children of Heth. I was particularly struck to observe that, though of these Sheiks the greater part consisted of Druses, known by their broadstriped dress, yet there were many Christians who joined in the funeral procession. The house of mourning seems, in every country, to be, in some measure, consecrated to the spirit of amity: there, religious antipathies are at least suspended, if not extinguished; and persons, who would not have thought of meeting in the same church, yet willingly assemble over one and the same

Whatever other fashions may have changed in the east-and yet we may truly believe that very few have varied-there is one still stationary, the sight of which carries us back to the remotest Scripture antiquity: I mean the fashion of splendid dresses. I had a full specimen of it this evening in the lady of the house. She produced from her wardrobe at least ten heavy outer garments, coats of many colors embroidered and spangled with gold and silver and flowers. I was weary with her showing them, at which she seemed surprised. There are some of them as old as the date of her marriage, some still older. They are only worn on great festivals, as Christmas, Easter, &c. when she sits in state to receive her friends, and hands coffee and a pipe to them. It is whimsical, however, to see how her splendid dresses are contrasted with her humble daily occupations: for, in the ordinary duties of the house, she is to be found sweeping out the kitchen, boiling the pot, &c. and

she eats her meals when her husband and his friends have finished, sitting on the ground with her children and servants at the parlor door; and such, generally, is the condition of females in eastern countries. She wears an infinity of braids, which hang down all the length of her back, and terminate in gold sequins, which, together with those that she wears on her head, may be worth from five to ten pounds sterling. The advice of St. Peter is quite forgotten in this land. The ornament of a meek and quiet spirit appears to be very little known; but the adorning of plaiting the hair, and of wearing of gold, and putting on of apparel, is most studiously retained. In fact, none can go to greater excess, in this particular, than the bishops and clergy themselves, who, on all high festivals, are decked in such gorgeous and almost effeminate robes, as must necessarily lead the fashion, and tend to annihilate the simplicity which becomes Christians.

I have often, in my dealings with the people of this country, felt that a most apt motto for them, as serving to remind them of two duties in which they chiefly fail, would be “LOVE THE TRUTH AND PEACE." There are no faults which so constantly harass our spirits here as falsehood and vociferation.

GANDOLFI, THE POPE'S APOSTOLIC VICAR.

Thursday, Oct. 16, 1823.-The Pope's Apostolic Vicar, Monseignior Gandolfi, whose residence at Antoura has been before noticed, being at present in Beirout, I waited on him with our consul. The remark made with respect to many of the Latins in this country, that such and such a one is no bigot, carries with it a very partial satisfaction to those who desire to see an ecclesiastic well acquainted with what the truth is, and sincerely and ardently attached to the truth, and zealous in its propagation.

The conversation of Monseignior Gandolfi was that of an acute, polite, and social person, who knows the world. He is now about seventy years of age, and came to his present situation before the breaking out of the French revolution. As representative of the Pope, he is properly the organ of communication to the churches of Syria upon subjects of dogmatical theology.

His sway, in matters of discipline, is extremely limited. The professing Roman Catholics among the natives are governed by their own respective hierarchies; these, of course, keep their own affairs as close as may be; and lay themselves open as seldom as possible to inspection or interference from Rome. Even the Latin friars, established in the various convents from Jerusalem to Aleppo, are not under his jurisdiction: they have their respective Superiors in Syria and Palestine, who correspond each with the general of his own order in Rome. When the Propaganda was in power, and still more when the Jesuits were in authority, the situation now held by Monseignior Gandolfi must have been one of the greatest influence. In reading the "Lettres Edifiantes el Curieuses," or the document hereafter given in this volume on the subject of education-a business which was much in the hands of the Jesuits—the magnitude of the office of Apostolic Legate about a hundred years ago, and previously, becomes very apparent.

DRUSES.

