« AnteriorContinuar »
ceiving my attention directed that way, begins a to find it so. They presently joined us, having long tale about the dangers of that part, the un- ridden quick to their destination, and immediately tamed and savage character of the mountaineers, returned. Though my meditations had been and the extreme hazard of attempts to visit them: sweet, yet the sight of a friend and a brother, few travellers, in fact, venture there : but, seeing even after so short an absence, was to my weak that his account is not very congenial to my feels spirits very animating; and we immediately talkings at this moment, he has dropped his story. ed over with much vivacity and cheerfulness, all Close above my head, an Arab is come to spread that we had seen and felt. upon the ruins his tattered clothes, which he has We staid some time longer at the bath ; and just washed in the lake, that they may dry in the then, returning to Tiberias, sought out the Chris. sun: and, at a distance just perceivable, is another tian priest. He has under him from thirty to forty indolent peasant, sauntering by the water's edge, houses; and his church, which we visited, is by and singing at intervals a poor Arab song; which, them supposed to be built on the site of St. Peter's though not “most musicial,” has nevertheless the house. They are Greek Catholics, and under the charm of being “most melancholy.” But that " Terra Santa.” We furnished the priest with which awakens the tenderest emotions on viewing some sacred Scriptures ; but there was little zeal such a scene as this, is the remembrance of ONE, in him to receive them. who formerly so often passed this way; and never At the house of the consul, we produced to passed without leaving, by His words and actions, the Jews the Hebrew New Testament; but some memorial of His divine wisdom and love. neither was this very acceptable to them. I was Here, or in this neighborhood, most of His mighty especially struck to see the readiness with which works were done : and, in our daily religious ser- one youth showed to another, at once, the twenvices, we have read, with the most intense interest, tieth verse of the first chapter of St. Matthew : those passages of the gospel which refer to these he quickly found the passage, as one who had regions. However uncertain other traditionary been early instructed to deny the Messiah : they geographical notices may be, here no doubt inte were in our room: he read the passage with an rupts our enjoyment, in tracing the Redeemer's air of scorn, made his companion understand his footsteps. This, and no other, is the sea of Gali- meaning, and then threw the book down; on lee-in its dimensions, as I should judge, resem which they both departed. It seemed to me no bling exactly the size of the isle of Malta, about inapt illustration of the crime charged on the con. twenty miles in length, twelve in breadth, and sciences of the Jewish people by Stephen (Acts sixty in circumference. Here Jesus called the vii. 51.)“ Ye stiff-necked, and uncircumcised in sons of Zebedee, from mending their nets, to be heart and ears, ye do always resist the Holy Ghost: come fishers of men. Here he preached to the as your fathers did, so do ye.” Their will is, to multitudes crowding to the water's edge, himself have a man for their Messiah, not a divine person. putting off a little from the shore in Simon Peter's Truly, indeed, has St. Paul said (1 Cor. xii. 3.)boat. But there is not a single boat now upon “ No man, speaking by the Spirit of God, calleth the lake, to remind us of its former use. Yonder, Jesus accursed ; and no man can say that Jesus on the right, must have been the very spot, where, is the Lord, but by the Holy Ghost.” in the middle of their passage from this side to We feel ourselves greatly at a loss, in talking ward Bethsaida and Capernaum, the disciples to these misguided people. At supper, we sat were affrighted at seeing Jesus walk upon the water down with them, surrounded by Italian, Spanish, —where He gently upbraided the sinking faith of German, Hebrew, Rabbinical, and Arab tongues. Peter-where he said to the winds and waves ; Of these, the Italian was talked only by the aged Peace! be still: and the sweet serenity which now consul ; who is almost deaf, and apparently quite rests upon the surface is the very same stillness, indifferent to religious topics. Evidently, a miswhich then succeeded. Herc, finally, it was that sionary to the Jews should have, not only a very Jesus appeared, the third time after His resurrec- peculiar line of education, but he must give himtion, to His disciples, as is related by St. John self almost wholly to them. (chap. xxi.) and put that question to the zealous, Wednesday, Nov. 12, 1823.—After a very febackslidden, but repentant Peter-Simon, son of verish and wakeful night, I was quite unable to Jonas, lovest thou me ?-one question, thrice re- ride to the ruins of Capernaum: while Mr. Fisk peated; plainly denoting what the Saviour requires did this, I staid within doors the whole morning. of all, who profess to be His: and followed up He brings back a very meagre account, indeed, of by that solemn charge, Feed my lambs-Feed my the remains of that city; once exalted unto heasheep! While I gaze on the scene, and muse on ven, but now barely leaving a relic sufficient to the affecting records connected with it, faith in attest its former existence. He found Bethsaida, the gospel history seems almost realized to sight: also, existing in little more than the name. and, though I cannot comprehend that great mys
