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Could such languid prayers ascend ! reason to regret their absence, as nearly all were Could our hearts remain so cold?
yesterday made ill by partaking of the flesh. The Could we thus requite our Friend?
flavor is so similar to that of beef, that I should Did we but His face behold!
scarcely have known the difference; but as all
suffered in the same manner, and it was not conHear thy gracious Saviour say,
sidered by the rest of the party as tougher than • My people I will never leave,”
the meat they had been accustomed to, I have no I will keep them night and day,
hesitation in ascribing the cause to this new diet. And every want and doubt relieve." A thick mist coming on, we spanned out rather
earlier than usual. About an hour and a half Sweet bequest !-though pilgrims here before we bivouaced for the night we crossed a In a dreary desert land,
wagon track. There is One who loves us near
Wednesday, 28th.—Thunder and light rain durTo uphold us with His hand!
ing part of the night ; in the morning it cleared May these words our spirits cheer;
up sufficiently to proceed. Having been so long In cloud a bow reveal :
unaccustomed to a wooded country, the note of every
birds, though often not very melodious, was cheerWith Christ so nigh, we need not fear,
ing, and met the ear like the voice of an old acHis balm can all our sorrows heal!
quaintance. Hilly country. Spanned out about
Close to this spot was one of the treeferns Lord, I believe! yet faith bestow,
so common in the neighborhood of Agate Vale. Pardon my unbelief and sin;
It was growing in a pit, and is the only one I have More of Thy love and truth I'd know
since seen. Dispel the pride that lurks within !
Afternoon.— Travelled until a thunder-storm, Throughout the way, be Thou my guide,
which had been long gathering among the mounMy earliest and my latest thought:
tains to the northward, overtook us, but were unWith Thee for ever I'd abide,
able to find any place of shelter until after sunset, And tell of all thy love has wrought!
when we gained a valley by a very deep descent.
E. half E.
Thursday, 29th.-Prevented by the rain from. What rapture will that sight impart
leaving our last night's bivouac until the after I'll seek no other bliss besides !
noon; but we had not proceeded many hundred
yards when the baggage-wagon was thrown over Morning.-English service in the tent ;-Af- by a rock on ascending the hill, which was very ternoon-Kafir service in the open air.
slippery and uneven. As every thing was obliged Monday, 26th.-Crossed the river, and soon to be taken out before it could be again placed on after another rocky stream running into it. A its wheels, a considerable delay was occasioned, herd of gneu made off on our approach to the plain when again en route, we passed several old footwhere we spanned out.
paths, in which the foot-prints of a native were obAfternoon.—Soon after crossing the stream served. On an opposite ridge, the site of a former near which we had stopped, ant-hills were again village was distinctly traced with the different footobserved ; none had been seen in the neighbor- paths diverging from it ;-country waved;-bro
ken hood of the Quathlamba ;-one solitary gneu ;
open into round-topped hills, which obliged we are now leaving the open downs, which they us to make many circuits to avoid the hollows be
tween. At sunset spanned out, and sent ten span seem to prefer, and are traversing a more broken country. Crossed another stream, and soon after
of oxen to drag in an eland that had been shot at
Travelled ten sunset made our bivouac; no wood but what had some distance from our track. been collected by the way.
miles-general course, S. by E. half E. Travelled twenty-two miles—general course,
Friday, 30th.—Unable to set out early on acsouth.
count of the rain. Passed the site of several Tuesday, 27th.-Crossed two steep mountains, villages, supposed to have been those whence but without difficulty, as they were round topped Charka drove the Amapondas. Descended a and covered with grass. Spanned out on a valley very steep hill, when my wagon was all but overabout noon.
