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serve the treaty from being broken—which other. haps convey some idea of the features of this wise I had no power to enforce. The territory in secluded valley :question was described by Umthlella and Tambooza, to whom I afterwards referred for an ex Sweet vale !—Thlatoosi lingers here, planation, as extending betwcen the Tugă la and Lost in the mazes of yon rocky steep; Umzircoolu rivers, north and south, and from the His murmuring waters deep and clear, sea coast to the Quathlamba or Snowy Mountains, In many a graceful winding sweep, which form nearly a square, each side of which is Reluctant hence to force his way about one hundred and twenty geographical miles Through channels where he loves to stray. in a direct line. Included within these limits, they also informed me that the king had granted And here I fain would linger too, to me personally the district about Port Natal from Soothed by a scene so bright—so fair; the Umgăni to the Umzimcoolu. Thinking it Trace all your deep recesses through, would be more satisfactory to both parties, I offer And gaze upon the beauties there; ed some advice respecting a guarantee; which, if Till every thought is raised from earth, required of all traders entering the country, To Him who gave the mountains birth. would tend to establish mutual confidence. To this, however, Dingarn would not listen-saying, Methinks these beauteous spots remain, that all such matters must be regulated by me at Like virtues in the savage breast, Port Natal; and that from this time he should not Mementos that we still retain receive any trader who had not previously obtain Of purity at first impressed; ed my consent; thus throwing the whole respon Brief notices of Eden's joy, sibility upon me. I inquired if he would not make That sin itself could not destroy. some exceptions, particularizing one who was well known to him. • No," he replied, “there must They speak in heavenly accents still, be no difference ; those who wish to trade must And tell of days when all was good, first obtain leave from you; a message must then And seem to ask _“What caused this ill : be sent, signifying the same to me, and I will send Who has creative power withstoodan answer to Port Natal. This is the place to Why mute the lips that grateful bore which they must come; and when they arrive I Thanksgivings to our God before ?" will send round to all who wish to sell to them, and the things shall be brought here.” After a Lord! when shall man unite his praise ? few more observations, the subject, which had oc Let not thy creature stand alone; cupied nearly an hour, was ended ; and, at his re Cause him again to know thy ways, quest, I entered his house in order to take his All else thy power and goodness own. measure for a pair of slippers. It was as I had On these dry bones thy spirit breathe, imagined-empty; women being always excluded And all thy wonted love bequeath. while business is transacting. I soon after took my leave, on which he evinced much sincerity in So shall each rugged glen and bower his good wishes for a prosperous journey.

Throughout this vale a witness bear At three o'clock this afternoon I set out on my

Of Jesus' all constraining power, return, rcaching Amachingani at half-past six ; And echo back the Zoolu's prayer ; where, with my interpreter, I remained for the Till grace thine image shall restore, night. The baggage-bearers did not get beyond And melt the hearts were steeled before. Ukittaketăni, one of the king's villages, where we had proposed sleeping, but had missed the path in Between this spot and Amahushani I observed the dark. Procured a mat, and with my saddle as on many of the ridges a stratum of rock, similar a pillow, and the horse-rug as a covering, soon to that used as crucibles for melting brass at forgot the loss of my baggage.

Unkūnginglove. It is a very coarse, soft sandTuesday, 14th.-Early this morning the people stone ; and has the remarkable property of standarrived, accompanied also by a messenger from ing any degree of heat. Dingarn, who had despatched him soon after we Wednesday, 15th.—An ox, which had been Jeft yesterday. The purport of his message was driven before us from Ukittaketăni, was killed last to say that the king did not think he had sufficiently night; and by the time we were ready to start thanked me for some fresh presents I had pro- this morning the only vestige was a leg,-the remised him,—that if I brought him any thing cu- mainder having been quietly disposed of by my rious he should be obliged; this, however, he twelve baggage-bearers, who, as usual, were dewould leave to me, as I now knew what he liked: corated with fat and fillets of hide bound round but that which he desired the most was more of their foreheads, the hair hanging over their eyes, the red-cloth stuff. This I promised I would en- which gave them an unusually wild appearance. deavor to procure; and soon after seven proceeded There had been rain during the night, and the day on my journey. The grass, on the parts where it was one of the coldest I have felt in this country : had not been burnt, was so completely dried up as a proof, ice was seen in the hollows of some of that we might literall be said to ride through stand- the ravines which we passed in the early part of ing hay. Reached Engukani, the first village in the morning, and the grass in those situations was the valley of Thlatoosi, at a quarter to eleven; a covered with a boar frost. After traversing the halting-place which I always delight in, though Amaguya mountain-which rises very abruptly, the scenery between th

