that, some time ago, while five or six native lads! were amusing themselves on the top, the grass below had been unexpectedly fired, and, fanned by the wind, the flames ascended so rapidly up the sides, that before they could descend by the only practicable path, the summit was encircled by the burning grass, and they all perished in the flames. The person charged with having bewitched Faku has lately been put to death; and as we approached the Gumkulu this morning, the blackened sites of his two villages, which were in consequence burnt down, were pointed out. After all that we have heard, a mystery still rests upon the fate of the messengers last sent to the Kei; that they have been murdered there is not the smallest doubt; but, from rumors among the natives, it is now strongly suspected that they never proceeded beyond the Amatembu country, but were put to death by order of Ferdana; should this prove to have been the real fact, it sufficiently accounts for his conduct to me. Sunday, 23rd. What are all our conflicts here, Conducted the services; about thirty natives attended. Tuesday, 25th.-Having decided on returning to Port Natal, I this morning took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton, for whose truly Christian hospitality I feel much indebted. The cart having been sent on the day before, I rode alone to Mr Fynn's hut, a little beyond the Great Place. Faku, as I approached his house, came out to meet me, and, with a marked expression of cordiality, gave me his hand, with the salutation, "Dakubona Umfundees" (I have seen your teacher.) Mr. Fynn accompanied me to Mr. Ogle's place on the Umsnodoosi, about seven miles beyond the Umzimvoobo, where the cart had already arrived. Wednesday, 26th.-Proceeded on my journey at seven. Passing one of Tpai's villages, I found on inquiry that they possessed some information respecting the inland route, which was likely to be useful; and thinking it possible that guides might be procured among these people, could the consent "Watch and pray, that ye enter not into tempta- of their chief be obtained, as we had not travelled tion."-(Matthew xxvi. 41.) If the name of Christ we bear- Not flesh and blood alone withstand, But principalities and powers; Beleaguered round on every hand, Defeat and ruin would be ours But He, the Shepherd of his fold, has said, To all that ask I freely give The prayer of faith shall never fail ; Seek, and your fainting soul shall live, And o'er your fiercest foes prevail. But we must watch as well as pray- Unwatchful prayer, like faith alone, The promised blessing ne'er attends "Tis only when its power is shown By vigilance, that grace descends. Lord, teach me now to pray aright, And unto prayer my soul sustain! Make me to walk as in Thy sight, Lest Satan some advantage gain. So shall I not Thy name disgrace, Sheltered beneath thy powerful arm ! And I shall soon behold Thy face, Where Satan has no power to harm. more than nine miles, I thought it would be desirable even to retrace our steps, and, before proceeding further, ascertain what prospect there was of getting through in that direction. One of my wa gons, which for some months had been left at Bunt ing, unable to proceed to the colony, was therefore sent for in preparation for such an expedition, and in the mean time I proposed a visit to Tpai, in the skirts of whose territory we now were. During our short journey this morning, we passed the spot where lieutenant Farewell left his wagons, and within twenty miles of the residence of Nato, chief of the Quawbi, by whom he and several of his party were shortly after murdered (1829.) The Quawbi were a revolted tribe of Zoolus, who had deserted from Charka, and taken with them many of his cattle. In their progress southward they committed dreadful devastations, penetrating the Amaponda country, and stretching even to the neighborhood of the Umtata, where they destroyed the first missionry station that had been established in that district. They were eventually repulsed by Faku, who, after considerable loss, concentrated his force on the right bank of the Umzimvoobo, at a point where that river makes an abrupt angle, pent in by opposing mountains, and attacked them with such vigor, that the greater part either fell under the assegai, or perished in the stream. This memorable spot, about two miles below the usual ford, has received from Europeans the name of Quawbi's Corner, while the appropriate title of Jazeeli (conqueror) has been given by his subjects to Faku, who himself headed the attack. Lieutenant Farewell was on his way to Port Natal, and induced by the friendly representations of some of the Quawbi, whom he met with on the road, to visit Nato for the purpose of purchasing cattle. On that very night, while in apparent security, this cold-blooded murder was perpetrated; instigated, The