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Left the walking party and slept under a high tree unable to attend the service. About one hundred a few miles beyond the Umtongata.
people assembled. At the conclusion, Cokella reSaturday, 4ih.-Having started yesterday at marked, “ These are good words,” and thanked me day-light, we reached Mr. Plankenberg's at five. for them, particularly for those which enjoined While waiting for the baggage, I measured the obedience to the king, and all other superiors; girt of a large Kafir fig-tree (species of banian,) adding, that these words would make all people to growing near the ford of the Tugăla, which was be at peace, and set every thing right. He then found to be sixty feet. One of the limbs has inquired whether I though they should be able to grown through the heart of a neighboring tree, know them? I told them that I hoped soon to and receives support from another, in a very extra- come and live among them, and then they could ordinary manner. Crossed the river at four in the hear them often, and what they did not understand afternoon; and, on hearing that Zoolu was at the could be explained to them whenever they pleasBlack Clomanthleen, I rode in on reaching the ed. Some of the Nodūnga people were present. town to pay him a visit, thinking, as he was an in Monday, 6th.—Mambayendi having struck his fluential person, it would be a good opportunity to foot against a stump, was too lame to proceed ; a ascertain at once what was the actual feeling re- substitute was therefore appointed by Cokella, and specting the king's order. He received me in a having despatched the baggage-bearers by the very friendly manner, and promised to attend with direct road, I took a little circuit, in order again some of his people at the service I proposed to to visit Culoola and Nodūnga. As we ascended hold at the Injanduna on the following day. the hill towards the spot where the huts were Reaching that place at six, I received an equally building at Culoola, a number of women were obfriendly reception from Cokella. In the evening served bearing bundles of thatching grass upon himself and a large party of the soldiers assem- their heads, and as we approached they all salutbled in my hut. They sang and chattered alter- ed me with a song. Two of the huts only were nately, and seemed quite to enjoy themselves. in progress-one nearly completed, the other they Without directly alluding to the subject, enough promised to finish by the time required. About was dropped, in the course of the conversation, to noon we left Nodūnga, and soon after ascended convince me, not only that there had been great a very rocky mountain. After passing Embonis. exaggeration respecting Dingarn's order on the wani, the next village on this road, Cokochi, the part of the traders, but also that he had been head servant of the Injandūna regiment, and who greatly provoked by their conduct.
was appointed to escort me in the place of Mam
bayendi, met his aunt. The greeting was sinSunday, 5th.
gular—he gave her his hand, which she kissed " The fear of man bringeth a snare: but whoso nified salute was not returned on the part of
with much apparent affection ; but even this digputteth his trust in the Lord shall be safe.”—(Pro- Cokochi. On one or two occasions I have obverbs xxix. 25.)
served Dingarn receive a similar salutation from Firm is the Christian's trust, and sure a near relative, and naturally concluded that this
The anchor that sustains his soul ; was merely court etiquette ; but on questioning 'Mid toils and dangers still secure,
Cokochi on the subject, he assured me that it was He stands above the thunder's roll. invariable the custom in their country for the
women to salute their male relations, sometimes • Who shall harm you ?" he has said, on the hand, at others on the cheek, but the com
Strong to save—the mighty Lord ! pliment was never returned by them. From Em- My shield around you shall be spread bombusi, the path, which is carried about midway All needed strength I will accord.” along the side of the mountain, follows the course
of the Amatakoola, which winds in a valley on the In duty's path no danger lies
right. Crossing this rocky stream, and again asA Father's hand the way directs; cending, we reached Amahushani at half-past five, His presence every want supplies,
having previously overtaken the baggage-bearers And from the fiercest foe protects. at Gobeena. Huts were here provided at my re
quest, although strangers at this time were proWhat though the lion's den we share, hibited; one of the king's women having been Or flaming furnace round us rage,
sent here in an ill state of health, and still resi. Our heavenly Guide will meet us there, ding among them. Since leaving Nodūnga, the And all our anxious fears assuage. whole of this day's journey has been mountainous,
detached and round-topped, and generally composIn this blessed cause, who'er has lost, ed of a dark-colored sandstone and felspar. In A brighter treasure shall obtain,
the lower grounds, the aloes, now in full blossom, While those who pause to count the cost, have a very gay appearance, while even on the Must soon resign their fancied gain. tops of the hills, wherever the old grass has been
burnt, a beautiful yellow crocus, peculiar, I beDear Lord! wert thou to take my all, lieve, to this country is met with in great abunI but Thine own restore !
