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naturalists, by which it will roll a ball ten or twelve themselves suffering many privations consequent times its own size, conveying it to a considerable upon the exhaustion of their accustomed supplies, distance, and that on the most scientific principles; I shall ever feel grateful. On turning to take a one of them bearing with its head and fore-legs last view of the missionary station from the neighupon the ground, pushes it forward by its hind-legs, boring heights, I could not but feel that I was while the other crawls upon the ball in an opposite leaving a spot which had often proved a welcome direction; thereby imparting by the weight of its asylum, and on which I can never reflect but with body an additional impetus to the advancing a sense of gratitude and pleasure. Although fine hemisphere, beyond which it never ascends. when we started, the rain soon recommenced; These balls are generally composed of manure; and from the quantity which had already fallen, and it is supposed that in them their eggs are the path in many places were complete waterenveloped; but this fact I have not ascertained. courses, and so slippery that it was with difficulty A Newton himself could not have displayed a we could prevent our horses from falling. The more practical acquaintance with the power of night had closed upon us before we reached the gravity; but surely He, from whom Newton and Umtata; and so dark was it on descending the all the wise-hearted of the earth have obtained wooded slope to the river, that I more than once, their knowledge, has implanted this remarkable while leading my horse, struck against the haunch instinct.
of that which was preceding, unconscious that it This afternoon the wagons arrived; they had was immediately before me. The river was said had been obliged to make a considerable circuit to be impassable ; at all events, under present to the eastward, reaching the coast at the mouth circumstances, it would have been madness to of the Umtavoomi. The oxen have frequently have made the attempt. There are no inhabitants been obliged to swim in fording the rivers, and in this part, and as the rain, which had never inmy baggage of course has been as often submerg- termitted, was still falling, we were obliged to ed. As the missionaries now here are the only content ourselves with the questionable protection individuals who have as yet attempted to pass of a clump of mimosa bushes, where without a fire through Kheeli's country since the cessation of | (there being no posssibility of kindling one,) we hostilities, and there is little doubt that had they made our bivouac for the night, not been recognised as such they would have been Friday, 20th.-Every article of my clothing, stopped, I give up all idea of forwarding the wa- with the exception of a camblet cloak, being pergons, at least for the present, and make prepara- fectly saturated with rain, I thought it prudent, tions for starting with them on horseback to-mor- instead of lying down in this humid state, to divest row morning.
myself of all, and rolling myselfup in the said cloak, Thursday, 19th.—This morning Fakü, with a with the saddle for a pillow, I slept soundly until few attendants only, visited the station. His first day-light, when, from the continuation of the rain request was, that I would give him some cattle, and the profuse dripping from the trees, I found the having doubtless heard of the arrival of my wagons saddle completely wet, and the water trickling with four spans, an unusual number. An ox, as under my head. Having so many inducements is customary, was presented to him by Mr. Tain- to quit our comfortless quarters, which we agreed ton, and killed on the spot for himself and party; to name the “ Bathing-house,” we soon descended but still urging his request, notwithstanding I had to the river, which we found but barely practicable, given him a string of uniform buttons, I desired an and, wading across breast high, succeeded in dragox to be brought, which was presented under a ging the horses through the rocky channel, in condition of its being immediately killed. This which operation our entire paraphernalia was for unfortunate beast, while drinking in the Tugăla, some time under water. before it came into my possession, had been so Had the missionary buildings at Morley been beset by alligators, that it was a wonder to all, still in existence, we should soon have restored the who had observed its perilous situation, that it had contents of our saddle-bags—but all, excepting the ever escaped their fangs. When nearly over. chapel, had been burnt during the late disturb. powered, and about to be drawn into the stream, ances; and we had to content ourselves with the as a last resort, a musket was discharged, when shelter of a native hut at a short distance from the they all instantly quitted their prey, the last alli- station. The ascent fom the river to Morley gator biting his tail short off as he followed his (about four miles distant) is steep, and commands companions into the water. The torture which ome of the finest scenery in this country. Per. this privation must occasion at this season, when