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naturalists, by which it will roll a ball ten or twelve times its own size, conveying it to a considerable distance, and that on the most scientific principles; one of them bearing with its head and fore-legs upon the ground, pushes it forward by its hind-legs, while the other crawls upon the ball in an opposite direction; thereby imparting by the weight of its body an additional impetus to the advancing hemisphere, beyond which it never ascends. These balls are generally composed of manure; and it is supposed that in them their eggs are enveloped; but this fact I have not ascertained. A Newton himself could not have displayed a more practical acquaintance with the power of gravity; but surely He, from whom Newton and all the wise-hearted of the earth have obtained their knowledge, has implanted this remarkable instinct.

themselves suffering many privations consequent upon the exhaustion of their accustomed supplies, I shall ever feel grateful. On turning to take a last view of the missionary station from the neighboring heights, I could not but feel that I was leaving a spot which had often proved a welcome asylum, and on which I can never reflect but with a sense of gratitude and pleasure. Although fine when we started, the rain soon recommenced; and from the quantity which had already fallen, the path in many places were complete watercourses, and so slippery that it was with difficulty we could prevent our horses from falling. The night had closed upon us before we reached the Umtata; and so dark was it on descending the wooded slope to the river, that I more than once, while leading my horse, struck against the haunch of that which was preceding, unconscious that it This afternoon the wagons arrived; they had was immediately before me. The river was said had been obliged to make a considerable circuit to be impassable; at all events, under present to the eastward, reaching the coast at the mouth circumstances, it would have been madness to of the Umtavoomi. The oxen have frequently have made the attempt. There are no inhabitants been obliged to swim in fording the rivers, and in this part, and as the rain, which had never inmy baggage of course has been as often submerg-termitted, was still falling, we were obliged to ed. As the missionaries now here are the only content ourselves with the questionable protection individuals who have as yet attempted to pass of a clump of mimosa bushes, where without a fire through Kheeli's country since the cessation of (there being no posssibility of kindling one,) we hostilities, and there is little doubt that had they made our bivouac for the night, not been recognised as such they would have been stopped, I give up all idea of forwarding the wagons, at least for the present, and make preparations for starting with them on horseback to-morrow morning.

Thursday, 19th.-This morning Faku, with a few attendants only, visited the station. His first request was, that I would give him some cattle, having doubtless heard of the arrival of my wagons with four spans, an unusual number. An ox, as is customary, was presented to him by Mr. Tainton, and killed on the spot for himself and party; but still urging his request, notwithstanding I had given him a string of uniform buttons, I desired an ox to be brought, which was presented under a condition of its being immediately killed. This unfortunate beast, while drinking in the Tugala, before it came into my possession, had been so beset by alligators, that it was a wonder to all, who had observed its perilous situation, that it had ever escaped their fangs. When nearly overpowered, and about to be drawn into the stream, as a last resort, a musket was discharged, when they all instantly quitted their prey, the last alligator biting his tail short off as he followed his companions into the water. The torture which this privation must occasion at this season, when the flies are so numerous and troublesome, had long decided me on having him killed as soon as his services were not absolutely requisite. As soon as Mr. Palmer had finished his conference with Faku, I took my leave also. He gave me his hand with great cordiality, requesting me to inform the Great Chief that he should certainly make an attack on all the tribes between him and the coast, as far as the Bashee; but that he should not molest Ferdana, as he had originally intended. We were thus detained until half-past twelve, when I once more took my leave of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton, to whose hospitality I have been so often indebted and for whose continued kindness, though

Friday, 20th.-Every article of my clothing, with the exception of a camblet cloak, being perfectly saturated with rain, I thought it prudent, instead of lying down in this humid state, to divest myself of all, and rolling myselfup in the said cloak, with the saddle for a pillow, I slept soundly until day-light, when, from the continuation of the rain and the profuse dripping from the trees, I found the saddle completely wet, and the water trickling under my head. Having so many inducements to quit our comfortless quarters, which we agreed to name the "Bathing-house," we soon descended to the river, which we found but barely practicable, and, wading across breast high, succeeded in dragging the horses through the rocky channel, in which operation our entire paraphernalia was for some time under water.

