« AnteriorContinuar »
our second domestic service. How I pity these cumstance, that the Duke of Marlborough, a hun Catholics, brought up to worship, not the God dred years before, had fixed on the same plains and Father of all, but the Virgin Mary and the for giving battle to the French army, and was only Saints !--Farewell.
withheld from engaging by the timidity of the Namur, Monday morning.–We are now going Dutch Deputies. off for Liege; we hope to be at Spa on Wednes We reached Namur at nine, after a journey on day; at Aix la Chapelle, Thursday; Cologne on pavé of forty-four miles. It is a strongly fortified the Rhine (where the pavé ends,) Saturday. At place, celebrated for the long sieges which it susBrussels, we engaged with a Swiss voiturier, who tained at the close of the last century but one; had come here with four horses from Rome, to and, like all frontier towns, has been the perpetual conduct us to Berne. We left Brussels at nine scene of bloodshed and misery. Forty thousand on Saturday, and at eleven were on the field of soldiers were quartered here in 1815 under GrouWaterloo. The small village church contains chy. It stands on the confluence of the Sambre twenty-two monuments of English officers who and the Meuse or Maese; behind it a fine mounfell on that memorable spot, with suitable inscrip- tain rises adorned with hanging wood, and crowntions—a most atlecting sight. In an adjoining ed with tremendous fortifications. It forms the plot is the burial ground of four hundred of our back ground of the picture. The walk by the brave soldiers. His Majesty the King of Eng- river side is exquisite. land was most minute in his inquiries, when he was here two years back. He even visited the have been four hours and a half coming to this
Huy, Twelve o'clock, Monday, June 30.—We garden where Lord Anglesey's leg was interred. beautiful town. The road has been by the side The field of Waterloo itself is covered with corn; of the Meuse, seventeen miles. The hanging but the hedge leading to Ohain, the farm of Haie woods, the rocks, the villages, the windings of the Sainte, Huguemont, Planchenoir, &c. remain.— river, the ruined castles, and a road of fine smooth The spot where the last attack was made on the earth, not pavé, formed one of the most striking English by the Imperial Guard, is marked by a and beautiful drives I have ever taken. The pillar, and also that where General Gordon fell . cliffs and woods, in some places, were sublime.
– The Wellington tree was brought to England two The rain of yesterday had laid the dust, and bright . years ago, and is at the British Museum.
ened the verdure on the face of nature. The pe. Jean Baptiste de Coster, Bonaparte's guide, culiar feature was the trees and woods, inter
We took great pains in distinguishing spersed amongst the rude rocks in the most pichim from a multitude of impostors who deceive the turesque manner. At this place we ascended the unwary, by claiming his name. He is an elderly fortress, which Lord Wellington, as we were told, man, full of enthusiasm in his description of the has been six years directing several thousand men battle. We spent an hour with him on this fear- to construct, and which is considered to be imful scene of England's glory. He led us to the pregnable. The walls are in some places ten or very spot where the hottest part of the battle took eleven feet thick. place. It is impossible to give you any idea of the horrors which he described. The mind shud- night, the road continuing equally beautiful; but
Liege, Tuesday, July 1.-We arrived here last ders at the thoughts of the sufferings of our brave the heat of the day, especially in the morning, men, and of the wide-spread desolations of that
was very great, and we find ourselves a good deal terrific day. Even now the corn displays a rank fatigued. To-day is the post, and therefore I luxuriance on the ensanguined field. The bones close this letter. I found no letters from England of the dead are dug up by the rude hand of the at Brussels, but hope to receive some at Cologne. laborer.* The marks of the balls may still be We are all well. traced on many of the trees, and relics of the
I am, &c. spoils are offered you at every turn. What a de
D. W. hiverance for Europe was wrought on those plains! What praises do we owe to God for the security,
P. S. We have underrated the distance we happiness, and power which were all achieved or have travelled; the leagues are two miles and confirmed to Britain by that mighty conquest.
