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mult of human passions and conflicts! The peace - God and man. I have hitherto had chiefly to tell ful Gospel of Christ is the only remedy for a dis- you of Catholic superstitions—but, alas! the name tracted sinful world.
of Protestantism, what is it? All is here as bad, At Hirtzenach, a village near St. Goar, we or worse than in Popish towns, with a criminality halted at a small inn, where the master was a Jew, infinitely deeper. I speak of the impression made who refused to give us plates and knives, &c. be- on a traveller. Doubtless there are many sercause we were Christians; and looked anxiously vants of God who are keeping holy the sacred day into our tin boxes, to see what food we had with in the retirement of their families. But Gand,
The first article was part of a ham. How- Namur, and Bergheim--Catholic towns—had a ever, with unaccountable inconsistency, he went far more devout aspect than Protestant Weisbaden. to a neighboring house, fetched all we wanted, Monday, July 14.--At Mentz, where we spent and placed them before us. I read to him from some hours on Saturday, we observed a visible his Hebrew Bible some prophecies of the Messiah, decay in the cathedral ; it was nearly burnt down which he seemned very little to understand, and in the revolution, and the riches plundered; the still less to take any interest in. Last night our marks of the bombs are still apparent on many supper here (St. Goar) was curious ; first, soup, parts. Indeed, generally we remark, that Popery, something worse than water-gruel ; next, boiled ihough still formidable in so many respects, is on veal; then chicken, stuffed with bread pudding, the decline where the French have ruled, as to its and accompanied with cherry sauce and salad; power, wealth, tyranny, and influence. The then cold salmon, cut in slices ; next, roast mut- Archbishopric of Mentz was suppressed in 1802. ton ; lastly, cakes and cherries. We are now in It is still a Bishop's see; but has long been vathe heart of the wine country. The finest white cant. Perhaps all is preparing for the revival and wine is here exactly thirteen pence (twenty-six prevalence of pure Christianity once more. The sous) the bottle ; and for large bottles, twenty city of Mentz is a fine one, with astonishing fortipence (forty sous).
fications; but the churches were much injured Bingen, Friday evening, July 11.–We have during the war, and the marks of the shells thrown now quitted Prussian Germany, and entered the into it at the siege, remain. We were in the Grand Duchy of Hesse Darmstadt. We are four same room at the Three Crowns, as the Duke of hundred and seventy-seven miles from Calais.- Wellington and all our Princes occupied, in passWe spent this morning in taking a second excur- ing through the town. It has thirty thousand sion on the Rhine, at St. Goar, for three hours, inhabitants, and a fine bridge of boats over the where new beauties continually presented them- Rhine. selves. At half-past twelve we dined at the Ta I should have told you that we were much anble d'Hôte, and at two came on seventeen miles noyed at Weisbaden with a loquacious, forward to this town, Bingen, of four thousand souls. It young man, who happened to sit near us at the stands on the confluence of the Rhine and the Table d'Hôte. His officiousness quite perplexed Nahe. The waters of the Rhine, being here con We had the utmost difficulty to elude his pryfined by shelving rocks, form a narrow strait.— ing questions. He talked too much to be a spy ; The road to it was actually one garden for sweet- but his pertinacious recommendation of an inn at ness, whilst its rude, magnificent scenery sustain. Franckfort betrayed his secret. He must have ed an awful grandeur all around. We arrived at been a man sent round to the watering-places to six, and have been taking, for the first time, a collect guests for particular hotels. Really one walk in a vineyard; it belongs to a gentleman of cannot be too much on one's guard abroad. Bingen, and covers about five acres, on a lovely Franckfort on the Maine, 522 miles from Calais, hill, commanding beautiful views of the Nahe and Monday evening.–We arrived here to-day at one the Rhine ; and on the summit presenting the o'clock. Many things concur to render this one ruins of a Roman castle. These five acres yield of the most interesting places we have visited.nearly seven pipes of wine, of one thousand two It is a free city, with its own domain, burgomaster, hundred bottles each, selling in retail at about senate, and laws—fifty thousand souls--perhaps thirteen pence the bottle. As we returned to our the first commercial city in Germany-fine wide inn, at half-past eight, we stepped into the church, streets large and noble private and public build. the religious gloom of which, just as the evening ings all about-eyery appearance of wealth and was coming on, was inimitably fine. Adieu. activity. We had here the pleasure of meeting,
Weisbaden, in the Duchy of Nassau, Sunday, for the first time since we left home, with English July 13, 1823.—This is our fourth Sunday since papers, a sure indication of a free state. Indeed, we left London.