Wesleyan Society, to which this mission belonged afterwards removed it to Morley. as is generally supposed, by a jealous y of his influence with Charka, and a determination to obstruct the advantages which might accrue to his enemy from a commercial intercourse with Europeans. On my return I was much pleased with the attachment evinced by my servant Umpondombeeni, who, on being informed of the place I had in view, and asked if he were willing to accompany me, replied, "Yes-where you die I must die too." Although Tpai has lately commenced another place, about a day's journey to the northward, this is still regarded as the Gumkulu, and it is here that he transacts business of importance. The chief was unfortunately absent on his way to his new place, having left early this morning, and was not again expected for four days; when, it was said he would return to meet his Amaponda bride, the betrothed daughter of Faku. The Incosi-case (widow of Maddegän) was unwell, but immediately despatched messengers to acquaint Tpai of our arrival; and it was supposed that he would return as soon as the messengers reached him; but from the distance, he cannot be expected before Saturday afternoon. This place is built upon the slope of a steep hill, which forms one side of a wooded ravine, through which a small stream forces its way. The huts are dirty and wretched; and the whole village, both in situation and appearance, seems only fitted for the abode of a party of freebooters. Thursday, 27th.—Set out for Tpai's principal place, accompanied by Mr. Ogle, riding and walking alternately, as one of the horses had strayed, and could not be found in time. The distance is about twenty miles, in which we passed several villages scattered over a very uneven country. The approach to these villages was somewhat curious. It is a common practice throughout these tribes at this period of the year to suspend, for present use, large bunches of Indian corn from the branches of high trees in the immediate neighborhood of the huts, in order to secure them from Friday, 28th.-As we had brought no provisions, the depredation of rats; but here, in addition to and scarcely any thing could be procured here, we these indications of plenty, the symbols of war were should have been badly off had not Manadaza (the associated; the fur kilt, which is the principal part Incosi-case) considerately ordered a heifer to be of the war-dress, being frequently exhibited from killed for our use, which indeed was eagerly conthe trees a practical evidence of the warlike sumed by our two men and the people of the place; propensities of the owners. These people are but, as usual, was far too tough to benefit me called Amahōash, and originally inhabited a coun- much. Before it was slaughtered I went to the try on the right bank of the Umgăni, about eighty cattle-fold, where the people were assembled for miles from the coast, whence they were driven the purpose, in order to prevent the poor animal about thirteen years since by Charka, who, in his from being unnecessarily tortured. Although thirst for conquest, either drove or destroyed all the their method of killing cattle is in general use intermediate tribes as far as the Umzimcoolu. among the Amakosa and neighboring tribes, I had Among these were two powerful chiefs, Noombão never before witnessed it; and on being assured and Umdingi, who in their turn fell upon the tribes that it was as expeditious as any other mode of residing between that river and the Umsecaba. taking life, I allowed them to proceed. The unMaddegan, the brother of Tpai, and father of the fortunate animal, seized by its horns and legs, present minor, in his guardianship, wished to have was then thrown on its back, and held down by united himself with them in these wars for exist- several men until an opening was made by an asence and territory, but they would not consent; segai a little below the chest. Into this opening he therefore made war upon them, and, conquer- the man thrust his arm above the elbow, feeling ing them both, eventually took possession of the his way until he grasped the heart-string, which districts bordering the left bank of the Umzinvoo- by main force he broke, and then left the poor bo, where he and his tribes have now resided beast, writhing with pain, to linger several minabove three years and a half. During these wars, utes before it expired, breathing partly through which were of long continuance, their numbers the gaping wound. The horror of that sight, and were greatly reduced; but on the final defeat of the feelings I endured during the barbarous act, the Quawbi by the Amapondas, they fell upon will long be remembered; and most strenuously their rear, and contrived to possess themselves of would I recommend all missionaries and well-wishtheir cattle; and from that period have been gra-ers