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In the river are some good fish, one of which was my present journey, which does not admit of any caught. As it is rather an extraordinary event to unnecessary delay, I should not certainly have see wagons in this part, we were soon surrounded passed so near without paying these extraordinary by the whole male population; while the women, people a visit. patient creatures ! set heartily to work to grind The erroneous appellation of “ Bushmen," by corn and bake loaves for the journey, the prospect which the Inthlangwăin are commonly known at of a few yards of dungaree and some bunches of Port Natal, has obtained, from the circumstance beads calling forth all their energies.
of their having acquired the method of poisoning Having already made acquaintance with Foortu the assegais which they use in killing the elephant at Berea, I spent some little time in his hut, in and other wild animals, from a party of wandering order to obtain what information he possessed re- Bushmen with whom they were occasionally assospecting the country, we were about to traverse. ciated during their residence on the Umzimvoobo. Unfortunately, their hunting expeditions had been On asking foortu, in presence of several of his chiefly confined to the intermediate country be- people, whether he should like to have a “Teacher" tween this and the sea, ranging from the Umgăni residing with him, he said, “I should rejoice;"
and, to the Umzimvoobo ; they said they had in some after explaining the object of my present journey, instances been nearly to the Quathlamba, but and the expectation I had of a missionary being know of no passes through those mountains, nor eventually sent to his people, he replied, "I canhad they even heard of inhabitants in any of the not believe that it will be so ; it is what I desire intervening districts. These people originally to see, and that which would make me glad."lived high up on the right bank of the Tugăla, On the subject of religion they are equally as dark whence they were driven, about fifteen years as their neighbors the Zoolus. They acknowsince, by the devastating wars of Charka. The ledged, indeed, a traditionary account of a Supreme name of this village is Doomázoolu, or Thunder- Being, whom they called Oūkoolukoolu, (literally ing Heavens, and, with the other nine, contains the Great-Great) but knew nothing further refrom 300 to 400 men; and as each on an average specting him, than that he originally issued from has three wives, the whole population may be es- the reeds, created men and cattle, and taught timated at about 3000. The name of Charka, ac- them the use of the assegai. They knew not cording to Foortu's account, was not even known how long the issitoota, or spirit of a deceased perto them until the approach of his army was an- son, existed after its departure from the body, but nounced, and they were eventually obliged to attributed every untoward occurrence to its inabandon their country, when, after wandering for Auence, slaughtering a beast to propitiate its favor some time, they settled on the Umzimvoobo; but on every occasion of severe sickness, &c. As is even there they found no respite, the Amakoash customary among all these nations, a similar offerunder Maddegan falling upon them and killing their ing is made by the ruling chief to the spirit of his cheif Nombed (father to Foortu,) who fell by the immediate ancestor preparatory to any warlike or hand of Tpai. This occurred about five years ago, hunting expedition, and it is to the humor of this and obliged them to seek their present asylum, capricious spirit that every degree of failure or which, after enduring many hardships, several of
success is ascribed.