We hoped to have reached every thing breathes that spirit of liberty, that Franckfort yesterday, but the horses could take cheerfulness, that prosperity, which make this us no farther than this German watering-place, town one of the most noble spots on the Continent. so celebrated for its hot baths. We have had our French, Swiss, Italians, Turks, English, all asprivate service twice, but could find only German semble in it for the purposes of commerce.
It is Protestants for public worship. We are now in a Protestant city; at least three-fourths of the the dominions of a Protestant prince; but what a inhabitants are Protestants. An entire equality is state of things for a Sunday! The shops all open afforded to all the different confessions of Chris-a ball at our inn this evening_music at dinner tians. It has seven thousand Jews, and many of -public places crowded—the whole village in them very opulent. The French Protestant Midisorder-not an appearance of devotion! This nister is a delightful man-pious, discreet, amia. blotting out, as it were, of the Sabbath from the ble, well informed. He has been with us several days of the week, is quite frightful—it is like the hours this afternoon. The police is excellently blotting out of the covenant of mercy between managed. Vice and wickedness are discounte
nanced. The public places of amusement are long war have been the means of checking this few, and no suspicious females permitted to fre- incursion of infidel principles, and of bringing men quent them. What a contrast does this last point back to that pure doctrine of the Gospel which form with the disgusting indecency of our London only can give peace and consolation. It is a retheatres! There is here a Bible Society, and a markable fact, that such has been the decay of Jews' Conversion Society.
all Scriptural truth amongst the Protestants, that In the public library is a copy of the edition of many of the Roman Catholics have surpassed them the Latin Vulgate Bible, printed upon vellum in in real piety. The light has shone brightest in 1462, by Fust and Schoiffher at Mentz. It is the the Catholic parishes. Those who were concernfirst edition of the Bible with a printed date, and ed for their souls, and panted for the doctrine of is an extraordinary effort of the art in its earliest pardon, found some relief at least, in the disday. The first Bible indeed ever printed, was courses of the priests. So true is it that superbegun at Mentz in 1450, and published in 1455 or stition, bad as it is, may consist with the life of 1456. It is called the Mazarine Bible, from hav- God in the heart, but that a proud infidel philosoing been in the library of the celebrated cardinal phy cannot. The one overloads and encumbers of that name; and is not only the first edition of the foundation; the other digs it up, and destroys the sacred text in any language, but the very first it altogether. book printed with metal types. The beauty and re But to return to my narrative. We arrived gularity of the press-work are highly extolled by Mr. safely at Darmstadt, the capital of the grand duchy Dibdin, who speaks of it as a master-piece of skill. of that name, at twelve to-day. I hastened to the I cannot but dwell with delight on the first suc- house of Leander Van Ess, with whom I had cesses of the noble invention of printing, in circu- been sometime in correspondence in England; he lating the Bible, and thus paying the way for the had left the town in the inorning early to go to Reformation in the following century.
