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In the river are some good fish, one of which was caught. As it is rather an extraordinary event to see wagons in this part, we were soon surrounded by the whole male population; while the women, patient creatures! set heartily to work to grind corn and bake loaves for the journey, the prospect of a few yards of dungaree and some bunches of beads calling forth all their energies.

my present journey, which does not admit of any unnecessary delay, I should not certainly have passed so near without paying these extraordinary people a visit.

The erroneous appellation of "Bushmen," by which the Inthlangwăin are commonly known at Port Natal, has obtained, from the circumstance of their having acquired the method of poisoning Having already made acquaintance with Foortu the assegais which they use in killing the elephant at Berea, I spent some little time in his hut, in and other wild animals, from a party of wandering order to obtain what information he possessed re- Bushmen with whom they were occasionally assospecting the country we were about to traverse. ciated during their residence on the Umzimvoobo. Unfortunately, their hunting expeditions had been On asking Foortu, in presence of several of his chiefly confined to the intermediate country be- people, whether he should like to have a "Teacher" tween this and the sea, ranging from the Umgăni residing with him, he said, "I should rejoice;" and, to the Umzimvoobo; they said they had in some after explaining the object of my present journey, instances been nearly to the Quathlamba, but and the expectation I had of a missionary being know of no passes through those mountains, nor eventually sent to his people, he replied, "I canhad they even heard of inhabitants in any of the not believe that it will be so; it is what I desire intervening districts. These people originally to see, and that which would make me glad."lived high up on the right bank of the Tugala, On the subject of religion they are equally as dark whence they were driven, about fifteen years as their neighbors the Zoolus. They acknowsince, by the devastating wars of Charka. The ledged, indeed, a traditionary account of a Supreme name of this village is Doomazoolu, or Thunder- Being, whom they called Ŏukoolukoolu, (literally ing Heavens, and, with the other nine, contains the Great-Great) but knew nothing further refrom 300 to 400 men; and as each on an average specting him, than that he originally issued from has three wives, the whole population may be es- the reeds, created men and cattle, and taught timated at about 3000. The name of Charka, ac- them the use of the assegai. They knew not cording to Foortu's account, was not even known how long the issitoota, or spirit of a deceased perto them until the approach of his army was an-son, existed after its departure from the body, but nounced, and they were eventually obliged to abandon their country, when, after wandering for some time, they settled on the Umzimvoobo; but even there they found no respite, the Amakoash under Maddegan falling upon them and killing their cheif Nombeu (father to Foortu,) who fell by the hand of Tpai. This occurred about five years ago, and obliged them to seek their present asylum, which, after enduring many hardships, several of their people dying from actual starvation, they effected. They describe themselves as having been formerly a powerful nation, the only remains of which at present consist of twenty-five villages, ten here, ten more on this side of the Umgani, and five on the other, all under the control of Foortu, and may probably amount to between 7,000 and 8000 souls. The refugees so frequently to be met with scattered among all the tribes from the colonial frontier to the Umzimvoobo, and especially at the missionary stations in those districts, and who are known under the general name of "Fingu" (literally wanderer,) are the remnants of the various nations formerly inhabiting this extensive tract of country, the greater part of whom have been destroyed either by famine or the assegai. On the bank of the Umcamas, not quite a day's journey from hence, towards the mouth is a remarkable rocky defile, which has long been celebrated as the Thermopyla of this part of Africa, having been as courageously defended by a chief called Namabunga, and who, with a handful of men, successfully opposed the whole force that Charka could bring against them. The gallant Namabunga has since fallen in an affray with the Inthlangwăin, and only nine of the original party now remain, who, with their wives and children, still retain their rocky fastness, the proud and melancholy wreck of a brave and unconquered race. Were it not for the important objects of

attributed every untoward occurrence to its influence, slaughtering a beast to propitiate its favor on every occasion of severe sickness, &c. As is customary among all these nations, a similar offering is made by the ruling chief to the spirit of his immediate ancestor preparatory to any warlike or hunting expedition, and it is to the humor of this capricious spirit that every degree of failure or success is ascribed. They listened with much attention while I informed them what the Scripture said respecting the power, the wisdom, and the love of God, the immortality of the soul, the resurrection of the body, and the day of final judgment; but an audible laugh instantly proceeded from all who were present, on my telling them that God had declared in his Word that man's heart was full of sin. This I have always found the most difficult subject to explain, even to those who have had frequent opportunities of instruction; I was not, therefore, greatly surprised at this slight interruption, which was merely an expression of astonishment.