In the afternoon, we visited the synagogues of tery of Godliness—God manifest in the flesh; yet, Tiberias, and found them to be as follows :believing it, all my feelings of wonder and adora The first which we visited was about fifty feet tion are called into a more intimate exercise. square, and belonged to the Sephartim: very few
I was thus indulging in holy recollections, and persons were in it, at the time of our visit. Close expecting to prolong them fully another hour, my by its side is another, which is long, but very narspirits being greatly relieved by the stillness and row: we went from the one direct to the other; coolness of this short retirement; when the and found this second one quite ful, so that we guide, who reclined near me all the time, signified, had some difficulty in walking through it: the by the motion of his hand, that our companions Polish fur cap distinguishes these Jews from the were in view. I turned to look, and was pleased Spanish. The third synagogue, to which we were
taken, was called a college ; and is used also as a synagogue : behind it was a very small room, appropriated to the use of the women, having its Thursday, Nov. 13, 1823.—This morning we entrance from a different street: above the col- set off for Safet—the city set on a hill. Our road, lege, the upper floor consisted of two rooms, in for an hour, lay along the margin of the lake. To which we counted (by calculation) fifteen hundred the north of Tiberias, there are likewise some Hebrew books: those who conducted us, said that i ruins; which show the city anciently to have exthey had a great many in boxes; as inany, in all, tended beyond its present bounds, northward as as ten thousand. These three were all the syna. well as southward. gogues shown to us. I should add, however, the At length, having taken the last draught of domestic synagogue of the consul: in this, I cal water, which we were to taste for some hours, at culated about a thousand volumes.
a small streamlet which winds its way into the In the synagogue of the consul, his son-in-law, lake, we entered on a continued series of hills Rabbi Samuel
, was teaching two youths of the leading to Safet. As we ascended hill after hill, family. The rapid and vehement manner, in we had the scene of the lake fully beneath our which he communicated and they received his in- view; its southern half occasionally obscured by struction, was very striking. All spoke at the black clouds, discharging tremendously heavy rain. same time, with a high pitch of voice; scarcely | We feared lest our excursion should be spoiled, as allowing space to catch their breath; with distor- one minute's fall of such a storm would not have tions of countenance, and fashes of the eye al- left us a dry thread; happily, however, it did not most hysterical. It seemed to me, that, for the reach us. purpose of teaching absurd and false notions, this Our journey from Tiberias to Safet was ali on manner was very well adapted; as it gave no the ascent. When we were in the middle of it, time for thinking on what was learning : and we a keen north wind met us full in the face; "a know very well
, that when persons have once, nipping, and an eager air,” inspiring the lungs with much pains and self-sacrifice, learnt a great with new vigor, and making me for the time quite deal of trash, they rarely extricate their minds forget my late fever. from its injurious influence. They seem, in fact, to On reaching Safet, our guide, who is brother to lose the power of estimating the utility or inutility the lay superior of the Latins at Nazareth, and of different kinds of knowledge; and value their a native, manifested the greatest repugnance to own literary board, not because it is practically entering the quarter of the Jews: but as we had useful, but because it has been dearly paid for, and our object, we took our course thither; leaving because they possess a sort of property in it. him to find a place of rest elsewhere.
After The Sepha. ‘im speak Spanish: the Ashke- much delay, and many inquiries on both sides of nasim speak German, Polish, and Russian. All the streets, we reached the house of Rabbi Israel, intermingle a kind of Rabbinical jargon. Hebrew, one of the Perushim, and chief of that sect in Rabbinical Hebrew, and Arabic are, in various this place. He himself was gone to Jerusalem : degrees, spoken by them. From these data, a but his wife and son, and Baruch the shemas or missionary to the Jews may perceive what ac- deacon, welcomed us, and gave us the best room quirements are expedient for his work. At the in their house : it was, however, very wretched fewest, three languages appear to be essential and cold. -Spanish, German, and Hebrew; while, for a In the evening, some of the Jews called upon frequent traveller or stated resident in this country, us. One of them complained, most bitterly, of Arabic is indispensable.