to humanity to exert their influence, if possible, dually recruiting their losses. At present their to abolish a practice at once so cruel and revolting. whole force is computed at about three thousand fighting-men-a small army indeed when compared with that of some of the neighboring states: but from the peculiar wariness of their attacksgenerally in the night-their acknowledged courage and indiscriminate carnage, never sparing either women or children, they have long been the terror of this part of the country; and under their present enterprising chief, were their population more numerous, would rival Charka himself in rapine and war. They are frequently receiving accessions from other tribes-already they are spreading themselves more to the north; and it is not improbable that they may eventually rise to be a powerful nation. A little before sunset we reached the Impoza, the "Great Place" of Maddegan, their late chief. The scene which followed was quite in keeping with the commencement. The paunch was immediately cut into strips, and, without washing, eagerly devouered on the spot. Within the circumference of the cattle-fold a fire was kindled, on which several steaks were thrown, and these in about ten minutes were considered sufficiently done, and by the united aid of teeth and assegai were hacked and torn into smaller pieces for immediate use. One man I observed, perhaps sharper set than the rest, dividing with his dog the raw flesh which he held between his teeth; having cut off sufficient for himself, he ate it with considerable satisfaction, although but the instant before it had been severed from the carcase. Determined that the want of a marrow-spoon should not deprive them of any part of their accustomed meal lins, the late assistant at Butterworth,) had been killed by his people, when he made an attack some months since upon the Amatembu; but as he had joined with them, and fired his gun upon his people, it could not be helped. I told him that we did not excuse the white man for uniting with his enemies, nor did we blame them for what had happened to him so employed. He signified his intention to forward through Mr. Fynn two elephant's teeth, as a present to the "Great Chief," in assurance of his friendly disposition; but, at the same time, should the white people ever come against him in a hostile manner, he was resolved to fight with them. a heavy thump upon a flat stone speedily dislodged the contents of every bone which came within their reach, unscathed by the neighboring fire, and the envied morsel was conveyed to the mouth by the elegant process of suction applied to the stone in question, which might probably have been lying embedded in the dust and dirt of the cattlefold for months before; even the blood was not rejected, but carefully collected in earthen vessels and carried away to be cooked; a circumstance which I consider remarkable, having among all these nations traced so many vestiges of Jewish rites. The disgusting practice of rubbing meat in the contents of the paunch of the beast from which it has been cut, is said to have the effect of On being again applied to respecting guides, preserving it, as it thereby acquires sufficient salt- he said that he could not order any to go, as ness to be kept for a considerable time, and in should any thing happen to us the blame would taste and appearance in some degree resembles probably be attributed to him. I then asked that which has been steeped in saltpetre. The whether, provided any could be found willing to choice pieces reserved for the chiefs, are always accompany me, he would withhold his consent. submitted to this operation, which obtains as well" No," he replied, "they have full liberty to go if among the Zoolus as the different Kafir tribes. Notwithstanding this appearance of plenty, boiled Indian corn, and outchualla (here, as well as among the Amapondas, called ejecki) were all that I could obtain; and having provided myself with a spoon, the section of a calabash, by way of basin, completed my dinner-service. This evening the chief arrived, having been overtaken on the road by the messengers, and we soon after paid him a visit. He received us in a large hut, the residence of his late brother Maddegan, but now occupied by his widow Manandaza. He was seated before the fire, without a particle of clothing, attended by eight or nine men, huddled together in an opposite side of the hut, while the Incosi-case, being an invalid, was stretched on a mat upon the floor in another corner. He seemed amused by my asking, as I entered, which was Tpai; but although the light was not favorable to a narrow inspection, it was soon evident that I was in the presence of one of the shrewdest and most desperate characters in this part of Africa. His figure is slight and active, of middle statue; but the searching quickness of his eye, the point of his questions, and the extreme caution of his replies, stamped him at once as a man capable of ruling the wild and sanguinary spirits by which he is surrounded. His inquiries were principally respecting Dingarn and the Kafir war. He wished to know when the English would withdraw their army from Kafir-land; and what I thought of Dingarn; whether the Zoolus were likely to go out to war this year, &c.; remarking that, whenever they did go out, they would be almost sure to make an attack upon him. Saturday, 29th.