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sun is mounting over the Alps before our window, about seven feet in one hundred. Conceive our and is throwing this romantic village into a beau- delight in witnessing this bold undertaking, espetiful picture of light and shade—and hurries us cially when you consider that the valley itself is off for our day's journey.
one of the most picturesque we have yet seen ; Amstag, one o'clock, Valley of the Reuss, sixteen noble mountains; the river winding, now its frightmiles from Hospital.-I am now sitting, faint with ful, and then its gentle, course; ravines intersectheat, at one of the windows of the dining hall of ing the valley, and carrying down the smaller torthe inn, with a burning sun full on the four open rents; meadows and orchards delighting the eye windows of the room ;-such is the effect of a de- as we descended lower; a forest of firs, varying scent of two or three thousand feet in this marvel- the scenery for a mile or more; villages, with their lous country—yesterday as cold as Christmas, to- little chapels, now and then appearing : the whole day as hot as Midsummer. But this is nothing; 1 augmented by one of the finest days nature ever must positively employ half an hour, while dinner presented to man, with a gentle north wind to mois preparing, in giving you some idea, if I can, of the derate the heat. I was grieved to see that in many extraordinary valley through which we have been places the new road was already injured by the passing. It is called, by the inhabitants, Krachen- torrents and falling masses of rocks, so that a conthal, Roaring Valley, on account of the tremendous stant expense will be incurred—but dinner internoise with which the Reuss rushes from rock to rupts my story. rock. It is certainly one of the wonders of Swit 1 resume my letter at Altorf, the capital of the zerland.
canton of Uri, half-past seven, Tuesday evening, We rode about two miles, on leaving the Hos- after a ride of three hours and a half. I was speakpital, in the wide open valley, without a tree, the ; ing of the expense and labor which this new road Reuss rolling along its course; when we came to a will require, and which heighten the merit of the mighty rock, which seemed quite to stop the road. enterprise. I should add, that it very much protects As we approached, we found a tunnel or gallery had passengers from the danger of the avalanches from been bored through the solid granite, fifteen feet the mountains, which were often destructive. Such high, twelve broad, and two hundred and twenty was the terror of them, that formerly travellers were long. This is better than the bridge hung with not allowed to speak in certain parts of the road, chains, and dangling on the outside of the rock lest even that slight agitation of the air should occaover the torrent, which was the old road. We sion a fall of snow.* It further facilitates the imnow descended by a narrow paved way, ten feet mense traffic carried on between Lucern, Milan, wide, to what it called the Devil's Bridge, thrown and Northern Italy. We met a drove of noble oxen, over the fall of the Reuss, which here meets with and many teains of mules laden with casks. Milan tremendous precipices, and foams as it rushes down is twelve or thirteen days' journey from Hospital. them. The bridge seems built in the air, from its The people in these villages seem to me untidy elevation and boldness; it is one hundred feet above and poor. The meadows are rich; and they use the river. Its span is seventy-five feet, and the a high wooden frame for drying hay, which raises fall of the Reuss under it, in a slanting direction, the grass above the ground, and makes it in twelve is at least three hundred feet. The architect is or fourteen hours. not known; and the extreme frightfulness of the In coming on to Altorf, we stopped at Burglen cataract over which it is thrown, has probably led to visit a chapel built on the spot where William the common people to ascribe it to fairies first, Tell was born. It is decorated with pictures reand then to the evil spirit. The scene is, perhaps, lating to the events of his life. Altorf is a small unparalleled for sublimity and terror. The road Catholic town of one thousand six hundred souls. after this continues to descend the valley, like It abounds with monuments of William Tell. The stairs for steepness. It is built against the perpen- tower, the fountains,-every thing is designed to dicular rock, and sustained in many places by commemorate him. His history is connected with arches and walls on the side of frightful gulfs. For all the liberty of Switzerland. a league this miraculous sort of tract extends. We met on our way to-day many peasants laden During all this time the roaring Reuss continues with wood for the valley of Ursern, where Hospital to roll its agitated torrent. I think this is the most is. As no trees grow there, all their wood (coals romantic of all the Swiss rivers. It never ceases are unknown) is brought up three leagues. On its rage. From rock to rock, from precipice to pre- our road, also, we met our friend and companion, cipice, it dashes forward, with a succession of falls; who, after spending his Sunday at Stantz, came to sometimes lost among the masses of stone, then Altorf last night, and was going to visit the Vale appearing again in redoubled force.
