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select some milch cattle for me. I told him that I did not desire presents. He replied, that he gave them to me in order to show that his heart was towards me; on which I assured him that my heart was also towards him, and that he would always find me desirous to do him service. I then took his measure with a piece of tape for a pair of boots, which on my last visit he had requested me to procure for him. In order that I might obtain an interview with the prisoners before leaving, I had purposely kept the key of the hand-cuffs, and now informed Dingarn that I must take them back, as they might be required for other deserters, and, moreover, were preferable to their method of securing with ropes, which often caused great pain in the arms. He laughed at this refinement of humanity, and said that I might take them off. The unfortunate prisoners were brought out in front of their hut for the purpose, and numbers of people soon collected from curiosity to see them. They were evidently in a state of alarm, supposing that they could only be loosed for the purpose of immediate execution, but the object being explained, they became calm, and soon after returned to their place of confinement. Calling Mambayendi into my hut, I desired him to tell me candidly what were the king's intentions respecting them, saying, that as I had brought them here, it was but just that I should be informed of their probable fate. He said that I already knew the king's intentions-that he had given orders that no person was to supply them with food, which when he thought proper he should send. It appears to me that the beer sent yesterday was merely on account of my remonstrance, and that on our departure they will be left to starve. On leaving the town I saw them again the last time, recommending them to think much of what had been said to them, and to pray to God through Jesus Christ, as He was able to save their souls, and do them good in another world they all looked most piteously, thanked me, and wished me a pleasant journey. So painful a duty I hope never again to be called to perform; and sincerely do I pray that their hearts may be opened by Divine grace, to seek the things that belong to their peace before they are called into eternity.

Set out on our return, accompanied by Mambayendi and two herdsmen, driving the oxen before us, at half-past eleven. Our appearance in any other country would have been somewhat ludicrous. But two legs were now remaining of the cow which had been killed yesterday afternoon, and these precious relics were willingly carried by some of the baggage-bearers-not a scrap would they leave behind; rather than relinquish a particle, one of them actually strung a large piece of raw meat round the back of his neck, leaving it to hang down between his shoulders. So many beasts have been slaughtered for me during these journeys, that my servants have been enabled to obtain their favorite ornament, a part of the gall-bladder, stuffed with fat, and formed into a large ring, with which they encircle the arm. Sometimes a ring of fat is worn round the head like a bandage, just above the eyebrows; in fact, fat of all kinds is their delight-they will eat it au naturel, and consider that individual as

wealthy who can afford to appropriate a sufficient quantity to decorate his person besides. One of the men went off with the tail of the cow dangling from his arm-whether by the way of ornament or not I did not inquire. Observing how soon the meat had been demolished, I inquired of the people how many of them an ox would suffice. They said that five men would finish the whole beast in the course of a day and a half; and this I fully believe, from the specimen they have already given of their carnivorous powers. On crossing a mountain, after passing Ebonquani (the first village on leaving Congella,) we passed through an immense flight of locusts, more numerous than any I have yet seen either in this country or in Kafir-land; they were feeding upon the grass until we disturbed them, and then rose in millions; many flew into my face, and I caught several in my hand as I rode along. At a quarter to six we reached Hengi, and remained for the night. My former hut was again prepared for me.

Sunday, 31st.

"Thou wilt keep him in perfect peace whose mind is stayed on Thee, because he trusteth in Thee."-(Isaiah xxvi. 3.)

How pure the peace that grace bestows!

The still small voice of love how sweet!
How calm the soul that can repose
Its deepest care at Jesus' feet!

Though like the Prophet 'leaguered round, Though earth and hell their power should boast,

Faith looks beyond this narrow bound,

And sees afar a mightier host!

There's not a pang that flesh can feel,

Nor deeper grief our bssoms know, But sovereign grace alike can heal, And pour the balm to sooth our wo!

It cheers the pining captive's cell

He marks his chain-and looks above! His soul unfettered loves to dwell

On those bright realms of joy and love!