the treatment which he had received at the last We were very much struck with the remarks festival of Succoth: he had brought it, indeed, on of the consul, in the evening, on the subject of himself; having gone to some excess in wine : a European protection. When he quitted his office Mohammedan Jaid to his charge the crime of at Aleppo, he procured a Firman from the Porte, blaspheming the Mohammedan religion; and, withgiving him the strongest protection for himself and out further witness or investigation, the governor all his dependants. “I wish,” said he, kindling ordered him for punishment; when he suffered, with a degree of animation, which proved that the or, (to use his own expressions, literally translatfeebleness of age had not extinguished the love of ed,) he ATE five hundred stripes of the bastinado: life, “I wish you could read Turkish, that I might “Ho mangiato cinque cento bastonate." Anoshow you my Firman; it is so strong; it cuts ther, more quiet, reminded him, that a soft tongue like a sword.” We could not but feel compassion breaketh the bone; and that it was his own loquafor the man, who, living in this land of wrongs, city, which had brought him into mischief, and clings to such a document as his sole security might do so again : but the injured man loudly against extortions, oppression, insults, and violence; maintained his right to have redress as a Russian which would otherwise, be heaped upon him by subject; and asked us, how his right might be every Turkish superior, wherever he might be. maintained : he has however, very little chance They, who breathe the air of liberty, and walk of this ; the agent for Russian subjects being an erect in open day, and at night retire to a home, Austrian vice-consul at Acre. They all complain which, however humble its dimensions, yet the of the severity to which they are liable from the common parlance of their country denominates ruling powers. their casTLE—such persons can ill comprehend, The number of Jewish families at this place, how or why it is, that, in Turkey, the sole gua- they stated at four hundred ; of which the Ash-rantee against the most unmerited imprisonments kenasim and Sephartim are in about equal numand exact ns, is a piece of parchment sealed with bers; that is, two hundred families of each. Since the signet of the Grand Seignior. Yet thus it is. the war in Turkey, few venture to come from
Poland, so that the Hebrew population is rather visit of ceremony to the governor. Thence we on the decrease. They said there were sixteen returned to the Jewish quarter, to examine as synagogues in the place; but they are so contra- many of the synagogues as our time would allow. dictory in their accounts, that this, the highest Of these, we visited five. Of the Hassidim, one account which they give, I suspect to be exagge- synagogue, and one maddras, or college: for, rated.
with this title, do they dignify a room, which will We produced the Hebrew Testament, with scarcely contain twenty persons, and which is which they seemed to be already acquainted, but filthy beyond expression; but, certainly, a few apfor which they manifested little good inclination. peared here to be in the very act of poring over
In the room which we occupied we counted Talmudical books. For the Perushim, there is five hundred books, all Hebrew; the library of one place, which is used both as synagogue and Rabbi Samuel.
maddras; and one other place, which has at least Friday, Nov. 14, 1823.---After a night of pierc- some pretensions to its title of maddras, as it ing cold, we rose to make some further examina- contains a thousand Hebrew volumes. Lastly, tion of the state of the town : but as we had to one synagogue of the Sephartim; this was by depart at noon, and dine previously, our remarks far the best and largest of the places which we were very rapid.
We were then under the necessity of closWe called on a Christian, who was in a miser- ing our researches, as it was high time to prepare able shop, and asked about their numbers in this for departure. place. There are a few, a very few Christians From the view which we had of the town when here; not strictly resident, but rather refugees on the castle, we judged, that if there are in the from Acre, Sour, and Saide. They are Greeks; Jewish quarter the number of families which they and they move about from place to place, exercis- state, namely, four hundred, there would be about ing different trades to gain a little money. Their one thousand Mohammedan houses : for, as they number had been stated to us, by the Jews, at occupy distinct quarters, it is easy to compare thirty or forty ; but we afterward were induced, their superficial area; the Jews, however, state from what we saw, to think that the tenth part of them at fifteen hundred families. The population that number might be nearer the truth. We sold of Safet might be stated, in round numbers, at and gave them two or three Arabic Psalters; to seven thousand souls. We observed four minawhich, however, we found it difficult to induce rets. them to pay much attention.
