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Sunday 6th.

"And the soul of the people was much discouraged because of the way."-(Numbers xxi. 4.)

How oft our treacherous hearts conspire
To meet the wily tempter's art!
The very blessings we desire

If but delayed, in whole or part,
Or wrought in some mysterious way,
Oft fill our bosoms with dismay!

Too apt to judge, by sense we deem

Our ways and wisdom oft the best;
Some shorter path would easier seem,

To lead us to our heavenly rest;
The language of our hearts would say,
"We're much discouraged by the way."

went down to the skirts of the wood, and occasion-of the year it is comparatively empty, and can ally caught a glimpse of their huge bodies through scarcely be said to fall, a few trickling rills only findthe openings, and a few shot were fired chiefly to ing their way to the base of the acclivity. In order dislodge them from their retreat, as it was quite to distinguish this from many other equally nameless impossible, from the intricacy and tangled nature waterfalls on this route, I have ventured to call it of the underwood, to obtain a proper aim. Tired the Waning Fall, in indication of its rapid increase at length by such fruitless attempts, we entered and decrease according to the season of the year. the wood by paths worn by the elephants them- Soon after leaving the neighborhood of this roselves, and penetrated very near to the spot where mantic glen, several elands were seen on the open they were standing, but still there was no possi- ground; one actually approached so near as to bility of obtaining a full view of them without being pass between the people and the loose cattle which too much exposed, as it would have been quite they were driving. This is the largest species of impossible to have escaped through such a laby- the African deer, the males standing as high as a rinth had either of them been inclined to pursue. horse, and frequently running as fleet, though it is As it was, we had more than once to make off by no means so easy to overtake a doe even when with all speed, whenever they thought proper to well mounted. make a rush. The natives were so sanguine as to our success, that they had actually lighted fires, and were assembled around them in anticipation of the expected feast. Although they kept at a respectable distance from all danger, they contributed much to the interest of the scene, by frequently advancing to the skirt of the wood, shouting with their united voices, and striking their shields with their assegais, in order to induce our noble game to betake themselves to the open ground. Thus engaged, the night closed in upon us; and, becoming too dark to discern even an elephant among the thick boughs, the wood was no longer tenable, and we were reluctantly obliged to abandon the pursuit. This resolution was no sooner formed, and we had commenced the ascent, than crash went the bushes, and out they both sallied, the cow halting from the effect of a wound; but, notwithstanding we all gave instant chase, they were soon out of sight, beyond the reach of our guns. On this the hungry Amapondas quitted their fires supperless, and we proceeded by moonlight to our wagons without a single tooth as a trophy. As we walked along, Daniel (a Hottentot,) the driver of Mr. Ogle's wagon which accompanied me, related a very remarkable incident which happened to him some time ago while in the pursuit of an elephant near the Umzimcoolu. So suddenly had he come upon the animal, while watching his movements in a thick wood, that, before he had time to retreat, he felt the pressure of his trunk actually wound round his head. Had the grasp been lower it would have been fatal, but most providentially it merely lifted the cap from his head; and instantly, on finding himself liberated, with that presence of mind which danger often induces, he dived between the animal's fore-legs, and, passing quickly in his rear, eventually effected his escape. In order to make up for this detention, we proceeded for about three hours by moonlight, and the next day, about eleven, reached “the waterfall." To the Umsicaba, a few miles beyond which I am now writing, the road to me is new, being the wagon track which I have not before travelled, and which has given me an opportunity, with which I have been much gratified, of a scramble among the rocks and precipices of this singular glen, which breaks so abruptly from the level of the country over which we had been travelling, that you suddenly approach a perpendicular cliff overlooking an extensive view, and from which the cataract descends to a great depth below. At this season

But could we see the germs of pride,

The spirit that too oft compels,
How much the world our hearts divide,
What poison in its flattery dwells;
Our choice the desert path would be,
If, Lord! it does but lead to Thee.

