44

WORSHIP OF CATTLE-VOYAGE.

the annual Hindoo festival of Mauttoo Pungul, or boiling At this season,

of rice, &c. to the honour of cattle. bullocks for draught or carriage, though not generally treated with kind consideration, have their horns fancifully painted and adorned with garlands. I saw a large herd of them collected into a circle, standing quite unconscious of the respect paid to them by a number of men who marched round them to the sound of the tarei, a long trumpet, and at intervals prostrated themselves on the ground, as though praying for remission of the guilt of their cruelties and ill usage at other times. It appeared to me, on this and similar occasions, that the people attach little or no meaning to their observances, but practise them chiefly because they are ancient and established usages. In the multiplicity of their ceremonies and objects of worship, they are "without God" so far as the heart and judgment are concerned.

Towards the close of the month of February, I had again the pleasure of seeing my colleague and companion in misfortune, Mr. Mowat. Mr. Lynch and he travelled by land from Madras to Negapatam,* on their way to Jaffna in Ceylon, where the annual meeting of the Wesleyan Missionaries of the Tamul district was to be held. Mr. Squance and myself joined the party, and having engaged a small vessel to convey us to Jaffna, we embarked on Wednesday, 21st February. The vessel was too small to allow of much comfort: my only accommodation was the deck, on which I slept during the night, wrapped up in a boat cloak; or, if awake, enjoyed the clear moonlight, and was soothed and amused by the song

* They performed the journey to Negapatam, on horseback: the exposure to heavy dews, to wet feet and legs from fording the rivers, and to the direct rays of the sun; with the other inconveniences and fatigues of such a journey, proved very detrimental to Mr. Mowat, who did not recover from the ill effects for several months.

of the helmsman, by which, in the softest tones of the Tamul language, he seemed to woo the wind. On Friday, the 23d, we landed at Kaites, and on the evening of the same day, proceeded in two small boats, up the shallow strait of the sea which divides the province of Jaffna from the rest of the Island of Ceylon; and arrived late at night in Jaffnapatam.

That regulation of Methodism, which requires the annual assembling of its ministers from different points of the same district, is of especial advantage in foreign lands. On most stations, the members of our societies are comparatively few; and the number of those who can enter into the feelings of a Missionary, assist his counsels, and solve his difficulties, is fewer still. If he were entirely debarred from personal intercourse with others of the same views and pursuits, he must be superior to the common infirmities of human nature, if his sympathies be not deadened, and the lively interest wherewith he commenced his labours, considerably weakened. The interchange of thoughts and counsels, therefore, and the opportunities of mutual addresses and prayers, on these occasions, which have their results in the freshness and vigour with which each Missionary returns to his station and his work, are advantages in my estimation as valuable as the professed object of a District Meeting, the transaction of public business.

We were affectionately received by our brethren in Jaffna, and by those from Point Pedro and Trincomallee. Mr. Mooyaart, one of the Magistrates, hospitably entertained Mr. Mowat and myself, during our stay of more than a fortnight.

After our meeting had closed, I passed an interesting day in visiting the stations of the American Missionaries, in the neighbourhood of Jaffnapatam. When the Portuguese had possession of the Island of Ceylon, a considerable

46

MISSIONS IN JAFFNA.

part of the province of Jaffna was nominally christian; parishes were formed, churches and parsonage houses were built of substantial materials, the natives were baptized and were required to attend public worship. The same system was partially continued under the Dutch Government; but when the English took possession of the Island, the people left to follow their own way, verged back to heathenism; and the churches and houses were allowed to go to ruin. To these buildings and people, the Governor of Ceylon directed the attention of the American Missionaries, when they arrived on the Island in 1816. At my visit, I found them industriously engaged in repairing both churches and houses, and in calling the attention of the natives about them, to the great truths of Christianity.

Their discipline is congregational: they place themselves at a station with no intention ever to remove: distant from any other society, they devote their time and attention exclusively to the natives; take as many children as they can support, into their own houses, to be educated in christian principles and general knowledge; and, when I saw them, expressed hopes of success, which have since been in some measure realized. Their characters and operations commanded my respect; and I heartily wished them good luck in the name of the Lord.

Our own Missionaries in Jaffna have been laborious, and God has blessed their exertions. When I was there, a society had been formed for some years: the congregations were numerous and respectable; and so great was the change that had taken place in the general character of the town since their arrival, that a gay visitor complained, that formerly there was music and dancing in every street, but now, wherever he went, there was singing and prayer. Subscriptions were then on foot towards the erection of a new Chapel, which has since been completed. An extensive establishment of Schools is connected with this Mission.

VOYAGE AND RETURN.

47

The prejudices of the heathen natives of Jaffna and its neighbourhood, are said to be weaker than those of the natives of Continental India; though their religion and ceremonies (in this northern part of Ceylon,) are substantially the same:* their regard for the distinctions of caste is trifling. The climate is good; the town neat and pleasing in appearance, and the people very affectionate.

But I was glad to leave it for my own scene of labour. We returned down the shallow strait of the sea, and embarked in the evening of the 12th March, to re-cross the straits, in a kalla dhoney, an open boat of about twenty feet long, and eight feet in breadth; over part of which a shed of palmyra leaves was constructed, to screen us from the heat of the day and the dews of the night.

The following morning, about two o'clock, I was awoke by the roaring of the wind and sea, and the violent motion of our little bark: the sky gathered blackness, the stars, our only guide, became obscured, the lightning flashed every two or three seconds, and there was every indication of a fearful storm. The native passengers seemed apprehensive of danger, and I heard them praying to their gods; but the seamen, natives also, kept their presence of mind, and managed the boat exceedingly well. In a short time it was necessary to take down one of our two sails: the sea rolled tremendously, often threatening to overwhelm us. We got several slight sprinklings of it, till at length a wave actually broke in upon us. The natives shrieked with terror: my mattress and clothes were entirely drenched, and my companions were not in much better circumstances. The seamen, however, attended to their duty: the wind moderated, and by sunrise the storm subsided, leaving us a favourable breeze which enabled us to make Negapatam at seven in the evening, when we landed, thankful for our

* Brahminical: in other parts of Ceylon, the system of Buddhu prevails.

preservation, and alive to the importance of the work before us.

Mr. Lynch proceeded immediately to Madras; but Mr. Mowat, whose delicate state of health required rest and medical advice, remained with me a fortnight.

CHAPTER VII.

APRIL 1821.

Delay in Negapatam-Preaching by interpretation— Musical Brahmin-Preparation for Journey-Trivoloor-Neddiamungulum-Heathen festival-Tanjore

Rajah-Mission-Kellycotta-Trichinopoly-Namcul

- Moonoochoudy - Salem- Ryacottah Character of Natives-Bangalore.

SOME doubts having been expressed in our District meeting, as to the preferableness of Bangalore to some other places of importance in the same direction, equally unoccupied by us; it was decided that one of the brethren in Madras and myself, should take a journey, for the purpose of ascertaining what place was most suitable as a residence, and most promising as a Mission station. I was advised from Madras, that Mr. Close would proceed from thence to Bangalore, and that I might meet him there at the end of April.

Mr. Squance being detained in Jaffna by family circumstances, I thought it best to wait his arrival before I left Negapatam, and to endeavour meantime to supply his place. In the Portuguese congregation, and in addressing