Owing to the steepness of the hill
, on the slope This is market-day, and we computed about of which some parts of Safet are built, the roofs five hundred persons, of different descriptions, of the lower houses form, in a degree, the pathstirring in the market.
way of passengers. A story is told which illusWe next ascended the castle-hill; and herc, trates the condition of such houses. A camel whatever disgust we had conceived from the nar once passing over such a path, the roof gave way; rowness and dirtiness of the streets and houses of and the camel falling into the house below, broke Safet, all was obliterated, by the magnificent pros- his leg. The owner of the house sued for dapect from this spot. Although the castle is in mages against the owner of the camel; and, vice ruins, yet part of it still affords a residence to the versa, the owner of the camel claimed from the governor : the extent of the walls, the perfect other the value of his animal, whose services condition of some parts of them, and the high were entirely lost to him. The sentence of the glittering towers visible to all the region round Turkish Cadi was given in favor of the owner of about, show that this must have been a spot often the camel ; on the plea, that the tenant of the contested in war. But that, which principally fills house knew that his roof was a public path-way, the mind, is a scene, which no puny powers of and ought therefore to have kept it in proper reman can either create or demolish. The view to pair to prevent the occurrence of such an accident. the south and on either side, comprehending about The story may be correct or not : it, however, one-third of the circle, presents the most surpris- sufficiently explains the state of many of the path ing assemblage of mountains, which can be con- ways in Safet. ceived. It is, if such an expression may be allowed, one vast plain of hills. To a distance of twenty or thirty miles toward Nazareth, and nearly the same toward Mount Tabor and Mount Her We departed at twelve o'clock; and, taking a mon, the farspreading country beneath is covered road more westerly than that by which we came, with ranges of mountains : which, having passed bent our steps toward Nazareth. That evening, over them, we knew to be ascents and descents after six hours' ride, we reached Hattyn; a small far from inconsiderable ; but which, from the village at the foot of the mountain, called the eminence of Safet, appear only as bold undulations Mount of the Beatitudes-Gebel et-Toobat. It of the surface of the earth. To the left, are the has one minaret. Here are about eighty houses; inhospitable and unvisited mountains eastward of of which ten are Greek Catholics’, and the rest the river Jordan. In the centre of the distant Mussulmans'. We rested at the house of the scene, appears the beautiful lake of Tiberias, fully principal Christian. He had only one room, in seen from one extremity to the other; and, in which he, his wife, their children, and some sick the back-ground, stretching beyond the utmost persons, were closely shut up; and in which he power of vision, are the Mountains of Gilead. offered us a place where to lay our heads: but On a clear day the view, in that direction, must we preferred to occupy a little mud hut adjacent, be more than forty miles.
the roof of which consisted of branches of trees, We descended from this elevated spot, to pay a admitting the bright rays of the moon. We gave
MOUNT OF THE BEATITUDES.
him some sacred Scriptures, as he said they were to it, where these words were uttered, not to seek all too poor to pay for them.
some collateral proof, which, however faint, might serve to illustrate the topography of the scene.
I have already alluded to the striking view from
this place, of Safet, the city set on a hill. But my Saturday, Nov. 15, 1823.-At early dawn we mind was more particularly led to trace the course set off from Hattyn, to ascend the Mount of the which our Saviour took after delivering this serBeatitudes. The road was steep, but very shady mon. If we compare the accounts given in Matand refreshing ; and, as we went, we read aloud thew viii. 1–13, Ma 13—19, and Luke vi. the first twelve verses of the fifth chapter of St. throughout, and vii. 1-10, we shall be led to Matthew, and the thirteenth chapter of the first judge that our Lord had been already preaching epistle to the Corinthians. Our minds were rais- at various towns in the region between Nazareth ed to the enjoyment of those heavenly truths. and Capernaum, the very region, which we are We could not but feel how infinitely inferior all now traversing. On the night previous to delithe maxims of sages and philosophers are, tovering the sermon on the Mount, He retired to a those brief and simple descriptions of the graces mountain to pray, and continued all night in of humility, meekness, gentleness, purity of heart, prayer to God: at day-break, He chooses His and patience of faith, hope, and love !