Though oft we seem again to trace
The very paths we trod before,
"Tis but to show our need of grace-
From some besetting sin restore;
"Tis trial proves us cold or hot,
Whether we love the Lord or not.

Lord! never leave me to my will,

In all the way my steps direct;
Thy gracious purposes fulfil,

From faithless fears my soul protect;
With Thee in Christ my life be hid,
One backward-sinful glance forbid.

So shall enduring peace be mine,

Thy rod and staff shall be my stay;
And when my spirit I resign,

"Twill rise to realms of endless day:
For ever to admire the grace,
That led me first to seek thy face.

Forenoon, English service in the open airAfternoon, Kafir, ditto.

Monday, 7th.-Unable on account of the tide, to ford the Umtendo, which we reached on Satur

day afternoon, we were obliged to wait until eight o'clock; a detention which I did not regret, as the scramble up the opposite acclivities, which was effected without accident, was performed under the softened light of a full moon, giving to one of the most difficult wagon passes that can be imagined, and which to a novice in South African travelling would be regarded as an utter impracticability, a peculiar interest, which it would be difficult to describe. Part of my retirement yesterday was spent in view of the romantic cliffs and woods which margin this beautiful river, about a mile from its entrance into the sca. It was one of those beauteous spots which, while they gladden the eye, should lead us, as Cowper beautifully observes, "From nature up to nature's God;" and cause us to break forth in the words of another poet :

These are Thy works, Parent of good! Almighty thine this universal frame. Yesterday afternoon some natives arrived with an answer to a letter I had sent to Port Natal,

requesting, if the sloop had arrived, that she might be detained until my return, as I wished to take a passage by her to Algoa Bay; but it contained no such cheering news-nothing had entered the Port since my departure. I was glad, however, to find that my truant horse, "Pilgrim," who so unhandsomely deserted me near the Umcamas, had been found not far from that river, and taken back to Berea, and that I might expect him shortly to be forwarded on to meet me on the road. Should it be necessary after all to attempt the inland route, which is said to be more accessible from Port Natal, his services will be valuable, and I shall not regret the long holiday he has taken.

vancing to attack my wagon driver, who had followed him without a gun: happily I came up at the time, and, although equally unarmed, he made slowly off, stopping occasionally and looking over his shoulder, as he deliberately ascended the bank. It is most probable he had been attracted by the pork which was still hanging about the wagons. Notwithstanding their usual timidity, frequent instances have been known in which natives have been attacked by them. Mr. Ogle related one which occurred in the Zoolu country, when he was passing through the district of Clomanthleen, in lieutenant Farewell's employment. While sleeping in a hut, with several natives belonging to the party, a hyena entered, and, seizing one of them by the forehead, dragged him towards the door-way, but was unable to proceed with his prey, as the wicker-door, which slides within two short posts, had swung back and partly closed the opening by which he had forced his way. In this predicament, the screams of the man, and the who, to their great surprise, found this unwelcome efforts of both, soon awoke the rest of the party, the people in a neighboring hut, some burning companion a prisoner among them. Shouting to faggots were introduced, which had the instantaneous effect of liberating the sufferer, and ejecting the disappointed intruder.