Had the missionary buildings at Morley been still in existence, we should soon have restored the contents of our saddle-bags-but all, excepting the chapel, had been burnt during the late disturb. ances; and we had to content ourselves with the shelter of a native hut at a short distance from the station. The ascent fom the river to Morley (about four miles distant) is steep, and commands ome of the finest scenery in this country. Perpendicular cliffs of a red color, rising among trees and underwood, among which are many of the euphorbia class, margin the stream. Several cataracts, now filled by the rain, were gushing from the highest points; these, with the graceful windings of the impetuous river, traced for some distance from the heights, combined to form a most enchanting and romantic prospect, which a short interval form rain at this time enabled me in some degree to enjoy. This is the first Amatembu village in this direction, and to the narrow limits of a native hut we were confined as close prisoners, on account of the rain, for the greater part of the day, enduring a temperature approaching to that of an oven, which for the sole benefit of our clothes,

both on and off, we were necessitated to bear. Had we not crossed the Umtata at the moment we did, it is probable that we might have been detained some days, as it is reported to be still rising. Our present distance from Bunting is estimated at forty-two miles.

Saturday, 21st.-The weather being fine, we set out at nine, but were considerably delayed in the route, several petty chiefs, who were detained by the rain from visiting Mr. Palmer (their late missionary) at the village, as previously arranged, now way-laying us on the path. Each came accompanied by several attendants-the chiefs, as we approached, placing their shields and assegais before them on the ground, and then seating themselves until we came up, the attendants of each standing the whole time close in the rear, firmly grasping the bundle of assegais on which they were leaning. I was particularly struck with the commanding and intelligent appearance of an individual in one of these groupes, whom I afterwards understood from Mr. Palmer was named Darka (brother of the head of the village where we had slept,) and whose character exactly corresponded with his expression of countenanee. He had, it appears, been a frequent visitant at the mission-house, where, it was evident, from his remarks and inquiries, that in point of intellect he was far in advance of the generality of his countrymen. So great was his thirst for knowledge, that he had requested Mr. Palmer to take him with him on his next visit to the colony, and had actually accompanied his wagon part of the way, when, on account of the breaking out of the Kafir war, it was thought imprudent for him to advance beyond Clarkebury.

The natives of the different villages near which we passed were civil, occasionally bringing amās at our request, which, though of a very inferior quality, we were glad to obtain. Although most of the baggage was distributed upon led horses, several of them knocked up, so that, unable to reach Clarkebury, as had been intended this evening, we turned aside to a wooded hill, under which were a few huts, at a quarter-past seven, where we proposed remaining until Monday, the missionary station being about ten miles distant.

Sunday, 22nd.

What sweet communion we might share,
How many hours of comfort know,
Did each another's burden bear-
Did love through all our actions flow.
How often to Emmaus led

Our ardent steps would willing speed,
To speak of One who once has bled,
That rebels might from sin be freed.

And who can tell till that great day,

When every thought shall be confessed, How many would have turned away,

But for a word in season blessed?

If, then, our hearts to God are turned―
If Jesus we have precious found,
And much of grace and goodness learned,
Let Christian charity abound.

Like Samson's wishes-though weak alone,
United, we shall strength impart.
The grace and truth which each have known,
Will cheer and comfort every heart.

Thus oft refreshed from Baca's fount,

While journeying through this vale of tears, To Pisgah's top we oft shall mount,

And gaze away our doubts and fears.

And when our souls shall one by one

Before our Father's throne appear,
The song that was on earth begun,
Shall only be completed there.

And oh, what rapture there to meet

The partners of our grief and care;
To cast our crowns at Jesus' feet,

And own 'twas grace that brought us there! Mr. Davis, unassisted by an interpreter, performed the Kafir service in front of our hut.

Monday, 23rd.-Fearing detention from the height of the Bashee, we started early. The river was, indeed, full-my interpreter and myself were the first across. He was soon swept off his legs, and only gained the opposite bank by swimming; at the same moment I was struggling against the current, scarcely able to retain my footing, when two stout fellows of the Amatembu tribe kindly came up, and placing their backs against mine, supported me through the deepest

"When thou art converted strengthen thy bre- part, and I soon after gained a rocky ledge, by thren." (Luke xxii. 32.)