Really, when one reflects on the character of three quarters English; so that we have now Bonaparte, on his prodigious successes, on his gone about two hundred and seventy-five miles
from Calais. confessed skill as a general, on his prodigality of
We have two coachmen, and two human life, on the efforts which he then made, contains nothing very remarkable. It stands in a
beautiful white horses to each carriage. Liege and on the possible consequences of his gaining the field, one's heart swells with gratitude and picturesque spot on the side of a hill; a kmall thanksgiving to the God of battles, who fortified river banked with stone walls, runs through it; the breast of our noble commander during the and the gardens coming down to the river, are fearful struggle, and crowned him with the most beautiful ; a promenade, with trees, affords a deimportant victory which the annals of history, an- the sides of the mountains, for the first time, co
lightful walk all around. In coming here we saw cient or modern, can boast. It is a curious cir
vered with vineyards. We had occasion to call * Scilicet et tempus veniet, cum finibus illis
on a clockmaker in the Great Square. He seemAgricola, incurvo terram molitus aratro,
ed an acute, sensible man. A deeply fixed disExesa inveniet scabra rubigine pila,
content was apparent, notwithstanding his atAut gravibus rastris galeas pulsabit inanes,
tempts to conceal it. The recollection of BonaGrandiaque effossis mirabitur ossa sepulchris. parte was vivid in his mind. So we find it every
Virg. Georg. I. 493. where almost.
sulphur. Their flavor very little differs from that
of common water, except that they have a taste Spa, July 1.-Coblentz, July 10, 1823. of iron. The water from the Pouhon spring is
the strongest, and is exported to almost every Road to Spa-Verviers-Aix la Chapelle--Charle- part of the world. The place has fallen off since magne-Relics-King of England-Juliers-St. | the last war, and is now apparently going to decay. Austin-Sunday at Bergheim-Cologne-St. Ur- The German bathing-towns are superseding it. sula—Tomb of Magi--Bonn- University of Ca- We shall stay here over tomorrow probably: tholics and Protestants—The Rhine-Drachens
Little did I think I should ever spend a birthfels - Remagen -- Andernach-Coblentz-Timber-float-Spy.
day at Spa; but so it is. I am forty-five to-day.
With how many mercies surrounded; with how Spa, Tuesday, July 1, 1823.
much to lament in myself! Time how swift ! MY DEAR SISTER—We have safely arrived at This world how vain, how unsatisfying! May the this beautiful spot—a romantic watering place, well salutary springs of this place lead me to recollect known by fame to you and every one else, for its min- and to thirst more ardently for that fountain of eral springs. The road from Liege is mountainous, " living waters, which springeth up unto everlastand in many places highly picturesque; and as we ing life !" approached Spa, we travelled along a deep hollow Aix La Chapelle, Saturday, July 5.—We left with lofty cliffs on each side of us covered with Spa on Thursday after dinner, and came by a dehanging woods. Below the road ran a small but lightful road to Verviers, a town, eleven miles disrapid river, winding along the valley, which hav- tant, remarkable for a small river, the waters of mg been swollen by the recent rains, was inimita- which are used in dying clothes. The town is bly beautiful. On our road, we stopped an hour situated in a valley; a promenade made half way at a small inn, in the chamber of which I found a up on one side of a hill commands the place, and sort of chapel, dressed up with a crucifix, and affords an exquisite prospect. The town is bemany superstitious ornaments: underneath, how- fore you, overtopped by the green hills behind it; ever, was a copy of verses so pious, that I tran- between the town and the foot of the hill are the scribed them, and send them for your benefit. I gardens of the houses in the main street, running think them admirable: possibly they may be an down to the river, over which bridges are thrown, extract from Corneille's Translation of Thomas à that add much to the whole effect. The number Kempis.
of inhabitants is about ten thousand. We saw a
multitude of persons in the evening kneeling down La Sainte Volonté de Dieu; la Folie de la Croix ;
on the outside of one of the church doors, uttering ou, Maximes de la Sagesse Evangélique. miserable cries before the image of a saint. We Domptez vos passions, faites-vous violence : are now come to German servants, and find our
French of little use to us.
