Could such languid prayers ascend? Could our hearts remain so cold? Could we thus requite our Friend? Did we but His face behold! Hear thy gracious Saviour say, And every want and doubt relieve." Sweet bequest!-though pilgrims here To uphold us with His hand! May these words our spirits cheer; With Christ so nigh, we need not fear,- Lord, I believe! yet faith bestow, Throughout the way, be Thou my guide, And tell of all thy love has wrought! And when I see thee as thou art, And nought but charity abides ;What rapture will that sight impart !— I'll seek no other bliss besides! Morning.-English service in the tent ;-Afternoon-Kafir service in the open air. Monday, 26th.-Crossed the river, and soon after another rocky stream running into it. A herd of gneu made off on our approach to the plain where we spanned out. reason to regret their absence, as nearly all were yesterday made ill by partaking of the flesh. The flavor is so similar to that of beef, that I should scarcely have known the difference; but as all suffered in the same manner, and it was not considered by the rest of the party as tougher than the meat they had been accustomed to, I have no hesitation in ascribing the cause to this new diet. A thick mist coming on, we spanned out rather earlier than usual. About an hour and a half before we bivouaced for the night we crossed a wagon track. Wednesday, 28th-Thunder and light rain during part of the night; in the morning it cleared up sufficiently to proceed. Having been so long unaccustomed to a wooded country, the note of birds, though often not very melodious, was cheering, and met the ear like the voice of an old acquaintance. Hilly country. Spanned out about one. Close to this spot was one of the treeferns so common in the neighborhood of Agate Vale. It was growing in a pit, and is the only one I have since seen. Afternoon.-Travelled until a thunder-storm, which had been long gathering among the mountains to the northward, overtook us, but were unable to find any place of shelter until after sunset, when we gained a valley by a very deep descent. Travelled twenty miles-general course, S. by E. half E. Thursday, 29th.-Prevented by the rain from leaving our last night's bivouac until the after noon; but we had not proceeded many hundred yards when the baggage-wagon was thrown over by a rock on ascending the hill, which was very slippery and uneven. As every thing was obliged to be taken out before it could be again placed on its wheels, a considerable delay was occasioned, when again en route, we passed several old footpaths, in which the foot-prints of a native were obAfternoon.-Soon after crossing the stream served. On an opposite ridge, the site of a former near which we had stopped, ant-hills were again village was distinctly traced with the different footobserved; none had been seen in the neighbor-ken open into round-topped hills, which obliged paths diverging from it;-country waved;-brohood of the Quathlamba;-one solitary gneuwe are now leaving the open downs, which they seem to prefer, and are traversing a more broken country. Crossed another stream, and soon after sunset made our bivouac; no wood but what had been collected by the way. Travelled twenty-two miles-general course, south. Tuesday, 27th.-Crossed two steep mountains, but without difficulty, as they were round topped and covered with grass. Spanned out on a valley about noon. Afternoon.-A continuation of hills, some very steep; the appearance of the country evident ly changed;-large timbers in the ravines, and many plants and flowers which grow only in the vicinity of the coast. This morning we were reduced to the necessity of cutting up a broken yoke in order to cook the breakfast, but such expedients are not now likely to be repeated. Water we have always found abundant. The gneu have now entirely deserted us, this country being ill adapted for their wild racing. Excepting that they greatly enlivened the solitude, we have no us to make many circuits to avoid the hollows be- Friday, 30th.-Unable to set out early on account of the rain. Passed the site of several villages, supposed to have been those whence Charka drove the Amapondas. Descended a very steep hill, when my wagon was all but overturned, and halted on the opposite bank of a stream running through the narrow valley. The thorny mimosa is now again common; it has not been observed further inland during this journey. Afternoon.-Made but little progress; toiled up steep hills but to descend by as difficult slopes; and again crossed the same stream, which we take to be the Umsecaba. Slate rocks are now observed in the beds of all the streams. Georgo (the leader of my wagon) has fallen in with a prize, having discovered the bones of an elephant lying among some trees near the route. two teeth, which are perfect, I have allowed him The to take for his benefit in the wagon, and feel glad at his good fortune, as he has proved himself very active and attentive. Went on till sunset. Travelled twelve miles-general course, S. half E. Saturday, 31st.