two next winds of the and is seen to a great distance—we reached soon river is the finest. The following lines may per- after eleven a small village at its foot, called

Amatchubāni; and thence, proceeding by Etand- | for the baggage, I sent a message to the White wăni, reached the Injandūna at two. Cokella as Shields, requesting Nongālaza to procure the men we rode up, was seated near the gate with a party required. Without waiting for them I proceeded of men, warming themselves round a fire. Although again at three, attended by my interpreter and they replied to two or three questions which I two servants. Soon after sunset we crept into asked, they appeared for a few minutes to take some dilapidated hunters' huts by the road-side ; little notice of us, when suddenly Cokella rose, and which, though parly unthatched, afforded a tolerasaluting me with a loud Dakubūna (I have seen ble shelter until the moon arose at two, when I you,) seized me by the hand; the rest all followed pushed on with my interpreter, leaving the men to his example--some holding me by the arm, others follow at day-light. by the wrist, but each, with the most friendly in Friday, 17th.—Reached Berea this afternoon, tention, saluting me as they supposed after the at a quarter-past three; and soon after rode to English fashion, which, out of compliment to me, Mr. Collis's, six miles distant, in order to acquaint they had endeavored to imitate. Besides a list of him with the very awkward situation in which four men, sixteen women, and five children—all Dingarn had placed me, and to inform him of the deserters which had been given to me on the day measures I had in consequence taken with respect I left Unkūnginglove, and which must, no doubt, to the trade; in all which he expressed his entire have greatly annoyed Dingarn, to whom they had concurrence. Returned home at eight; having just been reported—I was here informed that been fifteen hours on horseback, since two o'clock Bengäpi, the principal wife of Zoolu (Indoona of this morning, and that without a relay. No tid. the Black Clomantheleen) had absconded eight ings had been heard respecting the recent ser, days ago, and had taken the road to Port Natal. ters.

