Left the walking party and slept under a high tree | unable to attend the service. About one hundred a few miles beyond the Umtongata. people assembled. At the conclusion, Cokella remarked, "These are good words," and thanked me for them, particularly for those which enjoined obedience to the king, and all other superiors; adding, that these words would make all people to be at peace, and set every thing right. He then inquired whether I though they should be able to know them? I told them that I hoped soon to come and live among them, and then they could hear them often, and what they did not understand could be explained to them whenever they pleased. Some of the Nodunga people were present. Saturday, 4th.-Having started yesterday at day-light, we reached Mr. Plankenberg's at five. While waiting for the baggage, I measured the girt of a large Kafir fig-tree (species of banian,) growing near the ford of the Tugala, which was found to be sixty feet. One of the limbs has grown through the heart of a neighboring tree, and receives support from another, in a very extraordinary manner. Crossed the river at four in the afternoon; and, on hearing that Zoolu was at the Black Clomanthleen, I rode in on reaching the town to pay him a visit, thinking, as he was an influential person, it would be a good opportunity to ascertain at once what was the actual feeling respecting the king's order. He received me in a very friendly manner, and promised to attend with some of his people at the service I proposed to hold at the Injandūna on the following day. Reaching that place at six, I received an equally friendly reception from Cokella. In the evening himself and a large party of the soldiers assembled in my hut. They sang and chattered alter-ed me with a song. Two of the huts only were nately, and seemed quite to enjoy themselves. Without directly alluding to the subject, enough was dropped, in the course of the conversation, to convince me, not only that there had been great exaggeration respecting Dingarn's order on the part of the traders, but also that he had been greatly provoked by their conduct. Sunday, 5th. "The fear of man bringeth a snare: but whoso putteth his trust in the Lord shall be safe."-(Proverbs xxix. 25.) Firm is the Christian's trust, and sure Who shall harm you?" he has said, In duty's path no danger lies A Father's hand the way directs; His presence every want supplies, And from the fiercest foe protects. What though the lion's den we share, Or flaming furnace round us rage, Our heavenly Guide will meet us there, And all our anxious fears assuage. In this blessed cause, who'er has lost, Dear Lord! wert thou to take my all, Would I could give Thee more! Zoolu sent to inform me, that, in consequenc of the death of one of his children, he should be Monday, 6th.-Mambayendi having struck his foot against a stump, was too lame to proceed; a substitute was therefore appointed by Cokella, and having despatched the baggage-bearers by the direct road, I took a little circuit, in order again to visit Culoola and Nodunga. As we ascended the hill towards the spot where the huts were building at Culoola, a number of women were observed bearing bundles of thatching grass upon their heads, and as we approached they all salut in progress—one nearly completed, the other they promised to finish by the time required. About noon we left Nodünga, and soon after ascended a very rocky mountain. After passing Emboniswani, the next village on this road, Cokochi, the head servant of the Injandūna regiment, and who was appointed to escort me in the place of Mambayendi, met his aunt. The greeting was singular-he gave her his hand, which she kissed nified salute was not returned on the part of with much apparent affection; but even this digCokochi. On one or two occasions I have observed Dingarn receive a similar salutation from a near relative, and naturally concluded that this was merely court etiquette; but on questioning Cokochi on the subject, he assured me that it was invariable the custom in their country for the women to salute their male relations, sometimes on the hand, at others on the cheek, but the compliment was never returned by them. From Embombusi, the path, which is carried about midway along the side of the mountain, follows the course of the Amatakoola, which winds in a valley on the right. Crossing this rocky stream, and again ascending, we reached Amahushani at half-past five, having previously overtaken the baggage-bearers at Gobeena. Huts were here provided at my request, although strangers at this time were prohibited; one of the king's women having been sent here in an ill state of health, and still residing among them. Since leaving Nodũnga, the whole of this day's journey has been mountainous, detached and round-topped, and generally composed of a dark-colored sandstone and felspar. In the lower grounds, the aloes, now in full blossom, have a very gay appearance, while even on the tops of the hills, wherever the old grass has been burnt, a beautiful yellow crocus, peculiar, I believe, to this country is met with in great abundance. Tuesday, 7th.-Set out at a little before eight. Observed many sweet-scented white crocuses. The path more distinct, and the travelling less tedious over the burnt districts. About noon, commenced the descent into the valley of the Umthlatoosi, the views in every part of which are quite beautiful. The path is steep and rocky, overlooking the windings of the river, which has a beautiful effect as seen through vistas skirted with trees and several species of aloes, the former often in blosson, and the latter bearing an elegant candelabria flower of every shade from deep red to the palest orange. At a quarter-past eleven, passed a village called Unthlacho, the first habitations to be met with after leaving Amahushani.