A principal topic of our conversation was the remarkable religious divisions in this country. These have been already recorded in the opening part of this volume. The Druses, universally, are an object of curiosity to all residents and visiters in Syria, and, consequently, they are a frequent subject of conversation; and yet all appear to me equally in the dark as to what the Druses really are. Some of their peculiar customs or observances are all which writers or persons in the country can describe. One thing noticed by Monseignior Gandolfi seemed to the company an inexplicable wonder in their character. "You shall see," he observed, "a young man among them dissolute in the highest degree, given to every vice, and altogether unbridled; yet, on his becoming initiated, in an instant his character is changed to sobriety and even rigid virtue: instead of drinking wine freely, he drinks water only; his passions are curbed; his vices seem to drop off from him; and he is as strict as before he was licentious.” This description struck the hearers with amazement; nor did they seem to know how to account for it. Some secret principle in the religious

theory of the Druses was what their minds were evidently turning to, as the operative cause of such miraculous conversions. I endeavored, therefore, to explain them upon a principle which every man who examines his own heart may easily descry. Admitting the fact, as stated, to be true, yet it may be nothing more than a change from the indulgence of the lusts of the flesh to the more dominant tyranny of the lusts of the spirit-the demon of pride expelling the demon of licentiousness. The unclean spirit, as our Lord describes, is gone out of the man; but, ere long, seven other spirits, still more wicked, enter in, and take up their abode in the restless, unhumbled heart; and the last state of that man is worse than the first. All assented to this view; but, with it, the conversation on this topic dropped.

There is, however, reason to doubt how far the fact stated may be a matter of mere appearances. The Druses are said by Burckhardt to be more observant of outward decorum than of genuine morality.

RETURN TO ANTOURA.

and spirits. I gave him much counsel: and, as he expects one day to go to Rome again, to fill some office as interpreting secretary, I reminded him, that one word from him might do great good or great harm; and especially cautioned him, never to sign his name to any thing which he knew to be unchristian or untrue. I gave him a sketch of the tribulations, which may be expected to fall on all those who uphold a system of deceit and error;* and, in the contemplation of his possibly living to witness troublous times, gave him for a motto these words "La fede vincitrice nelle tribolazioni"-"Faith triumphant in tribulations”explaining that I did not, by "The Faith," mean any particular form of words, or constitution of a church; but a personal, living faith, dwelling in a man's heart, working by love, and leading him to Christ for constant support.

He did not, poor youth, forget before his departure those two words, which might very properly be taken for the motto to the armorial bearings of Syria-"Give, give." We willingly administered to his necessities. Much could we wish that there were as ardent a desire for the sacred Scriptures, as there is for the supply of the wants of the body! Saturday, Oct. 18, 1823.-Having received let God alone can put this spiritual desire into their ters from Malta, I went to Antoura to make ar-hearts-a hungering and thirsting after righteousrangements for quitting this part of the country to go southward. On the road, I met Mr. King, who was, with a similar purpose, going to Beirout. After exchanging a few words, we each pursued his destination. I arrived by a beautiful moonlight, at the college, where I found Mr. Lewis and Mr. Fisk, as also Luigi Assemanni from Ain el

Warka.

COURSE OF STUDIES AT AIN EL WARKA.

ness.

morning service, which we had somewhat earlier We prevailed on him to wait, and attend our took his staff, as we could not persuade him to stay on his account. I preached in Italian. He then any longer, and walked away, very much with the air of a young pilgrim.

DIFFICULTY OF TRAVERSING MOUNT LEBANON.

Sunday, Oct. 19, 1823.-Yesterday evening and In the evening of this day, looking out at my this morning, I have had much conversation with Luigi Assemanni. He gave me this account of window on the vast irregular cliffs of Mount Lethe studies at Ain el Warka. The age of enter-banon, with the convents Deir el Shafi and Ybzuing the college is various-from eleven to eighteen years of age; the term of complete study is four years. In the first year, they learn the Syriac grammar; in the second, they read the book of the church-offices, both in Syriac and Arabic; in the third, they study, as he expressed it, prosody; but, on my asking his meaning, he said that he was not himself versed in this, and did not quite understand it ;* in the fourth year, they are occupied with moral theology, not dogmatical. All who are admitted must study with a view to the priesthood.