-It was late last night before any decided answer could be extracted from Tpai respecting the guides I am so anxious to obtain; and at last he ended by declining them altogether. Unwilling, however, to return without some further attempt, we paid him another visit this morning. On telling him that I was about to proceed to the colony, and inquiring if he had any message to the "Great Chief," he said he wished me to inform him that he was friendly to all the white people; that he had always protected those who had passed through his country; and that he was sorry that a white man (alluding to Mr. Rol they please; but I will not order them.' As the party had gradually increased to nineteen or twenty, I thought it a good opportunity to obtain some information as to their ideas respecting a Supreme Being, &c.; commencing the subject by inquiring of Tpai, whether he was willing to receive a missionary, should any be inclined to reside near him. To this proposal he readily assented; saying that he should be glad. It may be as well to mention here, that the generality of these chiefs are actuated by political motives in the favor and protection which they extend to missionaries residing among them; and that, although the result under the blessing of God may be such as would cause the heart of every sincere Christian to exult with joy and thanksgiving, the native ruler would merely anticipate a higher degree of respect from his neighbours, by being thus in some degree allied to the white people, with probably a remote prospect of protection from them, and a certain present advantage in the numerous presents which, according to custom, would fall to his share. This is but fair to mention-not with a view to scrutinize motives, but to obviate mistakes, and to show forth the manifold mercy and wisdom of God in over-ruling even the unsanctified wills of men to the extension of his own work of grace, and the promotion of his own glory. What a practical commentary to our Lord's words, "Let both grow together until the harvest." The conversation which took place I will now relate, as nearly as I can, in the precise words :— "Have you any knowledge of the power by whom the world was made? When you see the sun rising and setting, and the trees growing, do you know who made them and who governs them?" Tpai (after a little pause, apparently deep in thought)" No; we see them, but cannot tell how they come we suppose that they come of themselves." "To whom then do you attribut your success or failure in war?" Tpai-"When we are unsuccessful, and do not take cattle, we think that our father has not looked upon us." "Do you think your father's spirits made the world?" Tpai-"No." "Where do you suppose the spirit of a man goes after it leaves the body?" Tpai-"We cannot tell." "Do you ing his lifetime; in which case a very few years must decide their fate. As soon as we had taken our leave, Tpäi set out again for his other place; and shortly after we also retraced our steps. costume. The woolly hair of the women was a compound of mat, curl, and crumple, in every part excepting the forehead and back of the neck where, with great pains, it was reduced to a collection of long flaky ringlets; those in front almost concealing the eyes, and thickly besmeared with red ochre. Some few of the elder women wore a skin wrapper, approaching to a turban, after the manner of the Amatembu belles; but for a more minute description of their toilet, I must refer to the accompanying sketches taken on the spot. think it lives forever?" Tpai-"That we cannot tell; we believe that the spirit of our forefathers looks upon us when we go out to war; but we do not think about it any other time." "You admit that you cannot control the sun or the All these tribes have a peculiar method of dressmoon, or even make a hair of your head to grow. ing the hair: that in fashion here is very singular. Have you no idea of any power capable of doing Tpai, and many of the elder men, wore only the this?" Tpai-"No; we know of none: we Zoolu ring on the crown, while the generality of know that we cannot do these things, and we the younger men had so pushed and trimmed suppose that they come of themselves." Having their hair, as, in many instances, to give it the extracted this painful and truly humbling