Cologne, and would not return for a week! А There are no foreign troops at Franckfort. I greater disappointment I scarcely ever felt. I saw, should tell you, that at Mentz there are seven however, the study of this excellent man; I sat thousand troops, half Prussian and half Austrian ; in his chair; I visited his collection of Bibles; I whilst the duke of Hesse Darmstadt, to whom the conversed with his secretary. Leander Van Ess town helongs, has only one hundred men to keep was fifty-one the eighteenth of last month. He the police. I learnt here some particulars of the has left the University of Marburg, where he was conversion of the Catholic priest whom I men- professor, and lives now under the Protestant tioned in my last letter.* He lived near Pforz- grand duke of Hesse Darmstadt. He has had a heim, and became impressed with the truths of spitting of blood for four years, which prevents his real Christianity by reading the Scriptures. He preaching; but he gives himself up to the propathen began to “preach Christ crucified.” The lord gation of the Gospel, though he remains a Cathoof the vilage and forty-four families, containing be- lic priest. He has printed fourteen editions of his tween two hundred and three hundred souls, were New Testament; each of an immense number of gradually awakened by God's mercy. The priest copies. He has circulated altogether four hunwas summoned before his superiors for preaching dred and ninety-four thousand eight hundred and against the Popish ceremonies. At length he and sixty. No funds but those of an institution like at his flock publicly renounced the church of the noble British and Foreign Bible Society, could Rome. The duke of Baden heard of him, and have supported the expense of printing such an went to one of his sermons. He was so much incredible number: and the liberality and wisdom affected, that he declared he had seldom heard so with which that society assists in publishing edifying a discourse. He invited the priest to Catholic translations of the Scriptures, cannot be Carlsruh. There is another priest, I am told, near too highly praised. Versions by far inferior were Valenciennes, who has followed the same course. the chief means of effecting the glorious ReforMay God multiply the number, and a second re-mation. I do not speak of the Apocryphal books, formation will soon begin.
because the reading of them is admitted to be Oppenheim, between Darmstadt and Heidelberg, useful by Protestants. The desire for the ScripWednesday evening, July 16.—I had much con- tures among the Catholics at the present time, versation with my friend the French minister, be- priests as well as laty, is greater and greater. fore we left Franckfort this morning. I was also Sometimes Van Ess circulates seven thousand in introduced to one of the senators, an excellent a single month. Lately, a priest in one parish man, president of the Bible Society. A human sent for two thousand New Testaments—the parphilosophy applied rashly and presumptuously to ish is in the Schwarzwald, or Black Forest. religion, is the poison of German divinity among The secretary presented me with his picture, the Protestants :-endless refinements, imagina- and a copy of his New Testament. What a tions, corruptions of faith, tending to skepticisin or blessing is such a person! what cannot the grace atheism. Things are mending, but it is incredible of God do in the most corrupt church ! how chariwhat daring impieties are currently received. The table should we be in our judgment of individuals! first genius of their country, Göthe, a native of This admirable man, though he calls himself a Franckfort, is an absolute idolater of what he calls Catholic, has almost the spirit of a Reformer. He le beau, in Christianity, in Mahomedanism, in in- dwells on nothing but the great and necessary fidelity, in every thing. Thus unbeliet stands more doctrines of Christianity. It is impossible to read fatally opposed to the faith of Christ than even his correspondence without perceiving a strength superstition. The calamities, however, of the late and clearness of judgment, an independence of
principle, a love of truth, a superiority to the prePage 48, supra.