so as to cross them at their extremities, and to as

mar upon different summits far above me, and thinking of the toil of the next day's visit to them, the animating words of Isaiah came into my mind with peculiar force. The distance of Ybzumar may be less than five miles, in a direct line; but, to reach it, we shall have to wind round the base of mountains, to go through the length of valleys, cend hills by difficult traverses on most rugged single-footed paths, during four hours, chiefly with the sun upon us; and the same on our return. Eight hours of toil and burning heat, in order to The present Maronite Patriarch, Joseph, was have the opportunity of selling the sacred Scripof this college. He has been elected but a few tures, and converse upon religion! It is well: months: he adds Peter to his name, as being suc-tains furnish an emblem of the spiritual difficulties and it is delightful to think, that, while such mounand perplexities through which we have to wind our way, they have supplied to the evangelical prophet a fine image for describing the future success of this work. "Every valley shall be exalted, and every mountain and hill shall he made low; and the crooked shall be made straight, and the rough places plain: and the glory of the Lord shall be revealed, and all flesh shall see it together: for the mouth of the Lord hath spoken it."

cessor of St. Peter in the See of Antioch. He resides at Kanobiu, beyond Tripoli. The young men, when they have taken orders, are at the command of the Patriarch, to be sent to Damascus, or elsewhere, as he may choose.

LUIGI ASSEMANNI.

I find this young man to be very feeble in health

*Query, if this may be what is referred to in the account of the course of education, from which I have, in a subsequent page, made extracts, signifying what we would call Belles Letters.

* 2 Thess. ii. 7-12

CONVENT OF DEIR EL SHAFI.

Monday, Oct. 20, 1823.-We set forth, Mr. Fisk and myself, on sure-footed asses, skilled to climb the mountains. The road is, for the first half of it, the same as that to Ain el Warka. We were overtaken on the way by a Maronite bishop, who appeared to me more delicate than any native whom I had yet seen, having furnished himself with a small umbrella of white muslin: he just returned our salutations, and spurred forward, being well mounted. We turned off to the right, to reach the convent of Deir el Shafi, situated on a fertile eminence, commanding a magnificent view of the sea, the town and harbor of Beirout, and all the intermediate country. Eighteen monasteries may be seen from it. The air is pure; and, even on the hottest days, they here enjoy a breeze. It is pleasantly screened by groves of pine trees full of sap, which rise up the side of the mountain in the back ground.

The elevated site of many of these monasteries, well chosen for air, retirement, and security, often brings to the mind that expression, Oh inhabitant of Lebanon, that maketh thy nest in the cedars!

In the occupants, however, of Deir el Shafi, there is a melancholy air of somnolency. The Partriarch, who visited England, Mar Gregorius Peter Giarve, resides here only two months in the summer, for coolness: the rest of the year he lives at Mar Ephraim, a spot more inland. We were received by a bishop, who formerly was Partriarch for five years, and who was succeeded by Giarve. From his conversation the following particulars were obtained. The whole patriarchate contains one patriarch and seven bishops. Of these bishops, two are in Aleppo; one is in Mesopotamia, and another will be appointed there in lieu of one deceased; one is in Beirout; and there are two at this convent, one of whom we did not see, he being on an excursion in the neighborhood. In Jerusalem, they have no religious house; but their Syro-Catholic pilgrims go to the Latin convent. In Cairo, they have one Syrian establishment; a merchant's house, I understood him to mean.

The upper part of this convent was built about forty years ago, and appears substantial: there is a considerable building some few yards detached from it, lower down the hill, (for it is all built on the side of a steep acclivity,) of the date of only ten years, but likely to be unserviceable, unless great expense is laid out upon it; the roof being broken in some material parts. In this second building we were informed, lies the printing press, with the other materials brought from London and Paris.

CONVENT OF YEZUMAR.