twelve disciples : He then descends into the plain, “Why is it," I asked, " that the very scenes and is surrounded by a great multitude of people, become endeared to us, as we read the portions who were continually thronging after Him: then of sacred Scripture relating to them ; so that they lifting up his eyes on His disciples, He commences are rendered much more lovely than mere scenery His discourse, with Blessed are ye poor, g-c. This could make them? My companion illustrated the is St. Luke's account, who does not mention our feeling of religious association aptly, by putting Lord's re-ascending a mountain previously to His the case of two amiable persons, * for both of beginning His discourse: which, nevertheless, from whom,” he said, “ we might conceive a very warm St. Matthew v. 1, we are led to infer that He did. affection ; but if one were pious, and the other “When he had ended all his sayings-he entered not, how far more congenial would our attachment into Capernaum.” (Luke vii. 1.) He descended, be to him, whose heart was one with ours in the therefore, from the Mount of the Beatitudes, tolove of God! He is, in the truest sense, our ward the Lake of Tiberias. Now from this very FRIEND—a friend, in common, with us, of God-a spot, there is a road, passing through a ravine, friend for eternity! We may know him only for direct to the Lake of Tiberias; and, from thence a short space of time on earth, but we shall know to the present site of Capernaum, the distance him hereafter for ever. So, to compare inanimate hence to the lake being about two hours and a things with spiritual, our attachment to this spot half. This ravine is the caravan road from Dais heightened by the remembrance of the divine mascus to the south. Although no absolutely discourses once uttered here; and which seem to certain evidence is deducible from this sketch, yet make it hallowed ground; there are other scenes we felt it heighten our interest in the scene, to equally or more lovely, in the various countries trace, as nearly as might be, with the gospels in which we have visited; but, to this, we are united our hand and the very country before us, every by a kind of religious endearment.”
step of our Lord's course. With such reflections we entered the plain of Considerably further on, we arrived at the spot, Galilee, at its east end. Being arrived at this where the Christian guides point out the cornelevated plain, we find that the Mount of Beati- field, in which the disciples rubbed the ears of tudes, which closes as it were a kind of barrier corn and ate of them on the Sabbath day. But on the east, is not on this side so high as on the here I felt, that, to particularize the precise posiother side it appeared to be. The plain, in fact, tion of a single field after a period of eighteen rises at the end by a gentle slope into two small hundred years, by exacting rather too much from hills, on either of which it is probable enough that my powers of belief, tends rather to weaken the our Saviour sat when He delivered the sermon on local enchantment. Here, however, the pilgrims, the Mount. They are nearly close together, and in their sacred route, are wont to halt, and read would take a person not more than five minutes the appropriate portion of the gospel: to which, to ascend them. The plain itself abounded in though we did it not, I make no objection, providflowers; and, although we were not able to say, ed they will allow me, as well as themselves, the that, among these, we could discern the lilies of the title and rank of pilgrim. From a distance the field to which our Saviour directed the thoughts tower of Sephoury was now distinguishable; and, of his hearers, yet my eye was particularly de- soon after, we reached Cana of Galilee. lighted by the sight of a flower not very common in England, the purple autumnal crocus. I have observed it flourishing, at this season, in every part of Mount Lebanon: and here, at this mo Cana is, at present, a very small and poor vilment, it was expanding its beautiful petals to as lage. With some difficulty we found out the bright a sun as ever lighted up the blue firma- Christian priest. We went with him to his church, ment. And if our Heavenly Father so clothe the in which he showed us, fixed in the wall, one (as grass of the field, will He not much more clothe he assured us) of those water-pots referred to in us? Have not we that same evidence of His St. John, ii. 6. This I relate because he said so, care, exhibited to our senses on this unexhausted not because I believed in it. On the walls are soil, which the apostles themselves had ? It was several Greek and Arabic inscriptions, recording impossible, supposing this to be the spot, or near the names of devout pilgrims to this place. But
CANA OF GALILEE.
my eye was suddenly attracted by the sight of regions of Ephraim. One of these passages Abyssinian characters, 10 the same effect : the would be the valley of Jezreel; and from the priest stated that this was written by an Abyssi- window of the khan where we are lodging, we nian priest about four years ago, who remained have a clear view of the tract over which the prohere twenty days: his name was Baba Moose : phet Elijah must have passed, when he girded up in the day time, he was constantly in the church, his loins, and ran before Ahab to the entrance of reading; and, at night, he slept in the church- Jezreel. But, in the present day, no chariots of yard, beneath a tree, under the shade of which Ahab or of Sisera are to be seen-not even a we rested to take some refreshment.