Having presented Cokella with the cloth I had Saturday, 18th.--As Dingarn has resolved that promised him for an ingoobo (cloak,) I went on I shall be responsible for the good conduct of immediately to the Black Shields—Cokella, and every individual who crosses his frontier from the the whole of the people assembling at the gate as vicinity of Port Natal, my obvious duty appears to we rode off, wishing me a good journey; and be, without delay, to communicate with his Excelhoping that I should go well on the path. On lency Sir Benjamin D’Urban, the governor of the my arrival, Zoolu, who is a fine-looking chief, with Cape Colony, on the subject, with the hope of oba Roman nose and commanding appearance, came taining his sanction for the appointment of some out of his hut with several attendants. He seem- officer, with sufficient powers to enforce the treaty, ed as little concerned about the fate of his wife as any and regulate the affairs of the settlement. In the of the bystanders; saying, that he hoped she would mean time the trade, with one admitted exception be taken, though he must have been well aware of in favor of Mr. Collis, has been virtually stopped, the cruel death which would assuredly await her having no legal authority to demand a recognion reaching Unkūnginglove. Neither himself zance from each individual trader, without which nor Cokella could charge her with any fault; and guarantee I cannot conscientiously take upon myit appeared to them both (as it certainly did to me) self the responsibility of their future conduct. The a mystery why she should risk her life by going inconvenience which may be felt cannot but be to a place where, if discovered, she would most temporary; and it appeared to me of far more imassuredly be sent back in confinement. It is possi- portance to preclude the possibility of any infracble that she may have buoyed herself up with the tion of the treaty, than that the trade should be hope of security, on hearing of a circumstance allowed to proceed in its present unorganized which took place just before I last crossed the state. The subject, unfortunately, does not rest Tugăla. Two natives from Port Natal had, with here, but involves what is of much greater conthe sanction of their white chief, been actually at- sequence than mere trade—the character of our tempting, with the offer of beads, to induce their own countrymen, and the interests of religion and relatives in the Zoolu country to desert and join civilization at large. To attempt any ameliorathem there. These men we met on their return as tion in the condition and habits of the natives-we were approaching the river, little suspecting to endeavor to instruct them in the doctrines and their design: but the very attempt, so immediately practice of vital religion, would, humanly speaking, after, and directly opposed to the terms of the be futile, while subject to an influence too banelul treaty then in force, might have led Bengápi to to be particularized, and daily familiarized to such suppose that she would be well received. Both a glaring derelictions from Christian duty, as must wife and a child in this country are designated by tend greatly to compromise any counter effort that the term Umtuäna, which is puzzling to a stran- might be made by the most devoted and indefatiger; and without further inquiry liable to lead into gable missionary exertions. On the other hand, mistake. For instance, when last in this neigh- if we consider the mere thread by which personal borhood, Zoolu had excused himself from atten- security is held from day to day—the integrity of ding the service on Sunday, on the plea that his a treaty already tacitly infringed—the very existchild was past recovery-or dead; as the messen-ence of a missionary establishment becomes inger expressed it. This child, however, now turns volved in the measures that may be adopted for out to have been one of his wives, now convales- its punctual fulfilment. cent; but who it seems had been in a dangerous Full well do I know and feel, that whenever a state. Reached Mangnenas soon after four ; but minister of the Gospel turns aside to mingle in the baggage did not arrive until some time after. politics, insomuch has he departed from his evident

Thursday, 16th.--Crossed the Tugăla, and path of duty. His single, undivided aim should be breakfasted at Mr. Plankenberg's. Not being the glory of his Lord and Master, to whom he able to procure a sufficient number of fresh bearers must shortly give an account of his stewardship:

and through good report, and evil report, regard With shame our faces let us veil, less alike of opposition or danger, he will neither Whene'er those gracious words we read, lean to his own understanding, nor depend for suc Our deep ingratitude bewail,cess upon his own unworthy endeavors ; thankful For pardon, and for mercy plead. to feel, and to acknowledge, that neither his ability nor his success depends upon himself, but alone Then, in a world of light above, proceeds from above. There are, however, situa Our grateful song will ceaseless be tions and circumstances, and this appears to be Worthy the Lamb, whose conquering love one, in which it is his duty to use his influence in Has reconciled my God to me. procuring, and in all cases in supporting, such civil authorities as may be requisite in for the suppres Not more than thirty natives present at the sion of vice, and the well-being of the community Kafir service, the people not being aware of my in which he resides. Under this view of the whole return. subject, and although acting at present in the ca Monday, 20th.—Commenced my journey this pacity of a missionary, until ordained ministers of day, but not so early as I had hoped, having the church of England can be induced to occupy waited some time for the people with my baggage these stations, I have resolved to proceed imme- from the Tugăla, and eventually started without diately to the colony, for the purpose of obtaining it; so that we had no tent by the way. For the the advice of his excellency the governor, without sake of speed the section of a wagon, viz. the awaiting the arrival of the trading sloop, now hind wheels with a platform secured upon the bed, more than three months absent, and whose return had been prepared ; and with this nondescript may be yet unavoidably protracted.