dance. Cheerful I yield to Thy just call
Tuesday, 7th.-Set out at a little before eight. Would I could give 'Thee more !
Observed many sweet-scented white crocuses.
The path more distinct, and the travelling less teZoolu sent to inform me, that, in consequenc of dious over the burnt districts. About noon, the death of one of his children, he should be commenced the descent into the valley of the
Umthlatoosi, the views in every part of which are were as usual to the right of the principal entrance, quite beautiful.
The path is steep and rocky, which has invariably been the case in all the large overlooking the windings of the river, which has towns I have visited. When last at the Injandū. a beautiful effect as seen through vistas skirted na, I inquired of Cokella the reason. “ It is in with trees and several species of aloes, the former that quarter,” he replied, “that the principal Inoften in blosson, and the latter bearing an elegant doonas always reside ; only those of inferior rank candelabria flower of every shade from deep red live on the left.” This evening, while musing to the palest orange. At a quarter past eleven, alone in my hut, I was accosted in tolerable Eng. passed a village called Unthlácho, the first habita- lish, by a native crouched near the door, with tions to be met with after leaving Amahushani.* * How do, captain?" Curious to ascertain where This place belongs to a chief named Sittai, whose he had acquired this smattering of English, the son was killed some time ago by order of Dingarn, first I had heard uttered by a native, I called him in consequence, it is said, of some intrigue against in, and found on inquiry that he had lately arrived the government; as an additional chastisement, from De la Goa Bay, with copper-wire from the the people both of this and the neighboring village Portuguese factory, where he had contrived to of Viengo were at the same time deprived of their pick up a few words of English and Portuguese; cattle. Unable to procure any thing at either, we his stock of the former, however, was almost excontinued our route through the valley, crossing hausted in the first salutation. It is in this manthe river four times, to Engukani, one of the king's ner, by an intermediate tribe of natives bordering villages, where we arrived at half-past twelve, and the settlement, that the Portuguese carry on their procured some sour milk for breakfast. Proceed- trade with the Zoolus. The native language ing again at three, we once more crossed the differs considerably from that spoken here ; but Umthlatoosi, and leaving this romantic valley by not so much as to render them altogether unintela steep ascent, continued our mountain route till ligible. near six, when we reached Amachingáni, a village Thursday, 9th.—This afternoon Dingarn sigsituated on a height, surrounded by groves of very nified his wish to see me, and for the first time high trees, called by the natives Umzani, and received me into his house : where I found himi which may be seen in all directions at a considera- reclining near the door upon a mat, supported by ble distance.