single wheel-carriage, of any description whatA small number of Christians gathered round ever. The public wells by the road-side have no us, with whom we conversed, and to whom we pulleys on wheels to assist in drawing water : sold and gave a few copies of the Scriptures. for who would expose for public use, what his The population they stated to be about thirty neighbor would have not the least scruple in sehouses Mussulman, and thirty houses Christian, of cretly stealing away? The roads among the the Oriental Greek church. The total number mountains are, indeed, so neglected—such mere accords with the appearance of the village. Evi- single foot-paths—that it is difficult to imagine in dence of the rite to which they belonged, we had what way chariots could now convey the traveller in a printed Greek paper, hanging up in the church, to Jerusalem, or over the chief part of the Holy signed by Polycarp, patriarch of Jerusalem, dated Land. 1816.
Arriving at Gennyn, we sought out the small body of Christians here. They have a priest,
and are of the Greek communion ; in number, With this village, now so inconsiderable, but seven or eight houses. Their quarters are ex where once the glory of the divine person of tremely mean; and we found much difficulty in Christ was manifested forth to his disciples, by gaining attention to our Arabic Scriptures. she the first miracle which he wrought, we closed our two principal Christians were sitting on the ground present excursion ; arriving at Nazareth, which with a gaming-board between them, playing at a seemed to us, for a moment, like a home, about favorite game of chance, with shells in the holes three o'clock in the afternoon.
of the board; and seemed to regard our visit as a troublesome intrusion.
RETURN TO NAZARETH.
PLAIN OF ESDRAELON.
NABLOUS, OR NAPOLOSE. Tuesday, Nov. 18, 1823.-We left Nazareth for Jerusalem.
Wednesday, Nov. 19, 1823.–We set off, con Our road, for the first three quarters of an hour, siderably before day-light, for Nablous. The air lay among the hills which lead to the plain of Es was extremely keen for the first two hours ; and, draelon ; upon which, when we were once de gradually, when the sun had risen, its burning scended, we had no more inconvenience, but rode heat came upon us, with a doubly-exhausting ef for the most part on level ground, interrupted by
fect. only gentle ascents and descents. This is that
It was about an hour after mid-day that we had "mighty plain"-reya rediov, as it is called by an
our first view of the city of Nablous, romantically cient writers—which, in every age, has been ce
situated in a deep valley, between the mountains lebrated for so many battles. It was across this of Ebal on our left and Gerizim on the right. plain, that the hosts of Barak chased Sisera and There is a kind of sublime horror in the lofty, his nine hundred chariots of iron : from Mount craggy, and barren aspect of these two mounTabor to that ancient river, the river Kishon, would tains, which seem to face each other with an air be directly through the middle of it. At present, of defiance;, especially as they stand contrasted there is peace; but not that most visible evidence with the rich valley beneath, where the city apof enduring peace and civil protection, a thriving pears to be embedded on either side in green gar. population. We counted, in our road across the dens and extensive olive-grounds-rendered more plain, only five very small villages, consisting of verdant, by the lengthened periods of shade which wretched mud-hovels , chiefly in ruins; and
very the two, Gerizim is not wholly without cultiva
they enjoy from the mountains on each side. Of few. persons moving on the road. We might again truly apply to this scene the words of De
tion. borah (Judges v. 6, 7.)— The highways were un
We had always been informed, that the facility occupied : the inhabitants of the villages ceased of passing by way of Nablous depended very much they ceased in Israel. The soil is extremely rich ; on the character of the governor of the city. Our and, in every direction, are the most picturesque
case was singular : for we had to learn, what views—the hills of Nazareth to the north—those kind of reception a city without a governor would of Samaria, to the south-to the east, the moun- give us ; the governor having, died this very tains of Tabor and Hermon—and Carmel, to the morning.. On coming within sight of the gate, south-west.
we perceived a numerous company of females,
who were singing in a kind of recitative, far from GENNYN.
melancholy, and beating time with their hands.
If this be mourning, I thought, it is of a strange About four o'clock in the afternoon, we arrived kind. It had indeed, sometimes, more the air of at the village of Gennyn, which is situated at the angry defiance. But on our reaching the gate, it entrance of one of the numerous vales which lead was suddenly exchanged for most hideous plaints out of the plain of Esdraelon to the mountainous I and shrieks, which, with the feeling that we were