What a sweet constraining power

Binds the hearts of Christians here! How it soothes each trying hour

To feel that we have friends so dear!

Bound by one law-the law of love,

They help each other by the way; The strength that they obtain above Gladly to others they convey.

All members of one glorious Head,

Each shares the pang his brother feels;

Rejoices when the trial's sped,

And owns the hand afflicts and heals.

which the channel is here divided-the other branch I was obliged to swim.

My object in preceding the party was to encourage the people who accompanied Messrs. Palmer and Davis, not one of them would attempt the passage, although two of the Amatembu had just crossed from the opposite side before their eyes. After a considerable detention, I was joined by my companions, who, at both rivers, had each been assisted by two men, and every thing being safely conveyed across, we again mounted, and soon reached the mission-house at Clarkebury. The distance from Morley is about fortysix miles.

A message, announcing our arrival, having been previously sent to Ferdana, in about a couple of

hours he made his appearance, accompanied by a respectable train, all well provided with assegais. His figure is tall and well proportioned-his counenance puerile and vacant; he approached in omewhat a formal manner, preceding his two brothers, who were closely followed by the rest of his party. The three chiefs appeared in pantherskin mantles (the fur inside,) and each carried a single assegai in his hand. How strangely do circumstances vary our relative position. I was now in amicable converse with the very people who, during my last visit to this place, are said to have been meditating my death. This account, which I have every reason to believe is correct, was brought to Bunting after I had left for Port Natal, by a native named Sotchangán, and who declared that he was himself present during the deliberation which took place on the subject before Ferdana.

How gracious is that Providence, which protects us not only from the arrow which flieth by day, but from the unknown and not less fatal machinations of our fellow-men!

twelve, having been unable to procure the horses sooner. We had not proceeded far, when we observed a number of people collected about the huts of a village we were approaching. On inquiry, we found that one of the houses had been struck by lightning two days previously, and that the witch doctor had just arrived to purify the place, which was to be effected by killing a beast, feasting, and dancing. Thorn bushes had been placed round the hut in question, which was abandoned and not again allowed to be entered. Providentially no lives had been lost. Other instances of this kind were noticed in my journey up, while passing through the Amakōsa, in all of which the houses had invariably been abandoned. It is probable that the greater part of this country will shortly be overrun with locusts; the young insects are innumerable, and in some places entirely covered the ground; insomuch, that many of the natives assured us that they should not plant corn this year, as they were not likely to benefit by the crop.

of a state of warfare may have contributed to the amount ;-the fact, however, was obvious,-at every village, and frequently by the way, heads and skeletons were strewing the ground; but chiefly in the cattle-folds, where many whole carcases were still remaining. There has been an equal mortality I am told among the colonial cattle, while the districts to the northward of the Bashee have been exempt. In the afternoon we had a drizzling rain, and being now on the skirts of the Amamaia tribe, we found the frontier villages mutually abandoned. These people, of Amatembu stock, though now independent, are a nest of freebooters in friendly alliance with their southern neighbors, the Amakōsa, and possessed of all their treacherous and pilfering propensities. So bitter are their feuds to this day with their cidevant brethren the Amatembu, that the guides sent by Ferdana to escort us to Kheeli's territory, were so apprehensive of ill treatment that they left us at this point to proceed alone. After crossing the Colosa, having travelled during the day about twenty-five miles, we took up our night's quarters in a dilapidated hut, the best that we could select, in one of these deserted villages.