the natives in good spirits; the strong and stringy Yesterday a buffalo was shot, which has put all flesh of these animals being as delicious, in their estimation, as the tenderest beef to an European palate. The poor beast, which was an aged one, and of immense size and power, stood four shots before it ceased to plunge and tear the ground, and even after he fell, rolled over and over down the slope of the hill in his efforts to raise himself again upon his feet. Twice already have we Saturday, 12th.-On Wednesday morning a been stopped by the rain, this being the month herd of wild pigs, about forty, were seen, and eager- when it usually commences in this latitude. Some ly chased by the people. My driver shot one, which of our halting places, and particularly our nightly was a very seasonable supply. On the same bivouacs, are truly picturesque;—often among evening we reached the Umzimcoolu, but, as it romantic scenery, sheltered, when practicable, by was just high-water, were obliged to wait until rocks, or branches of trees cut for the purpose; midnight, when we crossed at the mouth. As while the blazing fires shed a peculiar light over Mr. Ogle, with a wagon laden with elephants' the motley features of the surrounding group.teeth, was in company, the party was somewhat Not even the designs of Salvator Rosa, Bassano, numerous, and the oxen had strayed so far, that or any of the other great masters of claro obscuro it was long after the river was reported to be ford- which I have seen, have ever conveyed to my able that they could be collected. The descent mind the real peculiarities of these wild situations: to the beach is steep, and the night was so dark, the fact is, they are inimitable-much must althat in order to save the wheels of the wagons, ways be left for the imagination, and it is on this which more than once sunk into the burrows of very account that in all descriptive scenes poetry the ant-eater, they were obliged to be supported so far surpasses canvas representations. One occasionally by ropes and reims,* to prevent them may indeed illustrate the other, but to my mind from going over. In the mean time, the tide had the former has always the superiority. Of all the rapidly increased; the oxen soon lost their foot-party, my servant, Umpondombeeni, was not the ing, and, before the hind wheels had entered the least grotesque; having picked up on the beach stream, the front pair were swimming. It was a large sponge, which exactly fitted his head, and indeed a gracious providence that brought us safely through, the wagon itself being more than once lifted by the heave of the waves. On the following evening I was surprised at the audacity of a hyena. It was dark when we approached the bank of a small brook, covered with brushwood, and in this vantage-ground a large fellow, who had just quitted his lurking-place, was ad

* A Dutch word signifying leather thongs.

which he decorated at the crown, which was peaked with the tail-feathers of a fowl that had been killed. As this was the first time that I had seen his head covered in any way, I was highly amused at the extraordinary change it had made in his appearance, while the cap itself, which he persisted in wearing during the remainder of the journey, reminded me of the antique drawings of Dacian helmets, and was by no means unbecoming.

On reaching Mr. Cane's village, where we

stopped some little time this morning, I found my horse. Two men, we understood, had recently been drowned in an attempt to cross the Umzimcoolu at the upper ford. Had they waited until the ebb tide, there would have been no danger, but this is a point of experience to which few of them have yet arrived; too frequently acting upon an absurd notion that when the moon has set the water has likewise reached its minimum. Including the above, three persons have been drowned at the same river within the short space of two months. Unfortunately, the natives of this part of Africa have not the slightest idea of a canoe, and but very few of them can swim. When the trading sloop, about fifteen tons, anchors in Port Natal, "The Ship" is announced, and numbers flock to the beach to behold the wonder. The prolific mattingoolo, so generally abundant near the sea, was now entirely out of season-not one was gathered during the whole journey, to our no small regret, as we were living chiefly on meal, without even sugar to make it more palatable.

Sunday, 13th.

"It is well."-(2 Kings iv. 26.) When wave on wave our souls oppress, And troubles like a flood o'erwhelm ; When tempest tost in deep distress,

No pilot seems to guide the helm'Tis grace alone that storm can quell, And cause us to pronounce-""Tis well."

Grace, like the tree Elisha found,

Can make the bitterest waters sweet; Though all seems dark and dreary round, It sooths the deepest grief we meet ; And though our hearts too oft rebel, Inclines them to confess-""Tis well."

Hushed in the storm-its fury laid,
When once that still small voice we hear,

"It is I-be not afraid!"

Thy Saviour and thy God is near! No more the billows rage and swell, Cheered by His presence-all is well.

Like suffering Job, the soul can cleave,
Bereft of all, on Him alone;
The firmer grasp, the more we leave,
And 'mid the fiercest trial own,
He who our inmost thoughts can tell
Has justly stricken-" It is well!"

Submission is thy work indeed

But Thou has promised more than this; Lord, let my soul from sin be freed,

Make me thy chastening rod to kiss ; Make faith and love within to dwell, And then, indeed, it will be well.

