgraced all the women that shall Ulysses on the other hand desires to know what the sickness was that had sent her into those regions, and the condition in which she had left his father, his son, and more partic-ever be born into the world, even those who ularly his wife. She tells him, they were all three inconsolable for his absence. "And as for myself, (says she,) that was the sickness of which I died. My impatience for your return, my anxiety for your welfare, and my fondness for my dear Ulysses, were the only distempers that preyed upon my life, and separated my soul from my body." Ulysses was melted with these expressions of tenderness, and thrice endeavoured to catch the apparition in his arms, that he might hold his mother to his bosom, and weep over her. hereafter shall be innocent. Take care how you grow too fond of your wife. Never tell her all you know. If you reveal some things to her, be sure you keep others concealed from her. You, indeed, have nothing to fear from your Penelope, she will not use you as my wife has treated me; however, take care how you trust a woman. The poet, in this and other instances, according to the system of many heathen as well as Christian philosophers, shows, how anger, revenge, and other habits which the soul had contracted in the body, subsist and grow in it under its state of separation. This gives the poet occasion to describe the notion the heathens at that time had of I am extremely pleased with the companan unbodied soul, in the excuse which the ions which the poet in the next description mother makes for seeming to withdraw her- assigns to Achilles. "Achilles (says the self from her son's embraces, "The soul hero) came up to me with Patroclus and (says she) is composed neither of bones, Antilochus." By which we may see that it flesh, nor sinews, but leaves behind her all was Homer's opinion, and probably that of those incumbrances of mortality to be con- the age he lived in, that the friendships which sumed on the funeral pile. As soon as she are made among the living, will likewise Achilles inhas thus cast her burden, she makes her es- continue among the dead. cape, and flies away from it like a dream." quires after the welfare of his son, and of When this melancholy conversation is at his father, with a fierceness of the same chaan end, the poet draws up to view as charm-racter that Homer has every where exing a vision as could enter into man's imagi- pressed in the actions of his life. The nation. He describes the next who appear- sage relating to his son is so extremely beaued to Ulysses, to have been the shades of the tiful, that I must not omit it. Ulysses, after finest women that had ever lived upon the having described him as wise in council, and earth, and who had either been the daugh- active in war, and mentioned the foes whom ters of kings, the mistresses of gods, or mo- he had slain in battle, adds an observation thers of heroes; such as Antiope, Alcmena, that he himself had made of his behaviou Leda, Ariadne, Iphimedia, Eriphyle, and whilst he lay in the wooden horse. several others of whom he gives a catalogue, of the generals (says he) that were with us, with a short history of their adventures. either wept or trembled: as for your son, I The beautiful assembly of apparitions were neither saw him wipe a tear from his cheeks, On the contraall gathered together about the blood: or change his countenance. "Each of them (says Ulysses, as a gentle ry, he would often lay his hand upon his satire upon female vanity) giving me an ac- sword, or grasp his spear, as impatient to pas "Most employ them against the Trojans." He ful imagination, that had nothing to direct it This last circumstance of a deceased father's rejoicing in the behaviour of his son, is very finely contrived by Homer, as an incentive to virtue, and made use of by none that I know besides himself. The description of Ajax, which follows, and his refusing to speak to Ulysses, who had won the armour of Achilles from him, and by that means occasioned his death, is admired by every one that reads it. When Ulysses relates the sullenness of his deportment, and considers the greatness of the hero, he expresses himself with generous and noble sentiments. "O that I had never gained a prize which cost the life of so brave a man as Ajax! who, for the beauty of his person, and greatness of his actions, was inferior to none but the divine Achilles." The same noble condescension, which never dwells but in truly great minds, and such as Homer would represent that of Ulysses to have been, discovers itself likewise in the speech which he made to the ghost of Ajax on that occasion. "Oh, Ajax! (says he,) will you keep your resentments even after death? What destruction hath this fatal armour brought upon the Greeks, by robbing them of you, who were their bulwark and defence? Achilles is not more bitterly lamented among us than you. Impute not then your death to any one but Jupiter, who, out of his anger to the Greeks, took you away from among them. Let me intreat you to approach me; restrain the fierceness of your wrath, and the greatness of your soul, and hear what I have to say to you. Ajax, without making any reply, turned his back upon him, and retired into a crowd of ghosts. Ulysses, after all these visions, took a view of those impious wretches who lay in tortures for the crimes they had committed upon the earth, whom he describes under all the varieties of pain, as so many marks of divine vengeance, to deter others from following their example. He then tells us, that, notwithstanding he had a great curiosity to see the heroes that lived in the ages before him, the ghosts began to gather about him in such prodigious multitudes, and with such confusion of voices, that his heart trembled as he saw himself amidst so great a scene of horrors. He adds, that he was afraid lest some hidious spectre should appear to him, that might terrify him to distraction; and therefore withdrew in time. Bombalio, Clangor, Stridor, Taratantara, Murmur From my own Apartment, March 31 I HAVE heard of a very valuable picture, wherein all the painters of the age in which it was drawn, are represented sitting together in a circle, and joining in a concert of music. Each of them plays upon such a particular instrument as is the most suitable to his character, and expresses that style and manner of painting which is peculiar to him. The famous cupalo-painter of those times, to show the grandeur and boldness of his figures, hath a horn in his mouth, which he seems to wind with great strength and force. On the contrary, an eminent artist, who wrought up his pictures with the greatest accuracy, and gave them all those delicate touches which are apt to please the nicest eyes, is represented as tuning a theorbo. The same kind of humours runs through the whole piece. I have often from this hint imagined to myself, that different talents in discourse might be shadowed out after the same manner by different kinds of music; and that the several conversable parts of mankind in this great city might be cast into proper characters and divisions, as they resemble several instruments that are