Among the cattle great losses have been susTo this unpleasant subject no allusion of course tained; occasioned, as it is said, by the unusual was made; a fitter opportunity will doubtless oc-cold and heavy rains: probably, the circumstance cur for investigating this matter, as also the suspicion under which he rests of having murdered the two messengers from Bunting. To obtain from Ferdana, either by loan or by purchase, a supply of fresh horses was our aim, and the conversation on this knotty subject was long and tedious; at last he agreed to lend four as far as Kheeli's great place. In the present state of the cuntry, in daily expectation of attacks either rom the Amapondas or the Amahōash, it is probably as much as we could expect; and for which assistance I have agreed to give him a cow, which I shall endeavor to send by the first opportunity. The parley at length being ended, he retired with all his people; but although a messenger was immediately despatched for the horses, there is little hope, from the distance at which they are kept, of their arriving before to-morrow evening. A surprising change has taken place in the face of the country;-all is now green, which when last here was parched and desolate. Still, however, there is little to recommend the spot on which the missionary buildings are erected. This, I now understand from Mr. Davis, was not from choice, —another site having been selected for the purpose, but given up on Vosani's expressing a preference for the present situation. Having been so long accustomed to the scrupulous honesty of the Zoolus and Amapondas, I was not prepared for the loss of my bridle, which had suddenly disappeared from the fence of the garden, where it had been imprudently hung. I believe that the Amatembu are far less addicted to theft than their adroit neighbors, the Amakōsa; in all other respects, at least to a casual observer, they are exactly similar. It should not, however, be omitted that Ferdana has adjudged a fine of two cows to the person whom Gugu (charged with the care of the station in Mr. Davis's absence) had detected in the act of purloining a tin mug from the mission-house. Since we have been here a heavy thunder storm has set in every afternoon; they are said to be very frequent in this neighborhood.

Wednesday, 25th.-Left Clarkebury at half-past

We

Thursday, 26th.-Continued our route at sunrise, over open downs, the country both yesterday and to-day being generally bare of trees. soon, however, reached an inhabited district, which was first indicated by a bush-buck, almost exhausted, crossing our path; some dogs soon after ascended the ridge in pursuit, followed at a short distance by several natives, well provided with assegais, evidently on a hunting expedition. Having satisfied their questions respecting indaba (news,) &c., we rode on. Several other parties came up as we proceeded, all very civil; and some even approached us unarmed, although each of our native attendants carried a gun. After resting the horses for about half an hour, we again continued our route, and soon obtained a distant view of the walls of Butterworth, this missionary station having shared the fate of Morley during the recent war. As we approached

the ruins, a native upon a pack-ox, who had not before perceived us, was so suddenly surprised at our appearance, that, regardless of his beast, he instantly sprung from his back, and in a few seconds was out of sight; naturally concluding that our intentions were not the most pacific. Both here and at Morley, I had met with great kindness from the missionary families; and while riding over the bricks and rubbish of the demolished buildings, bearing evident marks of the conflagration, I felt much for them and for the cause in which they have suffered: it was indeed a melancholy satisfaction we were indulging, and we soon instinctively turned aside from the blackened walls to visit the garden, where an abundance of figs, almonds, and peaches were rapidly advancing to a state of maturity. But what delighted me the most was a luxuriant hedge of roses covered with flowers and in great beauty, the first I had seen since leaving the colony; and the very sight of which almost transported me again to my native country, though not indeed the land of the olive and the vine, still pre-eminently of the jessamine and rose.

Leaving this interesting spot, about three miles to the right we reached the present residence of Kheeli-a village containing only nine huts, all in a most wretched and dilapidated condition, and still likely to be occupied for some time without repair, as a part of the customary respect paid to the memory of a deceased chief. Shortly after our arrival, Kheeli made his appearance; it was about the time of drinking milk; his councillors and principal men soon assembled near his mother's hut, and, seating themselves on the ground, formed a semicircle round him, while he sent portions of milk to each, the baskets being first placed before him by two servants, who, strange to say, wore each a printed cloth round his waist, the first attempt at civilized attire which has yet been made by these inveterate sons of nature, and I trust will not long remain a solitary example. Kheeli is a young man of about twenty, tall and apparently of a mild disposition; somewhat graceful in his actions and of rather a Jewish expression of countenance. As soon as the important business of drinking curdled milk was ended, in which, though served late, we had not been neglected, Kheeli, with a few of his chief councillors, removed to the spot where we had been sitting at a few paces from the assembly, which gradually dispersed, and commenced a long parley. News was eagerly inquired, as well from the English camp as from their northern neighbors. Having endeavored to satisfy (for that is scarcely possible) all these various inquiries, a request on our part was made for two horses, and a mounted guide to conduct us across the Kei; but all our endeavors, urged with the promise of a present on reaching our destination, were ineffectual. "Where are horses to come from? We have none"-was the reply. "The Amatembu have stolen them-the English have taken them." In short, it had evidently been determined that, at least, we should have none. It was now proposed to leave one here which had knocked up on the journey, but in the course of this arrangement, which was agreed to, a singular coincidence occurred-this very horse being recognised by Khecli as one of his