a head-stool and surrounded by about filty of his Wednesday, 8th.-Set out at a quarter-past eight, women, arranged in order around the sides of the the path conducting generally over an elevated hut. This house, as may be supposed by the open country, more level than any other part of number of its inmates, who only occupied the cirthe road. On approaching Unkūnginglove it be- cumference, is of considerable size, and was of comes more broken, and, on gaining the heights sufficient height to stand erect even with a hat on which overlook the town, the hills are covered in almost every part; but being only lighted from with dwarf mimosa and other shrubs, intermixed the low door, and the whole interior blackened by occasionally with euphorbi, which are generally smoke, it had a most dismal and dungeon-like apthe largest trees in this part of the country. The pearance on first entering. The eye at length betown, which had been rebuilt, appeared in the came accommodated to the light, or rather obscudistance like an immense assemblage of hay-stacks, rity, and soon discovered the features of many a the rays of the mid-day sun shining brightly upon black beauty, who at first was invisible ; the rethe newly-arranged thatch. The whole was not flection from the brass ornaments worn round their yet completed numbers of women, bearing bun- throats and right arms alone indicating their predies of grass upon their heads, were approaching sence. from all sides, while, as we advanced towards the The frame-work was supported by three parallel gate, we observed several hundreds of the ama- rows of posts, four in the middle and three on each booto (young soldiers) hastening forward in com- side. The fire-place, as is usual in all their houses, pact lines, bearing mimosa boughs for the fences. is situated about one-third of the whole diameter Having sent forward messengers to announce my from the door, to which it is exactly opposite, and arrival, we entered the town at one o'clock. exhibits, for a Zoolu device, a considerable degree
The two Indoonas, apparently occupied about of taste, the raised sides being waved at the end, some business, were seated in the midst of a large instead of the general pattern-an exact circle. assembly as I rode up, but they immediately came The floor is remarkably even, and from being con, forward, saying that the king was engaged in in- stantly rubbed and greased has quite a polished specting his cattle, but that he would see me be- appearance. Scarcely any thing that would come fore I went into a house. Passing through a under the denomination of furniture was to be large herd, I observed him seated upon his straight- seen. On one side of the fire-place stood a large backed (chair a native one made out of a single bowl of beer for present use, covered with an inblock) clothed in his old blue cloak, now threadbare verted basket, and beside this, on a thick square and greatly in need of a little soap and water. On mat, sometimes dignified by the name of a table, my approach, a bullock was pointed out as a pre- were arranged eight or ten ladles, merely the sent from the king to be slaughtered for my party. longitudinal section of a small calabash formed The interview lasted but a few minutes. Dingarn from the gourd. These, with a few bead-dresses expressed himself pleased at my return, recom- of various colors suspended from the sides, were mnending that I should now rest myself, and that the only relief afforded to this dusky abode. The he would see me again. The houses selected bag containing the presents was then opened by
Dingarn's desire, and its contents displayed, conThis district is uninhabited on account of the sisting of beads, some broadcloth, and a pair of number of lions which infest the neighborhood. boots, which I had brought merely on speculation,
being the largest that could be procured at Port Friday, 10th.—The scene here is a busy oneNatal. On opening the parcels and observing houses in all stages of progress—some in framethat the beads were spotted, he named them the men perched upon the tops of others thatchingingua (panther) beads, and, apparently much lines of women bearing bundles of grass upon their pleased, amused himself for some time by arrang- heads—the young men carrying boughs and fag. ing them in various ways. The operation of try- gots, and all moving in order to the tune of a song. ing-on the boots now commenced, which he en- A stranger would at once pronounce them a happy deavored to do in a recumbent posture, my inter- people, but their natural vivacity is too often preter and his servant tugging at the loops with quenched by the rule of despotism and the dread all their might. At length, finding this a hopeless of a violent death, to permit them long to enjoy endeavor, he took my advice and stood up, but such intervals of repose. The huts are more nuwould not divest his ankle of its bandage of white merous and better built than in the former town, beads, and once more thrust his foot into the un- and to my great relief are as yet untenanted by yielding boot. His women were in a titter the rats. The surrounding country is now a perfect whole time, and he himself could not refrain from blanket, every thing at this season of the year laughing at