On Friday morning, at seven o'clock, we came
to Aix, twenty-five miles; here we enter the doJugez de tous au bien, soyez affable à tous;
minions of the king of Prussia. This city is asNe vous prévalez pas du mal que font les autres ; sociated with every thing grand in modern Eu. Excusez leur defauts, humiliez vous des vôtres.
rope. The peace of 1748 was signed here; and Détournez votre esprit des objets curieux; at the Hotel de Ville is an immense picture of all Ménagez vos momens, car ils sont précieux. the ambassadors who were present on that occaEvitez avec soin l'amitié trop humaine ; sion : unfortunately they are not portraits. А Elle trouble le cæur, et ne produit que peine.
tower of this building was erected by the Romans. Obeissez gaiment, ne murmurez jamais;
The baths of hot sulphureous water, of the heat Votre âme jouira d'une solide paix.
of one hundred and forty-three degrees of Fahren
heit, Que cette paix seroit durable et salutaire;
the town the name of Aix, a corruption gave
from aquæ, waters. The cathedral was built by Si l'on n'avoit le cæur qu'à son unique affaire.
Charlemagne in 804, and yet preserves his throne Et si l'on savoit bien graver dans l'esprit ; of white marble, in which thirty-six emperors of Que le monde n'est rien, si l'on n'a Jesus Christ. Germany have been crowned. Over his tomb is
a plain stone with this simple inscription, Carolo Heureux qui prend le temps comme Dieu le lui
The pulpit is not remarkable for its architecture; Des biens, des maux présens, sait faire son profit; but around the sounding-board are these words, Et qui pour l'avenir au Seigneur s'abandonne, “ But we preach Christ.” Alas! the fact is, they Disant, content de tout, Dieu le veut, il suffit. now preach the Virgin Mary; before whose im
age we saw, what may be seen every day, a perSpa, Wednesday, July 2.-We have had a son kneeling with uplifted hands in prayer. The beautiful day. This village is surrounded with relics of this church are enchased in immense the finest rides and walks imaginable. The wa-shrines of silver gilt, set with precious stones. A ters were known to the Romans, and are men- priest gravely showed us a nail and several pieces tioned by Pliny. They were in repute through of the wood of the cross; the sponge, in which out Europe, as early as the fourteenth century. the vinegar was offered to our Saviour; a part of They spring from the adjacent hills, which are the girdle of our Lord; a link of the chain with said to be formed of calcareous earth, mixed with which St. Peter was martyred ; an arm and some silicious substances. They are all a strong cha- of the hair of John the Baptist; a tooth of St. lybeate; and some of them are impregnated with Thomas ; some bones of Simeon, &c. It was
with the utmost difficulty I could keep my counte- are discontented. They conceive themselves de. nance. I asked the priest if all these things were graded by being taken from France, a leading matters of faith. He replied, “ No, but they rest power in Europe, and made an appendage on on the most undoubted histor cal evidence"-Prussia. Their trade and wealth have sensibly which, for my part, I always thought was the pro- diminished. per ground of faith as to a matter of fact. These Bonn on the Rhine, Tuesday, July 9.-We left relics are publicly exhibited for fifteen days once Bergheim yesterday at seven, and came to Coin seven years. About 40,000 persons daily crowd logne by ten, fourteen miles—for we never go to see them during that time. In 1545 more than more than about four miles an hour. We spent 100,000 came every day for this purpose. How seven hours in visiting this most ancient and cugross are the impositions of this corrupt church! rious city, Cologne. The Rhine here first burst May the blessed Spirit of Grace hasten the time upon us; a noble, broad, rich flood, rushing from when truth shall once more triumph over its Papal, the Lake of Constance, and flowing on with a as it did over its Pagan fees !
