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serve the treaty from being broken-which other- haps convey some idea of the features of this wise I had no power to enforce. The territory in | secluded valley :—

To

question was described by Umthlella and Tam-
booza, to whom I afterwards referred for an ex-
planation, as extending between the Tugăla and
Umzimcoolu rivers, north and south, and from the
sea coast to the Quathlamba or Snowy Mountains,
which form nearly a square, each side of which is
about one hundred and twenty geographical miles
in a direct line. Included within these limits,
they also informed me that the king had granted
to me personally the district about Port Natal from
the Umgani to the Umzimcoolu. Thinking it
would be more satisfactory to both parties, I offer-
ed some advice respecting a guarantee; which, if
required of all traders entering the country,
would tend to establish mutual confidence.
this, however, Dingarn would not listen-saying,
that all such matters must be regulated by me at
Port Natal; and that from this time he should not
receive any trader who had not previously obtain-
ed my consent; thus throwing the whole respon-
sibility upon me. I inquired if he would not make
some exceptions, particularizing one who was well
known to him. "No," he replied, "there must
be no difference; those who wish to trade must
first obtain leave from you; a message must then
be sent, signifying the same to me, and I will send
an answer to Port Natal. This is the place to
which they must come; and when they arrive I
will send round to all who wish to sell to them,
and the things shall be brought here." After a
few more observations, the subject, which had oc-
cupied nearly an hour, was ended; and, at his re-
quest, I entered his house in order to take his
measure for a pair of slippers. It was as I had
imagined-empty; women being always excluded
while business is transacting. I soon after took
my leave, on which he evinced much sincerity in
his good wishes for a prosperous journey.

At three o'clock this afternoon I set out on my return, reaching Amachingani at half-past six; where, with my interpreter, I remained for the night. The baggage-bearers did not get beyond Ukittaketǎni, one of the king's villages, where we had proposed sleeping, but had missed the path in the dark. Procured a mat, and with my saddle as a pillow, and the horse-rug as a covering, soon forgot the loss of my baggage.

Sweet vale!-Thlatoosi lingers here,

Lost in the mazes of yon rocky steep;
His murmuring waters deep and clear,
In many a graceful winding sweep,
Reluctant hence to force his way
Through channels where he loves to stray.
And here I fain would linger too,

Soothed by a scene so bright-so fair;
Trace all your deep recesses through,

And gaze upon the beauties there; Till every thought is raised from earth, To Him who gave the mountains birth.

Methinks these beauteous spots remain,
Like virtues in the savage breast,
Mementos that we still retain

Of purity at first impressed;
Brief notices of Eden's joy,
That sin itself could not destroy.

They speak in heavenly accents still,

And tell of days when all was good,
And seem to ask-"What caused this ill:
Who has creative power withstood-
Why mute the lips that grateful bore
Thanksgivings to our God before ?"

Lord when shall man unite his praise?
Let not thy creature stand alone;
Cause him again to know thy ways,

All else thy power and goodness own.
On these dry bones thy spirit breathe,
And all thy wonted love bequeath.

So shall each rugged glen and bower
Throughout this vale a witness bear
Of Jesus' all constraining power,

And echo back the Zoolu's prayer;
Till grace thine image shall restore,
And melt the hearts were steeled before.

Between this spot and Amahushani I observed on many of the ridges a stratum of rock, similar to that used as crucibles for melting brass at Unkunginglove. It is a very coarse, soft sandstone; and has the remarkable property of standing any degree of heat.