of the Reuss; we are now at the same hotel. He We soon came to Goeschinen, where a new reports that he remained at Stantz on Saturday, road, passable for carriages, begins, and goes on not because he was weary of the mountain road, nearly four leagues, to Ainstag, the place where I but because his horse and boy were equally bad, am now writing. It is a surprising undertaking for so bad that he despaired of reaching Lucern by a small Swiss canton, (Uri) to have formed a road, their means. He thinks the new road which I twenty-five feet wide, by the labor of several thou- have so much commended, takes off, in some places, sand hands in three years; I know nothing in from the picturesque beauty of the scenery, as he England like it for hardy and dangerous enterprise. beheld it four years since. It is as smooth as our Bath road; and has been formed by blowing up rocks, dividing places dan- the devastation occasioned by the avalanches this
* I am sorry to see from the Swiss Journals that gerous to travellers, throwing, bridges over the winter (1824) has been particularly great. The valtorrents, (there are seven or eight) still keeping leys of Gauli
, Gadmen, and Guitanen, are stated to the inclination so gentle, that it descends only I have suffered severely.
Switz, the capital of the canton of that name, (and that almost every traveller ascends it. It is not from which the whole of the country is called,) Wed the road to any town, as the other Alps I have nesday, quarter before 10.-We set off this morn- crossed are, but an insulated spot, which has being a quarter before six, and saw the melancholy come celebrated from the comparative easiness of effects of a fire at Altorf, in 1799. The ruined the approach. The moment a fine day appears, houses remained yet unrepaired. We came to all the world hurry forwards to the only inn and Flüelen in an hour, and there embarked on the only house on the extreme summit of this vast elelake of Lucern for Brunnen. The passage of two vation. hours was exquisite, from the noble and grand The scene at the table-d’hôte is comic beyond character of the scenery of the lake. We stop- description. We were between five and six hours ped a moment at the spot where William Tell coming up the mountain, in many parts by stairs escaped from the boat in which they were convey- so steep, that we ascended at a rate of forty feet ing him to prison, and where a chapel is now in a hundred. The heat added to the fatigue; built.
but the extraordinary scene, now we are at the I promised to tell you something about this ex- top, surpasses all my conceptions, even of what traordinary man. It was in November, 1307, that Switzerland could produce. The eye has an unthe Austrian bailiff Gesier, having placed his hat impeded view all around. It is a sort of natural upon a pole, at Altorf, and ordered every one who panorama. The main disadvantage (which yet passed to salute it, William Tell nobly refused. adds, perhaps, to the interest of the excursion) is He was condemned, as you may remember, to the uncertainty of finding a bright, unclouded sky shoot at an apple placed on the head of his son. at this great elevation : either the valleys or the He struck off the apple ; but Gesler, observing a tops of the mountains are commonly obscured with second arrow in the hand of Tell, asked him what a dark mantle of clouds. As we were at supper, he meant to do with it: “ It was destined for you,” we were hurried out to ascend a wooden platform, replied he, “ if I had killed my child.” He was forty or fifty feet high raised on the edge of the seized instantly, chained, and thrown into a boat precipice, to behold a gathering storm. We were which was to convey the governor back to his astonished at the sublime sight. One quarter of castle at Küssnacht. A storm fell on the lake. In the horizon was illuminated with the setting sun imminent danger of perishing, they released Tell in the softest beauty, whilst in another quarter from his chains, and suffered him to take the gui- the most gloomy storm shrouded with all its hordance of the vessel. The hero leaped on shore rors the tops of the adjoining mountains, and was upon the rock where the chapel now stands; out- approaching the Righi--but I must absolutely stripped Gesler; waited for him in a hollow path, stop. and transfixed him with an narrow. The Linden Righi, five o'clock, Thursday morning. I was tree, at Altorf, against which the child stood, re- compelled to break off last night by the excessive mained till 1567, two hundred years after the death noise in the dining hall: I had half a dozen peoof Tell, which happened in 1356. His family was ple talking to me at once, and therefore was soon not extinct until the year 1720. A chapel stands wearied out, and retired to rest. My friend and I on the spot, at Grutli
, where the confederation were crowded into a small room, the feet of our oath was taken, in January 1308. Thus was the beds touching each other; presently the house foundation of liberty and knowledge, of national became more noisy than ever with the company virtue and piety, laid in Switzerland. The Refor- going to their chambers, (for these wooden houses mation two centuries after, so far as it extended, shake at every step,) and soon after, the storm completed the deliverance.