gradually retarded stream, to Holland, more than Aix is surrounded with beautiful boulevards ; seven hundred miles—I should rather say, rushand the adjoining hill of Louisbourg commands a ing from the Grisons through the lakes of Confine view of the city. The allied monarchs were stance. Cologne was a city built by the Romans, here for three months, four years back; and our of whom many memorials remain. A large room own beloved king the year before last. His affa- in the old Jesuits' College is filled with Roman bility and generosity won every heart. English sarcophagi, altars, bas-reliefs, and inscriptions newspapers are, I am told, prohibited throughout found in the town and neighborhood. The most of the Prussian states--we could find none. venerable Professor Walraf, after fifty-five years Every creature is brim-full of discontent; and spent in the collection of antiquities and specimuch beyond the occasion, I should think. mens of the fine arts, still lives to enjoy his repu
Bergheim, Saturday evening, July 5.-We have tation. On the fiftieth anniversary of his profesfinished our journey for the week. We left Aix sorship—which is soon approaching-a fète is 10 this morning for Juliers, eighteen miles. Here we be given him by all the authorities of the town. were shown an ancient portrait of the greatest of The churches, convents, &c. are numerous : the Christian fathers, St. Austin, with this inscrip- amounting, it is said, to one hundred and eightytion, “Saint Aurelius Augustinus, the pillar and five in number. The Cathedral is a stupendous teacher of the church, the abyss of wisdom, the unfinished edifice, which was two hundred and terror of heretics, the restorer of the apostolical fifty years in building. Here we were shownlife.” If the doctrine of Austin had but been pre- can you imagine it?—the tomb of the three wise served uncorrupted in the church, there would men who visited our Lord. Actually so! The have been no need of a Reformation, eleven cen- front of the tomb in which their pretended sculls turies after his death, to revive the evangelical are placed, is of gold, enriched with oriental tntruth which he taught. After dinner, (which now paz. Their names, Caspar, Melchior, Balthasar, costs us twenty-pence a head,) we set off for this are fixed beneath in letters of rubies, their bodies village, where are six hundred and fifty souls, and are enshrined in massy silver gilt, adorned with scarcely a Protestant. It is a sweet, calm place; precious stones. Yet three centuries back this the hotel clean, people attentive, beds comfortable. city was all but Protestant. The Archbishop Our host was a fine young man, one of Bonaparte's Herman Count de Wied, had actually espoused soldiers, and not at all disguising his hatred of the the Reformation. But the Popish party prevailed; Prussian government. In the house opposite, the the pious archbishop was deprived of his see, and royal family of France received the news of the the dawning light was smothered or extinguished. detention of Louis XVI., at Varennes, in 1792. What guilt is incurred by those who trifle away Farewell, for to-night.
the “time of their visitation !"* Monday morning, July 8.—Yesterday we had We visited the church where Rubens was bapour English service twice, as usual. My college tized, and that where St. Ursula and her eleven friend, whom I shall often have occasion to speak thousand virgins were interred. The town is of, preached to us most excellently. A Protestant strongly fortified, has fifty thousand souls, and one sermon is doubly delightful now we are annoyed thousand three hundred Protestants; amongst and disgusted with Popish doctrines and corrup- whom, I am told, there are many most excellent tions on all hands. The church here is filled with and spiritually-minded persons. The city is ansuperstitions ; a procession of two hundred persons came eighteen miles, yesterday, to sing hymns in
* I can refer now with great pleasure to the intehonor of the Virgin. Still the attention of the resting details on this subject in the Rev. J. Scott's people at church was very great; their prayer- able continuation of Milner's Church History, 1826. books are in Latin and German. Under an image t" The hugest fraud of this kind (as to relics) of our Lord, we found these words, “ Thou who that ever was practised, was when the contents of a passest by, honour always the image of Christ; whole cemetery were brought forth as the bones of but adore not the image, but him whom it repre- eleven thousand British virgins, all bound from sents.". It is thus precisely that a heathen priest Cornwall, to be married in Armorica, carried by would have excused his idolatry. We inquire all tempests up the Rhine to the city of Cologne, and we can as to the state of the people. The chil- there martyred by an army of Huns under Attila. dren in the Prussian states are forced to go to Christendom were eager to acquire a portion of the
Even this legend obtained credit ; all parts of school; all read and write; the men are husband- relics, and at this day a church may be seen at Comen, and get six or seven francs a week, and logne, literally lined with the bones."---Soutney's their food; the women three francs. The people Book of the Church, vol. i. p. 293.