pendicular cliffs of a red color, rising among trees the flies are so numerous and troublesome, had and underwood, among which are many of the long decided me on having him killed as soon as euphorbia class, margin the stream. Several cahis services were not absolutely requisite. As taracts, now filled by the rain, were gushing from soon as Mr. Palmer had finished his conference the highest points; these, with the graceful windwith Fakū, I took my leave also. He gave me ings of the impetuous river, traced for some dishis hand with great cordiality, requesting me to tance from the heights, combined to form a most inform the Great Chief that he should certainly enchanting and romantic prospect, which a short make an attack on all the tribes between him and interval form rain at this time enabled me in some the coast, as far as the Bashee; but that he should degree to enjoy. This is the first Amatembu vil. not molest Ferdana, as he had originally intended. lage in this direction, and to the narrow limits of We were thus detained until half-past twelve, a native hut we were confined as close prisoners, when I once more took my leave of Mr. and Mrs. on account of the rain, for the greater part of the Tainton, to whose hospitality I have been so often day, enduring a temperature approaching to that indebted and for whose continued kindness, though of an oven, which for the sole benefit of our clothes,
both on and off, we were necessitated to bear. What sweet communion we might share, Had we not crossed the Umtata at the moment How many hours of comfort know, we did, it is probable that we might have been Did each another's burden beardetained some days, as it is reported to be still Did love through all our actions flow. rising. Our present distance from Bunting is estimated at forty-two miles.
How often to Emmaus led
Our ardent steps would willing speed, Saturday, 21st.—The weather being fine, we To speak of One who once has bled, set out at nine, but were considerably delayed in That rebels might from sin be freed. the route, several petty chiefs, who were detained by the rain from visiting Mr. Palmer (their late
And who can tell till that great day, missionary) at the village, as previously arranged,
When every thought shall be confessed, now way-laying us on the path. Each came ac How many would have turned away, companied by several attendants—the chiefs, as
But for a word in season blessed? we approached, placing their shields and assegais before them on the ground, and then seating
If, then, our hearts to God are turned themselves until we came up, the attendants of
If Jesus we have precious found, each standing the whole time close in the rear,
And much of grace and goodness learned, firmly grasping the bundle of assegais on which Let Christian charity abound. they were leaning. I was particularly struck with the commanding and intelligent appearance
Like Samson's wishes-though weak alone, of an individual in one of these groupes, whom I
United, we shall strength impart. afterwards understood from Mr. Palmer was nam
The grace and truth which each have known, ed Darka (brother of the head of the village where
Will cheer and comfort every heart. we had slept,) and whose character exactly corresponded with his expression of countenanee.
Thus oft refreshed from Baca's fount, He had, it appears, been a frequent visitant at the While journeying through this vale of tears, mission-house, where, it was evident, from his re To Pisgah's top we oft shall mount, marks and inquiries, that in point of intellect he And gaze away our doubts and fears. was far in advance of the generality of his countrymen. So great was his thirst for knowledge, And when our souls shall one by one that he had requested Mr. Palmer to take him Before our Father's throne appear, with him on his next visit to the colony, and had The song that was on earth begun, actually accompanied his wagon part of the way, Shall only be completed there. when, on account of the breaking out of the Kafir war, it was thought imprudent for him to advance And oh, what rapture there to meet beyond Clarkebury.
The partners of our grief and care; The natives of the different villages near which
To cast our crowns at Jesus' feet, we passed were civil, occasionally bringing amās
And own 'twas grace that brought us there! at our request, which, though of a very inferior quality, we were glad to obtain. Although most
Mr. Davis, unassisted by an interpreter, perof the baggage was distributed upon led horses, formed the Kafir service in front of our hut. several of them knocked up, so that, unable to Monday, 23rd. Fearing detention from the reach Clarkebury, as had been intended this height of the Bashee, we started early. The evening, we turned aside to a wooded hill, under river was, indeed, full-my interpreter and myself which were a few huts, at a quarter past seven, were the first across. He was soon swept of his where we proposed remaining until Monday, the legs, and only gained the opposite bank by swimmissionary station being about ten miles distant. ming; at the same moment I was struggling
against the current, scarcely able to retain my
footing, when two stout fellows of the Amatembu Sunday, 22nd.