turned, and halted on the opposite bank of a Afternoon.—A continuation of hills, some very thorny mimosa is now again common; it has not
stream running through the narrow valley. The steep; the appearance of the country evidently changed ;— large timbers in the ravines, and been observed further inland during this journey. many plants and flowers which grow only in Afternoon.—Made but little progress ; toiled uj» the vicinity of the coast. This morning we were steep hills but to descend by as difficult slopes; reduced to the necessity of cutting up a broken and again crossed the same stream, which we yoke in order to cook the breakfast, but such ex- take to be the Umsecaba. Slate rocks are now pedients are not now likely to be repeated. Water observed in the beds of all the streams. Georgo we have always found abundant. The gneu have (the leader of my wagon) has fallen in with a now entirely deserted us, this country being prize, having discovered the bones of an elephant ill adapted for their wild racing. Excepting that lying among some trees near the route. The they greatly enlivened the solitude, we have no two teeth, which are perfect, I have allowed him
to take for his benefit in the wagon, and feel glad Thus sifted, purified, and tried, at his good fortune, as he has proved himself very From all his selfishness and pride, active and attentive. Went on till sunset. Tra The Christian's weaned from all below; velled twelve miles general course, S. half E. And walks more closely with his God,
Saturday, 31st.—Passed a difficult but roman Avoids the snares on which he trod, tic defile, in the course of which we were obliged More of his heart is brought to know! three times to cross the same river which we forded yesterday. I should greatly have enjoyed The fainting soul fresh courage takes, the scenery, but for the trouble and anxiety of His most besetting sin forsakes, finding a road for the wagons that followed. On And grasps a firmer hold leaving the river both spans were required to tow On that sure Rock in Zion laid, each of them up the opposite hill; notwithstand Where all our hopes for heaven are stayed, ing which labor, we were unable, from the broken By past experience made more bold! nature of the country, to pursue our proper course, but obliged to wind considerably to the north Though oft nor sun nor stars appear ward, and when we spanned out had not made a And all around seems dark and drear, better course than N. E. Travelled about twelve And no small tempest on us lay, miles.
'Tis thine, O Lord ! the storm to calm, We are now again in a situation of some diffi And keep our trembling souls from harm, culty,—by the best calculation that I can make, And safely to the shore convey. not more than about thirty miles from the coast; but unable to reach it with wagons, without making a 'Twas in the cloud they so much feared, circuitous route. Having been disappointed in Thy brightest beams on earth appeared obtaining the latitude, notwithstanding I have two And gladdened every eye; sextants with me; one being only cut for 131° And soon with Peter we shall say, 30'; the other, a pocket one, for 125° 0', while 'Tis good that here awhile we stay, (with an artificial horizon) an angle of at least Since Thou thyself art nigh! 136° is now necessary. Having no watch to regulate distance, and having for the past month Lord ! sanctify my every grief, been merely guided by a small pocket compass, In Thee alone I'd seek relief, my computed reckoning, under such circumstan. Upon thy promise stayed ! ces, is not likely to be very correct. By proceed And when this term of trial's o'er, ing with the wagons we might be thrown farther And sin and sorrow reach no more, from the coast, and the unfortunate reckoning be In all Thy love will be displayed! come still more puzzled. I therefore decided on leaving them both at this place, and with the tent Morning-English service in the tent ;-Afterand a few days provisions upon pack-oxen pushing noon—Kafir service in the open air. on with a small party directly for the coast, in order Monday, 2nd. This morning left the wagons to ascertain our actual position. Should this prove, at about ten o'clock for the coast, with three packas I hope, to be in the neighborhood of the Umse- oxen and a party of eight, including myself. Decaba, I propose sending back two of the people scended into the valley, which, from its intricacy, with the necessary instructions to the party re- obliged us twice to cross the river which wound maining with the wagons, directing them to fol- through it. The oxen behaved better than I had low, and making the best of my way to Bunting. expected, and, after gaining the opposite heights,
we passed the sites of several deserted villages Sunday, Nov. 1st.
and garden grounds. Both yesterday and to-day
we have seen several of the Kafir finch, a singular "Faint, yet pursuing.”—(Judges viii. 4.) bird, about the size of a sparrow, having two long
tail feathers, which it sheds during the winter; How aptly does this word describe
the plumage is a glossy black. Although they The wrestling soul by conflict tried, appear to fly with an effort, their progress through Yet stayed upon his God !
the air is peculiarly graceful, the long tail regu'Tis thus with e'en the boldest saint,
lating their speed and imparting a kind of measurLeft to himself he can but faint,
ed dignity to all their movements. In passing And sinks beneath the rod !
through Kafir-land I saw several of these birds.