We proceeded, by a rough and hot road, to the convent of Ybzumar. This is the residence of the Catholic Armenian Patriarch, and is a noble establishment. We were courteously received by the Patriarch, in the large divan; a more spacious and well furnished room than any I have yet seen in Syria. The convent has been built twentyeight years: in summer, it must be delightfully cool; but standing on so high an eminence, it is

visited in winter by tremendous thunder-storms, and enveloped in thick and cold mists. The wall at the end of this hall in which we are sitting, bears witness, by a large fissure in it, to the alarms which they must suffer during the mountain storms; and they have not yet procured a lightning conductor: they asked us questions on this subject; and seemed chiefly influenced by the fear that, if such an apparatus were not placed properly, it might do them harm instead of good, by attracting the electric fluid. Many smatterers in philosophy visit Syria, but they have no confidence in them. We recommended them, for the safety of a building on which so much money has been expended, to send at once for a skilful man from England. The Armenians are not a race of men fearful of expense; being rich and closely connected with one another in whatever part of the world they are to be found.

The Patriarch has been seven years and a half in his office. We were presently joined by one of two bishops, now residing in the convent; and by another ecclesiastic, whose name I regret not to have noted down, a very lively and intelligent man of about thirty-eight years of age, aspirant to a bishopric, and not unlikely to be promoted. The Patriarch speaks a very little Italian; but the other two speak it well. The bishop is of Aleppo, but has been passing much of his time here; and blessed himself that he was not in that city at the time of the dreadful earthquake.

Mr. Fisk had made a contract for the sale of a large number of Armenian New Testaments, which he brought with him. Of these they greatly preferred the Venice edition, to that printed in Russia.

As noon drew on, the table was spread for dinner. We dined alone with the Patriarch, and were certainly never better treated than here. He seemed to take a particular pleasure in giving us proofs of the excellence of his vintage, ordering different kinds of wine to be brought in succession; so that it became necessary for us to have a strict eye to the proper limits on such an occasion. After dinner, he took his repose and I also was obliged to lie down, being much fatigued with the morning's ride; but could take no rest, my mind being filled with the scene around me. In the mean time Mr. Fisk, surrounded by the young men, produced his Armenian stores, the whole of which were purchased by them. The room in which I lay down belonged to one of the students, a hopeful bright youth, who speaks Italian well, and who seemed gratified in showing me attention. His little library was select, containing Armenian and Italian books; and, no doubt, he has an ambition to be useful. It is impossible not to desire that such an ambition may receive a right direction; but, for this end, a purer knowledge of truth, than we find in these regions, is wanted and, indeed, the ambition itself needs to be supplanted by a higher motive than, we fear, exists in the generality of these students. After half an hour, I joined the company, who were all, under the direction of the ecclesiastic above mentioned, making their purchases. They soon after dispersed; and the ecclesiastic proceeded to take us over the establishment.

The church is, after their manner, heavily

splendid. In their dining-hall is a pulpit, from which a portion of some book is read, while the rest are dining. But that which most surprised me, was the number of rooms for the accommodation of pupils: we were told that there are about seventy. The pupils at present, are very few in number; about twelve: they do not average more than twenty: sometimes they are as few as four or five. I do not well know how to account for such variations, unless it be because there are two other Catholic Armenian convents not far distant, at Kraim and Beit Hashbo. This ecclesiastic informs us that the youths are not required to be priests: consequently, this may be regarded as, in some degree, a school for their merchants' children; and these merchants, moving about in the extensive regions of the east, or residing for uncertain periods in the cities more or less nearas Constantinople, Smyrna, Erzroum-may send their children more or less regularly to this and similar colleges. The course of education throws some light on the subject. Our conductor informed us, that, on their plan, it would require ten years to be well educated; for the complete course is to learn ancient Armenian, Arabic, a little philosophy, and various European languages. He is, himself preceptor; and is versed in these acquirements. Considering the low standard of the education of the clergy generally in the east-exception being made in favor of a few individuals among them, who have aspired to considerable attainments-this course of education manifestly declares itself to have been adopted for those who are designed to be men of the world. The Armenians are, in fact, an industrious, ingenious, persevering race; not at all, I have been told, addicted to war, but to civil pursuits: especially as bankers, in which character they rival the Jews.