Having presented Foortu with a piece of broadcloth for an ingoobo, he paid me what doubtless he considered as a high compliment, by styling me, in his return of thanks, the "Black Chief."

These people are not only industrious, but particularly friendly to Europeans, and in every respect offer a most encouraging field for missionary labor; may it please the Lord of the harvest to incline the hearts of some among his devoted servants to visit this secluded valley, and willingly submit to spend and be spent in directing these wild mountaineers to the Lamb of God, the Sa

viour of sinners.

Tuesday, 29th.-This morning, I sat till I was tired in front of my wagon, dispensing beads in exchange for various articles, which were brought

for purchase, such as ezinqua, amas, ground beans,* and Kafir-corn. The crowd, though noisy, were respectful; each in turns delivering the contents of the calabash or basket, and as quietly awaiting the payment in return. In the very height of the barter, a bush-buck was espied on an opposite hill, which instantly induced a strong party of men, accompanied by their dogs, to hurry off in pursuit. Assegais were hastily snatched up, and away they went, dispersing themselves in all directions. It was amusing to observe the rapidity with which, in a few minutes, they had crossed the river and were clambering, among rocks and bushes, the slopes of the mountain beyond;-the women around the wagon, forgetting for a while their beads and dungaree, and eagerly employed in tracing the buck with their hands and eyes until concealed from their view, seemed quite to enjoy the sport. Three bucks were killed and brought in by the hunting-party in the course of the afternoon. Last night, while conversing with Foortu and some of his principal people, they gave an amusing account of an idea, which, until they had seen white men, they had previously entertained respecting them. It was reported that these strange beings had, on some occasion or other, fallen from the sky, but not with their full complement of limbs, but half the usual number of legs, arms, and eyes being sufficient for their use; -moreover, they had the peculiar faculty of blowing leaden balls with the breath of their mouths from the muzzles of their guns! Surprising facts these, which they now acknowledge to have been a base imposition. I was happy to find that they give as little credence to the stories respecting Oukoolukoolu, observing that as it appears their forefathers had no direct communication with him, they have no reliance upon the statements which have been handed down to them, and that they are desirous to be informed on the subject. In their language, habits, buildings, and appearance, they are exactly similar to the Zoolus, with one important exception-the heads of the women are not shorn, but usually dressed after the Amaponda fashion. The men are fond of wearing strings of white beads round the head, passing just below the eyes and resting on the bridge of the nose, which at a distance give them a very wild appearance. I have also remarked several of the Zoolus similarly decorated. Every thing being arranged, we set out, though late this afternoon, and almost immediately began to ascend a steeper mountain than any I have yet climbed with a wagon.Notwithstanding fourteen oxen were yoked to each, the united strength of both spans was only sufficient to convey mine (the least encumbered) to the top; all our efforts to raise the other above midway were ineffectual. The night had closed in; thunder was pealing among the mountains; and, although there was not a spot near the lower wagon sufficiently level to pitch the tent for the people, they were obliged to remain there until the morning, the wagon resting upon the slope with both wheels locked; and, to an observer from below, to all appearance suspended in the air.

A native, I believe, of De la Goa Bay; the plant is low, and the beans are produced at the root; they are very nutritious.

Wednesday, 30th.-Previously to lightening the stranded wagon, which I had directed, one more effort was made; and to my no small surprise I soon perceived, by the loud cracking of the whip, that they were once more under weigh, and shortly afterwards my lumbering consort made her appearance alongside. From this elevation, where we remained for some time to rest the harassed oxen, the prospect is striking ;-mountains in all directions, with the Umcamas in graceful windings, forcing its way through their rocky ravines, until lost among the rugged acclivities of Namabunga. We are now fairly entered upon the mountains, and although, by the circuitous route it has been necessary to take, we have travelled about eighty-five miles, the actual distance in a direct line from Port Natal cannot, I should think, be more than fifty on a true course nearly due west.