Continued our route in nearly a S. E. direction, But He who wept at Lazarus' grave notwithstanding the thick mist and rain which had Vouchsafes his ready arm to save,
prevailed throughout the day, and having traAnd mitigate the cup;
versed a more open country, chiefly following the Touched with our weakness and our woe, ridges, we descended for shelter about sunset into A balm for all He can bestow,
a deep ravine. Here the labyrinth of long grass And hold our footsteps up!
and bushes through which it was necessary to
urge our way, added to the steepness and slipperiThough oft rebuked and chasten'd here, ness of the ground, occasioned a frequent packing We kiss the rod with filial fear,
and repacking of the oxen, so that the night came And own it was in mercy sent !
upon us before we had erected the tent or kindled And though cast down and oft perplexed, a fire, although thoroughly drenched with the rain We reap the blessing that's annexed, which now happily ceased. Travelled twentyAnd deeper of our sins repent!
two miles-general course, S. E.
Tuesday, 3rd.—The scramble to extricate our conducting us by the shortest route to the first selves from this ravine was a trial of strength to practicable ford across the numerous rivulets which both men and oxen. In the hope of preserving lay in our way. About this time our position with one dry garment I had attempted to ride, but my regard to the coast was recognised ; it appeared only saddle girth giving way nothing was left but evident that we were on the left bank of the Umto wade middle-deep in wet grass, the saddle be- secaba, and at about four o'clock we succeeded ing only prevented from slipping off by buckling in gaining the wagon track near the beach.the girth under his neck. This day also proved We had scarcely time to pitch the tent when a rainy, so that a dry thread was not to be found thunder storm came on, and, as the tide was too among us, and, fearing to remount in this state, I high for crossing, we took up our quarters bere walked during the greater part of the day. In for the night. Great cause have I, indeed, for the afternoon it cleared up, and, being on an emi- thankfulness at this merciful termination of so nence at the time, a momentary glimpse of the long and so anxious a journey. The hand of my sea was discerned. The joy which this afforded God has indeed been upon us for good. The reto us all can scarcely be described, and I desire lief to my mind I can scarcely express not that to thank my God for this earnest of success, and I ever for a moment doubted His watchful care for having thus far prospered our way. Conduct and guidance, but I felt the responsibility of ated by an elephant path we soon after descended tempting to conduct so many persons with means through a wood into another valley; and having, apparently so inadequate. The tribes of baboons not without some difficulty, forded the stream which issued from their haunts to salute us during which flowed through it, halted for our mid-day's this day's journey were quite extraordinary. At bivouac on the opposite bank.
one time I counted twenty old and young collectThe underwood is here abundant, and the na- ed together, probably, like ourselves, enjoying the ture of the country favorable for game ; pheasants sunshine after the late rains. Some of the elders and partridges have been seen in great numbers were of large size, and one, who was strutting both yesterday and to-day. The roinantic dells about erect, was full five feet in height. On one and ravines, which at short intervals intersect this of these occasions an interesting domestic scene beautiful district, would under other circumstances took place. On reaching the brow of a hill, some have afforded me much gratification, but unfortu- of the party had suddenly disturbed a large group nately my attention was too often drawn away by of these creatures. Their impulse and actions the floundering of the oxen and the necessary ad- were quite human ; on the first alarm the mothers justment of their burdens. While partaking of hastily ran back, snatched up their young, and, our hasty meal on the banks of this stream, a bearing them in their paws, scampered off with whole community of baboons (dog-faced) made all their speed. Although the generality of the their appearance on the opposite hill; some slowly flowers in this country are scentless, there is no moving with an inquisitive look towards us; others district which I have passed throughout this jourdeliberately seating theniselves upon the rocks, as ney which has not produced many of great beauty. though debating on the propriety of our uncere. In the early part several varieties of Hæmanthus monious tresspass upon their domain. I counted were very common, richly carpeting the ground eight, some of which from their size must at least with their bright pink and crimson colors ; the have been grandsires. On quitting this valley by Gladiolus, with its white, blue, or amber bells, is another rocky clamber, open downs were again also very general; and even among the most before us indented by rugged ravines. Stopped rocky parts the elegant Ixia pendula, bearing a for the night near a small stream which we reach- profusion of lilac blossom, makes a splendid aped soon after sunset. Travelled twenty miles- pearance. The Leontice is quite a weed in many general course, S. E.
