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ye to do with me, O Tyre and Zidon, and all the coasts of Palestine ?........The children of Judah and the children of Jerusalem, have ye sold unto the Grecians, that ye might remove them, far from their border. Behold I will sell your sons and your daughters into the hand of the children of Judah, and they shall sell them to the Sabeans, to a people far off; for the Lord hath spoken it." Joel iii. 1-8. The recent abolition of slavery by the parliament of England is the most glorious national act ever yet registered upon the pages of history, and the most generous national sacrifice that the angels of heaven ever yet witnessed among the sons of men.

PTOLEMAIS, OR ACRE.

us to spend the night at his house. He was present at the battle of Navarino, and gave us an account of it somewhat different to the received version. We visited a palace built by Addullah pacha, about a mile from the town. It is in initation of the Kiosks of Turkey. The gardens are laid out with some taste, and there are several little summer-houses that approach towards beauty. A tank is surrounded by a marble walk, upon which are many vases of the same material from Italy. The pacha is now a prisoner at Cairo, and is almost a solitary instance, at least in modern times, in which the life of an enemy has been spared by a Turkish conqueror.

We visited Acre on the morning of April 3rd. It is called Accho in Judges, and Ptolemais in the Acts of the Apostles, from one of the Ptolemies by whom it was enlarged. The army of Titus

salem. It is celebrated in the histories of the crusades for the number and length of its sieges, and was the last fortified place yielded up by the Christian powers. Buonaparte received here his first reverses, from the valor of Sir Sydney Smith. It stood a siege against Ibrahim pacha on his way towards Asia Minor, and was defended by Addullah pacha on the part of the sultan. It is a place of considerable extent, and its principal advantages are derived from its situation, which is

The

WE passed along the plain of Tyre, which ex-assembled here previous to its march upon Jerutends to the distance of a little more than an hour's walk from the city, until we arrived at the extremity of the bay, near which place continental Tyre is by some supposed to have stood. We saw some columns and other memorials of departed greatness. From hence we had to pass over the extremity of a range of hills, and from the highest part of the road we had a fine view of the city, bay, and plain of Tyre, and in the extreme distance could discern the snow-clad mountains of Lebanon and Hermon. We were twice stop-comparatively good, though the vessels in the ped by soldiers stationed at khans to protect the road, but when we informed them that we were English travellers, they allowed us to pass on. I never saw any place so rich in flowers. Within the distance of a few yards I counted more than 20 different kinds, and such was their profusion in some places, that the hills had more the appearance of a flower-garden than of a wild nook in the wilderness. The road continued at a considerable elevation above the sea for some hours, and there are evidences, from fallen pillars and masses of hewn stone, that the merchant princes had chosen these delightful spots as the places of their retreat from the noise of the city. We passed another khan, and the plain of Acre, bounded by the range of mount Carmel, burst at once upon our sight. I had been accustomed to consider the plains of Palestine as little better than sheep-walks, but was agreeably surprised to find them extensive tracts of rich land, cultivated in some places, and capable of cultivation in all. We rested a little time near a stream of water. An old woman first came up riding on an ass, with most piteous moans; her friends were taking her to receive medical advice, but I fear that no skill could avail for her recovery. Some Armenian pilgrims were there before us, who offered us for sale an ancient Greek coin and a fine old Bedouin soon afterwards joined our party. About two hours from Acre we observed the commencement of an aqueduct, and before we had arrived at the city, I counted more than 400 arches in it, all built of stone, and some of them upwards of 30 feet high. Near the town the water is raised in pillars as at Sidon. It was repaired by the late pacha, after its partial destruction by the French during the siege of Acre. We met an Italian physician in the service of the pacha not far from the gates, who kindly invited

harbor are much exposed. It still retained many
marks of the late siege, though the outer walls
had been rebuilt with an expedition that appears
wonderful, when we consider the numerous other
calls upon the attention of Mahomet Ali.
castle was the principal object of the besiegers'
vengeance. It had been almost one solid mass
of masonry, but was then little better than a heap
of ruins. The upper stories were entirely shot
away, and there was none of the outer facing of
the lower walls. The walls, minarets, and dome
of the mosque, formerly very magnificent, were
riddled through and through; the trees were leaf-
less and without branches; the roofs of some of
the houses were gone, and the sides of others had
fallen in; and remains of gun carriages, balls, and
shells, were scattered about the streets in every
direction. In an open shed near the castle we
observed the remnants of marble vases, similar to
those at the palace, not fewer than 30 of which
must have been thus destroyed. A few marble
pillars were all the remains we saw of an ancient
date, probably brought from the ruins of Cæsarea.
The bazaars have had arched roofs of stone that
extended the whole length of the street; a great
convenience, but they must have assisted decep-
tion by making the places obscure. We visited
the bazaar to procure a few necessaries for our
journey, and several persons were very importu-
nate to purchase a common French shawl I had
round my waist. Few of the inhabitants had then
returned, and the streets were almost desolate.-
The repairs of the fortifications were carried on
by peasants from the villages, superintended by
soldiers. We passed a number of them on the
road, and from the exertion required by the guard
to keep them together, it was evident that they
came to the work with no good will.

CARMEL.