They listened with much their people dying from actual starvation, they ef- attention while I informed them what the Scripfected. They describe themselves as having been ture said respecting the power, the wisdom, and formerly a powerful nation, the only remains of the love of God, the immortality of the soul, the which at present consist of twenty-five villages,-- resurrection of the body, and the day of final judg. ten here, ten more on this side of the Umgáni, ment; but an audible laugh instantly proceeded and five on the other, all under the control of from all who were present, on my telling them that Foortu, and may probably amount to between 7,000 God had declared in his Word that man's heart and 8000 souls. The refugees so frequently to be was full of sin. This I have always found the met with scattered among all the tribes from the most difficult subject to explain, even to those who colonial frontier to the Umzimvoobo, and especially have had frequent opportunities of instruction; I at the missionary stations in those districts, and was not, therefore, greatly surprised at this slight who are known under the general name of “Fingu” interruption, which was merely an expression of (literally wanderer,) are the remnants of the astonishment. various nations formerly inhabiting this extensive tract of country, the greater part of whom have cloth for an ingoobo, he paid me what doubtless
Having presented Foortu with a piece of broad. been destroyed either by famine or the assegai. he considered as a high compliment, by styling me, On the bank of the Umčamás, not quite a day's in his return of thanks, the “ Black Chief.” journey from hence, towards the mouth is a remarkable rocky defile, which has long been cele
These people are not only industrious, but parbrated as the Thermopylae of this part of Africa, ticularly friendly to Europeans, and in every rehaving been as courageously defended by a chief spect offer a most encouraging field for missionary called Namabunga, and who, with a handful of labor; may it please the Lord of the harvest io men, successfully opposed the whole force that incline the hearts of some among his devoted serCharka could bring against them. The gallant vants to visit this secluded valley, and willingly Namabũnga has since fallen in an affray with the submit to spend and be spent in directing these Inthlangwáin, and only nine of the original party
wild mountaineers to the Lamb of God, the Sa. Row remain, who, with their wives and children, viour of sinners. still retain their rocky fastness, the proud and Tuesday, 29th.—This morning, I sat till I was melancholy wreck of a brave and unconquered tired in front of my wagon, dispensing beads in
Were it not for the important objects of exchange for various articles, which were brough
for purchase, such as ezinqua, amas, ground beans,* Wednesday, 30th.- Previously to lightening the and Kafir-corn. The crowd, though noisy, were stranded wagon, which I had directed, one more respectful ; each in turns delivering the contents effort was made ; and to my no small surprise I of the calabash or basket, and as quietly awaiting soon perceived, by the loud cracking of the whip, the payment in return. In the very height of the that they were once more under weigh, and shortly barter, a bush-buck was espied on an opposite hill, afterwards my lumbering consort made her apwhich instantly induced a strong party of men, pearance alongside. From this elevation, where accompanied by their dogs, to hurry off in pur- we remained for some time to rest the harassed suit. Assegais were hastily snatched up, and oxen, the prospect is striking ;-mountains in all away they went, dispersing themselves in all di- directions, with the Umcāmas in graceful windrections. It was amusing to observe the rapidity ings, forcing its way through their rocky ravines, with which, in a few minutes, they had crossed until lost among the rugged acclivities of Namathe river and were clambering, among rocks and būnga. We are now fairly entered upon the bushes, the slopes of the mountain beyond ;-the mountains, and although, by the circuitous route women around the wagon, forgetting for a while it has been necessary to take, we have travelled their beads and dungaree, and eagerly employed about eighty-five miles, the actual distance in a in tracing the buck with their hands and eyes until direct line from Port Natal cannot, I should think, concealed from their view, seemed quite to enjoy be more than fifty on a true course nearly due the sport. Three bucks were killed and brought west. in by the hunting-party in the course of the after Having obtained two men from Foortu, as guides
Last night, while conversing with Foortu to a ford high up on the Umzimcoolu, we conand some of his principal people, they gave an tinued our journey about ten o'clock, still ascendamusing account of an idea, which, until they had ing. A less tedious and difficult road, I doubt not, seen white men, they had previously entertained will eventually be found; but it was not until we respecting them. It was reported that these had surmounted the steepest part that a more acstrange beings had, on some occasion or other, cessible route seemed apparent on the left. As fallen from the sky, but not with their full com- it will be convenient for the sake of reference to plement of limbs, but half the usual number of supply names to a few points during the present legs, arms, and eyes being sufficient for their use; journey, I have ventured to call this “Mount --moreover, they had the peculiar faculty of blow- Clamber,” an appellation which I should appreing leaden balls with the breath of their mouths hend few who have reached the top will be inclin.