confes- perfect resemblance of a bishop's wig, with the sion, I concluded the subject by giving him a exception of several detached ringlets hanging brief outline of what we were taught in the down behind: the long fibres of a root thrust Scripture respecting God-death-heaven-hell! through the lobe of each ear completed this strange and the immortality of the soul! During the greater part of this conversation the Incosi-case was quietly reclining on her mat: she afterwards sat up a little, and I fully anticipated a long discussion would ensue; but she did not make the slightest remark. This woman* may be styled a queen of witches, and her appearance bespeaks her craft. Large coils of entrails stuffed with fat were suspended round her neck, while her thick and tangled hair, stuck over in all directions with the gall-bladders of animals, gave to her tall figure a very singularly wild and grotesque appearance. One of her devices, which occurred about six months ago, is too characteristic to be omitted. Tpai had assembled his army, and was on the eve of going out to war, a project which for some reason she thought it necessary to oppose. Finding that all her dissuasives were ineffectual, she suddenly quitted the place; and, accompanied only by a little girl, entirely concealed herself from observation. At the expiration of three or four days she, as mysteriously, returned; and holding her side, apparently bleeding from an assegai wound, pretended to have been received in her absence from the spirit of her late husband Maddegan, she presented herself before Tpai. "Your brother's spirit," she exclaimed, "has met me, and here is the wound he has made in my side with an assegai: he reproached me for remaining with people who had treated me so ill." Tpai, either willingly or actually imposed upon by this strange occurrence, countermanded the army; and, if we are to credit the good people in these parts, the wound immediately healed! For several months subsequent to this period, she took it into her head to crawl about upon her bands and knees; and it is only lately, I understand, that she has resumed her station in society as a biped. The animal necklace, before alluded to, is by no means an uncommon ornament among this tribe. Yesterday I observed a woman carrying an infant similarly arrayed: a lesser coil in due proportion being also twined about the little creatures neck. Being desirous to see the heir apparent before leaving, Tpai sent for him at my request, when Umtuchani, the hopeful chief, accompanied by his brother, soon appeared. Both are nice lads; the former about eleven or twelve years of age; but I could not regard them without some feeling of pity, as, with Tpai's sanguinary turn and love of power, it is doubtful whether he will permit the reins of government to pass into other hands dur Manandaza died shortly after. A severe retribution is often inflicted upon this cruel tribe; but, unfortunately, it has generally fallen upon those who are the least responsible. In their wars with the Amatembu, who, having killed their chief, Maddegan, in battle, have become their perpetual enemies, it has not been unfrequent to cut off the hands of the women who fall into their possession, in order the more readily to procure the brass rings and armlets that many of them wear. Two of these unfortunate creatures were observed at Impoza-one deprived of both, the other of one hand. How humbling is this view of humanity-desperately wicked indeed is the human heart when left to itself; and, until the light of the Gospel illumine these dark places of the earth, they will ever remain as designated by the unerring Word of God, eminently "the habitations of cruelty." May it please the God of all grace to cut short his work in righteousness, and deliver these poor captives from the bondage of Satan, and the shadow of death in which they are now sitting. Disappointed in the object of my visit (not a single individual volunteering to accompany me inland), we returned to the village we had left on Thursday before sunset. Sunday, 30th. "Who maketh thee to differ from another and what hast thou that thou didst not receive ?"