nexed to Prussia. We noticed a most magnifi- remembrance of the passage of the Rhine by the cent organ in one of the churches—the gallery German troops near this place in 1814. As soon composed entirely of marble, with statues of the as the guide reached the summit, he exclaimed, apostles and patriarchs in the front of it—the “Glory to God in the highest”—Gloria Deo in whole supported by marble pillars, and filling up excelsisma pleasing remnant of ancient piety. an entire corner of the church. It is splendid As I walked down the hill, I asked our guide if beyond conception.
he had a Bible. He told me he had, and that he Remagen on the Rhine, Tuesday evening.–We read it constantly. I asked him a few questions have had a most charming day. At Bonn, I en about the Old and New Testament history; when quired after a Lutheran clergyman with whom II discovered that his Bible was a pamphlet of 18 had made some acquaintance in England, a most or 19 pages, drawn up by the priests. He had no pious and sensible man. The person whom I idea that there was any book such as we mean by addressed, immediately said he knew him, and the Bible-90 sad is the ignorance of these poor that he had just sent around his letter to announce people. The corn harvest is begun. The vintage his approaching marriage--for I found that it is is not till the middle of October. Every thing the custom of all respectable persons here to write here depends on the vine : the landlords let porcircular notes to their friends, to inform them of tions of land to tenants for half the crop of grapes the day of their intended marriage—in England of each year; the punishment for eating any grapes we rather conceal such an intention. I soon met is five francs the first offence, and four days' imwith my friend, and he conducted us over the prisonment the second. The wine is thirteen University of Bonn, founded, in 1819, by the king pence the bottle. During the brief time of the of Prussia-five hundred and twenty students, vintage, the people employed eat as many grapes half Protestant and half Catholic-eighteen pro- as they like. fessors—library, fifty-five thousand volumes. Coblentz, July 10, Wednesday. We have just The collegc, a former palace of the Elector of arrived at this town, which, from its iminense forCologne, of immense extent. There is said to be tifications seems to be the key of Germany. We a considerable revival of piety among Catholics left Remagen at nine this morning, and dined at and Protestants here. The estimate of real | Andernach, near which place it is thought that Christianity rises, its vital truths are better appre- Julius Cæsar crossed the Rhine. The dinners ciated, and circumstantials less vehemently in- here annoy us; nothing is simple and plain; hashes, sisted on. There is an excellent Bible Society; stews, oils, dirt. Andernach is a curious town and in consequence the nature of spiritual reli- | very old—full of remains of Roman antiquity—a gion, as well as its obligation, is understood. The gate built by Augustus. But it is the road along leading Catholics are sensible men, and their the Rhine which is most interesting ; for ten or churches here are alınost entirely free from altars twelve miles the diversified scenes, and beauty of and images.