Having obtained two men from Foortu, as guides to a ford high up on the Umzimcoolu, we continued our journey about ten o'clock, still ascending. A less tedious and difficult road, I doubt not, will eventually be found; but it was not until we had surmounted the steepest part that a more accessible route seemed apparent on the left. As it will be convenient for the sake of reference to supply names to a few points during the present journey, I have ventured to call this "Mount Clamber," an appellation which I should apprehend few who have reached the top will be inclined to dispute as unappropriate. Thus far we have been pursuing a partially beaten track, dignified in Port Natal phraseology by the name of a road; but here we have only the faint traces of some Dutch wagons, which about twelve months ago crossed these mountains on their return to the Colony from Port Natal, and these only occasionally to be discovered by a practised eye.

Having now passed what may be termed the only "oasis" by the way, the solitary wilderness is again before us; but as the day proved rainy, we made but little progress, and out-spanned again at one.

Saturday, October 3rd.-Until this morning we have been weather-bound, detained by the rain; and I have been as it were in solitary confinement, scarcely able to leave my wagon for an instant during the whole time,-the rain falling in torrents with little interruption, and accompanied with much thunder and lightning. Last night was so tempestuous, that the tent was blown over and could not again be pitched, and I was in hourly expectation that the tilt of my wagon, which was leaking down upon my bed, would have shared the same fate. Independent of the discomfort of travelling in rainy weather, it is highly imprudent when on a long journey, as the necks of the oxen soon became sore, and they are thereby rendered unfit for use for several days. The two guides, who had wisely returned to their village at the commencement of the rain, rejoined us some time after we had started this morning, and reported that the Umcamas suddenly had risen and was now overflowing its banks. Proceeded in a westerly direction over a continuation of rounded open downs without trees. From this high level we obtained the first view of the Quathlamba mountains, extending appa

rently in one continued range from N.E. to S. W., presenting a very broken and rugged outline, with much snow still remaining on their summits. While endeavoring to cross a small mountain rill, the baggage-wagon sunk to the axles in the mud; twice the tractow* was broken in the endeavour to urge it forward, and it was not until it had been actually dug out with great difficulty, that it was at length extricated. Here we spanned out during the middle of the day, now delightfully cool since the late storm. This morning saw an eland, and several bucks and partridges. In the afternoon, we fell in with a large herd of "hartebeests," but could not approach them near enough for a shot; they are nearly as large as the eland, but with a longer neck, which they carry more erect. In shape they are more like the fallow-deer, with large palmated antlers. Observing by my glass, what I conceived to be an opening in the snowy range, bearing about W. by N., I resolved, if possible, to take that point, in the hope of finding a practicable pass for the wagons. As the upper ford on the Umzimcoolu would oblige us to keep too much to the S.W., I gave up the intention of following the track of the Dutch wagons thus far, and resolved to make the best of my way across the ridges in the direction proposed. The frequent necessity of walking in front to inspect the country before the wagons came up, although very fatiguing, created a great deal of interest, but it prevented me from finding a suitable spot for our Sunday's halt until long after the sun had gone down. We spanned out on a steep ridge, overlooking a rugged valley, in which were two streams, called by the guides the Inkonzo and Ungangwani; both, as they state, branches of the Umzimcoolu, and uniting with that river at no great distance from our present station. The latter, which is the most distant, is the larger stream.

Distance travelled about twenty-six miles. General course, west.

Sunday, 4th.

Join then, my soul, in that amen,
Which claims the promise as thine own,
Plead it in prayer,-and plead again-
Rest not until its power be known.

When Christ departs, what joy remains?
All then is darkness and despair!
Vexation marks our toils and pains

'Tis only light when He is there!