It lights the languid eye in death,
Bids Jordan's billows stand on high;
It sanctifies our latest breath,

And makes it rapture e'en to die!

How rich the promise-"Come and buy," With nought that ye can e'er possess ; The riches that are stored on high

Are free to all their want confess!

Dear Lord! thy purchased blessings shower
My helpless soul still hangs on Thee;
In weakness now make known thy power,
Atoning blood alone my plea.

May heavenly love my bosom swell,

May every selfish feeling die;

So shall my soul be meet to dwell
With Thee in realms of bliss on high.

Monday, June 1st.-We were so near to the confused idea of the incarnation of our blessed Clomanthleen district, that I pushed on this morn- | Lord, and of the entrance of sin into the world, ing, and in an hour and a half reached Nodunga, Satan employing the body of a reptile to practise the first village after crossing the Amatakoola, his first deceit upon mankind. What an awful where we arrived at nine o'clock. My object in condition for an immortal being! Man, when making this journey was in order to have an op- once doparted from his God, goes out, like Nebuportunity of speaking to the people. Having chadnezzar in his banishment, debased in his reasent round to some other smaller places in the soning powers, and scarcely elevated above the neighborhood, about one hundred people assem- beasts which perish. O that this benighted peobled before my hut, when I addressed them about ple may, like the stump which he saw in his night an hour. dream, put forth branches, and bud, and bear fruit, and flourish; and thus matured and nourished by the dews of heavenly grace, become a blessing in the earth, a shelter and a protection to all the surrounding nations! Breathe, Lord upon these dry bones, and they shall live!

There is much encouragement in teaching these people they have no caste to break through -no idols to throw down-they readily acknowledge their ignorance, and seem desirous for instruction. I commenced by inquiring who among them could tell me by whom the sun, the moon, the mountains, and the rivers were made? All agreed that they were created by some power above. I asked what they called that power Pointing upwards, one of them said it was the Incosi Pezulu" (Great Chief above.) Did they know any thing of this Great Chief! "No," they replied; "now we are come to hear about Him-it is you who must tell us." On hearing these simple expressions of desire to be instructed, the reply of Cornelius to Peter (Acts x. 33,) came forcibly to my mind-"Now therefore we are all here present before God to hear all things that are commanded thee of God." May a like blessing attend the ministry which I trust they will soon have among them.

We seem to have arrived here at a period when the traditionary knowledge of a Supreme Being is rapidly passing into oblivion. The following brief account is all that I have ever been able to collect on this subject:-It is agreed among the Zoolus, that their forefathers believed in the existence of an overruling spirit, whom they called Villenangi (litterally the First Appearer,) and who soon after created another heavenly being of great power, called Koolukoolwani, who once visited this earth, in order to publish the news (as they express it,) as also to separate the sexes and colours among mankind. During the period he was below, two messages were sent to him from Villenangi, the first conveyed by a camelion, announcing that men were not to die; the second, by a lizard, with a contrary decision. The lizard, having outrun the slow-paced camelion, arrived first, and delivered his message before the latter inade his appearance.

To this want of promptness they attribute our present condition as mortal beings, heaping all the odium of death upon the sluggish camelion. There are still many legends respecting Villenangi, but none of which my informant could remember, excepting that he enjoined that lamentations should be made over the dead. It is said, that many years ago, though not within the memory of the oldest person now living, sacrifices of cattle were offered to Villenangi. The generality of the people are ignorant even of this scanty tradition; but since their recent intercourse with Europeans, the vague idea of a Supreme Being has again become general. At present, the reigning king absorbs all their praises, and he is, in fact, their only idol.-In the foregoing account there is evidently an indistinct and

Rode out before breakfast to select a spot for the missionary establishment, having on my way to Congella considered this neighborhood as by far the most eligible of any part of Clomanthleen district, being in the immediate vicinity of two large military towns, and surrounded by several villages; fixed upon a hill of moderate height, skirted by the Umsondusi, a clear mountain stream, which almost encircles it. On my return to Nodunga, I agreed with Timōula, the Numzana, who had been particularly attentive, to build three huts on the spot selected, during my absence, with the intention of shortly returning to occupy them. As it was not much out of the route to the Injandūna, he accompanied me back to the spot, in order to receive the necessary directions; after which, we proceeded to Mungena's village, near the Tugăla, where we arrived at four, and remained for the night. The new missionary station I have named Culoola: which, in the Zoolu language, signifies, to loose or set free; trusting that, by the blessing of God, it may eventually be the means of loosing many souls from the captivity of Satan, and bringing them out of darkness into marvellous light.