the extraordinary predicament in which being parched and dry. he was placed. Although there was ample room, had he but applied his own strength, this second MOON RISING AT UNKUNGINGLOVE. attempt was equally unsuccessful ; and at length disengaging his foot, he seemed glad to find him While yet I marked the glowing West, self again at liberty, requesting that my next pre Still reddened with the blush of day, sent might be shoes and not boots, as less trou The beauteous moon, with silver vest, blesome to "put in," as he expressed it. Desiring Arose to shed her milder ray. his women to amuse me by singing during his absence, he then suddenly made his exit. Although It was not night-the shadows fled they sang in parts and in good time, the high Beneath her full effulgent beam, pitch of so many female voices, unaccompanied That on each mountain crest was spread, by a bass, was not altogether pleasing, especially
Like the smooth face of some fair stream. as it was continued for some time. About an hour had passed in this manner, when a cessation Long on that glorious light I gazed, took place, and some of them came near and To brighter scenes in spirit borne, begged of me beads. During the whole time that Till every thought to Him was raised Dingarn had been present, they slid about on their Who of his brightness once was shorn. knees whenever they wished to move from one part of the house to another, but now observing Sweet emblem of a Saviour's grace ! them to walk as usual, I inquired the cause. In milder rays of Gospel light They said that they were not now afraid of the The image of our God we trace, king ; but that while he was present in the house Though once we trembled at the sight. they were never permitted to stand up, but always moved about in the manner I have seen. A ser
The still small voice of love proclaims vant was now sent to conduct me without the The fiery law's demands obeyed; Issigördlo, to a group of chiefs seated before a Where Justice frowned now mercy reigns large concourse of men standing around them in Each are in sweet accord displayed. a semi-circle. Tambooza, who was among them, desired me to seat myself near him, and I felt con Where grace has dawned 'twill ne'er decay; vinced that a conference was about to be held be. Though faint the light, and darkly seen, fore Dingarn on some business of importance. 'Twill kindle to that perfect day, Nothing, however, was more distant from his Where not a cloud shall intervene. thoughts; but, actuated merely by a sudden freak, he issued from his gateway the most extraordinary Whate'er to faith is yet concealed, figure that can well be imagined. During the That glorious day will then declare ; interval that his women were singing, he had And God himself will be revealed, caused his whole body, not excepting his face, to The only brightness needed there. be thickly daubed over with red and white clay in spots, and had but his figure corresponded with Saturday, 11th. This morning, long before the character, he might have passed at Astley's daylight, I was awoke by the vociferations of a for the genuine harlequin of the night. Thus man running through the town, and shouting as adorned, a dance and a song were the least I ex- he went in the most peremptory tone. Not long pected, but he contented himself with receiving after this hoarse salute, hundreds of female voices, the acclamations of “ Byăte,” “ Thou who art in pleasing concert, again broke the stillness of the for ever,” “The great black one,” &c. &c.; and night, by a song which became still louder and again retired as unaccountably from the sight of louder, until at length it as gradually passed away, his wondering subjects, who none of them could and all was again still. On inquiry, as soon as devise the import of this singular exhibition. All the people were about, I found that an order had I could collect from them was, that it was a new suddenly been issued by Dingarn, that every thing, that he had done it because he was the female should instantly leave the town for the purking and could do what he pleased. It is not, pose of procuring fencing bushes at Imbelli-belli. however, improbable that the sight of the spotted These unfortunate drudges were accordingly beads had put this strange crotchet into his head. obliged to rise at his bidding, and commence a
walk of ten miles at that unseasonable hour, not- | ing the mutual agreement which had been enterwithstanding which they sang, as they went, one ed into, some of the traders had not kept their faith, of the most melodious songs I have ever heard. but still continued to induce the natives to desert,
About ten o'clock, a large party of young sol secreting them, particularly young women, in their diers (560) arrived with bundles of bushes from wagons, and conveying them by stealth to Port the same place; they also entered the town with Natal. They said that they were perfectly con3 song, and, as they passed along in a continued vinced that I was not aware of this, but, nevertheline, seemed like a moving forest. It is perhaps less, they knew that it was still practised. Another as well that the building mania is now so domi- circumstance of some importance was alluded to; nant, as this is the season when they usually go the men in charge of the last two prisoners, had out to war. An entirely new ekanda, or military been unable to convey them beyond the Tugála. town, has recently sprung up, not more than three The information I had received at Port Natal remiles to the northward of this—the regiment call- garding them was, that the men, after placing ed Inzimmunzāna having been removed from a them in a hut, went in quest of tobacco; and, as spot equally distant in an opposite direction. might be expected, on their return no prisoners