from the muzzles of their guns! Surprising facts ed to dispute as unappropriate. Thus far we have | these, which they now acknowledge to have been been pursuing a partially beaten track, dignified
a base imposition. I was happy to find that they in Port Natal phraseology by the name of a road; I give as little credence to the stories respecting but here we have only the faint traces of some
Oakoolukoolu, observing that as it appears their Dutch wagons, which about twelve months ago forefathers had no direct communication with him, crossed these mountains on their return to the they have no reliance upon the statements which Colony from Port Natal, and these only occasionhave been handed down to them, and that they ally to be discovered by a practised eye. are desirous to be informed on the subject. In Having now passed what may be termed the their language, habits, buildings, and appearance, only “oasis" by the way, the solitary wilderness
they are exactly similar to the Zoolus, with one is again before us; but as the day proved rainy, : important exception—the heads of the women are we made but little progress, and out-spanned again
not shorn, but usually dressed after the Amaponda at one. fashion. The men are fond of wearing strings of Saturday, October 3rd.—Until this morning we white beads round the head, passing just below have been weather-bound, detained by the rain ; the eyes and resting on the bridge of the nose, and I have been as it were in solitary confinewhich at a distance give them a very wild appear- ment, scarcely able to leave my wagon for an inance. I have also remarked several of the Zoolus stant during the whole time, the rain falling in similarly decorated. Every thing being arranged, torrents with little interruption, and accompanied we set out, though late this afternoon, and almost with much thunder and lightning. Last night immediately began to ascend a steeper mountain was so tempestuous, that the tent was blown over than any I have yet climbed with a wagon.— and could not again be pitched, and I was in Notwithstanding fourteen oxen were yoked to hourly expectation that the tilt of my wagon, cach, the united strength of both spans was only which was leaking down upon my bed, would sufficient to convey mine (the least encumbered) have shared the same fate. Independent of the to the top; all our efforts to raise the other abové discomfort of travelling in rainy weather, it is midway were ineffectual. The night had closed highly imprudent when on a long journey, as the in; thunder was pealing among the mountains ; necks of the oxen soon became sore, and they and, although there was not a spot near the lower are thereby rendered unfit for use for several days. wagon sufficiently level to pitch the tent for the The two guides, who had wisely returned to their people, they were obliged to remain there until village at the commencement of the rain, rejointhe morning, the wagon resting upon the slope ed us some time after we had started this mornwith both wheels locked; and, to an observer ing, and reported that the Umcamas suddenly from below, to all appearance suspended in the air. had risen and was now overflowing its banks.
Proceeded in a westerly direction over a continu* A native, I believe, of De la Goa Bay; the plant ation of rounded open downs without trees. is low, and the beans are produced at the root; they From this high level we obtained the first view are very nutritious.
of the Quathlamba mountains, extending appa
rently in one continued range from N.E. to s. Join then, my soul, in that amen, W., presenting a very broken and rugged outline, Which claims the promise as thine own, with much snow still remaining on their summits. Plead it in prayer,—and plead again While endeavoring to cross a small mountain Rest not until its power be known. rill, the baggage-wagon sunk to the axles in the mud; twice the tractow* was broken in the en When Christ departs, what joy remains ? deavour to urge it forward, and it was not until it All then is darkness and despair ! had been actually dug out with great difficulty, Vexation marks our toils and pains that it was at length extricated.
'Tis only light when He is there! spanned out during the middle of the day, now delightfully cool since the late storm. This morn
Oh, let me then with Him abideing saw an eland, and several bucks and par
The rock on which my all I build ; tridges. In the afternoon, we fell in with a large
No other friend I need beside, herd of “ hartebeests," but could not approach
In Christ my wants are all fulfilled. them near enough for a shot; they are nearly as large as the eland, but with a longer neck, which And death-oh bliss ! shall only rend they carry more erect. In shape they are more
The veil that now conceals his face; like the fallow-deer, with large palmated antlers.
