Emmendingen, 33 miles from Kehl, Wednesday evening, July 23.-We have had a delightful drive to-day, through nineteen towns and villages, near the Rhine still, though not within sight of it. In some places the prospect was magnificent; the loftiest mountains in varied outline before us, and a sweet fore-ground of villages, spires, and woods. Occasionally we have vineyards; but hemp and hops abound. The houses are sometimes painted in front with various devices of flowers, balustrades, and other ornaments. The signs at the inns are of cut or cast iron figures, with gilded ornaments. Some of the women wear long hair, plaited, reaching behind almost to the feet, or else two long ribbons in a similar way. As we enter the villages, sometimes a whole band of peasants take off their hats and salute us, with the utmost complaisance. Hoellenthal, or the Infernal Valley, between Frey

burg and Neustadt, Thursday night, July 24.-planes and ridges. Eliza's account was the most We set off this morning, from Emmendingen, satisfactory; she did not know how she passed and came eight miles to Freyburg, a town of the night, for she had not awoke once. In the eleven_thousand souls, on the entrance of the mean time, the servant girls were clearing out the Black Forest. We were much delighted with the boys' room, to get the breakfast ready for us.— cathedral, which, though smaller than that of We started between seven and eight, and came Strasburg, is more beautiful. The open-work of eight miles to Neustadt, where I am now writing, the tower is really surprising; I observed, as we a small town on the Black Forest. A tremendous mounted its five hundred and thirteen steps, that hill, called Hoellensteig, or the Infernal Hill, led five open spaces in the walls occurred for every to a more open country, on the bosom of which closed part; the tower being supported by these cottages were sprinkled, with here and there a closed parts, and the stone staircase which runs chapel entirely of wood, about four yards square; up within it. It is just as if the Monument in we entered one-the cross, an altar, and rude London were built, not with closed walls, but with offerings, were within. We soon passed one or five-sixths of them in open-work; it really is quite two comfortable hotels. We ought to have pressincredible. After dining, at half-past twelve, weed on to one of them last night, and not to have came, in five hours, fifteen miles, to this valley, implicitly followed the advice of our voiturier, who from which I am writing. has full as much regard for his horses as for us.— In fact, with a large party like ours, and two carriages, it would be far better to divide, when we have to spend the night in small villages, than to crowd into one miserable inn.

I was not prepared to expect any thing beyond a common drive; but the extraordinary magnificence of the scenery was such as to dispute with the finest parts of the Rhine. For ten or twelve miles the road followed the windings of a lovely stream, the Treisam, through a valley adorned on each side with craggy mountains of stupendous height; on the sides of which, the hanging woods of dark fir were beyond measure grand and sublime. The views on the Rhine had indeed more of softness joined with grandeur-the noble river and vineyards were peculiar to them-but the scenes to-day had something more of wild and rude nature in her most majestic forms. Our hotel to-night is a deduction from the varied pleasures of the day; we are crowded into a close, low, miserable bed-room, where we had to eat our supper. For a tea-urn we had a common open sauce-pan and ladle; in fact, the inn is the end of a large building like a barn, and the rooms are so low, we can hardly stand upright in them; all is a contrast to the beautiful scene stretched before our view by the hand of Nature.

The houses here are curious: a large roof stretches beyond the walls, on all hands, ten or twelve feet; under this projecting roof a gallery runs along on the outside of the first story, and sometimes a second gallery at the second story. The rooms are so allotted, as to provide stable, wood-house, carpenter's shop, &c. &c. under the same roof. The houses are entirely of wood, which exudes a gum with which they are stained; the galleries are for entrance when the winter snow blocks up the ground floor. The women now begin to appear in stockings, but these are of a deep red; they have no gowns, but their under-dress is turned up like a pudding-sleeve gown, short round the arm; they wear large hats of an immense circumference, with the rims stretched out in an immovable circle. All is Gerinan still; so that I can obtain little moral or religious information. We had our coachman up into the chamber this afternoon, as our interpre

ter.

It was impossible to do without him. Friday morning.-Our meeting this morning at breakfast was most curious. My friend reported that he had been thrust into a miserable hole of a room, into which people were continually entering-his bed intolerable-scarcely any sleep. My boys were almost suffocated, and had little rest. Ann and I had beds with double inclined

This Black Forest covers fifty leagues of country; it was the cradle of those formidable Germans who annihilated the Roman Empire. Sixteen thousand souls live in it, in insulated cabins; these cabins have long roofs covering the galleries, and reaching down to the earth behind the dwelling-house; the barn is over the house; the whole is built of beams crossed and tied together, without bricklayer's work; and the ceilings of the rooms are wainscot, and they use slips of fir for candles: they trade in wood-work, which finds its way even to America.