which was lowering in the evening, began to deWe landed at Brunnen at nine, and came on to scend—the lightning, thunder, and rain were treSwitz. The lake we have crossed is, perhaps, the mendous ; I really thought the house would have finest in Switzerland-eight leagues long, four and fallen. It is now five in the morning, and the rain a half wide, bordering on the four forest cantons, and the brouillard completely obscure the whole Switz, Uri, Underwald, and Lucern. Between scene; nevertheless all the house is in motion, Brunnen and Switz, we passed the bridge, cover- and families are going down the hill. Fifty-one ed as usual, of Ibach, where the battle took place persons slept here last night-twenty-four gentry; between Suwarrow and Massena, in 1799. twenty-seven servants and guides ; in the course
Twelve o'clock.- I never dined better in my life of yesterday, there had been fifty-two gentry.at eleven o'clock, than I have here: we are now The house is very small. I find a New Testagoing to ascend mount Righi. This town of Switz ment of the Bible Society in this Catholic solitude, is in a garden of natural beauties. The vast rocks with an inscription to state that it was left by behind it are like giant sentinels to guard it. Messrs. Treuttell and Wurtz, “for the use of
Wednesday evening, top of Mount Righi.-I Christians whom the bad weather might prevent must write a line to you to-night, though in a from seeing and admiring the great work of the salle-a-manger crowded with French, German, creation, and adoring the Creator, by mounting Swiss, English, all talking together, in a hotel on towards him by the help of his works.” In the the summit of the Righi, six thousand one hun- strangers' book I was startled to see the name of dred and fifty-six feet above the sea, and four his present majesty, George IV., who assuredly thousand five hundred above Switz. The pecu- never ascended this mountain. liarity of this mountain is not so much its great When the weather is fine, fourteen lakes are height, as the accessible and yet commanding visible here, and the sun rising upon the range of point in which it terminates, which gives it, when the Alps is magnificent. They may be traced the weather is clear, one of the noblest and most from the Glarnish on the east, to the Oberland extensive views in the world: the consequence is, Bernois on the southwest ; whilst on the north,
your eye may range from the lake of Constance safety, returned to deliver the rest of his family. to that of Neufchâtel Al Switzerland, to the He searched amongst the sad remains of his cast and north, is open before you; and much house; a foot appeared above the ruins; he apfurther, into Suabia. The only hill we could dis- proached, he recognisod a part of his wife's dress; tinguish last night was Mount Pilate, which is he uttered the most piercing lamentations, which called properly Mons Pileatus, or Mountain with reached the ears of the servant and Marianne, who a Cap, because a cloud generally rests on its ex- instantly redoubled their cries. The father knew treme top, even in the finest weather. The com- his child's voice, and rescued her with only a mon people say that Pontius Pilate came here broken limb. The maid was afterwards taken out, and threw himself down the precipice in despair, scarcely alive. They both recovered. for having condemned our Saviour.