parts, but contrasts well with the foliage of the Wednesday, 4th. Fair weather. Soon after underwood, among which it grows to a great quitting our bivouac the sea was again distinctly height. Plants of Lachenalia, bearing a cluster seen at a distance, in a direct line of not more of red pendent bells, are also very common; but than seven miles; but, although we were appa- there is one of great beauty, which, until I can rently so near, the greater part of the day was learn the botanical name, I must call the Feather consumed in finding a road to the beach. No plant. The stamens are each distinctly feathered sooner had we made a considerable circuit to with a glossy violet down, and beautifully relieved avoid an impassable chasm, than our progress was by the bright yellow of the anthers. lis general again stopped by a still more precipitous ravinc. height is about twelve or fourteen inches. During Some of these were strikingly grand; and so sud- the last two days the Hæmanthus have quite enadenly approached that we were frequently stand melled the ground, and many of the plants above ing on the brink of a precipice seven or eight mentioned have also been seen. Surely Solomon hundred feet in depth, of the existence of which in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these! we had, at a few hundred yards distance, been Well indeed may we exclaim with the pious wholly unconscious. Into one of the most striking Psalmist—“O Lord! how manifold are thy works, of these a thread-like cataract, unbroken in its in wisdom hast thou made them all." descent, was precipitated over the rocky rampart; Travelled twenty miles-general course, S. the splash of its clear waters, as they mingled S. E. with the stream below, being only recognised by Thursday 5th.-Sent two men back with directhe reverberating echo, a thick screen of luxuriant tions for the wagons, and, crossing the river at wood concealing its base. During many of our the mouth, continued our route towards the Amawanderings this day we were indebted to our for- ponda country. Near this spot the Grosvenor mer pioneers the elephants, their paths invariably East Indiaman was lost in 1782. Two of the
guns, and several pigs of ballast, are visible at ON VIEWING THE UMZIMVOOBO FROM low water. Proceeding a little further, we passed
THE HEIGHTS. a stranded whale, lying high up among the rocks, part of the blubber only (about the head and What radiant band of peaceful light shoulders) having been taken off-their whitened Is that which beams so bright beneath? bones are frequently seen strewed along the beach. 'Tis Umzimvoobo in his might, The late heavy rains had so filled the rivers, that, Spreading around his süver wreath. although it was about the spring tides, we found the Umsecaba but barely fordable at low water, In mountains cradled-placid still and were obliged to go considerably round in order His faithful breast their image holds; to cross the next, though a much smaller stream.
He seems to stray against his will
, Both this and the second river to the southward
Entangled in their rocky folds ! of the Umsecaba are free from rocks at their entrance, and appear to be accessible for boats: in
'Tis thus the living streams of grace, one of them, I am informed, a boat has landed for
Though straitened in their passage, glide; the purpose of procuring wood and water.