what object, which could not as well be attained by them as married men?" He turned to St. Paul's argument in 1 Cor. vii; in discussing which, we pointed out the consideration that the apostle's view applied more particularly to times of persecution and distress, when the office of preaching the gospel might be embarrassed by the preachers' having families; as well as the converts themselves hindered, by the same circumstance, in their flight from the persecutor. We then asked, how far this applied to their case: he would have evaded the question, by asking if there were not other useful objects to be attained by study, and seclusion, and celibacy: we pressed upon him, that St. Paul gives no other reasons for the expediency of the state of celibacy, than that it gives more freedom from worldly distraction, and thus affords more leisure for the active service of God; and now, "in what way," we asked, "do these convents promote the active service of God? Do the priests here preach the gospel, at the hazard of their lives? Is it to this, that their young men are trained? Does their unmarried state, which would give them an opportunity of more easily escaping if their life were sought for, encourage them to stand out boldly on behalf of the gospel? What for example, is the state of the convents in Mount Lebanon? What converts are they in the habit of making among the Mohammedans ?” "Are You, then, he asked," "come to preach to the Mohammedans ?" I replied, "I will go with you, and preach to them:" but from this answer he manifestly drew back. He asked what ground we had for supposing that all countries would become Christian-expressing it as his opinion, that the promises of sacred Scripture do not go to prove that all the world will be Christian, but that there will be some Christians in all countries; a sufficient number to stand as witnesses of the truth, and examples to their heathen or Mohammedan neighbors. 66 Is there then," I asked "a sufficient number of converts to Christianity in Mount Lebanon and Syrian?" To this he principally answered, that he thought the call to preach the gospel applied fully to Pagan nations; but that, in these countries, nothing could be done without protection-that the moment any one should begin We had here a very long conversation, on vari- to preach generally, out of the line which he was ous points concerning the state of religion in the known to occupy, he would be put down by the east, and the opinions of the western churches. government. Here he, at once, came to their The Armenian ecclesiastic took the chief part in magnum gravamen. We dwelt on the obstacles it, the other priests being very infirm. Particu- opposed to the first entrance of Christianity, and larly he defended the question of the monastic its triumphant success in spite of them; endeavorvows. I urged that there was no sufficient reasoning to show how much we all need the revival of for them; and that they were contrary to nature and the design of Scripture: particularly I pressed the extreme improbability that the young men should be able to know themselves sufficiently, when they make the vow of celibacy. "To this end," he said, "surely in a probation of two years, kept under strict rule, they would be able to judge of their ability to continue in the observance of that rule." "Far from it," I said: "their nature is not developed in so short a space of time: the extraneous restraints, under which they are placed, may give them an artificial opinion of themselves and of the world; and, when they come into real life and its snares, two years' probation will be found to have done very little for them. And for

DISCUSSION WITH AN ARMENIAN ECCLESIASTIC.

After going over the whole building, we were invited to visit an aged priest who occupies an apartment here. In former times, he has visited Rome frequently. He considers himself in the light of a British subject; having made himself, at one time, useful to Sir Sydney Smith.

the faith and zeal of the primitive times. The expression was used by me, incidentally, that they needed new opinions-at which they started: 1 immediately explained, pointing to a Bible on the shelf, that that book contained all my opinions; and that what I meant to express, was, NEW FEELING of the opinions there laid down for Christians. Mr. Fisk emphatically added, "A NEW HEART!"

The two priests, in conclusion, asked me, whether there were many in England who thought on this subject as I had expressed myself. Remembering the scenes which I had witnessed at the anniver saries of the different religious societies in May 1821, I ventured to say, that we have both bishops and noblemen, as well as many others of the nation,

who earnestly desire to see the preaching of the pure gospel in the Turkish empire. I am not sure that his question was not intended to elicit a feeling of sympathy for their political circumstances. I limited my answer to the religious view of the question.

trance is a school, where I noted about fifteen boys noisily saying their lessons to the master. The service of these Greek Catholics is chiefly in Arabic, with a few doxologies in Greek. They call themselves Melchites. The aspect of this establishment was very far from comfortable or clean; and the ecclesiastics whom we saw had a very indolent appearance.

RETURN TO BEIROUT.

I reached Beirout in the afternoon. Here I

set off for Damascus.