Tuesday, 14th.-Early this morning the people arrived, accompanied also by a messenger from Dingarn, who had despatched him soon after we Wednesday, 15th.-An ox, which had been left yesterday. The purport of his message was driven before us from Ukittaketani, was killed last to say that the king did not think he had sufficiently night; and by the time we were ready to start thanked me for some fresh presents I had pro- this morning the only vestige was a leg,—the remised him, that if I brought him any thing cu- mainder having been quietly disposed of by my rious he should be obliged; this, however, he twelve baggage-bearers, who, as usual, were dewould leave to me, as I now knew what he liked: corated with fat and fillets of hide bound round but that which he desired the most was more of their foreheads, the hair hanging over their eyes, the red-cloth stuff. This I promised I would en- which gave them an unusually wild appearance. deavor to procure; and soon after seven proceeded There had been rain during the night, and the day on my journey. The grass, on the parts where it was one of the coldest I have felt in this country: had not been burnt, was so completely dried up as a proof, ice was seen in the hollows of some of that we might literall be said to ride through stand- the ravines which we passed in the early part of ing hay. Reached Engukani, the first village in the morning, and the grass in those situations was the valley of Thlatoosi, at a quarter to eleven; a covered with a hoar frost. After traversing the halting-place which I always delight in, though Amaguya mountain-which rises very abruptly, the scenery between the two next winds of the and is seen to a great distance-we reached soon river is the finest. The following lines may per-after eleven a small village at its foot, called

required. Without waiting for them I proceeded again at three, attended by my interpreter and two servants. Soon after sunset we crept into some dilapidated hunters' huts by the road-side; which, though parly unthatched, afforded a tolerable shelter until the moon arose at two, when I pushed on with my interpreter, leaving the men to follow at day-light.

Friday, 17th.-Reached Berea this afternoon, at a quarter-past three; and soon after rode to Mr. Collis's, six miles distant, in order to acquaint him with the very awkward situation in which Dingarn had placed me, and to inform him of the measures I had in consequence taken with respect to the trade; in all which he expressed his entire concurrence. Returned home at eight; having been fifteen hours on horseback, since two o'clock this morning, and that without a relay. No tidings had been heard respecting the recent deser

ters.

Amatchubani; and thence, proceeding by Etand- | for the baggage, I sent a message to the White wăni, reached the Injandūna at two. Cokella as Shields, requesting Nongalaza to procure the men we rode up, was seated near the gate with a party of men, warming themselves round a fire. Although they replied to two or three questions which I asked, they appeared for a few minutes to take little notice of us, when suddenly Cokella rose, and saluting me with a loud Dakubōna (I have seen you,) seized me by the hand; the rest all followed his example some holding me by the arm, others by the wrist, but each, with the most friendly intention, saluting me as they supposed after the English fashion, which, out of compliment to me, they had endeavored to imitate. Besides a list of four men, sixteen women, and five children-all deserters which had been given to me on the day I left Unkunginglove, and which must, no doubt, have greatly annoyed Dingarn, to whom they had just been reported-I was here informed that Bengapi, the principal wife of Zoolu (Indoona of the Black Clomantheleen) had absconded eight days ago, and had taken the road to Port Natal. Having presented Cokella with the cloth I had Saturday, 18th.-As Dingarn has resolved that promised him for an ingoobo (cloak,) I went on I shall be responsible for the good conduct of immediately to the Black Shields-Cokella, and every individual who crosses his frontier from the the whole of the people assembling at the gate as vicinity of Port Natal, my obvious duty appears to we rode off, wishing me a good journey; and be, without delay, to communicate with his Excelhoping that I should "go well on the path." On lency Sir Benjamin D'Urban, the governor of the my arrival, Zoolu, who is a fine-looking chief, with Cape Colony, on the subject, with the hope of oba Roman nose and commanding appearance, came taining his sanction for the appointment of some out of his hut with several attendants. He seem- officer, with sufficient powers to enforce the treaty, ed as little concerned about the fate of his wife as any and regulate the affairs of the settlement. In the of the bystanders; saying, that he hoped she would mean time the trade, with one admitted exception be taken, though he must have been well aware of in favor of Mr. Collis, has been virtually stopped, the cruel death which would assuredly await her having no legal authority to demand a recognion reaching Unkūnginglove. Neither himself zance from each individual trader, without which nor Cokella could charge her with any fault; and guarantee I cannot conscientiously take upon myit appeared to them both (as it certainly did to me) self the responsibility of their future conduct. The a mystery why she should risk her life by going inconvenience which may be felt cannot but be to a place where, if discovered, she would most temporary; and it appeared to me of far more imassuredly be sent back in confinement. It is possi-portance to preclude the possibility of any infracble that she may have buoyed herself up with the hope of security, on hearing of a circumstance which took place just before I last crossed the Tugăla. Two natives from Port Natal had, with the sanction of their white chief, been actually attempting, with the offer of beads, to induce their relatives in the Zoolu country to desert and join them there. These men we met on their return as we were approaching the river, little. suspecting their design but the very attempt, so immediately after, and directly opposed to the terms of the treaty then in force, might have led Bengapi to suppose that she would be well received. Both a wife and a child in this country are designated by the term Umtuana, which is puzzling to a stranger; and without further inquiry liable to lead into mistake. For instance, when last in this neighborhood, Zoolu had excused himself from attending the service on Sunday, on the plea that his child was past recoveryy-or dead; as the messenger expressed it. This child, however, now turns out to have been one of his wives, now convalescent; but who it seems had been in a dangerous state. Reached Mangnenas soon after four; but the baggage did not arrive until some time after. Thursday, 16th.-Crossed the Tugala, and breakfasted at Mr. Plankenberg's. Not being able to procure a sufficient number of fresh bearers