Opposed-obstructed—still they trace In the evening we reached Umnooka's, and Their heavenward course, whate'er betide. truly rejoiced was I again to behold the habita. tions of men, and the human face divine, although But soon will dawn a brighter daydisfigured by red clay and ornaments of fat. My And faith discerns the promise nighformer hut was now again prepared, and I crept When every mountain shall decay, into it with as much satisfaction as though it had And valleys shall be raised on high! been a well-furnished lodging, more especially as I was again thoroughly wet through, and the rain And peace shall flow a mighty stream, was still descending. After the lapse of ten Till all the earth with joy resound; weeks since I was in this neighborhood, I had fain And rays of righteousness shall beam, expected to have heard that the Kafir war was Where darkness to be felt was found at an end; but by the representations here given, it appears to be still undecided, so that my san Soon may that glorious day appcar! guine expectations of speedily reaching the colony Hasten thy chariot wheels, O Lord ! are again dissipated. Umnooka on this occasion
Thy people's prayer in mercy hearretrieved his character, and treated us very hand Send forth thy light and truth abroad. somely. Traveiled twenty-four miles.
Friday, 6th.—On the cessation of the rain, As waters fill the ocean now, about ten, we set forward. Judging, from the Then peaceful floods of joy shall flow ; slipperiness of the ground, the steep hills, and in And every knee to Thee shall bow, tricate woods through which it would be necessary And every heart with rapture glow! to pass, that but little progress would now be made by the pack-oxen, I procured two guides from the On reaching the Gümkūlo, found Fakü in grand first Amaponda village we came to, and leaving consultation in the midst of a large assembly, the party to follow as they could, pushed on with seated on the ground. He met me on my apthem to Mr. Fynn's place, which I reached soon proach, and taking my hand as I alighted, again after sunset. Unfortunately, these guides, as like-seated himself, and motioned me to do the same, wise the other brought from Umnooka's to con- apparently highly amused at my unexpected reduct the party behind, knew only the lower road, turn. After a few minutes of signs and broken which is more thickly wooded and hilly than that Kafir, intermixed, our conference ended, and I which I had formerly travelled; and even this it made the best of my way to Bunting, where I ar. became necessary to leave for some distance, in rived at about three o'clock, to my great satisfacorder to avoid a river which at this time was un- tion and the no small surprise of Mr. and Mrs. fordable. The great part was a perfect scramble Tainton. Thus has mercifully ended this most —so close and tangled were the trees that, in anxious journey. All our grain was expended, forcing a passage, both my saddle pockets were and no other supply remained, excepting a few of scraped off, and my poor horse, led by one of the the calves, which were kept in reserve for a time guides, was so frequently on his haunches in a of need. sliding attitude, that I thought it almost impossible that he could escape without a broken limb. On
Sunday, 15th. passing some ground sown with sweet potatoes, my two companions eagerly raked them up with Hope that maketh not ashamed.”- Rom. v. 5. sticks, rubbed off the mould, and then commenced eating them raw—their obliging offer to join them There is a hope that never fails in this impromptu meal was, however, declined, A sure and certain stay; in anticipation of something more digestable at Not all the grief that life assails the end of my journey.
Can dim that heavenly ray. Saturday, 7th.-Set out early with two fresh guides.
Found the Umzimvoobo considerably E'en in the the darkest night 'tis seen, higher than when I last crossed—it has, I under. And brightest then appears ; stand, already been impassable for eight or nine The very clouds that intervene days.
Reflect the light that cheers.
It is that hope which faith imparts,
of the station, and that if anything should happen By Jesus' blood made sure ;
either to Mr. Tainton or his family, they should That glows within our aching hearts, answer with their lives. Since the marriage of And makes us feel securehis daughter to Tpai, a more friendly feeling se
to exist between the Amapondas and Amahoash, A hope, through Christ, of pardon sealed,
who are now said to have arranged a simultaneous Of strength sufficient for our day, attack upon all the tribes on the sea coast, beThat grace shall make each trial yield tween the Umtagychi and the Bashee rivers, proExperience in the heavenly way.
fessedly to chastise this daring insult upon his This is the hope the Christian knows,
" children.” This morning I had ridden to the Whle journeying through this vale of tears ; surprised at the arrival, a few minutes previously,
Gümkola; and on my return was most agreeably His solace 'rnid the deepest woes,
of Mr. Palmer's servant, announcing the near apThe antidote for all his fears.
proach of himself and Mr. Davis (Wesleyan misHow sweet the inward calm that reigns,
sionaries) direct from the colony. Attended When we can cast on God each care ! by five other mounted natives, they soon after No trial harms--for faith explains,
made their appearance; and their cordial welcome, And marks the hand of mercy there!
circumstanced as we were, may well be imagined.