in use among the masters of harmony. Of these, therefore, in their order; and first of the drum. Your drums are the blusterers in conversation, that with a loud laugh, unnatural mirth, and a torrent of noise, domineer in public assemblies, overbear men of sense, stun their companions, and fill the place they are in with a rattling sound, that hath seldom any wit, humour, or good breeding in it. The drum, notwithstanding, by this boister ous vivacity, is very proper to impose upon the ignorant; and in conversation with ladies, who are not of the finest taste, often passes for a man of mirth and wit, and for wonderful pleasant company. I need not observe, that the emptiness of the drum very much contributes to its noise. The lute is a character directly opposite to the drum, that sounds very finely by itself, or in a very small concert. Its notes are exquisitely sweet, and very low, easily drowned in a multitude of instruments, and even lost among a few, unless you give a particular attention to it. A lute is seldom heard in a company of more than five,, whereas a drum will show itself to advantage in an assembly of five hundred. The lutanists, therefore, are men of a fine genius, uncommon reflection, great affability, and I question not but my reader will be esteemed chiefly by persons of a good taste, pleased with this description of a future who are the only proper judges of so destate, represented by such a noble and fruit-lightful and soft a melody. not signify an halfpenny to its instruction, or its welfare. Some have observed, that the northern parts of this island are more particularly fruitful in bagpipes. There are so very few persons who are masters in every kind of conversation, and can talk on all subjects, that I do not know whether we should make a distinct species of them: nevertheless, that my scheme may not be defective, for the sake of those few who are endowed with such extraordinary talents, I shall allow them to be harpsichords, a kind of music which every one knows is a concert by itself, The trumpet is an instrument that has in | it no compass of music, or variety of sound, but is, notwithstanding, very agreeable, so long as it keeps within its pitch. It has not above four or five notes, which are, however, very pleasing, and capable of exquisite turns and modulations. The gentlemen who fall under this denomination, are your men of the most fashionable education and refined breeding, who have learned a certain smoothness of discourse, and sprightliness of air, from the polite company they have kept; but at the same time have shallow parts, weak judgments, and a short reach of understanding; a play-house, a drawing-room, a ball, a visiting-day, or a ring at Hydepark, are the few notes they are masters of, which they touch upon in all conversations. The trumpet, however, is a necessary instrument about a court, and a proper enlivener of a concert, though of no great har-coffee-houses, feasts, and public tables. Í mony by itself. Violins are the lively, forward, importunate wits, that distinguish themselves by the flourishes of imagination, sharpness of repartee, glances of satire, and bear away the upper part in every concert. I cannot however, but observe, that when a man is not disposed to hear music, there is not a more disagreeable sound in harmony than that of a violin. There is another musical instrument, which is more frequent in this nation than any other; I mean your bass-viol, which grunibles in the bottom of the concert, and with a surly masculine sound strengthens the harmony, and tempers the sweetness of the several instruments that play along with it. The bass-viol is an instrument of a quite different nature to the trumpet, and may signify men of rough sense, and unpolished parts, who do not love to hear themselves talk, but sometimes break out with an agreeable bluntness, unexpected wit, and surly pleasantries, to the no small diversion of their friends and companions. In short, I look upon every sensible true born Briton to be naturally a bass-viol. As for your rural wits, who talk with great eloquence and alacrity of foxes, hounds, horses, quickset-hedges, and six-bar gates, double ditches, and broken necks, I am in doubt, whether I should give them a place in the conversable world. However, if they will content themselves with being raised to the dignity of hunting-horns, I shall desire for the future that they may be known by that name. As for your passing-bells, who look upon mirth as criminal, and talk of nothing but what is melancholy in itself, and mortifying to human nature, I shall not mention them. I shall likewise pass over in silence all the rabble of mankind, that crowd our streets, cannot call their discourse conversation, but rather something that is practised in imitation of it. For which reason, if I would describe them by any musical instrument, it should be by those modern inventions of the bladder and string, tongs and key, marrowbone and cleaver. My reader will doubtless observe, that 1 have only touched here upon male instruments, having reserved my female concert to another occasion. If he has a mind to know where these several characters are to be met with, I could direct him to a whole club of drums; not to mention another of bagpipes, which I have before given some account of in my description of our nightly The lutes may meetings in Sheer-Lane. often be met with in couples upon the banks of a crystal stream, or in the retreats of shady woods, and flowery meadows; which for different reasons are likewise the great resort of your hunting horns. Bass-viols are frequently to be found over a glass of stale beer, and a pipe of tobacco; whereas those who set up for violins, seldom fail to make their appearance at Will's once every evening. You may meet with a trumpet any where on the other side of Charing-cross. For That we may draw something for our advantage in life out of the foregoing discourse, I must intreat my reader to make a narrow search into his life and conversation, and upon his leaving any company, to examine himself seriously, whether he has behaved himself in it like a drum or a trumpet, a violin or a bass-viol; and accordingly, endea vour to mend his music for the future. I must not here omit the bagpipe species, my own part, I must confess, I was a drum that will entertain you from morning to night for many years; nay, and a very noisy one, with the repetition of a few notes, which are till having polished myself a little in good played over and over, with the perpetual company, I threw as much of the trumpet humming of a drone running underneath into my conversation as was possible for a them. These are your dull, heavy, tedious man of an impetuous temper; by which story-tellers, the load and burthen of con- mixture of different musics, I look upon my→ versations, that set up for men of impor- self, during the course of many years, to tance, by knowing secret history, and giving have resembled a tabor and pipe. I have an account of transactions, that, whether since very much endeavoured at the sweetthey ever passed in the world or not, dothness of the lute; but, in spite of all my reso |