tribe kindly came up, and placing their backs
against mine, supported me through the deepest "When thou art converted strengthen thy bre part, and I soon after gained a rocky ledge, by thren.”—(Luke xxii. 32.)
which the channel is here divided the other
branch I was obliged to swim. What a sweet constraining power
My object in preceding the party was to Binds the hearts of Christians here!
courage the people who accompanied Messrs. How it soothes each trying hour
Palmer and Davis, not one of them would attempt To feel that we have friends so dear! the passage, although two of the Amatembu had
just crossed from the opposite side before their Bound by one law—the law of love,
After a considerable detention, I was joinThey help each other by the way; ed by my companions, who, at both rivers, had The strength that they obtain above each been assisted by two men, and every thing Gladly to others they convey.
being safely conveyed across, we again mounted,
and soon reached the mission-house at ClarkeAll members of one glorious Head,
bury. The distance from Morley is about fortyEach shares the pang his brother feels; six miles. Rejoices when the trial's sped,
A message, announcing our arrival, having been And owns the hand afflicts and heals. previously sent to Ferdana, in about a couple of
hours he made his appearance, accompanied by a twelve, having been unable to procure the horses respectable train, all well provided with assegais. sooner. We had not proceeded far, when we His figure is tall and well proportioned—his coun- observed a number of people collected about the enance puerile and vacant; he approached in huts of a village we were approaching. On in
omewhat a formal manner, preceding his two quiry, we found that one of the houses had been brothers, who were closely followed by the rest of struck by lightning two days previously, and that his party. The three chiefs appeared in panther- the witch doctor had just arrived to purify the skin mantles (the fur inside,) and each carried a place, which was to be effected by killing a beast, single assegai in his hand. How strangely do feasting, and dancing. Thorn bushes had been circumstances vary our relative position. I was placed round the hut in question, which was abannow in amicable converse with the very people doned and not again allowed to be entered. Prowho, during my last visit to this place, are said to videntially no lives had been lost. Other inhave been meditating my death. This account, stances of this kind were noticed in my journey which I have every reason to believe is correct, up, while passing through the Amakõsa, in all of was brought to Bunting after I had left for Port which the houses had invariably been abandoned. Natal, by a native named Sotchangān, and who It is probable that the greater part of this coundeclared that he was himself present during the try will shortly be overrun with locusts ; the young deliberation which took place on the subject be- insects are innumerable, and in some places enfore Ferdana.
tirely covered the ground; insomuch, that many How gracious is that Providence, which pro- of the natives assured us that they should not tects us not only from the arrow which flieth by plant corn this year, as they were not likely to day, but from the unknown and not less fatal ma- benefit by the crop, chinations of our fellow-men !
Among the cattle great losses have been sus. To this unpleasant subject no allusion of course tained; occasioned, as it is said, by the unusual was made ; a fitter opportunity will doubtless oc- cold and heavy rains : probably, the circumstance cur for investigating this matter, as also the sus- of a state of warfare may have contributed to the picion under which he rests of having murdered amount ;—the fact, however, was obvious,—at' the two messengers from Bunting. To obtain every village, and frequently by the way, heads from Ferdana, either by loan or by purchase, a and skeletons were strewing the ground; but supply of fresh horses was our aim, and the con chiefly in the cattle-folds, where many whole carversation on this knotty subject was long and cases were still remaining. There has been an tedious ; at last he agreed to lend four as far as equal mortality I am told among the colonial catKheeli's great place. In the present state of the tle, while the districts to the northward of the cuntry, in daily expectation of attacks either Bashee have been exempt. In the afternoon we from the Amapondas or the Amahóash, it is pro- had a drizzling rain, and being now on the skirts bably as much as we could expect; and for which of the Amamaia tribe, we found the frontier vil. assistance I have agreed to give him a cow, which lages mutually abandoned. These people, of I shall endeavor to send by the first opportunity. Amatembu stock, though now independent, are a The parley at length being ended, he retired with nest of freebooters in friendly alliance with their all his people ; but although a messenger was im- southern neighbors, the Amakosa, and