It is remarkable, that in this very neighborhood, As the morning is so unfavorable, and breakfast an entire street of Zug, with a part of the towers is not ready, I must tell you a sad story. As we and walls of the town, sunk, without a moment's ascended the Righi yesterday, we passed over the warning, into the lake, in the year 1435. Sixty melancholy ruins of the village of Goldau. In 1806 persons then perished. The infant son of the an immense mass of earth from the Rossberg, gra- keeper of the archives, Adelrich Wikard, who was dually loosened by two or three months' rain, fell found floating in his cradle on the waters, was down with scarcely a moment's warning: it was rescued, and became afterwards the father of a the 2d of September; four villages, of which Gol- family which deserved well of the state. dau was the chief, lay at the foot of the mountain. O God, how unfathomable are thy judgments ! All was buried in an instant-two churches, one thus is it that thou alarmest a sleeping world, and hundred and eleven houses, two hundred barns, callest man to prepare for sudden death, and sud&c., and four hundred persons, with three hun- den judgment; whilst the grace of thy Gospel sets dred and twenty-five head of cattle, were over- before them a dying Saviour, whose redemption whelmed; and a new ruinous mountain, one hun- no falling rocks nor sudden destruction can overdred and fifty feet high, was formed by the vast whelm ; nay, which will appear most glorious
The loss was estimated at three millions when the heavens being on fire shall be dissolveight hundred and forty thousand livres of France. ed, and the earth shall melt with fervent heat!"
Those who had been aware of the dangerous It is astonishing and terrific as you ride over state of the mountain, and the probability of some the place where Goldau stood; the ruins are disaster, were not warned in time. Two old in- above one hundred feet deep; the adjoining lake habitants who had predicted the calamity, when of Lowertz was filled up for fifty feet. Many persome one rushed into their cottage, and told them sons beheld the ruin from the top of the Righi; the rock was actually falling, disbelieved the mes and were compelled to witness the destruction of sage, and were lost. A party of ten persons had their own lands and houses, without the possibilibeen two months waiting for fine weather to visit ty of giving any aid. Only a few bodies and manMount Righi. They set off for Switz the day of gled limbs have been dug up after seventeen years. the catastrophe; five of them staid a moment be- Such was the tremendous impetus of the falling hind the rest, to take some provisions ; the instant rock, that prodigious masses were carried by the the others entered Goldau, the enormous ruin car- rebound many hundred feet up the opposite hill
, ried them away
i. e. perhaps three or four leagues from the sumA physician from the neighboring village of mit whence they fell. Such a scene I never witArth, Dr. Zay, has published an account of the nessed. Still, the love of their native spot is so calamity. During the whole day the air was deeply fixed in the Swiss, that two or three new darkened with clouds of rock and earth. Entire houses are beginning to rise in the midst of the forests, and large blocks of the mountain, were ruins. One of the churches has been rebuilt; the borne through the air as swiftly as an arrow.-grass is now hiding by degrees the frightful specHouses, cattle, men, all were dragged along, and tacle, and even some strips of meadows are formseemed to fly in the midst of the heavens. Seve- ing here and there. ral females and children were almost miraculously Righi, 10 o'clock.—The morning is actually preserved. Two women were forced into a pit clearing up. fifteen feet deep, and thus escaped. A maid ser Eleven o'clock.—No: all our hopes are disapvant, Jeanne Ulrich, with Marianne, a little girl pointed; the valley is filled with clouds ; fogs are five years old, were overwhelmed. The maid rising and covering every thing with one mantle was torn from the child, and hung, suspended of deep and impenetrable obscurity. Thus we among beams of wood and ruins, which crushed shall be compelled to leave this queen of mounher on all sides. Her eyes were filled with blood. tains without seeing all its magnificence of prosShe thought the last day was come, and betook pect. I may as well tell you, before I lay by my herself to prayer. She heard the cries of the child. letter, that in coming up yesterday, we visited the Two hours passed; a neighboring church clock convent of St. Mary in the Snow, four thousand struck, but no help arrived. The cries of the child two hundred feet above the sea, where a small became fainter and fainter, and at last ceased.--convent of Capuchin friars, for receiving strangers, The girl