Oh, let me then with Him abide-
The rock on which my all I build;
No other friend I need beside,

In Christ my wants are all fulfilled.

And death-oh bliss! shall only rend
The veil that now conceals his face;
And I shall then behold my Friend

For ever nigh-redeemed by grace! Morning.-English service in the tent; Afternoon.-Kafir ditto in the open air.

Tuesday, 6th.-On account of yesterday's rain, we were unable to proceed until this morning. The man who went for the cattle on Sunday evening saw a lioness with four whelps, lying down at no great distance from them, evidently watching an opportunity to seize upon a strag gler. When he appeared, they rose and made slowly off, occasionally stopping and looking round, while he was occupied in driving the herd towards the wagons-unaccustomed to such companions, my horse had wisely made off, and was not found again until after we had set out. The Doomazoolu guides, confessing that they had no further knowledge of the country, were this morning dismissed, and by them I took the opportunity of sending back the cow and calf, to be delivered into the charge of Foortu, and forwarded to Port Natal, when sufficiently recovered. I was not altogether sorry at this necessity (the milk having failed for some days,) deeming it generally best on expeditions of this kind, that all should fare alike, and having from the first some little compunctions on the decided selfishness of this pri

"Lo, I am with you alway, even unto the end of vate supply. Soon after leaving the heights, the world. Amen."-(Matthew xxviii. 20.)

What rich mines of endless treasure
Does the word of God contain !
Free and boundless without measure,
Every promise sure and plain.

One there is above the rest,
Sweeter than the sweetest there;
Of that one alone possessed,

All their fulness we shall share!

Hear thy gracious Saviour speak,

"Lo, I am with you to the end!" Though you are helpless, poor, and weak, On me you always may depend.

What light and life these words contain !
All that sinners e'er can need;

A balm for every grief and pain,
A rich inheritance indeed!

where we had spent the last two days, the baggage-wagon again stuck in crossing a brook; the late heavy rains having softened the ground so much, that the four wheels were almost engulfed. The attempt to drag it back, by applying the fourteen-ox power to the rear, was ineffectual, as the fore axle rested on the bank. The handle of the spade was broken in the endeavor to pare this down; and after all, it was found necessary to unload the wagon, and then, by digging a passage in front, to drag it through in the usual manner. Spanned out by one. Observed several yellow-wood and other timber trees on the mountain slopes and ravines, but as yet we had been chiefly wending along high ridges through an open country. In many places wild sage, mint, rue, and parsley, are abundant: patches and single plants of the common English fern, here called como-como, are found in every part of this country, and are in great request in the neighborhood of inhabited places, the root having been

Hide rope, passing between the oxen from the found to be a successful remedy against those inpole, and to which the yokes are attached.

ternal derangements to which, from the necessity

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of eating meat without salt, and a long continuance of milk diet, the natives are peculiarly liable. The broken nature of the country, and the continuation of a rocky ridge, impassable for wagons, obliged us to make a great circuit to the northward, so that at our evening bivouac but little progress had been made in the desired direction. Distance travelled about nineteen milesgeneral course, N. N. W.

Perhaps I may here be permitted to introduce the divertisement of a rainy day.

WAGON TRAVELLING IN SOUTH
AFRICA.

Ye locomotive sons of travel,

Whose pastime is to scour the land, Listen awhile while I unravel

A tale of distant Africand.

And dream no more of chariots stuffed,
And downy beds with eider puffed.

In our antipodes of ease,

If comfort you would still combine
To wagon-pace, by slow degrees

Your progress you must here confine;
For should you ever walk or ride,
You'll have no other house beside.

No turnpikes here, and scarce a road—
Still on the cumbrous omnium moves,
By twelve or fourteen oxen towed,

While every rock its metal proves,
As jolt by jolt it wends its way
Where bucks and elands only stray.

Resigned and patient you must be,

For bumps and tossings you will meet ; Sometimes you'll think yourself at sea,

And oft be jerked from off your seat; And when you come to ford a river, 'The whole will creak, and gape, and quiver

For headlong you will seem to go,

Like magnets dipping near the pole,
While currents through your boxes flow,
The oxen scarcely in control-

Now scrambling-falling-swimming now,
As through the rapid stream you plough.