-Passed a difficult but romantic defile, in the course of which we were obliged three times to cross the same river which we forded yesterday. I should greatly have enjoyed the scenery, but for the trouble and anxiety of finding a road for the wagons that followed. On leaving the river both spans were required to tow each of them up the opposite hill; notwithstanding which labor, we were unable, from the broken nature of the country, to pursue our proper course, but obliged to wind considerably to the northward, and when we spanned out had not made a better course than N. E. Travelled about twelve miles. Thus sifted, purified, and tried, The Christian's weaned from all below; More of his heart is brought to know! The fainting soul fresh courage takes, On that sure Rock in Zion laid, Though oft nor sun nor stars appear And no small tempest on us lay, 'Twas in the cloud they so much feared, Lord sanctify my every grief, We are now again in a situation of some difficulty, by the best calculation that I can make, not more than about thirty miles from the coast; but unable to reach it with wagons, without making a circuitous route. Having been disappointed in obtaining the latitude, notwithstanding I have two sextants with me; one being only cut for 131° 30; the other, a pocket one, for 125° 0', while (with an artificial horizon) an angle of at least 136° is now necessary. Having no watch to regulate distance, and having for the past month been merely guided by a small pocket compass, my computed reckoning, under such circumstances, is not likely to be very correct. By proceeding with the wagons we might be thrown farther from the coast, and the unfortunate reckoning become still more puzzled. I therefore decided on leaving them both at this place, and with the tent and a few days provisions upon pack-oxen pushing on with a small party directly for the coast, in order Monday, 2nd.-This morning left the wagons to ascertain our actual position. Should this prove, at about ten o'clock for the coast, with three packas I hope, to be in the neighborhood of the Umse-oxen and a party of eight, including myself. Decaba, I propose sending back two of the people with the necessary instructions to the party remaining with the wagons, directing them to follow, and making the best of my way to Bunting. Sunday, Nov. 1st. "Faint, yet pursuing."-(Judges viii. 4.) 'Tis thus with e'en the boldest saint, And sinks beneath the rod ! But He who wept at Lazarus' grave Touched with our weakness and our woe, And hold our footsteps up! Though oft rebuked and chasten'd here, And own it was in mercy sent! Upon thy promise stayed! In all Thy love will be displayed! Morning-English service in the tent ;-Afternoon-Kafir service in the open air. scended into the valley, which, from its intricacy, obliged us twice to cross the river which wound through it. The oxen behaved better than I had expected, and, after gaining the opposite heights, we passed the sites of several deserted villages and garden grounds. Both yesterday and to-day we have seen several of the Kafir finch, a singular bird, about the size of a sparrow, having two long tail feathers, which it sheds during the winter; the plumage is a glossy black. Although they appear to fly with an effort, their progress through the air is peculiarly graceful, the long tail regulating their speed and imparting a kind of measured dignity to all their movements. In passing through Kafir-land I saw several of these birds. Continued our route in nearly a S. E. direction, notwithstanding the thick mist and rain which had prevailed throughout the day, and having traversed a more open country, chiefly following the ridges, we descended for shelter about sunset into a deep ravine. Here the labyrinth of long grass and bushes through which it was necessary to urge our way, added to the steepness and slipperiness of the ground, occasioned a frequent packing and repacking of the oxen, so that the night came upon us before we had erected the tent or kindled a fire, although thoroughly drenched with the rain which now happily ceased. Travelled twentytwo miles-general course, S. E. Tuesday, 3rd.-The scramble to extricate our-conducting us by the shortest route to the first selves from this ravine was a trial of strength to practicable ford across the numerous rivulets which both men and oxen. In the hope of preserving lay in our way. About this time our position with one dry garment I had attempted to ride, but my regard to the coast was recognised; it appeared only saddle girth giving way nothing was left but evident that we were on the left bank of the Umto wade middle-deep in wet grass, the saddle be- secaba, and at about four o'clock we succeeded ing only prevented from slipping off by buckling in gaining the wagon track near the beach.the girth under his neck. This day also proved We had scarcely time to pitch the tent when a rainy, so that a dry thread was not to be found thunder storm came on, and, as the tide was too among us, and, fearing to remount in this state, I high for crossing, we took up our quarters here walked during the greater part of the day. In for the night. Great cause have I. indeed, for the afternoon it cleared up, and, being on an emi- thankfulness at this merciful termination of so nence at the time, a momentary glimpse of the long and so anxious a journey. The hand of my sea was discerned. The joy which this afforded God has indeed been upon us for good. The reto us all can scarcely be described, and I desire lief to my mind I can scarcely express-not that to thank my God for this earnest of success, and I ever for a moment doubted His watchful care for having thus far prospered our way. Conduct- and guidance, but I felt the responsibility of ated by an elephant path we soon after descended tempting to conduct so many persons with means through a wood into another valley; and having, apparently so inadequate. The tribes of baboons not without some difficulty, forded the stream which issued from their haunts to salute us during which flowed through it, halted for our mid-day's this day's journey were quite extraordinary. At bivouac on the opposite