* This place belongs to a chief named Sittai, whose son was killed some time ago by order of Dingarn, in consequence, it is said, of some intrigue against the government; as an additional chastisement, the people both of this and the neighboring village of Uiengo were at the same time deprived of their cattle. Unable to procure any thing at either, we continued our route through the valley, crossing the river four times, to Engukani, one of the king's villages, where we arrived at half-past twelve, and procured some sour milk for breakfast. Proceeding again at three, we once more crossed the Umthlatoosi, and leaving this romantic valley by a steep ascent, continued our mountain route till near six, when we reached Amachingani, a village situated on a height, surrounded by groves of very high trees, called by the natives Umzani, and which may be seen in all directions at a considerable distance. Wednesday, 8th.-Set out at a quarter-past eight, the path conducting generally over an elevated open country, more level than any other part of the road. On approaching Unkanginglove it becomes more broken, and, on gaining the heights which overlook the town, the hills are covered with dwarf mimosa and other shrubs, intermixed occasionally with euphorbi, which are generally the largest trees in this part of the country. The town, which had been rebuilt, appeared in the distance like an immense assemblage of hay-stacks, the rays of the mid-day sun shining brightly upon the newly-arranged thatch. The whole was not yet completed-numbers of women, bearing bundles of grass upon their heads, were approaching from all sides, while, as we advanced towards the gate, we observed several hundreds of the amabooto (young soldiers) hastening forward in compact lines, bearing mimosa boughs for the fences. Having sent forward messengers to announce my arrival, we entered the town at one o'clock. were as usual to the right of the principal entrance, which has invariably been the case in all the large towns I have visited. When last at the Injanduna, I inquired of Cokella the reason. "It is in that quarter," he replied, "that the principal Indoonas always reside; only those of inferior rank live on the left." This evening, while musing alone in my hut, I was accosted in tolerable English, by a native crouched near the door, with “How do, captain?" Curious to ascertain where he had acquired this smattering of English, the first I had heard uttered by a native, I called him in, and found on inquiry that he had lately arrived from De la Goa Bay, with copper-wire from the Portuguese factory, where he had contrived to pick up a few words of English and Portuguese; his stock of the former, however, was almost exhausted in the first salutation. It is in this manner, by an intermediate tribe of natives bordering the settlement, that the Portuguese carry on their trade with the Zoolus. The native language differs considerably from that spoken here; but not so much as to render them altogether unintelligible. Thursday, 9th.-This afternoon Dingarn signified his wish to see me, and for the first time received me into his house: where I found hinı reclining near the door upon a mat, supported by a head-stool and surrounded by about fifty of his women, arranged in order around the sides of the hut. This house, as may be supposed by the number of its inmates, who only occupied the circumference, is of considerable size, and was of sufficient height to stand erect even with a hat on in almost every part; but being only lighted from the low door, and the whole interior blackened by smoke, it had a most dismal and dungeon-like appearance on first entering. The eye at length became accommodated to the light, or rather obscu rity, and soon discovered the features of many a black beauty, who at first was invisible; the reflection from the brass ornaments worn round their throats and right arms alone indicating their presence. The frame-work was supported by three parallel rows of posts, four in the middle and three on each side. The fire-place, as is usual in all their houses, is situated about one-third of the whole diameter from the door, to which it is exactly opposite, and exhibits, for a Zoolu device, a considerable degree The two Indoonas, apparently occupied about of taste, the raised sides being waved at the end, some business, were seated in the midst of a large instead of the general pattern-an exact circle. assembly as I rode up, but they immediately came The floor is remarkably even, and from being conforward, saying that the king was engaged in in- stantly rubbed and greased has quite a polished specting his cattle, but that he would see me be- appearance. Scarcely any thing that would come fore I went into a house. Passing through a under the denomination of furniture was to be large herd, I observed him seated upon his straight-seen. On one side of the fire-place stood a large backed (chair a native one made out of a single bowl of beer for present use, covered with an inblock) clothed in his old blue cloak, now threadbare verted basket, and beside this, on a thick square and greatly in need of a little soap and water. On my approach, a bullock was pointed out as a present from the king to be slaughtered for my party. The interview lasted but a few minutes. Dingarn expressed himself pleased at my return, recommending that I should now rest myself, and that he would see me again. The houses selected This district is uninhabited on account of the number of lions which infest the neighborhood. mat, sometimes