And when the nether bank you mount,
Like some huge mammoth stranded there,
Awhile you'll hang-for drivers count

"Tis best to pause for change of air,
Suspended on a steep ascent,
Lest haply the whole team be spent.

Crack goes the whip-a passage breaks
Through tangled boughs, and reeds and grass;
The sea-cow, scared, her haunt forsakes,

And cranes shriek loudly as you pass,
And loosened rocks in fraginents strew
The opening you have struggled through.

To check your speed-for strange to say,
You're rudely hurled sometimes along—
A steep declivity may lay

Across the path you 're journeying on;
In serpent windings to and fro,
The skillful leader makes them go.

And dust and stones alike are cast

To check their mad career awhile-
An avalanche-you gain at last,

By sheer momentum, the defile;
But should perchance a rock be there,
Your wheels would circle in the air.

And oh, what barbarous Dutch I've heard,
Fit language for an ox's ear;
By all this jargon is preferred,

When they would make their cattle hear;
And, with the harsher whip between,
Well suits the wild,-the desert scene.

All is not fair that cheers the eye-
Some treacherous bog engulfs the wheel,
Nor house nor tree for miles are nigh;

And though the pelting storm you feel,
Your whole effects are strewed around,
Cast on the black and yielding ground.

And there perhaps for hours you wait,

Soaked in the rain, and ankle deep,
To mark the lightened omnium's fate,

And hail it issuing from the deep;
And then if you have aught that's dry,
You're better off than hapless I.

Such, tourists, are the joys we boast,

Without the light champaign to cheer;
Yet we can pledge a blithsome toast:

The mountain streamlet murmurs near,
And bumpers to your health we drink,
And only ask-on us you'll think!

Wednesday, 7th.-Passed through a very fine country, skirted on the right by a small streamopen downs, with well-watered flats between, and timber in patches on several of the mountain slopes. Saw a heard of hartebeests, but they all ran off before we were within gun-shot. The tails of these animals are similar to that of a horse, and, when at full speed, flow behind them with fine effect--they do not spring, but, like the eland, go off at a trot or gallop. Spanned out about one. A remarkable mountain has been visible in the Quathlamba range nearly the whole morning, bearing north-west; and from its singularly indented outline, I have been induced to name it the Giant's Cup. This afternoon, having for some time been traversing high open downs, in a direction nearly due west, we were suddenly stopped secluded valleys, through which a river was windby abrupt precipices, overlooking some beautifully ing, which I take to be the Unganguāni. Obliged to turn considerably to the northward, and soon after sunset stopped on the bank of the same river, at a point where it sweeps the steep base of a rocky hill, which opposes itself to its course in a

* Hippopotamus (so called by the Dutch and colo- horse-shoe form. Although on the open grounds

nists.

not a twig was to be seen, the banks of this stream

furnished us with abundance of firewood. Distance travelled about twenty-six miles-general course, W. N. W.

Thursday, 8th.-Having pared down the bank on each side of the river for the wagons to pass, we crossed at a point opposite to our bivouac, which I have named Wyngart's Ford*. Continued our journey still over open grass downs, in nearly a due westerly direction, the ridges gradually declining in height until we reached another rather larger river, which I think must be the principal branch of Umzimcoolu. Both this and the Unganguani, pent in by steep acclivities, make very abrupt and serpentine bends at the points where we reached them. A jackal has been seen both yesterday and to-day, as well as some hartebeests. As another remarkable mountain, more to the eastward, has been observed among the Quathlamba, I have named it the "Saddle Back," in order to distinguish it from the Giant's Cup, to which it is very similar. The snow has now almost entirely disappeared from the whole range, as far as the eye can reach.

bank. By measuring the wagon and tractow, and allowing for the space between the front oxen and the opposite bank, when in the act of fording in a straight line, I found the width of the river in this part to be twenty-seven yards, and at the former eighty.