By pacing half the circumference of the exte- were found to guard. The version current here rior fence and the diameter of the interior, I have is widely different. The men, they say, did not calculated the number of houses in the town to leave their charge, but several white men coming be about 1100, and the population about 5500.- to the spot, engaged them in conversation, and, In any other than a military place, the average while their attention was drawn off, rescued the of five individuals to each house, which I have girls, who have never been heard of since. Unforallowed, would be too many, as in those there are tunately they look to me alone for the due performfrequently three or four houses belonging to one ance of the treaty, and shrewdly remark that, notfamily ; but in the ekandas no person, with the withstanding letters were sent off at the time, exception of the Indoonas of the regiment, are some to traders then in the country, others to Port permitted to have more than one, which he occu- Natal, still “ the words” have not been obeyed. pies generally with two wives and as many ser- Most gladly would I divest myself of all responsivants. Umthlella and Tambooza, who have the blity in these matters, which are quite foreign to privilege of being married, have three houses, one the objects I have in view—but Dingarn has niore for themselves, and the other two for the accom- than once declared that he looks only to me, and modation of their wives; but, in the generality of will treat with no other; and—as the treaty is the out-places, at least two thirds of the houses popular with them, and the king has evinced a demay always be considered as occupied by the cided intention to abide by his word for the credit
This afternoon, a quarrel having arisen of my countrymen, and the permanency of the respecting the thatching of a house, one of the mission already established in their country, I feel disputants bit the finger of the other severely: the myself bound by a double duty, as far as in me lies, case was immediately referred to Umthlella, who to see it punctually fulfilled. They urged me much sentenced the assailant to the fine of a cow and a to enter upon this subject with them before the calf. In the afternoon, the women returned from king to-morrow; but I told them that it was not Imbelli-belli, bearing large bundles of bushes upon right to engage in such matters on God's day, their heads, and singing as they passed along the which should be employed in worshipping him. It following words, the same which they also sang was therefore agreed that the conference should in the night
be held on Monday.
Akoosiniki ingonyáma izeeswi Chorus
Haw-haw-haw-haw. Literally, “Why don't you give-lion-the nations."
"Jesus Christ, of whom the whole family in heaven and earth is named.”—(Ephesians iii. 15.)
Blessed Union! Christ the head!
One family in heaven and earth;
United by that mystic birth.
Let us then as brethren dwell,
In sweet communion here below;
Till joy within each bosom glow.
The king was so much occupied about the buildings, that he excused himself from attending to the business which I was desirous to bring before him to-day, but desired me, in the mean time, to communicate the particulars to the two Indoonas, who visited me in my hut for that purpose. They both disowned any knowledge of the king's order respecting the traders, first saying that it was on account of their not having previously obtained leave from him ; but in this I was enabled to confute them, having been at Congella at the very time when Thomas Halstead (one of them) came up and obtained Dingarn's sanction. John Snelder, the other trader in question, had evidently incensed them by bringing back two Zoolu lads as servants to the very town from whence he had taken then just before the treaty was arranged. Both were taken from him and killed, by an order from Dingarn. They then acknowledged, what I now believe to be the true reason, that, notwithstand
How sweet to fe) we're not our own,
But purchased by his dying love!
Of saints below and saints above.
Nothing can our union sever
Bound with links can ne'er decay;
To help each other by the way.
One faith, one hope, one glorious Head, scarcely a vestige will remain of the burning. No
message having been sent from the king, I sentBe love the banner o'er us spread,
my interpreter to remind him of my wish to leave While on this toilsome pilgrimage. on this day, and to request an audience pre
viously. See that bright angelic band
He soon sent to signify his readiness to receive Sisters, brothers, gone before ;
me; and, accompanied by the two Indoonas, we Soon beside them we shall stand,
proceeded to the Issigõrdlo, where he appeared. Redeeming mercy to adore.