dignified by the name of a table, were arranged eight or ten ladles, merely the longitudinal section of a small calabash formed from the gourd. These, with a few bead-dresses of various colors suspended from the sides, were the only relief afforded to this dusky abode. The bag containing the presents was then opened by Dingarn's desire, and its contents displayed, consisting of beads, some broadcloth, and a pair of boots, which I had brought merely on speculation, being the largest that could be procured at Port Natal. On opening the parcels and observing that the beads were spotted, he named them the ingua (panther) beads, and, apparently much pleased, amused himself for some time by arranging them in various ways. The operation of trying-on the boots now commenced, which he endeavored to do in a recumbent posture, my interpreter and his servant tugging at the loops with all their might. At length, finding this a hopeless endeavor, he took my advice and stood up, but would not divest his ankle of its bandage of white beads, and once more thrust his foot into the unyielding boot. His women were in a titter the whole time, and he himself could not refrain from laughing at the extraordinary predicament in which he was placed. Although there was ample room, had he but applied his own strength, this second attempt was equally unsuccessful; and at length disengaging his foot, he seemed glad to find himself again at liberty, requesting that my next present might be shoes and not boots, as less troublesome to "put in," as he expressed it. Desiring his women to amuse me by singing during his absence, he then suddenly made his exit. Although they sang in parts and in good time, the high pitch of so many female voices, unaccompanied by a bass, was not altogether pleasing, especially as it was continued for some time. About an hour had passed in this manner, when a cessation took place, and some of them came near and begged of me beads. During the whole time that Dingarn had been present, they slid about on their knees whenever they wished to move from one part of the house to another, but now observing them to walk as usual, I inquired the cause.— They said that they were not now afraid of the king; but that while he was present in the house they were never permitted to stand up, but always moved about in the manner I have seen. A servant was now sent to conduct me without the Issigōrdlo, to a group of chiefs seated before a large concourse of men standing around them in a semi-circle. Tambooza, who was among them, desired me to seat myself near him, and I felt convinced that a conference was about to be held before Dingarn on some business of importance.Nothing, however, was more distant from his thoughts; but, actuated merely by a sudden freak, he issued from his gateway the most extraordinary figure that can well be imagined. During the interval that his women were singing, he had caused his whole body, not excepting his face, to be thickly daubed over with red and white clay in spots, and had but his figure corresponded with the character, he might have passed at Astley's for the genuine harlequin of the night. Thus adorned, a dance and a song were the least I expected, but he contented himself with receiving the acclamations of "Byǎte," "Thou who art for ever," "The great black one," &c. &c.; and again retired as unaccountably from the sight of his wondering subjects, who none of them could devise the import of this singular exhibition. All I could collect from them was, that it was a new thing, that he had done it because he was the king and could do what he pleased. It is not, however, improbable that the sight of the spotted beads had put this strange crotchet into his head. Friday, 10th.-The scene here is a busy one— houses in all stages of progress-some in framemen perched upon the tops of others thatchinglines of women bearing bundles of grass upon their heads-the young men carrying boughs and faggots, and all moving in order to the tune of a song. A stranger would at once pronounce them a happy people, but their natural vivacity is too often quenched by the rule of despotism and the dread of a violent death, to permit them long to enjoy such intervals of repose. The huts are more numerous and better built than in the former town, and to my great relief are as yet untenanted by rats. The surrounding country is now a perfect blanket, every thing at this season of the year being parched and dry. MOON RISING AT UNKUNGINGLOVE. While yet I marked the glowing West, Still reddened with the blush of day, It was not night-the shadows fled Long on that glorious light I gazed, To brighter scenes in spirit borne, Till every thought to Him was raised Who of his brightness once was shorn. Sweet emblem of a Saviour's grace! Though once we trembled at the sight. Where grace has dawned 'twill ne'er decay; Though faint the light, and darkly seen, "Twill kindle to that perfect day, Where not a cloud shall intervene. Whate'er to faith is yet concealed, That glorious day will then declare; And God himself will be revealed, The only brightness needed there. Saturday, 11th.