Tuesday, 2d.-Proceded at a quarter-past eight; crossed the Tugăla to breakfast at Mr. Plankenberg's; and at half-past ten resumed my journey. Reached a ruined hut on the right bank of the Mavootie at four, where I rested until sunset, and then went on until the moon went down. Again in the wilderness, I endeavored to occupy the time by writing the following lines on horseback:

THE WILDERNESS.

What though I wend my lonely way
Far from the social haunts of men;
And every object I survey
In solemn stillness seems to say,
"Approach not our domain;"
E'en in the wilderness I love to trace
The footsteps of a God of grace.

There's not a plant that decks the ground

But speaks its great Creator's praise; The smallest insect fluttering round, The savage beasts that here abound,

Unite to witness Wisdom's ways: In Nature's book 'tis sweet to trace The tokens of a God of grace.

The wildest desert owns His hand,

The rudest mountain marks His power;
Each smiles or frowns at His command,
And all in wisdom He has planned.

He paints the cup of every flower—
In every object we may trace
The workings of a God of grace.

There are no deserts here below

All nature teems with life and love;
The loneliest spot that e'er we know
Enough of Mercy's way can show,

To raise our grovelling thoughts above
If still our hearts delight to trace
The goodness of a God of grace.

"Tis here within our bosom lies

The arid soil that yields no fruit;
That howling desert oft defies
The softening dews that heaven supplies;
Fertile in every baneful root,
Receives-but, thankless, scorns to trace-
The bounties of a God of grace.

But ah! when once those rocks are rent,

Those bitter, poisonous waters healed,
Each native flower then yields its scent,
And Eden blooms where dragons went,

And golden harvest crowns the field.
"Tis in the heart renewed we trace
The trophies of a God of grace.

And art Thou, then, my God, so near?
Does every creature point to Thee?
Then let me oft thy footsteps hear
This toilsome pilgrimage to cheer,
In every object that I see,
Make it my chiefest joy to trace
The riches of Thy boundless grace!

Wednesday, 3d.-About three miles from the Umtongata, having no tent, we made our bivouac at half-past eleven near some bushes, but with no other shelter than the starry heavens. I found it necessary frequently to arouse the people, in order to prevent the fire from going out. Quitted the walking party at eight this morning, and rode on alone to Berea, where I arrived at six o'clock.

It appears that the apprehension of the remainder of Nonha's party had occasioned much trouble, the whole of the whites and about sixty of the natives having been obliged to proceed in a body to enforce the requisition. The people of the village where they had been staying rescued them from two Englishmen and a Hottentot, who had taken them in their absence: they way-laid them, and issuing from the woods as they passed, contrived while in conversation, but without using force, to effect their purpose. On this the larger party before mentioned proceeded to the spot, but the natives alarmed at their numbers, fled to a neighboring hill. Thus posted, Mr. Cane, with two natives, volunteered to communicate with them. He went up in a firm manner and remonstrated with them, at the same time assuring them that unless the persons in question were delivered up by sunset he would instantly shoot the Numzana to whom he addressed himself. Happily no further effort was made, and the three girls were secured. But here another heart-rending scene took place.