tion of the treaty, than that the trade should be allowed to proceed in its present unorganized state. The subject, unfortunately, does not rest here, but involves what is of much greater consequence than mere trade-the character of our own countrymen, and the interests of religion and civilization at large. To attempt any amelioration in the condition and habits of the nativesto endeavor to instruct them in the doctrines and practice of vital religion, would, humanly speaking, be futile, while subject to an influence too baneful to be particularized, and daily familiarized to such glaring derelictions from Christian duty, as must tend greatly to compromise any counter effort that might be made by the most devoted and indefatigable missionary exertions. On the other hand, if we consider the mere thread by which personal security is held from day to day-the integrity of a treaty already tacitly infringed-the very existence of a missionary establishment becomes involved in the measures that may be adopted for its punctual fulfilment.

Full well do I know and feel, that whenever a minister of the Gospel turns aside to mingle in politics, insomuch has he departed from his evident path of duty. His single, undivided aim should be the glory of his Lord and Master, to whom he must shortly give an account of his stewardship:

and through good report, and evil report, regardless alike of opposition or danger, he will neither lean to his own understanding, nor depend for success upon his own unworthy endeavors; thankful to feel, and to acknowledge, that neither his ability nor his success depends upon himself, but alone proceeds from above. There are, however, situations and circumstances, and this appears to be one, in which it is his duty to use his influence in procuring, and in all cases in supporting, such civil authorities as may be requisite in for the suppression of vice, and the well-being of the community in which he resides. Under this view of the whole subject, and although acting at present in the capacity of a missionary, until ordained ministers of the church of England can be induced to occupy these stations, I have resolved to proceed immediately to the colony, for the purpose of obtaining the advice of his excellency the governor, without awaiting the arrival of the trading sloop, now more than three months absent, and whose return may be yet unavoidably protracted.

During my absence, a report has obtained circulation among the natives here (whether true or false I have now no means of ascertaining,) that several of the Zoolu chiefs, with Umthlella at their head, during my last visit, resolved to take my life, alleging that they were suspicious of the influence I had obtained with Dingarn; but that the design was over-ruled by himself and one of his father's widows, named Umkabai. Should there be any real foundation for such a report, I have indeed great cause for gratitude to a merciful God, in having been preserved from the pending danger; but I cannot for a moment entertain the supposition, their conduct having been latterly so friendly, and their desire to place this part of the country under my control having been so openly and so cordially avowed.

Sunday, 19th.

"Be ye reconciled to God."-2 Corinth. v. 20.

Oh! the depth of sovereign grace,
While in sin's dark ways we trod;
Jesus seeks our rebel race,

"Be ye reconciled to God!"

And can it be-the Lord from heaven
A suppliant at the sinner's feet?
He, whose blood for us was given,
Thus humbly deigning to entreat!

Well may angels long to know

The mystery of such boundless love; And wonder as they gaze below,

And mark how cold our bosoms prove.