judices of education, a zeal in the diffusion of the
Gospel, a disregard of personal sufferings, a hardy most charitable. It was delightful to converse appeal to the first fathers of the church, and a with a man so well instructed in the great truths readiness to act with Protestant societies, which of salvation. I called on him at his own house in are quite surprising. Above all, there is a firm- the evening. He was very diligent in inquiring ness and undauntedness in all he does, which re- after the real state of spiritual religion in Engminds us at times of Martin Luther. Let us pray land. I see plainly that my beloved country is that many, many such Catholic professors may be looked up to as the glory of the Reformation, and raised up in every part of the continent, and " the the hope of the nations of the continent. The traditions of men" will fall of themselves. university is open to Catholics and Protestants
I can hardly persuade myself to turn from this six hundred and fifty members. It is the oldest subject to say, that Darmstadt is a flourishing university in Germany, having been founded in town; with all the marks of that activity and 1382. The valuable library which had been prcprosperity which, as at Franckfort, distinguishes sented to the Pope, when the town was taken by a free from an oppressed population. We came the Bavarians in 1622, and deposited in the Va. on to Oppenheim, twenty miles, (five hundred and tican, was restored in 1815. The grand duke is sixty from Calais,) this afternoon. The village is a Protestant; and full liberty of worship is enobscure, though populous. The country is pleas- joyed. There is here a Bible Society; and reliing. The peasants are without shoes and stock- gion seems, on the whole, flourishing. ings. The men wear large hats like our English It was in this place that Melancthon began his dignitaries-what we call shovel-hats; the asso- studies; that Luther came on foot from Worms, ciation in our mind is very humorous. But the and disputed with the Augustins, in 1518; and storks’-nests are most curious ; these enormous that the famous Heidelberg catechism was afterbirds are in almost every village; they build on wards published. I speak of this catechism with the steeples of churches, or the top of a chimney, a peculiar pleasure, because it has been familiar with a large nest like a basket, stretching over on to me from early youth. It was reprinted about all sides. They are never disturbed, much less twenty years back by the university of Oxford in killed. They are superstitiously reverenced. The the Sylloge Confessionum. I confess my mind people think the house will never be burnt where lingers on these continental towns, where the noa stork builds. The stork feeds on insects, frogs, ble army of reformers laid the foundation of all mice, &c., and never injures the corn. To see the religious blessings which we now enjoy. these enormous birds, half as tall as a man, strut Manheim, Friday, July 18.– This is a beautiting about on the top of a house, as if on stilts, is ful city, first founded in 1606, as a refuge for the very strange to us.
persecuted Protestants of the Netherlands. It was Heidelberg, in the Grand Duchy of Baden, Fri- entirely destroyed by Louis XIV. in 1689; 50 day morning, July 18.-We arrived here yester- that the present city is a new one, of twenty day, at eleven o'clock. The town is beautifully thousand souls, half Protestants and half Cathosituated on the Neckar, fifteen miles from Oppen- lics; the streets are regularly laid out in one heim. The chief attraction is the ancient elec- hundred and twelve squares. It is situated on toral castle, which Louis XIV. laid in ruins at the the confluence of the Rhine and the Neckar, and close of the seventeenth century, in his ambitious is considered the finest town in Germany: The war against the Palatinate. The remaining walls old palace of the grand duke of Baden is very were much injured by lightning sixty years back. spacious, but dilapidated : it is something like our It is still perhaps the most magnificent ruin in palace at Hampton Court. One of the most cuGermany. The keep and outward wall of the rious things at Manheim is the flying bridge platform are entire; and a beautiful semicircular across the Rhine. It is difficult to give a clear walk runs through a plantation adjoining. It is idea of it. But it seems formed of six or seven situated on the side of a fine mountain, the base boats fastened together at such a distance from and summit of which are ornamented with hang- each other, as to extend in a slanting direction ing woods. Before it, the Neckar, the bridge, over half of the river. The extreme boat at one the town, the adjoining hill covered with vines, end of this series is fixed firm in the middle of the distant Rhine, and the Vosges mountains, are the river by an anchor : the extreme boat at the stretched as in perspective. The extreme steep- other end reaches the shore, and is fastened to it. ness of the mountain on which it stands, allows When any one wishes to cross the river, he enof those sudden turns of scenery in the gardens ters this last boat, which is then loosened and and pleasure-grounds surro