the views, exceeded all the conceptions which I Still Popery in itself is the same; and as soon had previously formed : vineyards, rocks, moun. as a Catholic priest preaches the Gospel purely, tains, every thing that can enchant the eye, and ke is, somehow or other, removed or banished by fill it with gratitude to the Author of every blessing: his superiors : though he cannot be further perse. Here we intend sleeping. We are four hundred cuted, as the king is a Protestant. I hear that and forty miles from Calais, and all well, and surone priest in Alsace has been the means of con- rounded with the goodness and mercy of God! verting forty families in his parish. The kings of We have now smooth roads, without pavé, and Prussia and the Netherlands are Protestants. the weather is charming. Coblentz is beautifully This is a great point, and is working consider- situated on the confluence of the Rhine and the able good, and would work more, if Protestant Moselle. A bridge of boats crosses the Rhine. princes understood better the great principles of The view on each side is exquisite. The river the reformed faith, and felt more deeply the obli- flows with a strong current, and is, I should think, gation of acting upon them. At the period of the about one thousand feet wide at this part. We Reformation, religion actuated the counsels of here saw some of those timber floats, for which kings, and entered into the policy of alliances; the Rhine is so celebrated. When the various and ininisters of state took into account their re- smaller floats are united, they form an immenso sponsibility to God for the cause of the pure faith raft, about 1000 feet long, and 90 broad, which is of Christ committed to their care.
managed and piloted in its course by 400 men, Our drive from Bonn to this place, Remagen, and when sold in Holland produces about 10,0001. by the banks of the Rhine, was exquisite ; words sterling. The vast pieces of timber are firmly can give you no idea of it. A fine river, five or joined to each other, and temporary wooden six hundred feet broad, with continual windings, houses are built on them for the accommodation opening into bays; on each side villages, with of the men. We hope to be at Franckfort on beautiful spires ; vineyards, crags, corn-tields, in- Saturday, and at Basle sometime about Tuesday terspersed: the scenery now rising with magnifi-week, July 22. cence, now sinking into softer beauty ; distant
I am yours,
D. W. mountains bounding the prospect; nothing can be conceived more splendid and lovely. We alighted P. S. After dinner, as we were sitting in a café at Mehlem, and crossed the Rhine at Kænigs- here in Coblentz reading the journals, a gentlewinter, to ascend the lofty mountains of Dra- manly-looking man, seeing us to be strangers, adchensfels, one thousand eight hundred feet above dressed us. He began by asking me some comthe level of the river, and commanding an asto- mon questions; but soon turned the conversation nishing view. A monument is here erected in politics, and inveighed warınly against the
existing Prussian government, and the want of tude to the Almighty Giver of all good, as since freedom amongst the continental nations. He I have been passing through this scene of wonwent on to extol the liberty and riches of England. ders. His manner surprised me; and having heard that The spot where we now are, (St. Goar) for spies were often employed to induce strangers to example, is enclosed on all hands by the most disclose their sentiments, I was very reserved. variegated mountain scenery. The ruins of ReichUpon this he plainly asked me what I thought enfels are above the town; at our feet is the Rhine; about the Holy Alliance, and the invasion of Spain on the opposite shore is Goarhausen, crowned with by the French. I replied, that I was a minister a Roman fortification. The sun is shedding its of religion: that my information was far too slight glories on all sides, whilst the broken rocks and to enable me to give a correct opinion; that as valleys receive or reject his rays, and create the a stranger I took no part in the politics of the most grateful alternations of light and shade. Last countries through which I travelled; but cultivat- night we hired a boat, and ascended the river to ed a spirit of good will towards all nations. He witness the setting sun and observe the two was evidently chagrined, and rudely turned away shores in unbroken luxuriance. Every reach forms from me. I thus escaped, as I imagine, the sur- in fact a superb lake: we passed from one to anveillance of the police, or perhaps a summary order other, comparing the different beauties which to leave the country. Sir Henry Wotton recom- each presented to us with a lavish hand. The mended our great poet, Milton, when about to scene was majestic indeed; and the last rays of travel on the continent in 1638, " to keep his the orb of day tinging the mountain tops, and thoughts close and his countenance open”—advice throwing a glow over the waters, completed, so to not inappropriate after a lapse of nearly two cen- speak, the picture. turies.