That God had e'er a way devised

To reconcile himself to those
Who long his proffered grace despised,

A depth of love unmeasured shows.
But language fails-no words can tell,
Nor human powers the riches trace,
Which in those wondrous accents dwell, --
The fulness of redeeming grace.

With shame our faces let us veil,
Whene'er those gracious words we read,
Our deep ingratitude bewail,-

For pardon, and for mercy plead.

Then, in a world of light above,
Our grateful song will ceaseless be
Worthy the Lamb, whose conquering love
Has reconciled my God to me.

Not more than thirty natives present at the Kafir service, the people not being aware of my return.

Monday, 20th.-Commenced my journey this day, but not so early as I had hoped, having waited some time for the people with my baggage from the Tugala, and eventually started without it; so that we had no tent by the way. For the sake of speed the section of a wagon, viz. the hind wheels with a platform secured upon the bed, had been prepared; and with this nondescript vehicle and two spans of eight oxen, accompanied by my interpreter and Umpondombeeni, I set out from Berea at one o'clock, and bivouacked for the night on the right bank of the Pongata. Tuesday, 21st.-Crossed the Mansbitote and Eloffe; and at half-past four descended a steep hill to the Umcamas, whence we continued our route to a rocky stream beyond, stopping, on a hill on the other side, for the night, at a quarterpast six. A piece of loose canvas thrown over the cart formed my tent; my bed, being spread between the wheels on the ground, which, from having so often fared worse, I considered in some respects luxurious.

Wednesday, 22nd. -- Although knee-haltered, my horse contrived to stray away during the night; and after sending back to the Umcamas, and vainly searching in all directions, I was obliged to proceed without him, taking my uneasy station at half-past ten upon one of the boxes on the cart, which had no sides. I had not been very long in my new position, when, in passing a wooded defile, the wheel came in contact with a stump, oversetting the vehicle, and tossing my interpreter and myself into the bushes: providentially neither of us was hurt. The difficulty now was to raise the vehicle; two of the oxen were chained for this purpose to the upper wheel, but all our attempts failed to induce them to pull in the right direction; so that it became necessary to take every thing off, and even then it was not without some difficulty that, with our united strength, we were enabled to raise it to its former position. We now found that one of the standards had been broken by the fall; but this, after a little contrivance, we were enabled to remedy. By this accident we were delayed more than an hour. The road soon after descends to the beach, when we crossed the Umpombinyon. The mattingoolos were still ripe, and many of the trees retained their blossom. The pulp of this fruit is very like raspberry and cream, and partakes in some slight degree of the flavor also. The tree is bushy, with a glossy deep green leaf, and is covered with sharp thorns. The star-shaped blossom is of a delicate white, with a jessamine sent. It is never observed to grow beyond a mile from the coast. There is also another wild fruit

abundant in this part; it is about the size of a coffee-berry, with a rough flavor; contains a stone, and grows near the sea upon a low shrub, with thickest rounded leaves. Reached Mr. Cane's village at a quarter-past four, when we commenced repairing damages. This is not the spot where the canoe was built; the village which then existed, about half a mile distant, having since been removed to this place. A bullock was here procured and slaughtered, as provisions for the remainder of the journey across the uninhabited district.

Thursday, 23rd.-Having deposited our supply of meat in the skin of the animal suspended underneath the cart, we proceeded soon after nine. Observed frequent traces of wild boar. The generality of the rivers being pent up at their mouths by sandy bars, the waters from the interior frequently expand over a wide surface within the bank, having all the appearance of small lakes. In these situations hippopotami were occasionally seen; their noses only emerging from the water. They are likewise resorted to by flocks of wild ducks, which sometimes rose on our approach; while on the higher grounds the pow (a large species of bustard) was frequently

seen.