All assembled to congratulate them, not only on Full well he knows not aught shall fail their safe arrival, but on being the voluntary Of ev'ry promise that he pleads ;
bearers of the first intelligence of our release from The tempest may awhile prevail
a state little differing from captivity. NotwithBut rest and peace the storm succeeds. standing all the reports of the natives to the con
trary, it appears that a treaty has been entered Thanksgiving, then, his sweet employ into with Kheeli ; and since the 10th of May last
With grateful praise his heart o'erflows; all actual hostilities have ceased. The country, The hope that grief could not destroy, however, was in too unsettled a state, and the With purer, brighter ardor glows. feelings of the intermediate tribes too much excit
ed to have rendered it prudent for any, excepting What then that meed of heavenly love,
an armed force, to have traversed the country preWhich through eternity shall swell ;
viously. They had been sixteen days on the road The joy of ransomed souls above, Who in their Father's presence dwell !
-purposed a speedy return; and I felt happy in
the opportunity thus offered me of accompanying Oh think, my soul, on that bright day,
them back to Graham's Town. In the midst of And, though oft fainting, follow still, this pleasing intelligence heavy tidings have The promise will not long delay
reached me, for which, however, I was not altoJesus will every word fulfil.
gether unprepared. My valued friend, Mr. Ber
kin, is no more !-the vessel which conveyed him So shall each Bochim by the way,
from Port Natal, in March last, having never been To grace an Ebenezer raise,
heard of since. I have thus lost a most esteemed And God alone will be thy stay
friend and companion ; but I doubt not he has His truth and faithfulness thy praise ;
gained an immortal inheritance undefiled, and that And when from earthly trials freed,
fadeth not away. So unexpected a termination Thou wilt be blessed with Christ indeed ! of his mortal career calls loudly upon me also to
“prepare to meet my God!" What, though no Conducted the native service morning and earthly memorial shall record the day or the place afternoon,
in which he exchanged his tabernacle of clay for Monday, 16th.-The large assembly in which I a house not made with hands, eternal in the heafound Fakū and his principal chiefs on the 7th, vens—his mental acquirements, his amiable char. had, I understand, been convened in order that acter, and, above all, his genuine piety, will emthey might undergo the ceremonies previous to balm his memory, and render it dear to all who going out to war; and on this occasion, among were privileged with his acquaintance; and his other equally absurd rites, each individual received name is already enrolled among those of whom, several gashes across the leg. It appears that in the language of inspiration, it has been said, Tangwāni (Fakū's brother,) in conjunction with “ These all died in faith.” “ The righteous man some minor chiefs, have, contrary to Faku's wish, perisheth, and no man layeth it to heart; and merbeen making clandestine attacks upon the Ama- ciful men are taken away, none considering that tembu; in the last, "which has recently occurred, the righteous is taking away from the evil to come. they were not only unsuccessful, but lost several He shall enter into rest..”—Isaiah, lvii. 1, 2. men ; and their opponents are now following up Thursday, 17th.-The locusts have been and their success by sending out small nightly parties still are very numerous in this part of the country: to steal cattle in this neighborhood. Not many they had not advanced beyond the Umtata when nights ago the drag chain was stolen from a I was last here, but have now extended their rawagon standing close to the Mission Buildings, vages to the Umzimvoobo. The Amapondas and the horses taken from the cattle-fold, close to make no scruple in eating them, although they the native huts, by a party of these freebooters. will refuse fish, deeming it unclean: the usual So much enraged was Fakū on hearing the ac- method is to grill a number of them together on count, that he declared that the natives residing the fire. The black-beetle of this country has on the place should be responsible for the safety a particular instinct, well known I conclude to