possessed mediately despatched for the horses, there is little of all their treacherous and pilfering propensities. hope, from the distance at which they are kept, So bitter are their feuds to this day with their ciof their arriving before to-morrow evening. A devant brethren the Amatembu, that the guides surprising change has taken place in the face of sent by Ferdana to escort us to Kheeli's territory, the country ;-all is now green, which when last were so apprehensive of ill treatment that they here was parched and desolate. Still, however, left us at this point to proceed alone. After crossthere is little to recommend the spot on which the ing the Colosa, having travelled during the day missionary buildings are erected. This, I now about twenty-five miles, we took up our night's understand from Mr. Davis, was not from choice, quarters in a dilapidated hut, the best that we -another site having been selected for the pur- could select, in one of these deserted villages. pose, but given up on Vosani's expressing a pre Thursday, 26th.—Continued our route at sunference for the present situation. Having been rise, over open downs, the country both yesterday so long accustomed to the scrupulous honesty of and to-day being generally bare of trees. We the Zoolus and Amapondas, I was not prepared soon, however, reached an inhabited district, for the loss of my bridle, which had suddenly dis- which was first indicated by a bush-buck, almost appeared from the fence of the garden, where it exhausted, crossing our path; some dogs soon had been imprudently hung. I believe that the after ascended the ridge in pursuit, followed at a Amatembu are far less addicted to theft than their short distance by several natives, well provided adroit neighbors, the Amakosa ; in all other re- with assegais, evidently on a hunting expedition. spects, at least to a casual observer, they are ex- Having satisfied their questions respecting indaba actly similar. It should not, however, be omitted (news,) &c., we rode on. Several other parties that Ferdana has adjudged a fine of two cows to the came up as we proceeded, all very civil; and person whom Gògu (charged with the care of the some even approached us unarmed, although cach station in Mr. Davis's absence) had detected in the of our native attendants carried a gun. After act of purloining a tin mug from the mission-house. resting the horses for about half an hour, we
Since we have been here a heavy thunder again continued our route, and soon obtained a storm has set in every afternoon; they are said distant view of the walls of Butterworth, this to be very frequent in this neighborhood. missionary station having shared the fate of Mor
Wedilesday, 25th.—Left Clarkebury at half-past ley during the recent war. As we approached
the ruins, a native upon a pack-ox, who had not own. It had been stolen from him by a party of before perceived us, was so suddenly surprised at Abasootu, in one of their predatory expeditions our appearance, that, regardless of his beast, he across the mountains, and had subsequently been instantly sprung from his back, and in a few se- employed by the same people in a late attack upon conds was out of sight; naturally concluding that the Amatembu, in which they were defeated; our intentions were not the most pacific. Both and this, with several other of their horses, here and at Morley, I had met with great kind- was captured by Ferdána. Had that suspicious ness from the missionary families; and while chieftain been aware of his real pedigree, he riding over the bricks and rubbish of the demo- would never have allowed him to have accompanied lished buildings, bearing evident marks of the con- us on our present journey. Not only is it proflagration, I felt much for them and for the cause hibited during the period of state inourning to in which they have suffered : it was indeed a me- renew the thatch of the most dilapidated hut, but lancholy satisfaction we were indulging, and we even the wholesome influence of the besom is also soon instinctively turned aside from the blackened forbidden; and as this village had been abandoned walls to visit the garden, where an abundance of during the war, the condition of our floor may be figs, alınonds, and peaches were rapidly advancing better imagined than described. As soon as it was to a state of maturity. But what delighted me the dark I made some attempt at repairing the roof, most was a luxuriant hedge of roses covered with as it was threatening rain, but the thaich was too flowers and in great beauty, the first I had seen scanty and far between to do any thing effectually. since leaving the colony ; and the very sight of In the evening an ox was sent to us to be slaughwhich almost transported me again to my native tered, which proved a very acceptable supply, as country,—though not indeed the land of the olive our people had been nearly a day without tasting and the vine,-still pre-eminently of the jessamine food, and our own stock was almost exhausted. and rose.