Friday, 24th.-The tracks of hippopotami, panther, hyena, with many animals of the deer kind, have been numerous, and were readily distinguished while occasionally passing along the beach; but, in addition to these, both yesterday and to-day, we have traced for some distance the foot-prints of a lion. On descending to the upper ford of the Umzimcoolu, we observed several hippopotami sunning themselves upon a sand-bank, in the middle of the stream. The scenery in this neighborhood is very beautiful; the banks are prettily wooded and margined by high broken hills, commanding fine views of the river, for some distance winding below. We were nearly an hour in effecting the passage across; the water being in one part so high that the oxen were obliged to swim, and consequently every article in the boxes was wet.

Had we been but half an hour later, the tide, which was still rising, would have prevented us from crossing; indeed, before we left the river was full, the tide flowing considerably above the ford. Thought much of the gracious providence by which I was saved, when last here, from a situation of great anxiety and distress. With the Psalmist I have indeed cause to say, "Bless the Lord, O my soul! and forget not all His benefits." The contents of the boxes having been spread out and tolerably dried by the sun, we again proceeded, when I soon after had another most providential escape: a large bough, concealed by the high grass, had been borne down by the wheel, and suddenly swung back with great force, knocking off my hat, and just grazing my head. Had it struck my forehead, from its size, it would probably have been fatal. At six we halted under some bushes for the night.

gay and beautiful to the eye, but few of them have any scent; still, notwithstanding my frequent disappointments, I have found myself almost mechanically plucking them as they occurred in the path. It was in consequence of one of these disappointments that the following lines were written :

THE DESERT FLOWER.

Why is that beauteous flower neglected,
So gaudily arrayed ?
Why is it cast aside, rejected,
To wither, and to fade?

Delighted, when I took it up,
Its fragrance to enjoy ;

I found no sweetness in its cup-
'Twas but a gay decoy.

Why then so richly clad methought—
So gorgeously attired?

It did not spread its flower for nought,
Alone to be admired.

Ah! no-an emblem here I trace
Of what the world so prize;
A heart subdued-but not by grace-
Corruption in disguise.

Our boasted virtues oft expand

Like this fair desert flower;
While we deny the bounteous hand

That keeps us every hour.

With Judas we may well inquire,

"What need for all this waste ?"
The graces we so much admire,
In selfishness are based.

Such is morality alone,

A painted scentless thing;
Attractive-till by grace we're shown
Whence real virtues spring.

The whole of this district bordering the coast must formerly have abounded with palmyra trees, as the stumps, from five to twelve feet in height, are numerous; but scarcely a single tree is now remaining. the natives having destroyed them either for fuel or for the pith of the branches; which, together with that of the strelitza, still abundant, are said to have been frequently resorted to by way of subsistence, when traversing these desolate regions. The palmetta, or low shrubby palmyra, grows every where in thick clumps; usually about the stems of the decayed palmyra. Although the strelitza is commonly designated as the wild banana, it differs considerably from it in two remarkable particulars. The flags of the banana-leaf are pendulous, whereas these open upwards: the branches of the former spring from all sides of the trunk; these only from opposite sides, forming a sort of fan as they spread upwards.

Saturday, 25th.-Unable to proceed before ten, At noon we crossed the Umthlanga, the fourth the oxen having strayed to a considerable distance river from the Umzincoolu, from whence the in quest of grass, that immediately around us hav-country became open, with fewer trees. Some ing been recently burnt. Throughout this wil- granite rocks, of a reddish color, occurred on one derness many of the wild plants are exceedingly point as we descended to the beach. The several

rivers which we are now passing are completely impeded in their course by a sandy bar, extending across their mouths; which, during the summer months, when they are full, is frequently burst by the volume of water, and a small passage opened to the sea. At half-past five we crossed the bar of the Umbezăn. It was on the left bank of this river that the settlers took up their first station when they abandoned Port Natal, in 1833; they remained here for about two months, and then returned to the right bank of the Umzimcoolu; where the greater part continued for eight or nine months longer.

