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London they used to pay two shillings the first day, and twelve, or perhaps eighteen-pence a day, for as many days as they keep him, till the horse be brought home to the owner, and the passenger must either bring him back, or pay for the sending of him, and find him meat both going and coming. In other parts of England a man may hire a horse for twelve-pence the day, finding him meat, and bringing or sending him back; and if the journey be long, he may hire him at a convenient rate for a month or two. Likewise, carriers let horses from city to city, with caution that the passenger must lodge in their inn, that they may look to the feeding of their horse, and so they will for some five or six days journey let him a horse, and find the horse meat themselves for some twenty shillings. Lastly, these carriers have long covered waggons, in which they carry passengers from city to city; but this kind of journeying is so tedious, by reason they must take waggon very early, and come very late to their inns, as none but women and people of inferior condition, or strangers (as Flemmings with their wives and servants) used to travel in this sort.

"In Ireland, since the end of the civil war, some lords and knights have brought in coaches to Dublin, but they are not generally used, neither are there any to be hired, though the ways be most plain and generally good for coaches. They ride, for the most part, upon their own horses, but they are also to be hired for some twelvepence, or eighteen-pence the day, finding the horses meat, which in the stable will cost some twelve-pence each night, and at last little or nothing. In every city there be some known houses, where an ordinary is kept for diet, and beds may be had, and the ordinary is commonly twelve-pence each meal. By the way, in poor hamlets, at this time of peace, there be English houses, where is good lodging and diet, and where no such are, passengers must go to the houses of noblemen, gentlemen, and husbandmen, English, and Irish-English, where they cannot want entertainment in some good measure, these inhabitants much loving hospitality; but all other houses are full of filth and barbarousness. But there are not any inns in the very cities, which hang out bushes, or any signs, only some citizens are known, who will give stable and meat for horses, and keep a table where passengers eat at an ordinary, and some citizens have cellars, wherein they draw wine, if not all the year, yet as long as their wine lasts: but they have no taverns with ivy bushes or signs hung out, save only some few at Dublin.

"In Scotland a horse may be hired for two shillings the first day, and eight-pence the day until he be brought home, and the horse-letters used to send a footman to bring back the horse. They have no such inns as be in England, but in all places some houses are known, where passengers may have meat and lodging: but they have no bushes or signs hung out; and for the horses, they are commonly set up in stables in some out-lane, not in the same house where the senger lies. And if any man be acquainted with a townsman, he will go freely to his house, for most of them will entertain a stranger for his money. A horseman shall pay for oats and straw (for hay is rare in those parts) some eight-pence day and night, and he shall pay no

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less in summer for grass, whereof they have no great store. Himself at a common table shall pay about six-pence for his supper or dinner, and shall have his bed free; and if he will eat alone in his chamber, he have meat at a reasonable rate. Some twenty or thirty years ago the first use of coaches came into Scotland, yet were they rare even at Edinburgh. At this day, since the kingdoms of England and Scotland were united, many Scots, by the king's favour, have been promoted both in dignity and estate, and the use of coaches became more frequent, yet nothing so common as in England. But the use of horse-litters hath been very ancient in Scotland, as in England, for sickly men and women of quality.”

Our readers will be still more astonished at our present means of travelling, when we inform them, that about the year 1746, as we learn from the Chevalier Johnstone's History of the Rebellion, the stage coach was eighteen hours in travelling from London to Huntingdon, a distance of about fifty-nine miles: and that about twenty years later, when Epsom was in great repute, and consequently there was great demand for coaches between it and London, the stage took nearly a whole day for its journey, and the passengers dined in the road. From the lady, still living, who, gave us this information from her own knowledge, having resided all her life near the road from London to Epsom, we have learnt another curious proof of the improvement of this country within the last sixty years. In her youth she used to look forward with much pleasure to the quarter days, when the tenants dined at her father's house, because on these days only was she treated with a dish of potatoes!