Afternoon.-Ascended a very steep hill from the river; from the top of which it was observed to make a number of very abrupt windings, through a most impracticable country, intersected with a succession of rocky acclivities. Here the first gneu was seen at a short distance from the wagons. From another steep hill, which we soon after ascended, a succession of open downs extended nearly to the mountains. The day had closed, and it was quite dark before an eligible spot for outspanning could be found-there being neither trees nor shelter until we approached some rocky hills, in a northerly direction, where, in consequence of our improvidence in not bringing some fire-wood in the wagon, we were obliged to go supperless to bed. Travelled about twenty miles-general course, N. E.

On this, and many other rivers which we have Saturday, 10th.-While walking over the hills passed, wild ducks have been seen; but I have at this morning, previous to starting with the wagons, length adopted the opinion of Waterdoer, the I saw a dark colored, thick-bodied snake, about Grigua chief, who, when I met him in Cape five feet long, with a wide, flat head, and pointed Town, replied, with a hearty laugh to my inquiry, mouth: the head was covered with yellow spots. whether he was able to shoot a bird flying, that he It is, I believe, of the species called by the Dutch did not waste powder upon birds. The ducks are the "wrinkle snake." On my return we protherefore allowed to enjoy themselves unmolested ceeded through a fine valley, leading directly to which our scanty supply of balls (all the hunters' the foot of the Giant's Cup; from whence on our lead having been expended before we left Port right a rocky stream was issuing, which is probaNatal) obliges us to husband it for nobler game. bly the Umcamas. Having wound for some disThis forbearance has not been without its re- tance through this valley, skirted on each side by ward, as, during the period of spanning out to-day, mountains, our further progress was suddenly an eland was shot on the opposite side of the river. stopped on one side by immmense fragments of Here it again became necessary to cut the bank rock fallen from the mountain, which rose abruptly on both sides, by which passage we soon after on the left, while the river itself occupied the only crossed naming the spot "King's Ford."+ level spot on the right. Distance travelled about Afternoon. Scarcely had we quitted the river, five miles-general course, N. N. W. Having than we were obliged to turn to the southward, already crossed the stream with my horse by the and descend a very steep and rocky ridge, which time the wagons came up, I gave directions to occupied so much time, from the precautions span out, and pushed forward, in the hope of findwhich were necessary to prevent the wagon from ing some practicable pass on the other side, or at overturning, that, in order to recruit the oxen, we least of observing the country beyond the mounspanned out as soon as we reached a convenient tains, from one of their elevated ridges. With spot in the valley below. An even grass ridge, this object in view I led my horse over the most forming a complete amphitheatre, sheltered our difficult places; many parts being exceedingly bivouac on three sides, while a small brook of clear steep and rocky; and continued ascending from water meandered through the whole area. It ridge to ridge until overtaken by a thunder storm. was a most sheltered spot, but not a twig was A thick mist rising soon after nearly concealed growing near, and the people had to go in quest my path; but at this time a heavy shower of hail of fire-wood to a considerable distance. Distance was falling, and I gladly endured a wetting, with travelled fifteen miles-general course, west. the full expectation that it would disperse the mist. Friday, 9th.-The mountains, closing in to the westward, obliged me to shape a more northerly course, in which direction the country was more open ;and after traversing a continuation of downs, we were again conducted to the banks of, what I take to be, the Umzimcoolu, which we forded without difficulty, though the bed was very rocky, at a spot I have called Ogle's Fordt. A heavy thunder storm, with rain, obliged us to stop on the opposite

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In this, however I was disappointed; and after anxiously awaiting a break for a considerable. time, I unsaddled my horse, and seating myself upon a rock, prepared for a nightly bivouac in this uncomfortable situation. Thus exposed, without the remotest hope of assistance from my party, now several miles distant, I had recourse to that sure refuge-a throne of grace; and though the infidel may scoff, I will declare it for the encou ragement of others, and the glory of my God, that he vouchsafed to hear my cry, and delivered

me.

Through an opening in the mist, I was soon after enabled to perceive the route which it would be necessary for me to take, in order to retrace

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