vehicle and two spans of eight oxen, accompaDuring my absence, a report has obtained cir- nied by my interpreter and Umpondombeeni, I culation among the natives here (whether true or set out from Berea at one o'clock, and bivouackfalse I have now no means of ascertaining,) that ed for the night on the right bank of the Pongata. several of the Zoolu chiefs, with Umthlella at Tuesday, 21st.-Crossed the Mansbitote and their head, during my last visit, resolved to take Eloffe ; and at half-past four descended a steep my life, alleging that they were suspicious of the hill to the Umcamās, whence we continued our influence I had obtained with Dingarn; but that route to a rocky stream beyond, stopping, on a the design was over-ruled by himself and one of hill on the other side, for the night, at a quarterhis father's widows, named Umkābäi. Should past six. A piece of loose canvas thrown over there be any real foundation for such a report, I the cart formed my tent; my bed, being spread have indeed great cause for gratitude to a merci between the wheels on the ground, which, from ful God, in having been preserved from the pend- having so often fared worse, I considered in some ing danger ; but I cannot for a moment entertain respects luxurious. the supposition, their conduct having been latterly

Wednesday, 22nd. -- Although knee-haltered, so friendly, and their desire to place this part of my horse contrived to stray away during the the country under my control having been so night; and after sending back to the Umcamas, openly and so cordially avowed.

and vainly searching in all directions, I was obliged to proceed without him, taking my uncasy

station at half-past ten upon one of the boxes on Sunday, 19th.

the cart, which had no sides. I had not been very

long in my new position, when, in passing a "Be ye reconciled to God.”—2 Corinth. v. 20. wooded defile, the wheel came in contact with a

stump, oversetting the vehicle, and tossing my inOh! the depth of sovereign grace, terpreter and myself into the bushes : providen

While in sin's dark ways we trod; tially neither of us was hurt. The difficulty now Jesus seeks our rebel race,

was to raise the vehicle ; two of the oxen were * Be ye reconciled to God!"

chained for this purpose to the upper wheel, but

all our attempts failed to induce them to pull in And can it be-the Lord from heaven the right direction ; so that it became necessary A suppliant at the sinner's feet?

to take every thing off, and even then it was not He, whose blood for us was given,

without some difficulty that, with our united Thus humbly deigning to entreat! strength, we were enabled to raise it to its former

position. We now found that one of the stanWell may angels long to know

dards had been broken by the fall; but this, after The mystery of such boundless love; a little contrivance, we were enabled to remedy. And wonder as they gaze below,

By this accident we were delayed more than an And mark how cold our bosoms prove. hour. The road soon after descends to the beach,

when we crossed the Umpombinyon. The matThat God had e'er a way devised

tingoolos were still ripe, and many of the trees To reconcile himself to those

retained their blossom. The pulp of this fruit is Who long his proffered grace despised, very like raspberry and cream, and partakes in A depth of love unmeasured shows. some slight degree of the flavor also. The tree

is bushy, with a glossy deep green leaf, and is coBut language fails—no words can tell, vered with sharp thorns. The star-shaped blos

Nor human powers the riches trace, som is of a delicate white, with a jessamine sent. Which in those wondrous accents dwell, -- It is never observed to grow beyond a mile from The fulness of redeeming grace.

the coast. There is also another wild fruit


abundant in this part; it is about the size of a gay and beautiful to the eye, but few of them have coffee-berry, with a rough flavor ; contains a any scent ; still, notwithstanding my frequent disstone, and grows near the sea upon a low shrub, appointments, I have found myself almost me. with thickest rounded leaves, Reached Mr. chanically plucking them as they occurred in the Cane's village at a quarter-past four, when we path. It was in consequence of one of these commenced repairing damages. This is not the disappointments that the following lines were spot where the canoe was built ; the village which written :then existed, about half a mile distant, having since been removed to this place. A bullock was

THE DESERT FLOWER. here procured and slaughtered, as provisions for the remainder of the journey across the uninha Why is that beauteous flower neglected, bited district.