And I shall then behold my Friend Observing by my glass, what I conceived to be For ever nigh-redeemed by grace! an opening in the snowy range, bearing about W. by N., I resolved, if possible, to inake that Morning. - English service in the tent ;point, in the hope of finding a practicable pass Afternoon.-Kafir ditto in the open air. for the wagons. As the upper ford on the Um Tuesday, 6th. On account of yesterday's rain, zimcoolu would oblige us to keep too much to the we were unable to proceed until this morning. S.W., I gave up the intention of following the The man who went for the cattle on Sunday track of the Dutch wagons thus far, and resolved evening saw a lioness with four whelps, lying to make the best of my way across the ridges in down at no great distance from them, evidently the direction proposed. The frequent necessity watching an opportunity to seize upon a stragof walking in front to inspect the country before gler. When he appeared, they rose and made the wagons came up, although very fatiguing, slowly off
, occasionally stopping and looking created a great deal of interest, but it prevented round, while he was occupied in driving the herd me from finding a suitable spot for our Sunday's towards the wagons—unaccustomed to such comhalt until long after the sun had gone down. We panions, my horse had wisely made off, and was spanned out on a steep ridge, overlooking a
not found again until after we had set out. The rugged valley, in which were two streams, called Doomāzoolu guides, confessing that they had no by the guides the Inkonzo and Ungangwăni; further knowledge of the country, were this mornboth, as they state, branches of the Uinzimcoolu, ing dismissed, and by them I took the opportunity and uniting with that river at no great distance of sending back the cow and calf, to be delivered from our present station. The latter, which is the into the charge of Foortu, and forwarded to Port most distant, is the larger stream.
Natal, when sufficiently recovered. I was not Distance travelled about twenty-six miles. altogether sorry at this necessity (the milk having Gencral course, west.
failed for some days,) deeming it generally best
on expeditions of this kind, that all should fare Sunday, 4th.
alike, and having from the first some little com
punctions on the decided selfishness of this priLo, I am with you alway, even unto the end of
vate supply: Soon after leaving the heights, the world. Amen."-(Matthew xxviii. 20.)
where we had spent the last two days, the bag. What rich mines of endless treasure
gage-wagon again stuck in crossing a brook; the
late heavy rains having softened the ground so Does the word of God contain ! Free and boundless without measure,
much, that the four wheels were almost engulfed.
The attempt to drag it back, by applying the Every promise sure and plain.
fourteen-ox power to the rear, was ineffectual, as
the fore axle rested on the bank. The handle One there is above the rest, Sweeter than the sweetest there ;
of the spade was broken in the endeavor to pare
this down; and after all, it was found necessary Of that one alone possessed,
to unload the wagon, and then, by digging a pas. All their fulness we shall share !
sage in front, to drag it through in the usual man
ner. Spanned out by one. Observed several Hear thy gracious Saviour speak, “Lo, I am with you to the end !”
yellow-wood and other timber trees on the moun. Though you are helpless, poor, and weak,
tain slopes and ravines, but as yet we had been
chiefly wending along high ridges through an On me you always may depend.
open country. In many places wild sage, mint, What light and life these words contain !
rue, and parsley, are abundant : patches and All that sinners e'er can need;
single plants of the common English fern, here A balm for every grief and pain,
called como-como, are found in every part of this A rich inheritance indeed!
country, and are in great request in the neighbor.
hood of inhabited places, the root having been • Hide rope, passing between the oxen from the found to be a successful remedy against those inpole, and to which the yokes are attached.
ternal derangements to which, from the necessity
of eating meat without salt, and a long continu To check your speed—for strange to say, ance of milk diet, the natives are peculiarly lia You're rudely hurled sometimes alongble. The broken nature of the country, and the A steep declivity may lay continuation of a rocky ridge, impassable for wa Across the path you 're journeying on; gons, obliged us to make a great circuit to the In serpent windings to and fro, northward, so that at our evening bivouac but The skillful leader makes them go. little progress had been made in the desired direction. Distance travelled about nineteen miles And dust and stones alike are cast general course, N. N. W.
To check their mad career awhilePerhaps I may here be permitted to introduce
An avalanche-you gain at last, the divertisement of a rainy day.
By sheer momentum, the defile;
Your wheels would circle in the air.
And oh, what barbarous Dutch I've heard,
Fit language for an ox's ear; Ye locomotive sons of travel,
By all this jargon is preferred, Whose pastime is to scour the land,
When they would make their cattle hear; Listen awhile while I unravel
And, with the harsher whip between,
Well suits the wild,—the desert scene.