Donaueschingen, 21 miles from Hoellensteig, 13 from Neustadt, Friday night.-This is a small town, consisting of two thousand souls, at the extremity of the Duchy of Baden. It is beautifully situated on elevated ground. Near to it rises the Danube, the noblest river in Europe, which washes in its course fifteen hundred miles of the territories of Bavaria, Austria, and Hungary, till it empties itself in the Black Sea. Some of its springs are in the court-yard of the Château, in an enclosed basin of thirty feet square; whence a rivulet flows, which joins the Brigach and the Breg (two far more considerable streams,) and is called the Danube. We jumped over it with ease.— From what obscure causes do the mightiest effects flow! A river celebrated throughout the world, and rolling by some of the noblest cities, is here feeble and inconsiderable! It is thus the current of evil from a single individual, small at first, sometimes swells as it flows, till distant regions are desolated with its waves. The sources of the widest blessings to mankind have also their first rise in small and unnoticed beginnings. Nay, the first bursting forth of that well of water which springeth up into everlasting life" is small and inconsiderable. No wise man undervalues the beginnings of things.

We have now pursued the Rhine three hundred and fifty miles in its majestic and fruitful course, and have visited the Danube in its first feeble and unperceived struggles. Thus the two noblest and most celebrated rivers in Europe are associated in our minds in their origin or their progress, and will be connected with the numerous events of ancient and modern history, which our

Sunday, July 27.-"My soul is athirst for God, yea, for the living God; when shall I come and Schaffhausen contains about seven thousand appear before the presence of God?" says the insouls. Many of the fronts of the houses are co-spired Psalmist; and such would I wish to be my vered from the top to the bottom with the devices feelings on this my sixth silent Sunday. I have which I have before mentioned. Several statues been to the Protestant German service, (all the of Swiss heroes adorn the public places. The son canton is Protestant;) a venerable clergyman, of the principal innkeeper talks very good English. seventy or eighty years of age, preached. I would He spent six months in England for the purpose of have given any thing to have understood him; his learning the language. He spoke to me with great manner was so earnest, so impressive, so affecfeeling of the kindness of Dr. Steinkopff; and tionate, so impassioned; his voice majestic, and there evidently appeared to be a strong religious yet sweet. The service began with singing, impression remaining on his mind, from what he (which was vociferation rather than singing;) had seen of the zeal of our societies for the propa- then a prayer by the minister, who came from the gation of the Gospel, and of the high tone of Chris-gallery into a sort of tribune opening from it; after tian doctrine and practice in our happy country. this a sermon and prayer; singing concluded. We have an introduction to a professor of theology here, who is an example of primitive kindness. Soon after our arrival, we took a cabriolet, and drove three miles, to see the celebrated fall of the Rhine. The road leading to it is exquisite; vineyards stretch over all the sides of the mountains,

mon.

At twelve, we went to the catechising at the cathedral; it was very pleasing to see one or two hundred children seated in order, whilst a minister heard thern a portion of the Heidelberg Catechism, one of the most excellent of all the Protestant formularies. After the children had answered, the minister began to put questions to one of them; and then, apparently, to explain the portion to the whole body of children-I was delighted-this is the reasonable, intelligent worship of God; but it is late, and I must wish you adieu for to-night.

I am yours affectionately,

D. W.

arities, more so than I have hitherto observed in other parts. There are thirty or forty clergy in the small canton of Schaffhausen. The attention paid to the catechising of the children, and the preparing them for the Holy Communion, is excellent. We might learn much from the Swiss on this subject. All the children of the canton are obliged to attend and learn their catechism; and there are ministers especially appointed for their instructors. They seem to have no idea of leaving the young, as we too much do in England, in ignorance of the principles of Christianity. Religious education is, in their view, the very first duty they owe their children; and the only foundation of a tranquil, well-ordered, virtuous community. The laws are strict, and the magistrates also exercise a salutary influence over public morals; but I doubt whether spiritual religion, with its holy fruits, is now actually flourishing. The Sacraments are, however, well atBridge-Swiss customs-State of Religion-Profes-tended. In a town of seven thousand souls, there sor-Fall of Rhine-Eglisau-First view of Alps are four or five hundred communicants, at two or -Zurich-Reformers-Inn L'Epee - Antistes three churches (perhaps one thousand five hunHess-Mr. Wilberforce-Zuingle- Documents of Reformation-Clergy-Bible Society-Lavadred or two thousand in all,) communicating once ter's Forgiveness of his Murderer-Aarau-Good or twice a year. Still I fear that all this is too done by an English Clergyman-Basle - M. much of a mere form, and that the chilling theoBlumhardt-Stoves - Fountains-A Divine-logy of Germany has infected the canton. May Tombs of Erasmus and Ecolampadius- Holy God raise up a new spirit of faith and love among Alliance-Council of Basle-Likeness of Eras- them!