, thinking she was dead, made desperate is supported. The little church adjoining is cuefforts to liberate herself
, and at last freed her riously adorned; and in the small village two inns legs from the mass of ruins. Soon the little Ma- have been built within three years. rianne began again to cry; she had fallen asleep, In the strangers' book on Mount Righi, I find and on waking renewed her lamentations. Two so many fictions, that I have now no difficulty in hours more elapsed, when the child's parent, Vi- accounting for the insertion of the name of the guet, who had carried his two sons to a place of king; but I have called in all the people of the
house and examined them, and they stoutly affirm I feel, as it were, quite uncomfortable, lest I should that our king was here, and wrote with his own have failed in giving them a faithful impression of hand his name and date, October, 1816, and that the Gospel of Christ; and yet, if these young he came with three ladies and four gentlemen in Russians have heard me, so may others from other his suite. Such is the vanity of these good people! lands. What a responsible office is that of the
Perhaps I cannot employ myself better than by sacred ministry! What diligence, what solicigoing on to say, that the keeping of a strangers' tude, what uprightness, what simplicity in followbook is one of those foreign customs which one ing the Holy Scriptures, what humility and fer. cannot but approve of. It is, perhaps, a little gall- vor in imploring the grace of the sacred Coming at first to an Englishman, to be obliged to put forter, does it require ? down his name, age, country, family, time of ar Lucern, Friday morning, seven o'clock.-We rival, place of destination, motives of journey, &c., arrived here last night; the weather a little as soon as he drives into a town. But the plea- cleared up after dinner yesterday at the Righi, sure is so great to see what countrymen or friends and at two we mounted our beasts to descend; are before you on the road, and to look back and three hours brought us to Küssnacht, a town on read the names of travellers in past years, that the lake of Lucern; and three hours more to this you are soon delighted with the plan. In frontier town. The weather was rainy, but still tolerable. towns the book is often under the regulation of The views of the surrounding country, as we the police; but in small towns in the interior, and came down, were lovely: we had the lakes of places of fashionable resort, as the fall of the Rhine, Lucern and Zug full before us. The road from Mount Righi, &c., it partakes more of the nature Küssnacht was positively through a garden, by of an album, in which travellers write down any the side of the lake, with just those gentle rises sentiments they please, together with their names. which gave us the sweetest views imaginable. Sometimes an opinion is given of the country they We have now finished our Oberland tour of have passed through, or advice as to inns and two hundred and forty-nine miles; only it haproads; at other times a short poetical effusion is pens, that we are landed at a town nearly seventy inserted, or a stroke of wit and drollery. You miles from Bern, and have thus two days' journey meet occasionally with very admirable thoughts, to reach my dear family. We visited yesterday and bursts of real genius. My friend transcribed a third chapel of William Tell
, built by the goa striking copy of verses. It is curious even to vernment, on the spot where he slew Ġesler the look over the hand-writing of celebrated indivi- Austrian governor. So that there is a tower, as duals. The strangers' book, further, enables you I have before mentioned, at Altorf, on the place to compare the number of travellers from different where William Tell's child stood with the apple countries. I counted once or twice, and found the on his head; a fountain where the father stood; English four or five times as numerous as those a chapel on the site of his house at Burglen ; a of any other nation. It is much to be regretted, second where he escaped from the boat conductthat the unpardonable license of a few persons, I ing him to prison; a third where he slew the opam afraid chiefly Englishmen, is rapidly tending pressor of his country; and another where the to put an end to this innocent and gratifying cus- oath of confederation was taken at Grutli—at this tom, or at least to the confining of it to the dry re- last place, an English wag has written on the cord of the police towns.