Umfazaguatu, the Numzana, was related to the children, and evinced feelings of which humanity might boast. Suddenly casting away his assegais, he threw himself upon the ground in a supplicating posture, and only implored that he might be bound and sent to Dingarn in lieu of the prisoners. This of course could not be permitted, though all must doubtless have felt the painful necessity of acting with so much apparent rigor. On my arrival, I found them in one of my huts, in charge of two men who had been sent for the purpose from Congella. On their leaving this morning I sent, on my own responsibility, the following message to Dingarn, well knowing that it would express the sentiments of every European at Port Natal:"If deserters must be killed, let them be killed at once; but if they are to be starved to death, we are resolved that not another individual shall be sent back." The men promised to be kind to the prisoners by the way, and on no account to mention the fate which would probably await them on their arrival. My heart sickens at the thought of such barbarities still it is a duty we owe to the two thousand natives now resding here, and who, together with ourselves, would all some night have probably been immolated but for the security of the present treaty.

SUNSET AT BEREA.

How glorious is that golden hue,

What gorgeous streams of light!
What varied tints from azure blue

To deepest crimson met my sight:
At evening's close I love to gaze,
And mark the sun's declining rays.
It is a sight more felt that seen-
Our mortal part in mute amaze
Stands rapt in wonder-'tis within

We feel the power of that full blaze; Th' untrammelled spirit spreads her wings, And from that sight fresh rapture brings. She marks the last pale flickering ray,

That faintly gilds the mountain's crest, And as it gently fades away,

And darkness veils the glowing west,
A cheering emblem she descries,
It tells her how the Christian dies.
What though our eyes no more behold

The light and joy his presence gave,
The meed of bliss is yet untold-

Awaits the saints beyond the grave, Where in those realms of pure delight, One blissful day excludes the night.

Calm and serene his soul departs,

And leaves a hallowed glow behind, That whispers to our aching hearts,

Weep not as those who yet are blind To that sure hope which faith descries, Their heritage beyond the skies.

If heaven resounds with songs of praise, When first the sinner, touched by grace, Abandons all his former ways,

And humbly seeks his Saviour's face, What shouts of triumph must begin When ransomed souls are gatherered in!

Then while our burden still we bear,
Forward let us press to gain
The crown which those in glory wear,
Purchased by Him who once was slain,
The Lord our righteousness and peace,
Whose dying love will never cease.

floor of a wagon without either tilt or sides, which was drawn at a stately pace by ten oxen. Short pipes, and indispensable accompaniment, were in full action on all sides. Being the winter season, it was a sort of reunion of hunters, who, tired of chasing sea-cow* and buffalo, were now sighing for town-houses and domestic cheer. The appearance of any one of these forest-rangers would have gained the medal for any artist who could have transfixed his tout ensemble upon canvas. At length a pause was made,-This 'll do," cried one-"That 's the spot," exclaimed another. After some minutes of such-like random conversation, the whole party were compactly collected and the business at length entered upon, and conducted in a rational manner, every proposition being subjected to the votes of those who were present, and carried or negatived accordingly. It was in this impromptu manner that the town of D'Urban was named-its situation fixed-the township and church lands appropriated-and, in short, as much real business gone though as would have required at least a fortnight's hard writing and debating in any other quater of the globe.†

Saturday, 13th.-Six men of the Inthlangwain tribe arrived, from whom I obtained a confirmation of a very distressing fact-viz., a whole nation, from the pressure of extreme want, being first reduced to the dreadful necessity of subsisting upon their own children, and afterwards evincing so decided a predilection for human flesh as still to perpetuate the horrid practice of cannibalism; not, however to the extermination of their own tribe, but feasting upon the bodies of captives taken in war. These people, according to their report, inhabit a country four days north of the Tugala, and two north-west of Unkunginglove. The name of the tribe is Immithlanga, and that of their chief, Upallati. They are independent of the Zoolus, speak a dialect of the Abasootu, and are said to be geneally at war with the Amathlubi, a people bordering them on the north, under a chief named Ama- Friday, 26th-Hearing of the death of a young huangwa. Two of the men with whom I conversed, woman in a neighbouring village, I went to the Sinoieza and Pakankoothla, had been eye-witnes- spot with the hope of persuading them to disconses to the barbarities above stated, having seen tinue the revolting custom of casting the bodies them cooking and feasting on the flesh of several of deceased persons into the woods, to be devoured human bodies. Sinoieza himself appears to have by wild animals. They listened very attentively had a very narrow escape. His own father was to all my arguments; and, at the conclusion, thankspeared and eaten by them, and it was only by run-ed me for the words I had spoken, and agreed in ning away and concealing himself that he avoided a similar fate! It was in consequence of an attack from the Amatembu, some years ago, that the Immithlanga were first reduced to the horrid alternative of murdering their own children for support.