—(1 Corinth. iv. 7.) Oh! what a thankless heart I bear, Though fraught with love my days have been; Yet how reluctant to declare The goodness and the truth I've seen. Why am I now exempt from pain, From pining want, and sickness spared? How many seek relief in vain, In every mortal grief have shared ! But deeper, higher blessings still Oh! what distinguished love is this, That I should e'er have known the sound Why am I thus to differ made, While millions still in darkness lie, Whose hearts would gladly have obeyed, Who would not have rebelled as I! "Tis only grace-and grace alone, Forever be its power proclaimed, A brand from out the burning caught— Some foretaste of their rapture lend. So when th' appointed days shall cease, And this cold heart no more shall beat; Long as eternity shall run A deeper gratitude will glow; The grace that was on earth begun In streams of endless bliss shall flow. Port and the Tugăla to withdraw; and, notwithstanding two entire regiments were stationed there, the whole moved off, and have never since occupied any portion of the country to the southward of that river, which is now considered as their boundary in that direction. A simultaneous movement was at the same time made by the inhabitants of Port Natal, both white and black, who, naturally apprehensive of retaliation on the part of Dingarn, left the country, and fled beyond the Umzimcoolu. The greater part of the latter soon returned, but many belonging to Mr. Fynn, Mr. Ogle, annd Mr. Cane still remained, and have established themselves in the places referred to, forming permanent villages, and cultivating the ground. Their people still acknowledge them as their chiefs, and are prepared to remove again to Port Natal whenever it may be required, regarding themselves as totally distinct from the neighboring states, among whom they have never been incorporated, although surrounded by them and living with them on the most friendly terms. The united population of these villages, which are prettily scattered over the neighboring hills, is estimated at fifteen hundred, every individual of whom would repair to Port Natal on the first announcement of its being placed under the protection of the British government As a proof that no hostile intentions were then in contemplation, Dingarn, soon after the arrival of the fugitives on the Umzimcoolu, despatched ten messengers, in cluding my present servant Umpondom beeni, to apologize for the attack upon the Hottentot wagon, and to request the white men would return. Shortly after a few did return, but the settlement was not generally re-occupied until about nine months subsequently. In the afternoon of this day my wagon arrived from Bunting, and as I was still buoying myself up with the hope of procuring a sufficient number of volunteers from among the English service in the hut in the forenoon. Kafir in the open air in the afternoon; about sixty-neighboring villages to prosecute the inland jourfive natives attended. Tuesday, Sept. 1st.-In reference to these locations which have been severally distinguished as places belonging to Mr. Fynn, Mr. Ogle, or Mr Cane, some explanation is necessary. In the month of June, 1833, Dingarn's army, on their return from Tpai's country, attacked a wagon belonging to some Hottentots on the right bank of the Umzimcoolu, and murdered all the people excepting three. The account soon reached Port Natal, and it was rumored that this was but the commencement of a general attack in contemplation upon the settlement. On their way home, a large detachment of the Zoolu army passed the neighborhood of Port Natal, which at once induced the natives to give full credence to the reports of their hostile designs; and, without waiting the developement of their plan, they mustered in large parties, in some instances assisted by the white people, and commenced firing upon them from the bushes as they pursued their route. The Zoolus, unaccustomed to the use of the muskets, and surprised at this unexpected attack, gave way, and unresistingly fled in all directions until they regained the main body, when the whole made the best of their way home. No sooner was the affair related to Dingarn, than he ordered all his people then inhabiting the district between the ney, all hands were soon occupied in constructing a new tilt, and getting provisions and every thing ready for the journey. Thursday, 3rd.-Nothwithstanding every effort, with the powerful inducement of cattle as a reward, not an individual would come forward, and the very name of the expedition had caused such a panic among the natives, that, although Mr. Ogle had engaged to accompany me, it was found necessary to abandon the attempt in this direction: and, every thing being ready, I set out this morning on my return to Port Natal, taking the wagon with me. Saturday, 5th.-Although the European seasons are here reversed we were not altogether without our September sport. Soon after we had left the habitable district, two natives brought intelligence that they had fallen in with two elephants at a little distance in advance of the road we were taking. As soon as we came to the spot they had pointed out, we left the wagons in charge of a few people, and went in quest of them. After walk ing about two miles, a party of natives still on the look out, assured us that they had entered a wooded ravine, for which we immediately made Groups of natives (Amapondas) occupied the heights in all directions to prevent their escape but would not venture themselves nearer. We |