In the second chapter of the sepulchres, monuments, and buildings in general, we find nothing particularly worthy of extract or notice: the third chapter treats of the geography, situation, fertility, traffic, and diet of Germany, Bremenland, and Switzerland. We extract the account of the German diet:

"The diet of the Germans is simple, and very modest, if you set aside their intemperate drinking; for as they are nothing sumptuous, but rather sparing in their apparel and household stuff, so they are content with a morsel of flesh and bread, so they have store of drink, and want not wood to keep their stoves warm. And in general, since they affect not foreign commodities, but are content with their own commodities, and are singular as well in the art as industry of making manual works, they easily draw to them and retain with them foreign coins. The free cities use to have always a year's provision of victuals laid up in public-houses, to serve for homely food for the people, in case the city should happen to be besieged. They commonly serve to the table sour cabbages, which they call crawt, and beer (or wine for a dainty) boiled with bread, which they call swoope. In Upper Germany they moreover give veal or beef in little quantities, but in Lower Germany they supply the meal with bacon

and great dried puddings, which puddings are savory and so pleasant, as in their kind of mirth they wish proverbially for Kurtz predigen, langeworsten, that is, short sermons and long puddings. Sometimes also they give dried fishes, and apples or pears first dried, then prepared with cinnamon and butter very savourily. They use many sauces, and commonly sharp, and such as comfort the stomach offended with excessive drinking; for which cause in Upper Germany the first draught commonly of wormwood wine, and the first dish of little lampreys, (which they call nine augen, as having nine eyes) served with white vinegar; and those that take any journey, commonly in the morning, drink a little brant wein, (that is, their aquavitæ,) and eat a piece of pfeffer kuchen, (that is, gingerbread) which useth to be sold at the gates of the city. They have a most delicate sauce (in my opinion) for roasted meats, of cherries sod and bruised, the juice whereof becomes hard like marmalade; but when it is to be served to the table, they dissolve it, with a little wine or like moisture. And as they have abundance of fresh fish in their ponds and rivers, so they desire not to eat them, except they see them alive in the kitchen, and they prepare the same very savourily, commonly using aniseeds to that purpose, especially the little fishes, whereof they have one most delicate kind, called smerling, which in Prussen I did eat, first choked, then sodden in wine, and they being very little, yet sixty of them were sold for nineteen grosh. The aforesaid sauce of cherries they thus prepare and keep; they gather a dark or blackish kind of cherry, and casting away the stalks, put them into a great cauldron of brass set upon the fire, till they begin to be hot; then they put them into a less cauldron full of holes in the bottom, and press them with their hands, so as the stones and skins remain in this cauldron; but the juice by the aforesaid holes doth fall into another vessel. Then again they set this juice upon the fire, continually stirring it, lest it should cleave to the bottom, and after two hours' space, they mingle with it the best kind of pears they have, first cut into very small pieces, and so long they boil it and continually stir it, till it wax hard, and notwithstanding the stirring begin to cleave to the vessel. This juice thus made like a marmalade, may long be preserved from moulding in this sort. They which desire to have it sweet, mix sugar with it, and others other things according to the taste they desire it should have. Then they put it into earthen pitchers, and if it begin at any time to wax mouldy, they put these pots into the oven, after the bread is baked and taken out. Also these pitchers must be close stopped, that no air may enter, and must be set where no sun or continual heat comes. Lastly, when they will make ready this sauce, they cut out a piece of the said juice, and mingle with it a little wine to dissolve it, (with vinegar, or sugar, or spices, according to their several appetites), and so boil it again some half hour.

"In Saxony, Misen, and those parts, they sometimes serve to the table a calf's head whole and undivided into parts, which to us strangers at the first sight seemed a terrible dish gaping with the teeth like the head of a monster, but they so prepare it, as I never remember to have eaten any thing that more pleased my taste. They