Tuesday, 23rd.-Last night, by an arrival from the Tugăla, I learned the fate of the unfortunate prisoners whom we left at Congella. They were not starved, but all put to death on the king's leaving for Unkunginglove shortly after my departure. It is said that Umthlella took this sanguinary measure upon himself, contrary to the wish of both Dingarn and Tambooza; but the fact is, these three great personages have a most convenient method of placing upon each other the responsibility they would evade, and the very next moment indemnifying the prepetrator of the act they denounced.

This afternoon a very characteristic meeting was held in one of Mr. Berkin's huts, for the purpose of selecting the site for a town. On my arrival I found the hut filled with the individuals expressly convened for this purpose. Almost total silence was observed--the subject was not even hinted at, nor had any chairman or leading person been appointed to introduce the business. At length a voice cried out," Now let's go and settle the bounds," on which I risked a question, hoping it might elicit a programme of the contemplated proceedings. "Are all present agreed as to the expediency of building a town?" To which it was replied, that their presence on this occasion was a proof that they were unanimous on this point. Thus began and ended this important conference, and off they all scampered in a posse to inspect the ground, some walking, others seated on the

future to inter their dead. In the present instance, they said, they were afraid of infection, as the woman had died after a lingering disease. It appeared that, as her end approached, she had been carried out into the woods; but they assured me that she was not left until life was extinct.

Tuesday, 30th.-Early this morninig I was awoke by cries of lamentation from the people of a village, at the foot of the hill, nearly two miles distant; and about ten o'clock two messengers arrived to inform me of the sudden death of a child, desiring also to know whether I wished it to be buried. On Sunday last I had taken occasion to introduce the subject at the conclusion of my address to the natives; and it was doubtless in consequence that the present message had been sent. Accompanied by my interpreter I soon followed them to the village, when I found that early this morning Kolelwa, the Numzäna, had lost his only child. He was seated in a solitary place by himself, at the back of his own hut, while the rest of the people, apparently in much distress, were sitting in silence in the cattle-fold. On my request to know whether they were willing to inter the body, a man came forward and communicated with the afflicted father in a low voice, who also in an under tone signified his assent. In the same manner his wishes were ascertained respecting the spot, as I thought it advisable, considering their prejudices, to refer it to his option, whether it should be in the immediate neighborhood of the village, or on an allotment of ground which should be generally appropriated for the purpose. Having decided on the former, I recommended that the necessary

* Hippopotami, (Dutch and Colonial term.) + See documents at the end of the journal.'