rrounding the castle, of carried by the stream to the opposite shore; the which nothing else can admit. In short, the fixed boat preserving it from being carried down whole thing is the noblest of the kind we ever the current. The direction which the flying saw; we spent five hours in admiring it. bridge takes, is like that of the pendulum of a
A venerable professor of the university con- clock. ducted us; but the difficulty of finding a common We slept last night at Schwetzingen, celelanguage was extreme. We attempted a mixture brated for a pleasure garden of the duke of Baden, of French, English, and Latin ; but at last Latin of one hundred and eighty acres, laid out in the was our only language. It would have amused French and English manner. The most sumpyou to see my college friend and myself brushing tuous building in it was a mosque, resembling that up our old Latin, and adapting our pronunciation at Mecca, the walls of which have inscriptions as well as we could to the German—and this from the Koran, with translations in German; after dinner-overcome with heat-and mounting the whole must have cost an immense sum. Notup a tremendous hill. The sentiments of the pro- withstanding this magnificence, the approach fessor were evangelical, and his temper and spirit from the village is shabby, from the utter neglect
of cleanliness in the court of the château itself,
LETTER V. by which you enter ; grass grows on the pavements, and the château is much dilapidated. In Rastadt, July 20.-Shaffhausen, July 27, 1823, deed, an unseemly union of finery and untidiness Union of Lutherans and Calvinists--Pastor Henmarks many of these foreign palaces. The pa
höfer — Importance of Gospel - RastadıUlmlace at Manheim is larger than any English one, Kehl-Strasburg–Cathedral-Letters of Reformbut almost in ruins from inattention : kings and - Emmendingen -- Manner of Travelling, dukes aim here at more than they can support. Food-Hoellenthal - Bad Inn - Black Foresi The real dignity of a prince is the prosperity of Donaueschingen-Danube--Mr. Canning-Swithis subjects. A free state, where education and
zerland - Schaffhausen - Innkeeper – Fall of morals are duly cultivated, and the pure Gospel of
Rhine-Swiss Sunday. Christ is preached, needs no gaudy and half-finished trappings to adorn it.
CARLSRUH, July 20, 1823,
Sunday afternoon. Carlsruh, Saturday, July 19.-We arrived here to-day, after a journey of thirty-one miles. We This is the fifth silent Sunday, my dearest sister, are now 624 from Calais. This is a beautiful which we have spent since we left England. The town, which has sprung up about the ducal pa- town is chiefly Protestant, but German is the only lace of Baden, around which all the streets unite language. I went this morning and spoke to the like rays of the sun. The weather is fine, and Lutheran minister, after church, but it was with sometimes rather cold; the roads generally ex- the utmost difficulty we could understand each cellent; the inns vary in accommodations. The other, as he spoke neither French nor Latin; the diet is strange to us, and unfavorable to health ; church was well attended, and is a most beautiful the bread often sour, and the meat indifferent. edifice, built by the grand Duke of Baden, and is But still, we are all well; and can we be grateful some evidence, I hope of the increased regard paid enough to the divine hand which sustains us con- to religion here. I could neither understand the tinually and scatters so many blessings upon our prayers nor the sermon—a good knowledge of path! During a foreign tour, the recollections of German and Italian is almost as essential as that what we owe to our heavenly Father daily, are of French, to a tour on the continent. much more lively and affecting than they are at
The Lutheran and Calvinistic churches, after home. We perceive more his constant care in three centuries of division, have at length begun the new and untried scenes through which we to unite. I hope this is another token for good. pass. The reflections also which are suggested The dispute about consubstantiation will now no by the comparison of our institutions and habits, longer be the reproach of the Protestant cominu. in England with those of other countries, would nities. Few things did more harm to the infant touch our hearts even more than they do, if we cause of the Reformation than this sacramentarian were inore under the teaching and grace of the controversy—there was so much of heat, asperity, Holy Spirit. A Saturday evening abroad brings violence, mingled with it—and this upon a point a crowd of thoughts into the mind—but I must where most of the parties meant nearly the same; conclude.*
and which, after all, was not a fundamental one. Your affectionate
On no occasion, perhaps, did the great Luther so
far forget himself. The warmth of controversialists D. W.