But I must, absolutely, tear myself from this topic to tell you, that at Coblentz we ascended
the heights of Ehrenbreitstein, an impregnable LETTER IV.
fortress, commanding a prospect beyond measure
extensive. The point of greatest beauty was the St. Goar, July 11.—Carlsruh, July 19, 1823. junction of the Rhine and the Moselle. "The MoScenery of Rhine-Ehrenbreitstein— French Monu- selle, with its deep red stream, meets the yellow
ment of Campaign in Russia - Discontent-Hirt- waters of the Rhine ; and the combat between the zenach-Jew-Bingen – Vineyard-Weisbaden two is most surprising. They do not mix. At
- Violation of Sabbath - Meniz-Franckfort – the mouth of the Moselle, the division of the two English Newspapers-Conversion of Priest-Gö- waters is so strongly marked, that you would the--Revival of Religion - Darmstadt-Leander think a dam had been interposed; but the Rhine Van Ess — Oppenheim - Storks'-nests - Heidel- forms, with its larger current, an overpowering bergMartin Luther-Professor-Castle-Man- barrier against its weaker neighbor, whose waters heim-Flying Bridge-Schwetzingen-Carlsruh creep along the shore till they are gradually lost -Floods.
in their course. We visited only one church at ST. GUAR, on the west bank of the Rhine, 460 miles majesty of the divine works in CREATION, gave us
Coblentz, St. Castor—for the beauties and simple from Calais, Friday, June 11, 1823.
no great taste for the superstitions of a church We are now, my dear sister, in the very heart which has been employed so many hundred years of the most beautiful part of the Rhine. From in deforming the greatest of all the works of God, Bonn to Mentz, ninety-seven miles, the route is by REDEMPTION. the side of this majestic flood. Magnificence and A noble fountain, however, attracted our atbeauty are united in the highest imaginable degree. tention ; it was built by the French in 1812, and The Joftiest rocks, craggy, crowned with ancient bears this inscription : "1812, Memorable pour
la and dilapidated towers, rise before you, so as some- Campagne contre les Russes.”—Beneath this, the times to darken the scene, and are then joined and Russians, in 1814, added these words : “ Sous le softened by a perpetual garden. The profusion of prefecture de Jules Doazan, vu et approuvé par vegetation all around, especially the luxuriant nous, Commandant Russe de la ville de Coblenız, vines, carried up every chink and crevice where 1st January, 1814.” A mixture of great good and the sun can reach; the beauty and freshness now great evil seems to have followed the rule of shed over then, together with their fragrant smell France for twenty-three years over the Pays Bas, as they are flowering, compose a scene quite in- and the countries on the Rhine. The convents conceivable to those who have not witnessed it. are abolished; the Protestants have churches; Hundreds of small villages also, with spires tower- the cities and roads are improved and beautified; ing above them, and perhaps an old fortification education is promoted; knowledge and truth have and gates, or a ruined château, are scattered on entrance; Popery, has received a deadly blow; the banks on each side, whilst the ever-flowing commerce, art, industry, property, are revived and! Rhine, deep and rich, expands itself into a lake, or quickened. But, what a painful catalogue of ! presses on between abrupt rocks, or embraces, miseries, injustice, ruin, infidelity, vice, must be every now and then, an island filled with fruit- drawn up on the contrary side ! On the whole, trees and vines ;-conceive of all this, and you will it must be admitted, that the population is still faallow me, without blame, to be a little enthusiastic. vorable to the French, and would wish to return The noble road which the French have raised by to them as masters. The memory of Bonaparte the margin of the stream, and without pavé, in- is too much cherished, loved, adored every where. creases the pleasure of this part of our journey. May God, the Sovereign Ruler and Saviour of I think I never felt such warnı emotions of grati- | mankind, educe good from the confusion and tu