preparations should be made; but here there was considerable difficulty. On these occasions it is customary to administer medicine to all excepting the family of the deceased, in order, as they imagine, to preserve themselves from contagion; consequently, all the men of the place had gone in quest of their doctor, with the exception of two; but as each of their wives had infants, they excused themselves by saying they were apprehensive of communicating the disorder to their own children. My object was, if possible, to spare the father from so painful a duty; but seeing the necessity, unsolicited he took up his hoe, and accompanied by two of his wives and these two men, who seemd willing to render all the assistance their scruples would allow, proceeded before us to the wood. After threading an intricate part, and winding about for some little distance, they stopped. Inquiring if that was the spot they had chosen, Kolelwa replied, "You must show us." On being again told that it was left entirely for his decision, they proceeded a few paces further, and then commenced one of the most distressing scenes I ever witnessed. A father with his own hand opening the ground with his hoe, and scooping out a grave for his own child, assisted only by one of his wives-while the bereaved mother, in the bitterness of her grief, seated under some bushes, like another Hagar, watched every movement, but dared not trust herself nearer to the mournful spot. When all was prepared, Kolelwa returned, with the wife who had assisted him, for the body—Nombûna, the mother, still remaining half concealed among the trees. Every thing was conducted so silently that I did not perceive their return, until suddenly turning to the spot I observed the woman supporting the body so naturally upon her lap, as she sat on the ground, that at first I really supposed it had been a living child. Dipping a bundle of leafy boughs into a calabash of water, the body was first washed by the father, and then laid by him in the grave; on which I read a selection from the burial service (such portions only as were strictly applicable;) concluding with a short exhortation to those who were present. The entire opening was then filled in with large faggots, over which earth was thrown, and above all a considerable pile of thorny boughs and branches heaped, in order to render it secure from the approach of wild animals. I have been thus minute in describing every circumstance, as the whole was arranged by the natives themselves, considering it not only as due to their feelings to interfere as little as possible, but likewise as the surest way to accustom them gradually to adopt a more decent method of sepulture. Before they returned home they all went, as is customary, to wash themselves. As it rarely occurs that any excepting kings and some of their principal men, are interred, I conclude that the above is the usual method on such ocasions. In the Zoolu country it is not, however, unfrequent to inter soldiers of note, as well as those who have attained to a great age, such being held in great esteem. When a death occurs in a town or village, no milk is drunk, nor are the cattle allowed to be milked on that day. The body is interred after sunset; but although t is customary for the immediate relatives to reinquish their usual food, and subsist upon wild oots until the next new moon, they do not desert

their houses, as is generally the case among the Amakosa.

Thomas Halstead, who has just returned from a trading excursion in the Zoolu country, arrived here this morning with a full confirmation of the unpleasant reports which, through the medium of natives, had reached us some days previously. A peremptory order had been given by Dingarn for his leaving the country, coupled with directions that he was not on any account to be supplied with milk or provisions by the way. All trade was prohibited with Port Natal; and, with the exception of myself and my interpreter, no white person was in future to cross the Tugăla. Under these circumstances, without any clue to the cause of such a sudden rupture, I have no reason to regard the strange exception made in my favor as a very enviable distinction; indeed, from the construction put upon it by the natives, who do not hesitate to say that it is merely a blind to lull me into security, the mildest treatment I can expect will be to be retained as a hostage for the good conduct of my countrymen, on my very next arrival within the dominions of the despot.

Wednesday, July 1st.-Resolved to set out without delay, and ascertain from Dingarn himself on what account the late harsh orders have been given. I have just been informed by Mr. Cane, that the people of the village, where the child died so suddenly yesterday morning, have apprehended and killed a man, whom they charge with having poisoned him. From the account given by the natives, he had been obliged to leave the Inthlangwăni country on a similar charge; and in the present instance there was too much presumptive evidence of his guilt to clear him from the horrid imputation. They acknowledged to Mr Cane, whom they regard as their chief, that they had done wrong in taking the law into their own hands; but pleaded the impossibility of living in security with such a person among them, and the humanity of the white people, who they knew, had they expressed their suspicions, would not have suffered him to have been put to death. The wonder is, that in a community such as this, where there is not a vestige of law, similar occurrences do not more frequently take place; happily, the natives are very abstemious, and by no means quarrelsome, and are accustomed to pay great deference to those Europeans whom they regard as their chiefs.

Thursday, 2nd.-Having borrowed a horse for my interpreter, I set out on horseback for the Zoolu country soon after noon, accompanied by some natives carrying my baggage. On the other side of the Umgăni we found the grass burning to a considerable extent; this being the season when, on account of its extreme dryness, the old grass is usually set on fire. In one part the line of flame united across the road, obliging me to make a little detour, and, indeed, to push my horse over some of the burning grass, in order to regain it without making a considerable circuit. The wind was driving the flame up the sides of the hills in long lines, which, added to the loud cracking noise, had a very singular effect. The appearance in a dark night of these extensive burnings is often very beautiful, but by no means equal to the flaming forests which I have witnessed in North America.

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