LETTER VI.

Zurich, July 18.-Basle, August 1, 1823.

mus.

I did all I could to make the professor understand our views of religion in England; and to encourage him in openly following the doctrines of the Reformation, as the only hope of a revival of true Christianity. It is a delightful thing to be able in any measure to strengthen the hands of a brother in the Gospel. I can do but little; but what I can do, I feel bound not to omit. He spoke to me about the Règlement at Geneva. He expressed himself with great reserve, but evidently regretted that measure. He was very curious to know something about our English universities, and the plan of literary and religious education in them. I satisfied his inquiries, and really felt gratified that I should happen to have about me a list of the officers and heads of colleges in Oxford and Cambridge to present to him. You cannot imagine with what pleasure he re

ZURICH, Monday evening, July 28, 1823. MY DEAR SISTER-Before I quit the subject of Schaffhausen, I must tell you, that this morning we examined a curious model of the bridge over the Rhine here, burnt by the French in 1799. It was built by a common carpenter, with only one pier, over a space of three hundred and sixty-four feet, all of wood; the pathway being suspended under, not placed over, the arches, so that it quivered with the slightest movement of a passenger. I may as well mention also, a few other things which struck us by their novelty during our stay there. We observed a funeral, where the procession consisted of several hundred persons; every friend of a deceased person attending in a mourning robe. The churches, though noble, majestic buildings, are absolutely devoid of ornament, hav-ceived it. ing been stripped to the bare walls. There was a nakedness about them which offended the eye. I prefer the wisdom and moderation of our English Reformers in this, as well as other respects; but the Protestants here are of the Calvinistic, not Lutheran, persuasion. The Catholic pilgrims who visit Einsiedeln and other celebrated places of pilgrimage, walk hand in hand, with bouquets in their hats, singing as they pass the streets: on Saturday thirty-two passed in this way through the town. The Swiss keep unusually good time; beginning the day in summer at three, dining at twelve, and shutting up their shops at seven; and their clocks happen now to be an hour and ten minutes faster than those at Paris. Every youth who chooses may become a soldier to defend the state. We saw a number of little lads exercising this morning. So far as to the customs of the place. Its moral and religious state I endeavored to ascertain from the professor. The Protestant cantons are very strict and firm in their peculi

The

We left Schaffhausen at eight this morning, for Zurich, twenty-five miles. On our road, we stopped again at the fall of the Rhine, and once more admired its unequalled terrors. The Rhine is a continued flood-a torrent, from the dissolved snows, where it springs, till it loses itself in Holland, after a course of seven hundred miles--so that a vessel, when first going down the stream from Switzerland, shoots like an arrow. width of the fall is four hundred and fifty feet; the least depth sixty feet, the greatest eighty. It differs from the Niagara in two respects; in volume of water it is inferior; in majesty it surpasses it. The Niagara is two thousand seven hundred feet wide, and one hundred and fifty-six feet high; but it merely turns suddenly down the fall in a continued stream, as from a lock; whereas the Rhine, with unparalleled fury, dashes from rock to rock, till the spray and foam obscure the view.

At Eglisau, a lovely village on our way, where

riers, ostlers, post-boys, and smells of all kinds, by a dark, narrow passage; for the entire ground floors of the Swiss inns are occupied by this sort of miseries; partly, I suppose, on account of the frequent inundations from melted snow, or overflowing rivers.

we dined, we saw, for the first time, a covered defile through stables, voitures, horsemen, voitubridge, erected in 1811, over the Rhine (the French having burnt the former one ;) you walk over under rafters and beams, windows on each side opening upon the river. It is entirely covered at the top with a roof, and enclosed on the sides, so that you are, as it were, in a house; whilst the rafters, &c. make you think it is the roof a country church. These covered bridges abound in Switzerland.