This river winds prettily among wooded hills, and is a fine feature from the road. Soon after six we halted. In these tedious journeys, which can only be undertaken at a foot-pace, no time can be spared for much preparation in cooking; the meat, to be eatable, requires hours. I therefore contented myself with ezinqua, (native bread) composed of Indian corn, baked in the wood-ashes, or gruel either of the same meal, or of lupoko.There is, however, a very ready and ingenious way of cooking a chop, well known among the natives, and often practised in these parts. Two or three sticks being pealed and pointed at both ends, the meat, cut into small pieces, is strung upon them as upon a skewer, they are then fixed in the ground, when a few dead boughs and branches kindled below soon do the needful. I have often envied my party this hearty meal, but have never yet succeeded in my endeavor to reduce the leathery substance to any digestible di

mensions.

Sunday, 26th.

Lord, is it I?"-(Matthew xxvi. 22.)
While still in this cold world we dwell,
By sin beset, by self allured;
While oft our stubborn hearts rebel,
"Tis well to have our faith assured;
And oft repeat that carnest cry,
Lord, tell me tell me, is it I?

How oft our actions seem to say,
We're still our own-no price was paid:
Who is the Lord we should obey?

And he who bought us is betrayed!
Not Judas only-all may cry,
Lord, tell me tell me, is it I?

The more a Saviour's love we feel,

The deeper anguish we shall share; And pray that grace may yet reveal,

The hidden sin that's lurking there: E'en he on Jesus' breast could cry, Lord, tell me tell me, is it I?

The careless walk, the heartless prayer, The cherished wish for earthly gain, As much the traitor's heart declare,

And prove that we the cross disdain : As though we could our Lord deny, And ask, in malice-is it I?

Lord keep this treacherous heart of mine-
Alas! too prone from Thee to stray;
No strength have I-but grant me thine,
Direct and lead me in the way:

And should I e'er thy name deny,

Conviction strike with-"It is I." And while a Peter's grief I féel,

Thy pardon and thy love reveal.

Rain nearly all the morning; when it cleared up, held the English and Kafir services.

Monday, 27th.-Set out at eight. On reaching the beach, observed several rocks containing great quantities of marine shells-chiefly of the muscle kind. On Saturday morning we met a party of natives from the Umzimvoobo-their idea of English warfare was curious; being questioned respecting the news from Kafir-land, they informed us that the English army had driven the Amakōsa from the open country; but that they had taken refuge in the woods, and the troops were only waiting until the weather was warmer to beat them out. To-day, we met another party from the same neighborhood; who, in reply to my question, where the Amakosa were, said "they were stopping where they had always been:" so little reliance can be placed upon the reports of these people. After crossing the bars of three rivers, the tide just washing over the crest of the last as we passed, we proceeded along the beach, under a wall of singularly caverned rocks on the right. We were but just in time; the spring-tides had raised the water in many parts to the very foot of the rocks, rendering the passage somewhat difficult. It is generally supposed that the survivors from the wreck of the Grosvenor East Indiaman, which was lost near this spot, found a temporary shelter in these comfortless caverns ;-a supposition which is not improbable, from the circumstance of their being still designated by the natives as the "White men's houses." Notwithstanding the wind and rain, which had continued for some time, we were unable to find any place of shelter until after six-when we turned into a small opening from the beach, formed by a stream; and after much trouble succeeded in kindling a fire in front of a clump of low bushes, into which, with the aid of an axe, we had hewn out a sort of den for our reception. The shelter, however, was merely imaginary; for, notwithstanding the canvas which was duly spread over the boughs, the dripping from above was almost worse than the actual rain, and contributed its quota to moisten our clothes and bedding already sufficiently wet. While the fire, which in other circumstances would have proved an essential comfort, became my greatest annoyance; the violence of the wind driving the smoke full into my face, filling every crevice of our arbor, and almost depriving me of sight. All this was happily disregarded by the natives-who, almost grilling themselves by the embers, slept soundly through the night. In these respects they are perfect salamanders-not unfrequently arranging the burning faggots with their feet.With the same unconcern they will dip their hands into the cooking-vessels, and deliberately feed themselves with the Indian corn while it is still boiling in the water; occasionally shifting the grain from one hand to the other for a few seconds, and then tossing it into their mouths.With this simple fare they are quite satisfied, and will undertake the longest journeys: indeed our own condition was but little better, the meat,

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