is generally in an inverse ratio to the real import
ance of the question in debate. Love is the key * I cannot but add here an expression of regret to truth as well as holiness. upon a subject alluded to in the above letter. The
I learn here, that the name of the converted Apocryphal question, by the heat and irritation attendant upon it, has gone further to chill the spirit of priest whom I have mentioned to you before, is unity and love at home, and the zeal and success of Henhöfer, and the place where he now lives, such distinguished individuals as Leander Van Graben, near this town; his former abode was Ess abroad, ihan any thing that has occurred during Mullhausen. We observe that the Catholic church. the last 30 years. Thank God, the public mind is es in Protestant towns, are far more simple, and returning to a sounder state on a point, which, con- less superstitious, than in other places. Here and sidering the avowed non-inspiration of the Apocry- at Franckfort, there are scarcely any altars or phal books, on the part of the Protestant bodies, and images in fact, the Catholic church in this town the implied admission of the same fact by the Ro- is less ornamented than the Lutheran—but this is man Catholic writers of all classes, has been exag- an inferior point-I perceive more and more that gerated beyond all reasonable limits, and bas in the main blessing wanted in every place is the truth created more of evil in a few months, by calling public attention to those neglected books, than grace of the Holy Spirit of God. I am sure we the books themselves had probably occasioned in have little idea in England of the state of things three centuries. As the Reformers directed these abroad. We amazingly overstate the comparative ancient, and in some parts instructive writings, to amount of good effected by our societies ;-the be publicly read in churches, there surely was no world is still “dead in trespasses and sins,"'-vast reason for the clamor raised against the Bible So-tracts of barren Protestantism, or untilled and fruitciety for allowing them to occupy the same position less Popery, stretch all around us. May that hea---or, if the utter removal of these works was judged venly dew descend which only can soften, penetrate, desirable, there was still less reason for accompany and sanctify the soil! The value of our religious ing the act with severity and suspicions. If the advantages in England is more than ever impressed Apocrypha was injurious, the whole Protestant church, with Luther at its head, and not the British on my mind. A Sunday at home, what a blessing! and Foreign Bible Society, were to blame.-March,
The importance also of the Holy Scriptures, and of dwelling on the plain, practical, necessary truths
of the Gospel, strikes me in a most forcible manner. France. We spent about six hours there. It is a I see that all languishes and fades as the Gospel city of fifty or sixty thousand souls, haif Protestants
is forgotten or unknown. This is God's great re- and half Čatholics. It has been part of France Imedy for fallen man; and nothing else will touch since the middle of the seventeenth century; but
and change the heart. Men's devices, controversy, the manners of the people, their dress, their food,
cold statements of truth, superstition, enthusiasm, their employments, their taste, all are German. i have no efficacy to save man. The doctrine of a The difference between them and the inhabitants
crucified Saviour, delivered in simple dependance of France is quite striking. The fortifications have on the grace of the Holy Ghost, is the power of been newly increased and strengthened. It was God and the wisdom of God unto salvation ” now, the Argentoratum of the Romans, and abounds as it has been in every age.