reclining on a head-stool in the door of his house,
On being requested to commence the conversaThe victor's palm through grace they bear,— tion, I said that I was desirous to know on what Of witnesses a glorious cloud;
account two of the traders (mentioning their In all our triumphs still they share,
names) had been sent out of the country; that I And strike their golden harps aloud. had already heard their own statement, but, as
there were always two sides to every case, it was Though trials we may yet endure,
necessary to know what charges he brought against Like faith and patience let us prove; them before we could decide what ought to be done The promises are still as sure,
in the matter. “Now," he said, “ it is my turn to And grace is free—and God is love ! speak”—and related the whole circumstance ;
from which it would appear that they had given Monday, 13th.—Last night, about seven o'clock, him just cause for offence. The allegations were, the people were suddenly called, and my interpreter that John Snelder, as before stated, had returned came to inform me that the town was on fire. As with some young men, whom he had induced to large bundles of thatching-grass were collected in accompany him to Port Natal, about the time that different parts, adding considerably to the inflam- the treaty was arranged; and that Thomas Halmable materials of the whole place, serious conse- sted had falsely used his name, by informing the quences were at first apprehended. Providentially, Indoona of the town where he was trading, that it the fire broke out on the lee-side, and the wind was the king's order that he should dispose of his drove it across the outer fence. The blaze at first cattle to him. He likewise complained of the gewas terrific; but by the immediate removal of neral conduct of the traders in inducing his people houses for some distance round the ignited quarter, to desert, and conveying them out of his country the communication was soon cut off. The rapi- in their wagons. On this latter point I questiondity with which this was effected was extraordi- ed him closely, in order to ascertain whether, since nary--as many men as could stand round a house, the negotiation of the treaty, so serious a charge by main strength pulled it up, as it were, by the could be substantiated. roots, and in a few minutes the materials were con No positive proof was adduced—but so little veyed to a distance. There was no confusion, the reliance were they disposed to place upon the proIndoonas presiding during the whole time, and is- fessions of any of the traders, that Dingarn plainly suing the necessary orders.
avowed he could not depend upon them, since they As soon as a sufficient space was cleared round had so often deceived him before. On this, I as. the flaming houses, a close cordon of men was sured him that the white people at Port Natal formed, who kept their station, with stakes in their were agreed to observe the terms of the treaty; hands, until all apprehension of danger was over. and that he might rely upon it no deserters had Dingarn did not make his appearance, although been received there since that period. That I did the fire took place not far from the Issigördlo, but not know they were there, he said, he was quite messengers were frequently passing to acquaint certain, or they would have been sent back; but him how matters were going on. I endeavored he had often spoken on the subject to them, withto persuade them to bring water, but they said it out effect. The word, I replied, which had passwas too far. The only means employed to ex- ed between us should not fall to the ground; if tinguish the fire was by occasionally throwing deserters were found at Port Natal, he might rely dust upon the flaming thatch, which not being upon their being sent back. Dingarn then said, heaped in sufficient quantities, had but little effect. that he considered me as the chief of the white The remarkable glare which was cast upon the people there, and that he should look to me to wild features and gestures of the natives compos- keep things right. I told him that as far as I was ing this immense concurse, all actively employed able this should be done, but that beyond persuain the midst of flaming houses and smoking rub- sion I had no power. His reply was, “ You must bish, would have been a fine scene for a painter. have power. I give you all the country called
As usual, it is not exactly known how it com- Issibūbalungu*—you must be the chief over all mi ced, though a tolerably shrewd guess may be the people there. I said, that I did not wish for made, since it is stated that a fire was left unat-power; that my object in coming into his country tended in the very house first ignited, during the was only to be a teacher; but, since he had said time the people of that section were called to eat that he should look to me alone to regulate all matmeat, which they always partake of in a group in ters relating to the white people, I would accept the open air. Although thirty-two houses were it, in order that I might take these words to consumed, providentially not a single person was the great chief, at Graham's Town (he considers hurt on the occasion. By noon this day the burnt that as the seat of government ;) and if I obtain fence had been replaced, and new houses were his sanction also, I should then be enabled to preerecting on the site of those which had been so recently reduced to ashes_before the sun sets, * Liter ally, the white people's ford.