Friday, 26th.—Having last night been promised Leaving this interesting spot, about three miles guides to the Kei, we were anxious to proceed; to the right we reached the present residence of but as none had yet been sent, we repaired to Kheeli--a village containing only nine huts, all in Nomesa's hut, where it was understood that sea most wretched and dilapidated condition, and still veral of the councillors, although at an unusually likely to be occupied for some time without repair, carly hour, were assembled. Nomesa was Hinza's as a part of the customary respect paid to the principal wife, and is the mother of Kheeli; and memory of a deceased chief. Shortly after our even during the life-time of her husband is said to arrival, Kheeli made his appearance; it was about have had great influence in the tribe. The hut the time of drinking milk; his councillors and was crowded; and although anxious to see this principal men soon assembled near his mother's political lady, the smoke was so dense that her hut, and, seating themselves on the ground, form- person was entirely concealed; this, however, was ed a semicircle round him, while he sent portions no impediment to a long conversation which soon of milk to each, the baskets being first placed be- commenced. Kheeli, who in her presence seems fore him by two servants, who, strange to say, to have little importance, coming in at this time, wore each a printed cloth round his waist, the first and lolling carelessly in one corner of the hut, she attempt at civilized attire which has yet been thus addressed me, pointing to her son :—“We made by these inveterate sons of nature, and I have no rest. You see that child-he has no trust will not long remain a solitary example. place—he is a baby. I am obliged to carry him Kheeli is a young man of about twenty, tall and about in my teeth—his house is dead, and we are apparently of a mild disposition ; somewhat grace- all eaten up! We wish to have a word to be at ful in his actions and of rather a Jewish expression rest, that we may cultivate the ground.” I reof countenance. As soon as the important business plied, by reminding her "that they had already of drinking curdled milk was ended, in which, received a word to be at rest; that the English though served late, we had not been neglected, had rested ; and they wished to see peace estaKheeli, with a few of his chief councillors, removed blished.” The councillors then spoke in confirmato the spot where we had been sitting at a few tion of their great woman's words, and all in the paces from the assembly, which gradually dispers- same strain. They declared that they knew not ed, and commenced a long parley. News was why these troubles had come upon them; that they eagerly inquired, as well from the English camp had taken nothing ; and were quiet until they were as from their northern neighbors. Having endea. " eaten up" (a common expression for being imvored to satisfy (for that is scarcely possible) all poverished.) To a stranger to their character, these various inquiries, a request our part was and to the real facts of the case, such a pathetic made for two horses, and a mounted guide to and plausible appeal would doubtless have excited conduct us across the Kei; but all our endeavors, commiseration, and kindled a generous indignation urged with the promise of a present on reaching at cruelties apparently so wantonly inflicted by a our destination, were ineffectual. “ Where are Christian and civilised nation, on one so unoflendhorses to come from? We have none"-was the ing and helpless. But as I had been already sufreply. “ The Amatembu have stolen them—the ficiently initiated into their modes of address and English have taken them.” In short, it had evi- arch duplicity, and was tolerably well acquainted dently been determined that, at least, we should with the causes and leading circumstances of the have none. It was now proposed to leave one late war, my high sense of amor patria was by no here which had knocked up on the journey, but in means diminished; and had my cheek reddened the course of this arrangement, which was agreed at the time, it would have been occasioned by the to, a singular coincidence occurred this very palpable falsehoods they were striving so systema. horse being recognised by Khceli as one of his tically to uphold. The horses being packed, and
very thing ready, Keeeli, with several of his corps (Hottentos) at sunset, and reached King people, assembled before our hut to see us go off. William's Town at three in the morning, where,
The favorable moment was not lost: and I was notwithstanding the unseasonable hour, I was particularly delighted with the simplicity with which kindly welcomed by Mr. T. Shepstone, the governMr. Davis first gave out a hymn in the native lan- ment interpreter. guage, and then led all who were willing to join Saturday, 281h.—Colonel Smith, who since the in singing the praises of Jehovah. It was a happy termination of the war has commanded the new conclusion to our visit; surrounded, as we were, province, received me with great kindness, and by some of the most determined and ferocious took much interest in the situation of affairs at characters in all Kafir-land, it has left an impres- Port Natal, affording me, in the most handsome sion on my mind which I shall never forget. manner, a military escort for the remainder of my