wall, “ Cato street conspirators !” Thus is the Righi, twelve o'clock.-We are in as miserable love of liberty nourished in the breasts of this a plight as ever poor creatures were: a dreadful fine people : Catholics and Protestants seem the wet day-shut up in a close room, as in a prison same in this respect. There is a public spirit, a -scarcely able to breathe—five or six leagues to hardy courage, a patriotism, an independence of reach Lucern-no prospect—nothing but rain and mind, about the Swiss, connected with a ready fog. Some of the party are endeavoring to throw subjection to lawful authority, and a sense of moa ring, suspended by a cord from the ceiling, upon ral and religious obligation, which are the true a hook fixed at a suitable distance in the wall of foundations of national prosperity. Their adhethe room—a trait of genuine ennui.
rence to all their ancient usages, even in their For my own part, I have been amusing myself dress, is observable ; each canton has its costume. with talking with two Italian gentlemen-well At Switz, the women have caps with two high informed — admirers of England - discontented white frills, plaited, and standing nearly erect on with their existing government-ready for change their heads, like two butterfly's wings; quite dif-with no great attachment to Popery ; really this ferent from the Bernois, yet equally fantastical is the case with all the foreigners we meet. Ty- and inconvenient. ranny, in a day of general information, galls the This Oberland country has, on the whole, filled mind, and defeats, and must defeat, its own pur-me with wonder, astonishment, and gratitude. pose. I endeavor to give the best advice I can; “How glorious, O God, are thy works, and thy dwelling chiefly on the importance of the Scrip- thoughts are very deep." o that, in this glotures, and the elevating nature of true Chris- rious creation, man did but love and obey Thee tianity. I have been deeply interested also, with as he ought! two students from St. Petersburgh-amiable, Lucem, where we now are, is the capital of the scholar-like young men ; they spent last winter in canton, and romantically situated on the northEngland. I shall not soon forget their surprise, west banks of the lake of four cantons. It is just when they happened to discover who I was in the heart of Switzerland. It is one thousand They had frequently heard me preach in London. three hundred and twenty feet above the sea.
The meeting thus with occasional auditors, on a The fine river Reuss crosses it, over which there sudden, in the heart of Switzerland, appals me. are three bridges. The name is probably derived
from the Latin word, Lucerna, a lamp or light- | images of the Virgin re-awakened that pain of house; as the most ancient building is the great mind which the Protestant cantons had soothed. tower where the light was formerly suspended; A noble monument just erected to the Swiss repossibly in the time of the Romans. It contains six giment, who perished at Paris, in defending Louis thousand souls. It is the great mart of commerce XVI., August 10, 1792, very much interested us; between Switzerland and northern Italy, the road it is a lion, 28 feet long, cut out in the rock, and over St. Gothard beginning at Altorf, the other the names of the officers inscribed beneath. side the lake. The Catholic religion is here pre
The three covered bridges in the town are survalent; so that all up mount Righi we found sta- prising structures ; the first, that of the Court, is tions and crucifixes for pilgrims. Many of the one thousand four hundred feet long ; the second, priests are said to be men of piety and informa- one thousand one hundred; in the spaces between tion, and to have been on the point of embracing the beams of the first there are two hundred
and Protestantism a few years back. Some political thirty-eight paintings from the Old and New Tesevents unhappily interfered to delay the execution tament; and of the second, one hundred and fiftyof this good design.