They, likewise, inquired whether our religious societies would encourage their young men in their studies, and give them help if they went to England. To this, considering the sense in which the question was put, I did not give any very encouraging reply. Indeed I am more than ever convinced, that, although it would be less gratify- found Mr. King, and learned that Mr. Wolff had ing to our feelings to teach them in their own native soil, than to invite them to ours; yet more good incomparably will be done, by one faithful missionary's going among them, than by a plan for receiving twenty or any number of them among ourselves. Should any of them visit England, mere courtesy would lead them to accommodate themselves, as far as possible, to our habits: but, should they change their manners in their own land, the change may be more fairly set down to the account of real conversion of heart. And is not this change more likely to be effected by the example and instructions of one pious and zealous man stationed among them, that by their viewing us "en masse," and acquiring what at best might be only a general good impression in favor of our

national character!

RETURN TO ANTOURA.

arrived from Antoura. We remained in Beirout Wednesday, Oct. 22.-This afternoon Mr. Fisk Scriptures were sold, while we also made our ara week during which many copies of the sacred rangements for departing for Jerusalem; Mr.Fisk having kindly consented to be my companion on this journey.

Saturday, Oct. 25.-This evening Mr. Lewis also arrived from Antoura, with the intention of making a tour of some length to Damascus, and from thence to Jerusalem. I had, also, this evening an interview with the Greek procurator, who acts for the Greek bishop of Beirout, of the orthosacred Scriptures to him; but he complains of the great distresses which have fallen upon his nation since the revolution. The bishop has retired from the city to the mountains: the people are scattered; and are in continual alarm.

dox oriental church. We wished to sell the Greek

At the close of this conversation we prepared to depart. The first part of our ride was as his uncle was a Greek bishop; and, perceiving in The procurator reads ancient Greek very well: hot as it had been in the morning; but, during the latter part of it, we enjoyed the coolness of him a turn for study, educated him. How many evening, and the descent of the dew after sunset of this people are now continually being sacrificed -men who have made a far greater progress, upon the fragrant herbs-the smell of Lebanon. (Canticles iv. 11.) It is not, indeed, very easy to than any others of the east, in useful knowledge! converse in these single parties, where one follows-men truly distinguished for having blended comanother; but, although conversation cannot thus be rapid, or among several persons at once, yet when it is between two individuals it assumes a much more meditative cast. In this manner,

mercial and literary enterprise! Were they to be exterminated, the Levant would be thrown back

some ages into barbarism, and the instrumentality of learning in the propagation of Christianity nearwearied with the day, but refreshed by the lastly lost. And yet if the sword has a charge against half-hour, we reached Antoura.

Tuesday, Oct. 21, 1823.-The early part of the morning was engaged in preparing finally to quit Antoura, where I had been so kindly welcomed by Mr. Lewis; and where, with the rest of the missionary brethren, I had unexpectedly derived, from our united prayers and conversations a greater measure of spiritual edification, than, in my former solitary travels, I had ever had the opportunity to enjoy. After we had breakfasted, the Latin friar of Hareesa, Padre Carlo, came in from Beirout: to him I gave an Italian Testament. The number of rooms in his convent he states at thirty, now occupied by himself alone.

CONVENT OF MAR MICHAEL.

On quittting Antoura, I proceeded to the convent of Mar Michael, about three quarters of an hour distant, where dwells Ignatius, the Catholic Greek Patriarch. He is a very infirm old man, blind and bed-ridden. About fifteen or twenty priests are in the convent; and, at a small room near the en

these countries, to destroy the accumulated errors

and superstitions of so many ages-corruptions it may yet be long, very long, ere that sword be which seem likely to yield to no other disciplinequiet.

Sunday, Oct. 26, 1823.-This morning, notice having been previously given to the Frank consuls and residents in Beirout, that there would be divine service in Italian at the British consul's garden-house, we assembled to the number of twenty. Mr. Fisk read portions of the sacred Scripture; and prayed; after which I preached from Matthew xviii. 20. Where two or three are gathered together in my name, there am I in the midst of them.

SOME ACCOUNT OF BEIROUT.

The following day closed my residence for the present, in Mount Lebanon.

In order to give, at one view, the whole of my observations in this part of the country, in this place may very properly be subjoined the few additional