As we approached Zurich, we caught a first view of the distant Alps, about Zug and Schwitz. The hills first in view were shaded by the afternoon sun; over these, brilliant volumes of clouds were discernible; and from amidst the clouds, the peaks of the Alps were easily distinguished by their defined outlines, sharp summits, and the bright whiteness of the eternal snows with which they are covered. We entered Zurich, the capital of the canton, about five o'clock. I could not but be sensibly affected. This is the first town in Switzerland that separated from the church of Rome three centuries back-it was the favorite asylum of our English Reformers during the vacillating and tyrannical reign of Henry the Eighth, and the bloody persecution of queen Mary. It is supposed to have been the place where our great Cranmer, soon after he had been raised to the primacy, caused the first complete edition of the English Bible, Miles Coverdale's, to be printed, in the year 1535.* The town contains eleven thousand souls; the canton one hundred and eightythree thousand; nearly all Protestant. It is amongst the most thickly peopled tracks of the continent of Europe; which is owing chiefly to the long-continued enjoyment of good government, and to consequent habits of virtuous industry.

Last night we ascended a bastion, near the town, and beheld the magnificent scene of the range of Alps illuminated, or rather gilded, by the setting sun; it was, really, as if all the snows were suddenly set on a blaze, the fiery meteor was so bright and so extensive. As the sun further declined, the magic scene lost its enchantment. It is singular, that this is the first night this summer that the Alps have been thus visible. My friend travelled four years ago in Switzerland, and never saw any thing like it. Indeed, we have been favored all our journey. The weather has been unusually cool, with the exception of a day or two, and we are all now in comfortable health. May we have the additional blessing of a thankful, humble, holy, theachable heart, to see God in every thing, to love God because of every thing, and to be led up towards him by every thing! I should just mention, that on our road to Zurich we crossed a part of Baden, when the same appearance of negligence and misery returned which I before noticed. As soon as we regained the Swiss territory, all was again neat, convenient, industrious, and happy: such is the difference between the effects of civil and religious freedom, and of an arbitrary government.

Zurich, Tuesday, July 29.—I have been introduced, to-day, to the celebrated Antistes Hess; he is eighty-two years old, a venerable, pious, holy man, on the verge of heaven; with a heart full of love to the Saviour, and to the souls of men. I took my three children to him, that he might bless

The beauty of the country accords with its reputation. We are at the inn called L'Epée. Ima-them. The Antistes spoke to me much of Mr. gine a room fifty feet by thirty, of which two Wilberforce, whose book he had read with delight: sides are a continued window, overhanging the he begged me to convey to him his Christian rebroad deep-blue torrent of the Limmat, which, gards: it was delightful to me to see this aged rushing like an arrow from the lake of Zurich, disciple. He is one of the persons whom I was seems hurrying to pour itself into the Rhine. most anxious to know. You are perhaps aware, The old wooden bridge which leads across it is that Antistes is a Latin word, meaning nearly immediately before me, and is wide enough for the the same as President. It is a title often given in market, which is just now in amusing confusion, ecclesiastical writers to bishops, though sometimes and presents a most characteristic scene of Swiss to simple priests. In the Swiss Reformed churches, costume and manners. The noble churches, it is applied to the ecclesiastical head of a canton. quays, and public buildings on the other side of the The government of these churches, though not river diversify the prospect. In the distance on episcopal, differs considerably from what is called my right a second bridge appears, with a tower Presbyterianism. I met at the house of the Anbuilt in the midst of the torrent for state-prisoners tistes, an aged magistrate of this place, who com-whilst still further on, my eye is lost in follow-mended to me the cause of Switzerland, and beging the beautiful lake itself, till I discern at length the Alps rearing their majestic heads beyond it in the utmost horizon.-Such is the room where I am writing this letter; I suppose it is one of the most beautiful in the world. It is curious, that in order to reach this splendid chamber you have to

The New Testament had first been published by Tyndale about 1526: the Pentateuch appeared in 1530; Miles Coverdale completed the arduous task under the auspices of Cranmer, in 1535. This Bible is in a folio volume, printed in double columns, in what Mr. Dibdin terms, a foreign secretary-gothic type. It was executed, as it is generally thought, at the press of a Zurich printer.

ged of me again and again to represent to my countrymen the state of his canton; pressing on me that Switzerland had been the cradle of the Reformation.

We next visited, with much pleasure, the city library, abounding in original unpublished letters of our Reformers. The history of that interesting period, after all Burnet has done, might, undoubtedly, be much enriched from these stores. Such an undertaking would require great zeal, discretion, knowledge of ecclesiastical history, and, above all, a commanding and pious mind; but its success would

be sure.

We saw the three well-known Letters of Lady Jane Gray, written to Bullinger, in 1551.