with Roman antiquities; for instance, there is a Rastadt, 17 miles from Carlsruh, Monday July mile stone and other memorials of the reign of the 21, eleren o'clock.- We have just arrived here for emperor Trajan. our morning stage. The heat has been intense ; The cathedral is one of the very finest in Chris20 degrees, I should think, higher than on Satur- tendom: it was founded in 510. The tower is four day. Carlsruh, which we have just left, is a neat, hundred and seventy_feet; forty-six feet higher beautiful town of fourteen thousand souls, founded than St. Peter's at Rome ;* it is said to be the as late as 1715. From the palace as a centre, loftiest building in the world after the pyramids thirty-two lines are drawn on all sides; twenty or of Egypt. It is a masterpiece of architecture, more of these are walks in the forest, and gardens being built of hewn stone, cut with such delicacy behind it; and the rest streets, composing the town; as to give it some resemblance to lace. As you so that from the tower of the palace you command ascend, one half of what, in other towers, are the whole circle. Dukes here do as they please; walls, is here open work, with single iron crosstowns must be built as objects; but I prefer our bars; the ascent is rather fearful; but the view English freedom, though our cities are somewhat of the Rhine, of the Ill, and the Brensch, (rivers irregular. Rastadt, where we dine, is a town of here falling into it,) of the city, and all the surthree thousand souls, on the river Murg, celebrated rounding country, is most beautiful. The day was for the congress between France and the empire very wet, so that we could not reach the extreme in 1798; when two of the French envoys were summit
. The entrances of the cathedral are parmurdered on their journey to Strasburg. There ticularly fine from the excellent preservation of is a magnificent old chateau, in which we saw a the rich stone-work with which they are adorned; most interesting portrait of Melancthon, and a the figures ornamenting in groups every part
, large engraved head of the first William Pitt in are still perfect, and have a striking effect-in 1766.
short, we could not satisfy ourselves in beholding The people in this part of the duchy are poor, this monument of the arts, which combines the few manufactures little public spirit; in other most elegant symmetry of parts with the most en. words, Little liberty. The Duke takes more care tire solidity and the greatest magnificence. of his palace than of his people. The duchess. We visited St. Thomas's, a noble Protestant dowager is an adopted child, or a niece, of Bona- church, fine, simple, majestic. A monument in parte. Presents from Bonaparte abound in the white marble, to the memory of Marshal Saxe, palace; especially, we noticed a tea-service of adorns one end of the nave. We saw two bodies superb china, with coffee-run, &c. of soild gold. of the families of the counts of Nassau, preserved The dress of the peasants here continues the same, many centuries, and placed in coffins with glass except that the women wear amazingly large straw at the top; one female, one man; each in full bonnets, flapping down before and behind-chil- dress, the woman most gayly attired; the rings of dren of four years old, and women reaping, have pearl too large for the withered fingers; the face these enormous umbrella bonnets. The houses all in powder, falling on the bones of the skull; bere are built with two or three jutting shades or the whole an affecting lesson of mortality, and of roofs over each row of windows, forined of tiles, the inefficacy of all attempts to hide the deformity and have a very singular appearance.
of death by a splendor, which only increases it by Ulm, thirteen miles from Rastadt, Monday even contrast. Nature shudders at dissolution; the ing.--This is a small village on our way to Kehl. real victory over death is by faith in the triumphThe thermometer, at six this afternoon, was 830 in / ant and risen Saviour. the shade; on Saturday, it was 55° or thereabouts; There are ten other churches in the city. We for we were glad to put on cloaks and great coats. visited the royal palace, the cabinet of natural We have come thirty miles to-day, and travelled history, the museum, and the library. This last seven hours. Ulm is only a mile from the Rhine. pleased me exceedingly—one hundred and fifty The Black Forest stretches like an amphitheatre thousand volumes; MSS. of the New Testament, behind us, from Heidelberg to Basle. The coun- and of the classics, of the ninth and tenth centutry is flat, and withont vines ; but abounds in ries; early editions, &c. What most gratified corn and fruits. It produces a good deal of to- me was a collection of MS. letters of Luther, Mebacco.
lancthon, Bucer, and the other Reformers. I Kehl, on the Rhine, Tuesday evening, July 22d. could not but gaze with veneration on the very -We came here this morning, seventeen miles, hand-writing of these holy men, into whose labors in order to pass the Rhine, and visit Strasburg, we have entered. The hand-writing of our queen We crossed by a bridge of boats of the extraordi- Elizabeth was not half so interesting to me. In nary length of 3900 feet. The old wooden bridge is half destroyed. We did not take the carriages, * St. Peter's is 424 feet high ; St. Paul's at Lonbecause of duties, searchings, &c. on enterir: I don 340.