What though rebuked and chastened here,
It is a Father's hand we feel!
Soon we shall count those sufferings dear,
Which broke our stubborn hearts of steel;
And own the griefs our bosom swell,
Were needful each-and all was well.

In that bright world of light and joy, Where tears and sorrow cannot come, "Twill be our grateful, sweet employ,

The mercies of our days to sum. And, oh, what mortal now can tell How much of earthly grief was well!

Performed English service in the morningKafir in the afternoon.

Tuesday, 15th.-Yesterday morning I left the wagons about five miles on this side of the Umcamas, and rode to Berea. No vessel had arrived, and it was the general opinion, to which I could not but acknowledge the painful probability, that she was lost. Since my absence, a native in the service of Mr. Plankenberg has been killed by an elephant near the Mavooti.

The hunting party to which he belonged had bivouacked for the night, when suddenly they were surprised by a troop of elephants, approaching close to their sleeping place. They had scarcely awoke when they were obliged to fly for their lives-all, excepting the deceased, crept under the neighboring bushes, and remained perfectly still, were unmolested, while he, endeavoring to effect his escape by running, attracted their notice, and was immediately seized and trodden to death.

On the arrival of my wagon this afternoon, preparations were commenced for a journey across the Quathlamba mountains, it being now my intention to endeavor to reach the colony by that route, every other being completely closed; and, after communicating with his Excellency, to proceed directly to England, in the hope of procuring missionaries to occupy the stations now formedhaving as yet been unable to forward one single letter to the Church Missionary Society on this important subject, although many have been writ

ten.

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Thursday, 24th.-On Tuesday afternoon the equipment was so far advanced, that we left Berea, and spanned out on the flat opposite to Mr. Collis's, in order to take in the remainder of the provisions.

Solitary as was my abode at this place-a humble grass-hut, affording nothing, either within or without, which in common parlance might be included within that most comprehensive of all English words, "comfort"-still it had been my "home," and was not divested of many pleasing associations; but it was not until I had actually turned my back upon it, and was descending the hill, that I became sensible of the place it already occupied in my affections. I had just taken leave cf my faithful servant Umpondombeeni, to whose attachment I could not be insensible. Though Ireluctant to leave his wives, he merely asked my leave to visit them at the Tugăla, and return in time for the present journey; but this I thought unreasonable, and sent him home, with directions

to inspect the huts of Culula occasionally, and see that the oxen presented to me by Dingarn were properly attended to in my absence.

Nombamba, another of my servants, a fine active young man, volunteered to accompany me, which I accepted; while poor Seenda, Mankanjana's brother, whom I was educating, expressed by his looks an equal desire, though he was far too young for such a jaunt. Yesterday morning, about nine o'clock, the wagons being properly packed, and the people arranged in their places, we commenced the journey, stopping about an hour for some of the oxen at Mr. Pickman's, (the last village in that direction, in the neighborhood of Port Natal.) Mr. Collis accompanied me on horseback to the mid-day halting-place, and soon after took his leave.

It may here be as well to give a list of the equipment:

Two wagons.

rated from the main herd: they were tracked to a considerable distance; and from the speed with which they appeared to have gone off, it was supposed that they had been chased by a lion. Spanned out early, and despatched three men after them, with directions to cut across the country, and meet us again on our arrival at the Inthlangwain villages. They did not, however, proceed far when they fell in with the missing cattle, and returned. Just as we were again setting out a Hottentot arrived on horseback. As he approached, I felt assured that he had been sent to announce the arrival of some vessel in the bay; but far different were the tidings he brought, and most heart-rending the accounts contained in the letters he delivered. Mr. Collis's magazine, containing fifteen hundred pounds of powder, had yesterday exploded; and himself, his infant child, the native nurse, and a Hottentot named Class, had been killed, while several natives had been severely burnt. The circumstance which led to

Fifty-one draught-oxen, (two of which were this awful scene was related by a native who was

pack-oxen.)