own. It had been stolen from him by a party of Abasootu, in one of their predatory expeditions across the mountains, and had subsequently been employed by the same people in a late attack upon the Amatembu, in which they were defeated; and this, with several other of their horses, was captured by Ferdana. Had that suspicious chieftain been aware of his real pedigree, he would never have allowed him to have accompanied us on our present journey. Not only is it prohibited during the period of state mourning to renew the thatch of the most dilapidated hut, but even the wholesome influence of the besom is also forbidden; and as this village had been abandoned during the war, the condition of our floor may be better imagined than described. As soon as it was dark I made some attempt at repairing the roof, as it was threatening rain, but the thatch was too scanty and far between to do any thing effectually. In the evening an ox was sent to us to be slaughtered, which proved a very acceptable supply, as our people had been nearly a day without tasting food, and our own stock was almost exhausted.

Friday, 26th.-Having last night been promised guides to the Kei, we were anxious to proceed; but as none had yet been sent, we repaired to Nomesa's hut, where it was understood that several of the councillors, although at an unusually early hour, were assembled. Nomesa was Hinza's principal wife, and is the mother of Kheeli; and even during the life-time of her husband is said to have had great influence in the tribe. The hut was crowded; and although anxious to see this political lady, the smoke was so dense that her person was entirely concealed; this, however, was no impediment to a long conversation which soon commenced. Kheeli, who in her presence seems to have little importance, coming in at this time, and lolling carelessly in one corner of the hut, she thus addressed me, pointing to her son :-" We have no rest. You see that child-he has no place-he is a baby. I am obliged to carry him about in my teeth-his house is dead, and we are all eaten up! We wish to have a word to be at rest, that we may cultivate the ground." I replied, by reminding her "that they had already received a word to be at rest; that the English had rested; and they wished to see peace established." The councillors then spoke in confirmation of their great woman's words, and all in the same strain. They declared that they knew not why these troubles had come upon them; that they had taken nothing; and were quiet until they were "eaten up" (a common expression for being impoverished.) To a stranger to their character, and to the real facts of the case, such a pathetic and plausible appeal would doubtless have excited commiseration, and kindled a generous indignation at cruelties apparently so wantonly inflicted by a Christian and civilised nation, on one so unoffending and helpless. But as I had been already sufficiently initiated into their modes of address and arch duplicity, and was tolerably well acquainted with the causes and leading circumstances of the late war, my high sense of amor patria was by no means diminished; and had my cheek reddened at the time, it would have been occasioned by the palpable falsehoods they were striving so systematically to uphold. The horses being packed, and

very thing ready, Keeeli, with several of his people, assembled before our hut to see us go off. The favorable moment was not lost: and I was particularly delighted with the simplicity with which Mr. Davis first gave out a hymn in the native language, and then led all who were willing to join in singing the praises of Jehovah. It was a happy conclusion to our visit; surrounded, as we were, by some of the most determined and ferocious characters in all Kafir-land, it has left an impres- | sion on my mind which I shall never forget.

corps (Hottentos) at sunset, and reached King William's Town at three in the morning, where, notwithstanding the unseasonable hour, I was kindly welcomed by Mr. T. Shepstone, the government interpreter.