bank. one time I counted twenty old and young collectThe underwood is here abundant, and the na-ed together, probably, like ourselves, enjoying the ture of the country favorable for game; pheasants sunshine after the late rains. Some of the elders and partridges have been seen in great numbers were of large size, and one, who was strutting both yesterday and to-day. The romantic dells about erect, was full five feet in height. On one and ravines, which at short intervals intersect this of these occasions an interesting domestic scene beautiful district, would under other circumstances took place. On reaching the brow of a hill, some have afforded me much gratification, but unfortu- of the party had suddenly disturbed a large group nately my attention was too often drawn away by of these creatures. Their impulse and actions the floundering of the oxen and the necessary ad- were quite human; on the first alarm the mothers justment of their burdens. While partaking of hastily ran back, snatched up their young, and, our hasty meal on the banks of this stream, a bearing them in their paws, scampered off with whole community of baboons (dog-faced) made all their speed. Although the generality of the their appearance on the opposite hill; some slowly flowers in this country are scentless, there is no moving with an inquisitive look towards us; others district which I have passed throughout this jourdeliberately seating themselves upon the rocks, as ney which has not produced many of great beauty. though debating on the propriety of our uncere- In the early part several varieties of Hemanthus monious tresspass upon their domain. I counted were very common, richly carpeting the ground eight, some of which from their size must at least with their bright pink and crimson colors; the have been grandsires. On quitting this valley by Gladiolus, with its white, blue, or amber bells, is another rocky clamber, open downs were again also very general; and even among the most before us indented by rugged ravines. Stopped rocky parts the elegant Ixia pendula, bearing a for the night near a small stream which we reach- profusion of lilac blossom, makes a splendid aped soon after sunset. Travelled twenty miles-pearance. The Leontice is quite a weed in many general course, S. E. parts, but contrasts well with the foliage of the Wednesday, 4th.-Fair weather. Soon after underwood, among which it grows to a great quitting our bivouac the sea was again distinctly height. Plants of Lachenalia, bearing a cluster seen at a distance, in a direct line of not more of red pendent bells, are also very common; but than seven miles; but, although we were appa- there is one of great beauty, which, until I can rently so near, the greater part of the day was learn the botanical name, I must call the Feather consumed in finding a road to the beach. No sooner had we made a considerable circuit to avoid an impassable chasm, than our progress was again stopped by a still more precipitous ravine. Some of these were strikingly grand; and so suddenly approached that we were frequently standing on the brink of a precipice seven or eight hundred feet in depth, of the existence of which we had, at a few hundred yards distance, been wholly unconscious. Into one of the most striking of these a thread-like cataract, unbroken in its descent, was precipitated over the rocky rampart; the splash of its clear waters, as they mingled with the stream below, being only recognised by the reverberating echo, a thick screen of luxuriant wood concealing its base. During many of our wanderings this day we were indebted to our former pioneers the elephants, their paths invariably plant. The stamens are each distinctly feathered with a glossy violet down, and beautifully relieved by the bright yellow of the anthers. Its general height is about twelve or fourteen inches. During the last two days the Hæmanthus have quite enamelled the ground, and many of the plants above mentioned have also been seen. Surely Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these! Well indeed may we exclaim with the pious Psalmist-" O Lord! how manifold are thy works, in wisdom hast thou made them all." Travelled twenty miles-general course, S. S. E. Thursday 5th.-Sent two men back with directions for the wagons, and, crossing the river at the mouth, continued our route towards the Amaponda country. Near this spot the Grosvenor East Indiaman was lost in 1782. Two of the THE HEIGHTS. What radiant band of peaceful light Is that which beams so bright beneath? "Tis Umzimvoobo in his might, Spreading around his siiver wreath. guns, and several pigs of ballast, are visible at ON VIEWING THE UMZIMVOOBO FROM low water. Proceeding a little further, we passed a stranded whale, lying high up among the rocks, part of the blubber only (about the head and shoulders) having been taken off-their whitened bones are frequently seen strewed along the beach. The late heavy rains had so filled the rivers, that, although it was about the spring tides, we found the Umsecaba but barely fordable at low water, and were obliged to go considerably round in order to cross the next, though a much smaller stream. Both this and the second river to the southward of the Umsecaba are free from rocks at their entrance, and appear to be accessible for boats: in one of them, I am informed, a boat has landed for the purpose of procuring wood and water. In the evening we reached Umnooka's, 'and truly rejoiced was I again to behold the habitations of men, and the human face divine, although disfigured by red clay and ornaments of fat. My former