use not for common diet any thing that comes from the cow, neither have I observed them to have any butter in Saxony, or the lower parts of Germany, but they use a certain white matter, called smalts, instead of it, not tasting like our butter. They do not commonly eat any cheese, neither remember I that I ever tasted good cheese there, excepting one kind of little cheese made of goat's milk, which is pleasant to eat: but salt and strong cheeses they sometimes use to provoke drinking, for which purpose the least crumb is sufficient. These cheeses they compass round with thread or twigs, and they begin them in the midst of the broad side, making a round hole there, into which hole, when the cheese is to be set up, they put some few drops of wine, that it may putrify against the next time, when they eat the mouldy pieces and very creeping maggots for dainty morsels, and at last the cheese becomes so rotten and so full of these worms, that if the said binding that compasseth it chance to break, the cheese falls into a million of crumbs no bigger than motes. They have a kind of bread brownish and sourish, and made with aniseeds, which seemed very savoury to me. They serve, instead of a banquet, a kind of light bread like our fritters, save that it is long, round, and a little more solid, which they call fastnacht kuchen, Shrovetide baking, because then and upon St. Martin's day, and some like feasts, they use to make it. They use not in any place almost, to offend in the great number of dishes, only some few inns of chief cities give plentiful meals. And for the Saxons, they for the most part set on the pot or roast meat once for the whole week: yet in the golden bull they have a law, that hosts shall not serve in more than four dishes, the price of them to be set by the magistrate, and that they should not gain in the reckoning more than the fourth or at most the third penny, and that the guests should pay severally for their drink, the Germans drinking so largely as it was impossible to prescribe the rate thereof. It were to be wished by strangers, that not only drink should be paid for apart from meat, but that each man should pay the share himself drinks, and no more, so the charges of sober passengers in Germany, having all things reasonably cheap, would not in such measure increase, as otherwise they do through their companions intemperancy. The said Saxons set the dishes on the table one by one, for the most part gross meats, whereupon I have heard some merrily compare them to the tyrants of Sicily, of whom one being dead, still a more terrible monster succeeded him. Here and in these parts of the Lower Germany, they use to serve in sour crawt or cabbage upon a void circle of carved iron standing on three feet, under which they serve in one large dish, roast flesh and pullets, and puddings, and whatsoever they have prepared, which dish a countryman of mine did not unproperly compare to the ark of Noah, containing all kinds of creatures. Also in Saxony, for the first dish they serve in stewed cherries or prunes, then toasted or sodden pullets, or other flesh, and last of all bacon to fill his belly that hath not enough. Almost all their tables are round, and of so great a compass, as each dish being served one by one, (not as we use to have the table fully furnished with meat), they that sit at the corners of the table, are forced to stand on their feet as often as they

cut any meat. The Germans seldom break their fasts, except it be in journeys, with a little gingerbread and aquavitæ. They sit long at table, and even in inns as they take journeys, dine very largely, neither will they rise from dinner, till though slowly, yet fully they have consumed all that is set before them. And they cannot speak more reproachfully of any host, than to say; Ich hab mich da nicht satt gefressen, that is, I did not eat my belly full there: yea, at Berne, a city of Switzerland, they have a law, that in feasts they shall not sit more than five hours at the table. And at Basle, when doctors and masters take their degrees, they are forbidden by a statute, to sit longer at table, than from ten of the clock in the morning to six in the evening, yet when that time is past, they have a trick to cozen this law, be it never so indulgent to them, for then they retire out of the public hall into private chambers, where they are content with any kind of meat, so it be such as provoketh drinking, in which they have no measure, so long as they can stand or sit. Let the Germans pardon me to speak freely, that in my opinion they are no less excessive in eating, than drinking, save that they only protract the two ordinary meals of each day, till they have consumed all that is set before them, but to their drinking they can prescribe no mean nor end. I speak of their ordinary diet, especially at inns by the way as they travel in feasts their provision is rather full than sumptuous. At Leipsic, for mere curiosity, I procured myself to be initiated to a marriage feast, in one of the chief citizen's houses; the marriage was in the afternoon, and at supper they served in a piece of roasted beef hot, and another cold, with a sauce made with sugar and sweet wine; then they served in a carp fried, then mutton roasted, then dried pears prepared with butter and cinnamon, and therewith a piece of broiled salmon, then bloated herrings broiled, and lastly a kind of bread like our fritters, save that it is made in long rolls, and more dry, which they call fastnacht kuchen, that is, Shrovetide baking, together with cheese. And thus with seven dishes a senator's nuptial feast was ended, without any flocks of fowl, or change of fishes, or banquetting stuff, which other nations use, only was endless drinking, whole barrels of wine being brought into the stove, and set by us upon a table, which we so plied, as after two hours, no man in the company was in case to give account next morning, what he did, said, or saw, after that time. To nourish this drinking, they used to eat salt meats, which being (upon ill disposition of my body) once displeasing and unwholesome for me, and I complaining thereof to my host, he between jest and earnest replied, that the use of salt was commended in Scripture, alleging that text: Let all your speeches be seasoned with salt, and then said he, much more should our meats be thus seasoned. Salt thus pleaseth their pallet, because it makes the same dry, and provokes the appetite of drinking. For which cause also, when they meet to drink, as they dine with dried pork, and beef heavily salted, together with cheese sharp like that of Parma, so when the cloth is taken away, they have set before them, raw beans, waternuts, (which I did see only in Saxony), and a loaf of bread cut into shives, all sprinkled with salt and pepper, the least bit whereof will invite him to drink that hath least need. And

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