So gaudily arrayed ? Thursday, 23rd.—Having deposited our supply Why is it cast aside, rejected, of meat in the skin of the animal suspended To wither, and to fade ? underneath the cart, we proceeded soon after nine. Observed frequent traces of wild boar. Delighted, when I took it up, The generality of the rivers being pent up at Its fragrance to enjoy ; their mouths by sandy bars, the waters from the I found no sweetness in its cupinterior frequently expand over a wide surface 'Twas but a gay decoy. within the bank, having all the appearance of small lakes. In these situations hippopotami were Why then so richly clad methoughtoccasionally seen; their noses only emerging So gorgeously attired ? from the water. They are likewise resorted to It did not spread its flower for nought, by flocks of wild ducks, which sometimes rose on Alone to be admired. our approach; while on the higher grounds the pow (a large species of bustard) was frequently Ah! no-an emblem here I trace

Of what the world so prize ; Friday, 241h.—The tracks of hippopotami, pan

A heart subdued—but not by grace ther, hyena, with many animals of the deer kind, Corruption in disguise. have been numerous, and were readily distinguished while occasionally passing along the Our boasted virtues oft expand beach ; but, in addition to these, both yesterday Like this fair desert flower; and to-day, we have traced for some distance the While we deny the bounteous hand foot-prints of a lion. On descending to the upper That keeps us every hour. ford of the Umzimcoolu, we observed several hippopotami sunning themselves upon a sand-bank, With Judas we may well inquire, in the middle of the stream. The scenery in this “ What need for all this waste ?" neighborhood is very beautiful; the banks are The graces we so much admire, prettily wooded and margined by high broken In selfishness are based. hills, commanding fine views of the river, for some distance winding below. We were nearly an Such is morality alone, hour in effecting the passage across; the water A painted scentless thing ; being in one part so high that the oxen were Attractive till by grace we're shown obliged to swim, and consequently every article

Whence real virtues spring. in the boxes was wet.

Had we been but half an hour later, the tide, The whole of this district bordering the coast which was still rising, would have prevented us must formerly have abounded with palmyra trees, from crossing ; indeed, before we left the river as the stumps, from five to twelve feet in height, was full, the tide flowing considerably above the are numerous ; but scarcely a single tree is now ford. Thought much of the gracious providence remaining the natives having destroyed them by which I was saved, when last here, from a either for fuel or for the pith of the branches; situation of great anxiety and distress. With the which, together with that of the strelitza, still Psalınist I have indeed cause to say, “ Bless the abundant, are said to have been frequently resortLord, O my soul ! and forget not all His benefits." ed to by way of subsistence, when traversing these

The contents of the boxes having been spread desolate regions. The palmetta, or low shrubby out and tolerably dried by the sun, we again pro- palmyra, grows every where in thick clumps ; ceeded, when I soon after had another most pro- usually about the stems of the decayed palmyra. vidential escape: a large bough, concealed by the Although the strelitza is commonly designated as high grass, had been borne down by the wheel, the wild banana, it differs considerably from it in and suddenly swung back with great force, knock- two remarkable particulars. The flags of the baing off my hat, and just grazing my head. Had nana-leaf are pendulous, whereas these open upit struck my forehead, from its size, it would pro-wards : the branches of the former spring from all bably have been fatal. At six we halted under sides of the trunk; these only from opposite sides, some bushes for the night.

forming a sort of fan as they spread upwards. Saturday, 25th.—Unable to proceed before ten, At noon we crossed the Umthlanga, the fourth the oxen having strayed to a considerable distance river from the Umziincoolu, from whence the in quest of grass, that immediately around us hav- country became open, with fewer trees. Some ing been recently burnt. Throughout this wil granite rocks, of a reddish color, occurred on one derness many of the wild plants are exceedingly point ve descended to the beach. The sereral

rivers which we are now passing are completely And should I e'er thy name deny, impeded in their course by a sandy bar, extending Conviction strike with—“ It is I." across their mouths ; which, during the summer And while a Peter's grief I féel, months, when they are full, is frequently burst by Thy pardon and thy love reveal. the volume of water, and a small passage opened to the sea. At half-past five we crossed the bar Rain nearly all the morning ; when it cleared of the Umbezăn. It was on the left bank of this up, held the English and Kafir services. river that the settlers took up their first station Monday, 27th.-Set out at eight. On reaching when they abandoned Port Natal, in 1833 ; they the beach, observed several rocks containing great remained here for about two months, and then quantities of marine shells-chiefly of the muscle returned to the right bank of the Umzimcoolu ; kind. On Saturday morning we met a party of where the greater part continued for eight or nine natives from the Umzimvoobo_their idea of Engmonths longer.