Twelve calves, for slaughtering.

present, and so severely burnt, that it is scarcely thought he can recover. Mr. Collis had gone into

One cow and calf, eight days old, (carried in the store for the purpose of taking out a gun for the wagon while travelling.)

N. B.-As one ox and the cow and calf were left on the road, the total number of cattle was sixty-two.

Class, then in his service, but who had accompanied me from the colony as Mr.Berkin's servant. In order to try the flint, he had imprudently snapped the lock, with the muzzle pointed towards a powder barrel, when the gun which had been carelessly put by loaded, but without priming, went off; and the explosion, which was heard at the Umgăni, took place. The mangled bodies of Mr. Collis and the Hottentot were blown to a con

was in the arms of the servant girl, seated on the outside of an adjoining building, was fractured; and she shortly after died of the injury she had

So sudden and so awful a summons from time into eternity speaks, in solemn accents, to every heart,-" Prepare to meet thy God." Oh! that this afflictive dispensation may not be without a beneficial influence upon the lives of all in this neighborhood! that this second breach in our small community may teach us so to number our days, that we may apply our hearts unto wisdom! that those who had never yet sought the Lord may seek Him in earnest, while their day of grace remains! and that those who have found Him, and felt that He is indeed precious to their soulsall their hope, and all their desire-may be stimulated to great watchfulness, working while it is day, that when their Lord shall come, they may be found with their lamps trimmed ready for his appearing!

Including Mr. Ogle, who took this opportunity of going to the colony with a native servant and myself, the party consisted of twelve, viz: five Europeans, one Hottentot, and six natives. To European travellers the number of draught-siderable distance; the skull of the infant, which oxen may appear disproportionate, but it would not have been prudent to have set out on such a journey with less than two span of twelve for each wagon, and a few spare ones in case of need; in-sustained. deed, I should not have hesitated to have added even a few more, could they have been procured. After crossing the Umlass and Umpogōti rivers, the road takes a great circuit to the south-west. This morning, at our first halt, about eleven o'clock, Port Natal was distinctly visible-the nearest part of the bay could not be more than nine or ten miles distant in a direct line, although we had travelled about thirty. The country through which we passed yesterday is broken into moderate hills, covered in patches with trees and underwood, producing abundance of grass, and only requiring the hand of man to develop the natural richness of the soil. During the greater part of the night there has been rain. Passed to-day a very broken country-the mountains generally table-topped, and the trees gradually disappearing as we recede from the coast. At a little before sunset stopped for the night. While toiling up a very steep ascent this afternoon, I observed a remarkable tree, about the size of a large appletree, growing near the bank. From the circumstance of its bearing a reddish blossom, and being totally divested of leaves, I at first mistook it for Saturday, 26th.-A continuation of the same the umseensi, but on a nearer inspection I found open country, uninteresting to a traveller, but that the blossom was of a deep cherry or blood-likely one day to be held by the grazier in great red color, and am inclined to believe that it is a species little known.

Friday, 25th.-This morning we were delayed on account of the oxen, several having sepa

Having despatched the messenger with a short reply, we proceeded on our journey over an undulating country destitute of trees. Soon after sunset stopped at a spot formerly the site of a native village, but where only sufficient brushwood for kindling the fires could be procured.

estimation; the downs being extensive and elevated, the soil dry, and the grass shorter and better than that produced on the lower grounds nearer to the sea. This whole district, now a wilderness

was, as I am informed, well inhabited, until the devastating army of Charka swept over these hills. The mere circular site of their perishable dwellings is all that is now apparent, but many of the cattle enclosures, which, from the scarcity of timber, were built of rough stones, are still remaining. Some which we passed are built entirely of mud, piled in blocks, like unburnt brick; others with stone and mud intermixed, in layers, and arranged in the circular form, similar to those which are enclosed with a bush fence.