four from the lives of the heroes and saints of In these free states, a reformation may be ef- Switzerland. A third bridge has thirty-six picfected with comparative ease, if once the minds tures from Holbein's Dance of Death. The river of the leading magistrates and clergy are duly in- Reuss is here of a deep blue-green color, very formed and impressed with divine truth. They rapid, and so clear that you may count the stones
We ascended two hills which depend on no foreign potentate. A majority of at the bottom. the senate determines all questions. What they commanded magnificent views of the town, the once resolve on, they never want courage
lake, the adjoining hills, and distant Alps : per
perform. It was thus that the reformed doctrines fectly enchanting. were received at Zurich, Bern, &c. in the six Zofingen, Saturday morning. It was eleven teenth century: The German language prevails o'clock before we were in bed last night; the fact through the Oberland; so that I have had no is, we spent all the morning in seeing Lucern, and great means of gaining information on the general had a journey of six hours
and a half to take after state of morals and religion. I can speak indeed three o'clock, in order to reach Bern by Saturday of particular facts which fall under my own ob- night. I have only further to say about Lucern, servation ; but when I come to reflections on a that the views from the bridges and the neighborwhole canton, I remember the diffidence which ing hills are some of the very finest in Switzerbecomes a stranger on such subjects. Still, i land. Zurich and Lucern are the most enchantcannot but avow, that the general appearance of ing towns we have seen. The road hither ran by these Catholic cantons is strongly against them; the side of the lake of Sempach; but by seven the whilst in Bern all is industry and cleanliness, and evening came on, and we could see little of the not a beggar to be seen.
prospect; a fine moon-light, however, aided us. Zofingen, thirty miles from Lucern, half-past
At the town of Sursee, whilst we were taking nine, Friday night.-While supper is preparing, I some refreshment, I saw a portrait of Père Girard will write something of the occurrences of a most of Fribourg. The son of the aubergiste had been delightful day. After breakfast this morning, we
his scholar: I sent for the boy in. He had been went to see a model of Lucern and the neighbor- five years at school-seemed a fine, clever lading country, on a scale of about thirteen inches to spoke in the highest terms of M. Girard. He tells a league. It was most gratifying to trace out me, M. G. had five classes, and four or five hunpart of the tour we had just made. Our attend- dred children, at Fribourg; and that he gave lecant pointed out the model of one Alp, the Titlis, tures on the catechism, and taught the children on which the ice lies one hundred and seventy-five
the New Testament. He was, in truth, too good feet thick in summer. General Pfyffer spent his for the Papists;—they raised an opposition—the life in traversing the mountains, and executing
Jesuits aided-and Père Girard's whole establishthis model. A portrait of him, in his travelling ment is now broken up. This aubergiste had dress, adorns the room; and his camp-seat, of a sent his son fifty-five miles to this good schoolmost simple but admirable contrivance, was shown master. These individual cases of piety and zeal us. We next visited the arsenal, and saw the continually occur. The intrepidity and faith of sword of Zuingle, the Reformer, (for he was such men are of a character which we have little compelled, by the law of the republic, to bear conception of in England, surrounded by Protestarms, and he fell on the field of Capelle, in 1531 ;)* ant connections and protected by Protestant laws. and then the Jesuits' church and the cathedral, Surely charity should peculiarly rejoice in such where the tawdry ornaments and superstitious triumphs of the grace of God, in the midst of the
corruptions of Popery. *I cannot but just add here, that undoubtedly there was too much of secular politics mixed up with be raised. Religion was with him a matter of the the higher principles of the Swiss Reformers. An heart, and the reformed doctrines the consolation of interference with the temporal governments proved his aroused and most tender conscience; and all one very lamentable impediment to the advance of this in a very peculiar degree. Others may have the Reformation. The character of Luther stands had more learning, as Melancthon; or more acutepre-eminent, above allthe Reformers, in this respect. ness, as Calvin or Zuingle; but for deep, affecting His wisdom, spirituality of mind, subjection to the views of religion, superiority to secular politics, and powers that be, as ordained of God," and moderation experience of inward temptations, united with on doubtful points, (except in the sacramentarian magnanimity of mind, and uncommon powers of controversy,) placed him on an elevation, to which eloquence, none can be compared, I think, with MarI am not aware that any of his contemporaries can I tin Luther,