-This morning, long before daylight, I was awoke by the vociferations of a man running through the town, and shouting as he went in the most peremptory tone. Not long after this hoarse salute, hundreds of female voices, in pleasing concert, again broke the stillness of the night, by a song which became still louder and louder, until at length it as gradually passed away, and all was again still. On inquiry, as soon as the people were about, I found that an order had suddenly been issued by Dingarn, that every female should instantly leave the town for the purpose of procuring fencing bushes at Imbelli-belli. These unfortunate drudges were accordingly obliged to rise at his bidding, and commence a walk of ten miles at that unseasonable hour, notwithstanding which they sang, as they went, one of the most melodious songs I have ever heard. About ten o'clock, a large party of young soldiers (560) arrived with bundles of bushes from the same place; they also entered the town with a song, and, as they passed along in a continued line, seemed like a moving forest. It is perhaps as well that the building mania is now so dominant, as this is the season when they usually go out to war. An entirely new ekanda, or military town, has recently sprung up, not more than three miles to the northward of this-the regiment called Inzimmunzana having been removed from a spot equally distant in an opposite direction. |ing the mutual agreement which had been entered into, some of the traders had not kept their faith, but still continued to induce the natives to desert, secreting them, particularly young women, in their wagons, and conveying them by stealth to Port Natal. They said that they were perfectly convinced that I was not aware of this, but, nevertheless, they knew that it was still practised. Another circumstance of some importance was alluded to; the men in charge of the last two prisoners, had been unable to convey them beyond the Tugăla. The information I had received at Port Natal regarding them was, that the men, after placing them in a hut, went in quest of tobacco; and, as might be expected, on their return no prisoners By pacing half the circumference of the exte- were found to guard. The version current here rior fence and the diameter of the interior, I have is widely different. The men, they say, did not calculated the number of houses in the town to leave their charge, but several white men coming be about 1100, and the population about 5500.- to the spot, engaged them in conversation, and, In any other than a military place, the average while their attention was drawn off, rescued the of five individuals to each house, which I have girls, who have never been heard of since. Unforallowed, would be too many, as in those there are tunately they look to me alone for the due performfrequently three or four houses belonging to one ance of the treaty, and shrewdly remark that, notfamily; but in the ekandas no person, with the withstanding letters were sent off at the time, exception of the Indoonas of the regiment, are some to traders then in the country, others to Port permitted to have more than one, which he occu-Natal, still "the words" have not been obeyed. pies generally with two wives and as many servants. Umthlella and Tambooza, who have the privilege of being married, have three houses, one for themselves, and the other two for the accommodation of their wives; but, in the generality of the out-places, at least two thirds of the houses may always be considered as occupied by the women. This afternoon, a quarrel having arisen respecting the thatching of a house, one of the disputants bit the finger of the other severely: the case was immediately referred to Umthlella, who sentenced the assailant to the fine of a cow and a calf. In the afternoon, the women returned from Imbelli-belli, bearing large bundles of bushes upon their heads, and singing as they passed along the following words, the same which they also sang in the night Akoosiniki ingonyama izeeswi The king was so much occupied about the buildings, that he excused himself from attending to the business which I was desirous to bring before him to-day, but desired me, in the mean time, to communicate the particulars to the two Indoonas, who visited me in my hut for that purpose. They both disowned any knowledge of the king's order respecting the traders, first saying that it was on account of their not having previously obtained leave from him; but in this I was enabled to confute them, having been at Congella at the very time when Thomas Halstead (one of them) came up and obtained Dingarn's sanction. John Snelder, the other trader in question, had evidently incensed them by bringing back two Zoolu lads as servants to the very town from whence he had taken them just before the treaty was arranged. Both were taken from him and killed, by an order from Dingarn. They then acknowledged, what I now velieve to be the true reason, that, notwithstand Most gladly would I divest myself of all responsibility in these matters, which are quite foreign to the objects I have in view-but Dingarn has more than once declared that he looks only to me, and will treat with no other; and-as the treaty is popular with them, and the king has evinced a decided intention to abide by his word-for the credit of my countrymen, and the permanency of the mission already established in their country, I feel myself bound by a double duty, as far as in me lies, to see it punctually fulfilled. They urged me much to enter upon this subject with them before the king to-morrow; but I told them that it was not right to engage in such matters on God's day, which should be employed in worshipping him. It was therefore agreed that the conference should be held on Monday. Sunday, 12th. "Jesus Christ, of whom the whole family in heaven and earth is named."