As we proceeded the country gradually improv- journey to Graham's Town. Here the changes ed, being more broken and clothed with trees in effected by the late "row with Kafirs," as it was the ravines. Stopped to rest our horses at a spot elegantly expressed to me by a colonial farmer, called Shaw's Fountain, and within a few paces were still more apparent than in the line of posts of the remains of the house in which William Pur- I had passed on the road. The whole appeared cell
, a trader, was wantonly murdered by a native like a dream—the very name of King William's in July of the past year. As we approached the Town was to me a novelty; and what I only reKei, the lads watching the cattle took the alarm; membered as the quiet abode of a missionary of and it was amusing to see the rapidity with which the London Society (Mr. Brownlie) is now metaseveral herds on each side of the road were driven morphosed into a military cantonment, half urban, off into the wooded ravines. They soon, however, half nomadic ; here a line of mud huts; there an gained confidence; and in spite of the guns came enclosure of tents; all however well arranged, near, and loudly called for a bāzella (present.) and apparently in high effective order. That part Mounted and bearing guns across their shoulders, of the mission-house which has escaped the flames our native escort, for this country, had rather a is repaired, and roofing; and one room is already respectable appearance; but what benefit we appropriated as an office for the transaction of were to derive from their weapons, in the event | business : while in the outskirts of the settlement of an attack, I have yet to learn. In defensive several acres of land have been brought into culwarfare their prowess was certainly uncalled for; tivation, and are yielding good crops of oats, an but on two occasions they all dismounted, drew up excellent precaution where forage of this descripin a line, and made a vigorous attack upon a flock tion is so difficult to be procured. After breakof wild geese, which, strange to say, all flew off fasting in the colonel's markee, I resumed my without leaving them even a feather for a trophy! journey at half-past ten. As the chain of posts,
From the quantity of rain which has recently and consequently the relays of horses, were nearer fallen, and the state of the other rivers, we had together on the Fort Wiltshire road than on that little expectation of finding the Kei in a fordable which I had formerly travelled, by Trompeter's state, and were rejoiced to perceive that it was and Committee's Drift, I had an opportunity of only moderately high, enabling us to cross without crossing the Fish and Keiskamma rivers considedificulty. The guides could not be induced to rably higher up, and traversing in a fresh direcaccompany us across, but left us on the bank to tion that extensive line of jungle and forest, which return home. We were now in the new province occupies a considerable part of the country which of Adelaide (the colonial boundary, since the late is intersected by the Fish river, and known war, having been extended to this river ;) and as throughout its whole extent (about seventy miles) soon as all our party had gained the British side, by the general appellation of the “ Fish River we knelt down and offered up a prayer of thanks- Bush.” To the skirts of this forest the country is giving to the God of all our mercies, by whose comparatively open, covered chiefly by patches of good providence we have been so mercifully pros- the thorny mimosa, and affording in every part pered and protected in our journey. We had most desirable sites for agricultural locations : all started this morning at twenty minutes to seven, beyond is wild and rugged, and, I may add, sombre and reached Fort Warden (the first military post,) in the extreme. There are no relieving clifts and about five miles from the river, at a quarter to plashing cataracts to cheer the monotony-no four where we were kinkly received by Captain curling smoke marks the approach to a single De Lancey, the officer in command. My business habitation ; all wears a savage mournful aspect ; with his excellency the governor being urgent, and although the traveHer is often reminded by Captain De Lancey kindly furnished me with an the sto ness of the route, and the sudden abruptescort to the next post, and an order to be suppli- ness of the neighboring ravines, that he is traversed there with fresh horses to King William's Town, ing hills of no ordinary character: so unbroken the head quarters. My own horse, notwithstand and impervious is the green mantle which is cast ing all his toils (having ridden him almost every over all, that he searches in vain for an object to day for these two months past,) came in quite guide his bewildered judgmennt, and at last reverts fresh, and with the additional weight of saddle- to himself and his horse as the only approximate bags galloped in front of the whole party. Here, means of fathoming the heights and chasms by however, I left him to be brought on with the which he is surrounded. To say that this was other led horses, my companions intending to sleep once the frontier of the colony would scarcely be here, and proceed by more moderate stages. credited by any military man; and the very
knowBeing anxious, if possible, to reach Graham's ledge of such a fact would at once prepare him Town some me to-morrow night, I set out again for much of the consequent disasters which have with my interpreter, escorted by two of the Cape occurred.