All is not fair that cheers the eye
Some treacherous bog engulfs the wheel, In our antipodes of ease,
Nor house nor tree for miles are nigh; If comfort you would still combine
And though the pelting storm you feel,
Your whole effects are strewed around,
And there perhaps for hours you wait,
Soaked in the rain, and ankle deep, No turnpikes here, and scarce a road
To mark the lightened omnium's fate, Still on the cumbrous omnium moves,
And hail it issuing from the deep; By twelve or fourteen oxen towed,
And then if you have aught that's dry,
You 're better off than hapless I.
Such, tourists, are the joys we boast,
Without the light champaign tocheer; Resigned and patient you must be,
Yet we can pledge a blithsome toast : For bumps and tossings you will meet ;
The mountain streamlet murmurs near, Sometimes you'll think yourself at sea,
And bumpers to your health we drink,
And only ask-on us you'll think!
Wednesday, 7th.—Passed through a very fine
country, skirted on the right by a small streamFor headlong you will seem to go,
open downs, with well-watered fats between, and Like magnets dipping near the pole, timber in patches on several of the mountain While currents through your boxes flow, slopes. Saw a heard of hartebeests, but they The oxen scarcely in control
all ran off before we were within grin-shot. The Now scrambling—falling-swimming now, tails of these animals are similar to that of a horse, As through the rapid stream you plough. and, when at full speed, flow behind them with
fine effect--they do not spring, but, like the And when the nether bank you mount,
eland, go off at a trot or gallop. Spanned out Like some huge mammoth stranded there,
A remarkable mountain has been Awhile you'll hang—for drivers count
visible in the Quathlamba range nearly the whole 'Tis best to pause for change of air,
morning, bearing north-west; and from its singuSuspended on a steep ascent,
larly indented outline, I have been induced to name Lest haply the wholc team be spent.
it the Giant's Cup. This afternoon, having for some
time been traversing high open downs, in a direcCrack goes the whip—a passage breaks
tion nearly due west, we were suddenly stopped Through tangled boughs, and reeds and grass; secluded valleys, through which a river was wind.
by abrupt precipices, overlooking some beautifully The sea-cow*, scared, her haunt forsakes, And cranes shriek loudly as you pass,
ing, which I take to be the Ungänguäni. Obliged And loosened rocks in fragınents strew
to turn considerably to the northward, and soon The opening you have struggled through.
after sunset stopped on the bank of the same river, at a point where it sweeps the steep base of a rockyhill
, which opposes itself to its course in a Hippopotamus (so called by the Dutch and colo-horse-shoe form. Although on the open grounds pists.
not a twig was to be seen, the banks of this stream
furnished us with abundance of firewood. Dis- bank. By measuring the wagon and tractow, tance travelled about twenty-six miles-general and allowing for the space between the front oxen course, W. N. W.
and the opposite bank, when in the act of fording Thursday, 8th.-Having pared down the bank in a straight line, I found the width of the river in on each side of the river for the wagons to pass, this part to be twenty-seven yards, and at the for. we crossed at a point opposite to our bivouac, mer eighty. which I have named Wyngart's Ford*. Conti Afternoon. Ascended a very steep hill from nued our journey still over open grass downs, in the river; from the top of which it was observed nearly a due westerly direction, the ridges gradu- to make a number of very abrupt windings, through ally declining in height until we reached another a most impracticable country, intersected with a rather larger river, which I think must be the succession of rocky acclivities. Here the first principal branch of Umzimcoolu. Both this and gneu was seen at a short distance from the ihe Ungānguani, pent in by steep acclivities, wagons. From another steep hill, which we soon make very abrupt and serpentine bends at the after ascended, a succession of open downs expoints where we reached them. A jackal has tended nearly to the mountains. The day had been seen both yesterday and to-day, as well as closed, and it was quite dark before an eligible soine hartebeests. As another remarkable moun- spot for outspanning could be found—there being tain, more to the eastward, has been observed neither trees nor shelter until we approached some among the Quathlamba, I have named it the rocky hills, in a northerly direction, where, in con“Saddle Back,” in order to distinguish it from the sequence of our improvidence in not bringing Giant's Cup, to which it is very similar. The snow some fire-wood in the wagon, we were obliged 10 has now almost entirely disappeared from the go supperless to bed. Travelled about twenty whole range, as far as the eye can reach. miles-general course, N. E.