hut was now again prepared, and I crept into it with as much satisfaction as though it had been a well-furnished lodging, more especially as I was again thoroughly wet through, and the rain was still descending. After the lapse of ten weeks since I was in this neighborhood, I had fain expected to have heard that the Kafir war was at an end; but by the representations here given, it appears to be still undecided, so that my sanguine expectations of speedily reaching the colony are again dissipated. Umnooka on this occasion retrieved his character, and treated us very handsomely. Traveiled twenty-four miles. In mountains cradled-placid still "Tis thus the living streams of grace, But soon will dawn a brighter day- And valleys shall be raised on high! And peace shall flow a mighty stream, Soon may that glorious day appear! Hasten thy chariot wheels, O Lord! Thy people's prayer in mercy hearSend forth thy light and truth abroad. As waters fill the ocean now, Then peaceful floods of joy shall flow; And every knee to Thee shall bow, And every heart with rapture glow! Friday, 6th.-On the cessation of the rain, about ten, we set forward. Judging, from the slipperiness of the ground, the steep hills, and intricate woods through which it would be necessary to pass, that but little progress would now be made by the pack-oxen, I procured two guides from the On reaching the Gümkülo, found Fakû in grand first Amaponda village we came to, and leaving consultation in the midst of a large assembly, the party to follow as they could, pushed on with seated on the ground. He met me on my apthem to Mr. Fynn's place, which I reached soon proach, and taking my hand as I alighted, again after sunset. Unfortunately, these guides, as like-seated himself, and motioned me to do the same, wise the other brought from Umnooka's to conduct the party behind, knew only the lower road, which is more thickly wooded and hilly than that which I had formerly travelled; and even this it became necessary to leave for some distance, in order to avoid a river which at this time was unfordable. The great part was a perfect scramble -so close and tangled were the trees that, in forcing a passage, both my saddle pockets were scraped off, and my poor horse, led by one of the guides, was so frequently on his haunches in a sliding attitude, that I thought it almost impossible that he could escape without a broken limb. On passing some ground sown with sweet potatoes, my two companions eagerly raked them up with sticks, rubbed off the mould, and then commenced eating them raw-their obliging offer to join them in this impromptu meal was, however, declined, in anticipation of something more digestable at the end of my journey. Saturday, 7th.-Set out early with two fresh guides. Found the Umzimvoobo considerably higher than when I last crossed-it has, I understand, already been impassable for eight or nine days. apparently highly amused at my unexpected return. After a few minutes of signs and broken Kafir, intermixed, our conference ended, and I made the best of my way to Bunting, where I ar│rived at about three o'clock, to my great satisfaction and the no small surprise of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton. Thus has mercifully ended this most anxious journey. All our grain was expended, and no other supply remained, excepting a few of the calves, which were kept in reserve for a time of need. Sunday, 15th. "Hope that maketh not ashamed."- Rom. v. 5. There is a hope that never fails- E'en in the the darkest night 'tis seen, It is that hope which faith imparts, A hope, through Christ, of pardon sealed, This is the hope the Christian knows, How sweet the inward calm that reigns, And marks the hand of mercy there! But rest and peace the storm succeeds. Thanksgiving, then, his sweet employ- With purer, brighter ardor glows. What then that meed of heavenly love, Who in their Father's presence dwell! So shall each Bochim by the way, His truth and faithfulness thy praise; Conducted the native service morning and afternoon, Monday, 16th. The large assembly in which I found Faku and his principal chiefs on the 7th, had, I understand, been convened in order that they might undergo the ceremonies previous to going out to war; and on this occasion, among other equally absurd rites, each individual received several gashes across the leg. It appears that Tangwani (Faku's brother,) in conjunction with some minor chiefs, have, contrary to Faku's wish, been making clandestine attacks upon the Amatembu; in the last, which has recently occurred, they were not only unsuccessful, but lost several men; and their opponents are now following up their success by sending out small nightly parties to steal cattle in this neighborhood. Not many nights ago the drag chain was stolen from a wagon standing close to the Mission Buildings, and the horses taken from the cattle-fold, close to the native huts, by a party of these freebooters. So much enraged was Faku on hearing the account, that he declared that the natives residing on the place should be responsible for the safety of the station; and that if anything should happen Thursday, 17th.-The locusts have been and still are very numerous in this part of the country: they had not advanced beyond the Umtata when I was last here, but have now extended their ravages to the Umzimvoobo. The Amapondas make no scruple in eating them, although they will refuse fish, deeming it unclean the usual method is to grill a number of them together on the fire. The black-beetle of this country has a particular instinct, well known I conclude to |