Mr. Cane, who accompanied me as far as the Inthlangwǎin villages, related a singular method of setting a broken limb, having himself experienced the operation at a spot not far from the track we are now pursuing; his arm having been broken and put out of joint by the overturning of his cart. Several men having assembled at the place, with a native Esculapius at their head, a deep hole was scooped out, and then partly filled with pliant clay; the whole arm, with the hand open, and the fingers curved inwards, was then inserted, when the remainder of the clay that had been prepared was filled in, and beaten closely down. Several men then steadily raised his body perpendicularly to the incased arm, and drew it out by main force. By this simple but somewhat painful method his arm was perfectly reset; and, had he retained the native bandage, would doubtless have grown perfectly straight, but by substituting a sling it has grown out. This, I understand, is the usual practice among all these tribes; and is said to be effectual. Our forenoon's journey was about four hours. In the afternoon several bucks were seen, and a herd of buffalo passed very near to the wagons; one was wounded by Jacob, the Hotentot, but we had not time to pursue them.

By following the track of some Dutch wagons on their return to the colony, and which we afterwards understood had separated at this point, we were thrown considerably out of the road, and obliged to bivouac near the Umagorda, a branch of the Umcamas, which here occupies a narrow ravine at the foot of the mountains. Had it not been for this circumstance, we should probably have reached Foortu's village this evening, which I was anxious to effect on account of the service to-morrow. Near the stream are a few patches of trees: the rocks are compact sandstone and coarse slate.

Sunday, 27th.

"I have sworn by myself, the word is gone out of my mouth in righteousness, and shall not return; that unto me every knee shall bow, every tongue shall swear."-(Isaiah xlv. 23.)

Lord of the harvest, now descend,

Break up this dry, this fallow ground; May light and life thy word attend; Release the souls in darkness bound.

Ride on victorious to reclaim

The holds which Satan still defends; Proclaim thy great, thy glorious name To all the earth's remotest ends.

Immutable thy promise stands;

Thy purposes of love are sure; The time is set to loose the bands Which Afric's fettered sons endure.

Pity, O Lord! their lost estate;
Attend thy people's earnest cry,
Who plead for them, and supplicate,
Oh! leave them not in chains to die.

Shall he, the strong man armed, defy
The armies of the living God!
What! though with walls they're fenced on
high,

Prevailing prayer shall stay the rod.

Is there no son of Jesse here

No champion for the Lord of Hosts?
Shall Israel now turn back with fear,
In sight of promised Canaan's coasts?

Kindle afresh that holy zeal,

Which fired apostles' hearts of old: Arise, O Lord! thine arm reveal; Enlarge the borders of thy fold.

May many hearts, inclined by grace,

Themselves a free-will offering give-
To publish peace in every place,
Where sinners now in darkness live.

Till every border is possessed,

And Christ proclaimed in every land; Till then we would not-dare not restBut forward press at thy command.

And every city compass round,

Till grace shall bid the bulwarks fall, And joy and peace on earth abound, And Jesus shall be all in all.

English service in the forenoon.-Kafir service in the afternoon.

Monday, 28th.-Tedious travelling-one wagon obliged to be dug out of a swamp, and both to be towed separately up a steep hill by both spans united. On the descent from these acclivities, the rocks exhibit many appearances of combination with iron. Crossed another small stream, also a branch of the Umcamas, and soon after the river itself, the bed of which was strewed with rocks, and the water, in some places, scarcely knee-deep. The villages of the Inthlangwain, which had been for some time visible, could only be approached by a wagon, on account of the ruggedness of the ground, by a very circuitous route; that belonging to Foortu, the ruling chief, and at which we arrived soon after noon, is situated on the skirt of the narrow valley at the foot of the mountain; the remainder are generally on higher grounds, and have a pretty effect backed by the dark precipices beyond. In this favored spot vegetation is prolific; some large trees occupy the ravines, both wood and water are convenient, and corn is produced in abundance. There is on the opposite side of the river a salt pan, but it is of small extent; still, as it is the only one known to exist throughout the country on this side of the mountains, it might probably be turned to some account.

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