-(Ephesians iii. 15.) Blessed Union! Christ the head! Let us then as brethren dwell, In sweet communion here below; Till joy within each bosom glow, But purchased by his dying love! Of saints below and saints above. Nothing can our union sever- One faith, one hope, one glorious Head, See that bright angelic band Sisters, brothers, gone before; Soon beside them we shall stand, Redeeming mercy to adore. scarcely a vestige will remain of the burning. No message having been sent from the king, I sent my interpreter to remind him of my wish to leave on this day, and to request an audience previously. He soon sent to signify his readiness to receive me; and, accompanied by the two Indoonas, we proceeded to the Issigōrdlo, where he appeared. reclining on a head-stool in the door of his house, On being requested to commence the conversa The victor's palm through grace they bear,- tion, I said that I was desirous to know on what And strike their golden harps aloud. Though trials we may yet endure, And grace is free-and God is love! account two of the traders (mentioning their names) had been sent out of the country; that I had already heard their own statement, but, as there were always two sides to every case, it was necessary to know what charges he brought against them before we could decide what ought to be done in the matter. "Now," he said, "it is my turn to speak"-and related the whole circumstance; from which it would appear that they had given Monday, 13th.-Last night, about seven o'clock, him just cause for offence. The allegations were. the people were suddenly called, and my interpreter that John Snelder, as before stated, had returned came to inform me that the town was on fire. As with some young men, whom he had induced to large bundles of thatching-grass were collected in accompany him to Port Natal, about the time that different parts, adding considerably to the inflam- the treaty was arranged; and that Thomas Halmable materials of the whole place, serious conse-sted had falsely used his name, by informing the quences were at first apprehended. Providentially, Indoona of the town where he was trading, that it the fire broke out on the lee-side, and the wind was the king's order that he should dispose of his drove it across the outer fence. The blaze at first cattle to him. He likewise complained of the gewas terrific; but by the immediate removal of neral conduct of the traders in inducing his people houses for some distance round the ignited quarter, to desert, and conveying them out of his country the communication was soon cut off. The rapi- in their wagons. On this latter point I questiondity with which this was effected was extraordi- ed him closely, in order to ascertain whether, since nary--as many men as could stand round a house, the negotiation of the treaty, so serious a charge by main strength pulled it up, as it were, by the could be substantiated. roots, and in a few minutes the materials were con- No positive proof was adduced-but so little veyed to a distance. There was no confusion, the reliance were they disposed to place upon the proIndoonas presiding during the whole time, and is-fessions of any of the traders, that Dingarn plainly suing the necessary orders. avowed he could not depend upon them, since they As soon as a sufficient space was cleared round had so often deceived him before. On this, I asthe flaming houses, a close cordon of men was sured him that the white people at Port Natal formed, who kept their station, with stakes in their were agreed to observe the terms of the treaty: hands, until all apprehension of danger was over. and that he might rely upon it no deserters had Dingarn did not make his appearance, although been received there since that period. That I did the fire took place not far from the Issigōrdlo, but not know they were there, he said, he was quite messengers were frequently passing to acquaint certain, or they would have been sent back; but him how matters were going on. I endeavored he had often spoken on the subject to them, withto persuade them to bring water, but they said it out effect. The word, I replied, which had passwas too far. The only means employed to ex-ed between us should not fall to the ground; if tinguish the fire was by occasionally throwing dust upon the flaming thatch, which not being heaped in sufficient quantities, had but little effect. The remarkable glare which was cast upon the wild features and gestures of the natives composing this immense concurse, all actively employed in the midst of flaming houses and smoking rubbish, would have been a fine scene for a painter. deserters were found at Port Natal, he might rely upon their being sent back. Dingarn then said, that he considered me as the chief of the white people there, and that he should look to me to keep things right. I told him that as far as I was able this should be done, but that beyond persuasion I had no power. His reply was, "You must have power. I give you all the country called As usual, it is not exactly known how it com- Issibübülüngu*—you must be the chief over all menced, though a tolerably shrewd guess may be the people there." I said, that I did not wish for made, since it is stated that a fire was left unat-power; that my object in coming into his country tended in the very house first ignited, during the time the people of that section were called to eat meat, which they always partake of in a group in the open air. Although thirty-two houses were consumed, providentially not a single person was hurt on the occasion. By noon this day the burnt fence had been replaced, and new houses were erecting on the site of those which had been so recently reduced to ashes-before the sun sets, was only to be a teacher; but, since he had said that he should look to me alone to regulate all matters relating to the white people, I would accept it, in order that I might take these words to the great chief, at Graham's Town (he considers that as the seat of government ;) and if I obtain his sanction also, I should then be enabled to pre *Liter ally, the white people's ford. |