Saturday, 28th.-Colonel Smith, who since the termination of the war has commanded the new province, received me with great kindness, and took much interest in the situation of affairs at Port Natal, affording me, in the most handsome manner, a military escort for the remainder of my journey to Graham's Town. Here the changes effected by the late "row with Kafirs," as it was elegantly expressed to me by a colonial farmer, were still more apparent than in the line of posts

As we proceeded the country gradually improved, being more broken and clothed with trees in the ravines. Stopped to rest our horses at a spot called Shaw's Fountain, and within a few paces of the remains of the house in which William Pur-I had passed on the road. The whole appeared cell, a trader, was wantonly murdered by a native in July of the past year. As we approached the Kei, the lads watching the cattle took the alarm; and it was amusing to see the rapidity with which several herds on each side of the road were driven off into the wooded ravines. They soon, however, gained confidence; and in spite of the guns came near, and loudly called for a bazella (present.) Mounted and bearing guns across their shoulders, our native escort, for this country, had rather a respectable appearance; but what benefit we were to derive from their weapons, in the event of an attack, I have yet to learn. In defensive warfare their prowess was certainly uncalled for; but on two occasions they all dismounted, drew up in a line, and made a vigorous attack upon a flock of wild geese, which, strange to say, all flew off without leaving them even a feather for a trophy! From the quantity of rain which has recently fallen, and the state of the other rivers, we had little expectation of finding the Kei in a fordable state, and were rejoiced to perceive that it was only moderately high, enabling us to cross without dificulty. The guides could not be induced to accompany us across, but left us on the bank to return home. We were now in the new province of Adelaide (the colonial boundary, since the late war, having been extended to this river;) and as soon as all our party had gained the British side, we knelt down and offered up a prayer of thanksgiving to the God of all our mercies, by whose good providence we have been so mercifully prospered and protected in our journey. We had started this morning at twenty minutes to seven, and reached Fort Warden (the first military post,) about five miles from the river, at a quarter to four where we were kinkly received by Captain De Lancey, the officer in command. My business with his excellency the governor being urgent, Captain De Lancey kindly furnished me with an escort to the next post, and an order to be supplied there with fresh horses to King William's Town, the head quarters. My own horse, notwithstanding all his toils (having ridden him almost every day for these two months past,) came in quite fresh, and with the additional weight of saddlebags galloped in front of the whole party. Here, however, I left him to be brought on with the other led horses, my companions intending to sleep here, and proceed by more moderate stages. Being anxious, if possible, to reach Graham's Town some time to-morrow night, I set out again with my interpreter, escorted by two of the Cape

like a dream-the very name of King William's Town was to me a novelty; and what I only remembered as the quiet abode of a missionary of the London Society (Mr. Brownlie) is now metamorphosed into a military cantonment, half urban, half nomadic; here a line of mud huts; there an enclosure of tents; all however well arranged, and apparently in high effective order. That part of the mission-house which has escaped the flames is repaired, and roofing; and one room is already appropriated as an office for the transaction of business: while in the outskirts of the settlement several acres of land have been brought into cultivation, and are yielding good crops of oats, an excellent precaution where forage of this description is so difficult to be procured. After breakfasting in the colonel's markee, I resumed my journey at half-past ten. As the chain of posts, and consequently the relays of horses, were nearer together on the Fort Wiltshire road than on that which I had formerly travelled, by Trompeter's and Committee's Drift, I had an opportunity of crossing the Fish and Keiskamma rivers considerably higher up, and traversing in a fresh direction that extensive line of jungle and forest, which occupies a considerable part of the country which is intersected by the Fish river, and known throughout its whole extent (about seventy miles) by the general appellation of the "Fish River Bush." To the skirts of this forest the country is comparatively open, covered chiefly by patches of the thorny mimosa, and affording in every part most desirable sites for agricultural locations: all beyond is wild and rugged, and, I may add, sombre in the extreme. There are no relieving clifts and plashing cataracts to cheer the monotony-no curling smoke marks the approach to a single habitation; all wears a savage mournful aspect; and although the traveller is often reminded by the steepness of the route, and the sudden abruptness of the neighboring ravines, that he is traversing hills of no ordinary character: so unbroken and impervious is the green mantle which is cast over all, that he searches in vain for an object to guide his bewildered judgmennt, and at last reverts to himself and his horse as the only approximate means of fathoming the heights and chasms by which he is surrounded. To say that this was once the frontier of the colony would scarcely be credited by any military man; and the very knowledge of such a fact would at once prepare him for much of the consequent disasters which have occurred.

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