On this, and many other rivers which we have Saturday, 10th.—While walking over the hills passed, wild ducks have been seen; but I have at this morning, previous to starting with the wagons, length adopted the opinion of Waterdoer, the I saw a dark colored, thick-bodied snake, about Grigua chief, who, when I met him in Cape five feet long, with a wide, flat head, and pointed Town, replied, with a hearty laugh to my inquiry, mouth : the head was covered with yellow spots. whether he was able to shoot a bird flying, that he It is, I believe, of the species called by the Dutch did not waste powder upon birds. The ducks are the "wrinkle snake.” On my return we protherefore allowed to enjoy themselves unmolested ceeded through a fine valley, leading directly to which our scanty supply of balls (all the hunters' the foot of the Giant's Cup; from whence on our lead having been expended before we left Port right a rocky stream was issuing, which is probaNatal) obliges us to husband it for nobler game. bly the Umcāmás. Having wound for some dis
This forbearance has not been without its re- tance through this valley, skirted on each side by ward, as, during the period of spanning out to-day, mountains, our further progress was suddenly an eland was shot on the opposite side of the river. stopped on one side by immmense fragments of Here it again became necessary to cut the bank rock fallen from the mountain, which rose abruptly on both sides, by which passage we soon after on the left, while the river itself occupied the only crossed-naming the spot “ King's Ford.”+ level spot on the right. Distance travelled about
Afternoon.-Scarcely had we quitted the river, five miles—general course, N. N. W. Having than we were obliged to turn to the southward, already crossed the stream with my horse by the and descend a very steep and rocky ridge, which time the wagons came up, I gave directions to occu so much time, the precautions span out, and pushed forward, in the hope of findwhich were necessary to prevent the wagon from ing some practicable pass on the other side, or at overturning, that, in order to recruit the oxen, we least of observing the country beyond the mounspanned out as soon as we reached a convenient tains, from one of their elevated ridges. With spot in the valley below. An even grass ridge, this object in view I led my horse over the most forming a complete amphitheatre, shelterėd our difficult places; many parts being exceedingly bivouac on three sides, while a small brook of clear steep and rocky; and continued ascending from water meandered through the whole area. It ridge to ridge until overtaken by a thunder storm. was a most sheltered spot, but not a twig was A thick mist rising soon after nearly concealed growing near, and the people had to go in quest my path ; but at this time a heavy shower of hail of fire-wood to a considerable distance. Distance was falling, and I gladly endured a wetting, with travelled fifteen miles-general course, west.
the full expectation that it would disperse the mist. Friday, 9th.—The mountains, closing in to the In this, however I was disappointed; and after westward, obliged me to shape a more northerly anxiously awaiting a break for a considerable, course, in which direction the country was more time, I unsaddled my horse, and seating myself open ;and after traversing a continuation of downs, upon a rock, prepared for a nightly bivouac in this we were again conducted to the banks of, what I uncomfortable situation. Thus exposed, without take to be, the Umzimcoolu, which we forded with the remotest hope of assistance from my party, out difficulty, though the bed was very rocky, at a
now several miles distant, I had recourse to that spot I bave called Ogle's Fordt. A heavy thunder sure refugema throne of grace; and though the storm, with rain, obliged us to stop on the opposite infidel may scoff, I will declare it for the encou
ragement of others, and the glory of my God, that * From Jan Wyngart, driver of the baggage
he vouchsafed to hear my cry, and delivered wagon.
me. Through an opening in the mist, I was soon From Richard King, driver of my wagon.
after enabled to perceive the route which it would # From Mr. Ogle, who accompanied the party. be necessary for me to take, in order to retrace