lish warfare was curious; being questioned reThis river winds prettily among wooded hills, specting the news from Kafir-land, they informed and is a fine feature from the road. Soon after us that the English army had driven the Amakosa six we halted. In these tedious journeys, which from the open country ; but that they had taken can only be undertaken at a foot-pace, no time can refuge in the woods, and the troops were only be spared for much preparation in cooking; the waiting until the weather was warmer to beat meat, to be eatable, requires hours. I therefore them out. To-day, we met another party from contented myself with ezinqua, (native bread) the same neighborhood; who, in reply to my quescomposed of Indian corn, baked in the wood-ashes, tion, where the Amakosa were, said " they were or gruel either of the same meal, or of lupoko.- stopping where they had always been :" so little There is, however, a very ready and ingenious reliance can be placed upon the reports of these way of cooking a chop, well known among the people. After crossing the bars of three rivers, natives, and often practised in these parts. Two the tide just washing over the crest of the last as or three sticks being pealed and pointed at both we passed, we proceeded along the beach, under ends, the meat, cut into small pieces, is strung a wall of singularly caverned rocks on the right. upon them as upon a skewer, they are then fixed We were but just in time; the spring-tides had in the ground, when a few dead boughs and raised the water in many parts to the very foot of branches kindled below soon do the needful. I the rocks, rendering the passage somewhat diffihave often envied my party this hearty meal, but cult. It is generally supposed that the survivors have never yet succeeded in my endeavor to re- from the wreck of the Grosvenor East Indiaman, duce the leathery substance to any digestible di- which was lost near this spot, found a temporary mensions.

shelter in these comfortless caverns ;-a supposiSunday, 26th.

tion which is not improbable, from the circum

stance of their being still designated by the natives " Lord, is it I?”—Matthew xxvi. 22.) as the “ White men's houses.” Notwithstanding While still in this cold world we dwell,

the wind and rain, which had continued for some By sin beset, by self allured;

time, we were unable to find any place of shelter

until after six-when we turned into a small openWhile oft our stubborn hearts rebel, 'Tis well to have our faith assured ;

ing from the beach, formed by a stream ; and after

much trouble succeeded in kindling a fire in front And oft repeat that carnest cry,

of a clump of low bushes, into which, with the aid Lord, tell me—tell me, is it I ?

of an axe, we had hewn out a sort of den for our How oft our actions seem to say,

reception. The shelter, however, was merely We're still our own—no price was paid :

imaginary; for, notwithstanding the canvas which Who is the Lord we should obey ?

was duly spread over the boughs, the dripping And he who bought us is betrayed !

from above was almost worse than the actual rain, Not Judas only—all may cry,

and contributed its quota to moisten our clothes Lord, tell me tell me, is it I?

and bedding-already sufficiently wet. While

the fire, which in other circumstances would have The more a Saviour's love we feel,

proved an essential comfort, became my greatest The deeper anguish we shall share; annoyance; the violence of the wind driving the And pray that grace may yet reveal, smoke full into my face, filling every crevice of our

The hidden sin that's lurking there : arbor, and almost depriving me of sight. All this E'en he on Jesus' breast could cry,

was happily disregarded by the natives—who, alLord, tell me tell me, is it I ?

most grilling themselves by the embers, slept

soundly through the night. In these respects The careless walk, the heartless prayer, they are perfect salamanders—not unfrequently

The cherished wish for earthly gain, arranging the burning faggots with their feet.As much the traitor's heart declare,

With the same unconcern they will dip their hands And prove that we the cross disdain : into the cooking-vessels, and deliberately feed As though we could our Lord deny,

themselves with the Indian corn while it is still And ask, in malice-is it I ?

boiling in the water; occasionally shifting the

grain from one hand to the other for a few seLord ! keep this treacherous heart of mine-conds, and then tossing it into their mouths.

Alas! too prone from Thee to stray; With this simple fare they are quite satisfied, and No strength have 1—but grant me thine, will undertake the longest journeys : indeed our Direct and lead me in the way:

own condition was but little better, the meat,

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