tumbled off the edge of it, bounding down the slope in great leaps. Luckily it was snowy, and not very hard falling. But the last great bound spun me through the air thirty feet, and landed me at full length on my left side, half buried in snow, on a spot where the slope was less steep, but uncomfortably near the edge of the gully and the precipice. I believe I fainted at that point. At any rate, it was a useful lesson, and not forgotten on the present occasion.

"As we tramped downwards, glorious lights and colours were playing upon that most beautiful of mountains-Haramuk. We longed to turn round, to linger, and to enjoy. The sun set behind the gap at Baramoula, sending its brilliant light sweeping over the Wular Lake and bathing Haramuk in glory. Our long shadows hurried before us apace, as though they would hasten towards the wondrous East. Gradually the valley was steeped in purple shadow, the snows lost their fiery tinge, and night came on apace.

"Was that the blue smoke of our camp-fire? Not long, and we were back in our tents, realising, as one does at the end of a real hard day, such content as is given to few, and to them but seldom in any lifetime.

"And over those drinks which are reserved for the faithful, we vowed that Kashmir is the country to visit, that mountain-climbing is a game worth the candle."

CHAPTER VI

FOURTEEN THOUSAND FEET HIGH

Yem Sar Pass - Marmots - In a House-boat

Srinagar-Suffering Moses-Shalimar Bagh-
Woman as a Traveller-In Camp Again-Native
Servants-Black Bears-NoLuck-Pine-martens.

CHAPTER VI

FOURTEEN THOUSAND FEET HIGH

The glaciers creep

Like snakes that watch their prey, from their far fountains,
Slowly rolling on; there, many a precipice
Frost and the sun in scorn of mortal power
Have piled-dome, pyramid, and pinnacle,

A city of death, distinct with many a tower
And wall impregnable of gleaming ice.

ALL

SHELLEY.

LL this time S. and I were getting no shooting, one of the reasons for which you will find in Colonel Ward's book on Kashmir. Against July, August, and September it is written that these months are the worst three in all the year for sport in that country, there being little else but bears to be had. There was just a chance of a bara singh, too. We decided to get away westward, back into the country near Soper, taking on our way Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir. Having come up the Sind Valley, we should see fresh country by going back down the Lidder Valley, and it was possible to cross from the head of the one to the other by the pass over Yem Sar, but this route is not to be recommended to any inactive individual.

We left Sonamerg on September 1st, and rode