THE wind was high when we left Acre, and blew the sand about with such violence that we had great difficulty in making our way. The bay to the southward extends to mount Carmel, and we were three hours in skirting its shore. We first forded the river Belus, the sand of which has been much used in the making of glass, and then came to that ancient river, the river KISHON," immortalised in the song of Deborah and Barak, over which we were ferried by a Jewish boatman. The saddles are never taken off the horses in these countries during a journey, either by day or night. They were now taken from the animals that they might not be wetted in crossing the river, and the backs of the poor creatures had been so chafed by them, that I felt unwilling to mount mine again. After passing some sepulchres in the rocks we entered the town of Hypha, and were detained some time by the guard, until one of our party waited on the governor, and obtained our release. There were several brass cannon upon the walls, all ready for action. The vessels have here better shelter than at Acre, but the water is shallow. This town is nearly at the foot of mount Carmel, which extends about 30 miles, in a south-eastern direction from the sea, in nearly an equal ridge, and at an elevation of about 1600 feet. It is often referred to in Scripture, and was once covered with trees, but it is now nearly bare, and "the excellency of Carmel" has withered before the curse of heaven. It was the usual residence of the prophets Elijah and Elisha. The place where the false prophets of Baal were discomfited and slain was towards the other extremity, nearer Jezreel, to which Ahab retired; and at some point near which it is approached by the Kishon. We may stand at the top of Carmel, as did Gehazi, and look towards the sea, but alas! there is now no "little cloud like a man's hand;" still there is the promise of a shower, and in due time the streams of divine mercy will again fall upon this thirsty land, and men shall again liken themselves in their prosperity to "the excellency of Carmel and Sharon." Near the point that overlooks the sea there is a monastery of Carmelite friars. It was destroyed a few years ago by Addullah pacha, that he might convert the materials to his own use, and though he was ordered to rebuild it at his own expense by the sultan, when a proper representation of the circumstance had been made to his court, no attention was ever paid to the mandate. The monks are now rebuilding it themselves in a very splendid manner, and one of the fraternity is the architect. At a lower elevation on the same point, is a palace recently erected by the pacha. There is a small building near the sea, said to cover the cave in which Elisha dwelt, but as the door was locked we could not gain admittance.

CESAREA.

It was with difficulty we could keep on our horses at the time we left Carmel, the wind blew with so much violence. We then entered upon a beau

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tiful plain. We saw the village of Syra in a break in the chain of mountains to the left. There is a ridge of rocks between the road and the sea, and in many places there are ruins. At one point the road is cut through them, and there are yet the ruts in the stone made by the ancient wheeled carriages. It opens upon a magnificent ruin of considerable extent, upon which the rays of the declining sun were falling from a dark cloud, which added to the interest of its appearance.It is called Athlek by the natives, a few of whom find shelter near it. There are the remains of a strong castle, an extensive church, and many other buildings. The walls are some of them 15 feet thick. Its history is not known, but it is supposed to have been erected under the Greek emperors. I have seldom been more powerfully struck than I was by the first sight of this place, but much of the impression may have arisen from the peculiar character of the evening, as it threatened a thunder-storm, the force for which was gathering in dark masses round the tower, whilst the sun shed one last glorious ray upon the venerable pile that had braved the shocks of so many centuries, and now appeared as if devoted to sudden and complete destruction. The muleteers were desirous to remain here for the benefit of the fine grazing for their animals, but as there was yet a little time before sunset we were anxious to proceed. The rocks on our left were cut in many places, and we saw many caves and remains of towns. I amused myself as we rode slowly along with looking at the rocks, and in the light of the moon with which we were favored, it was easy for fancy to form castles and towers, and people them with the ideal beings of another age; at times the illusion was complete, and I almost believed in the phantoms I had myself conjured up. We lodged at the sheikh's house at Tortura, but as my companions were unable to sleep from the incessant attacks of certain little blood-thirsty inmates of the establishment, that assailed us under every possible form, we resumed our journey at an early hour, still assisted by the friendly moon. Soon after dawn we crossed the river Zirka, upon which was formerly an Egyptian colony, and it is said by travellers that crocodiles of a small size are still found here, the descendants of those brought over from Egypt as deities. Our progress was now slow, from the depth of the sand. The shore was covered with shells, in some places to a considerable depth.

The first notice of our approach towards Ca sarea, was at an hour's distance from the Zirka, when we discovered a number of arched apartments close to the shore. They were probably in former times used as store-houses. Six are open, one is in ruins, and several others are buried under the sand. They appear to have extended a considerable distance, in the direction of the city.Josephus speaks of "several arched vaults, that served for seamen's cabins," near the harbor, but these must be of more modern construction. The city was founded by Herod, and every building in it, whether public or private, was of marble. The haven, which appears to have been almost entirely an artificial formation, was larger than the Piræus at Athens, and was defended by a breakwater. No remains of it are now to be discover

ed, though some of the stones used in its erection were 50 feet in length. In the time of the apostles it was the principal city of Syria, and the residence of the Roman governor. It was a dispute respecting the possession of this city that gave rise to the war with the Romans; the Jews claiming it because it had been built in their own land, and the Greeks, because it had been dedicated to the heathen gods. Vespasian was here first proclaimed emperor by his soldiers, after which he hastened to Alexandria, and from thence to Rome, and Titus took the command of the army which was destined to carry into effect the awful predictions that had been uttered against Jerusalem.

woes of the prisoner and the triumphs of the persecutor had alike passed away; and where the simple eloquence of an apostle was once heard, and its power was acknowledged by an unjust judge and an ambitious monarch, no sound could then be distinguished but the gentle murmur of the sea. There was a single boat passing at the time, with its small white sail, to remind us of the thousands that once bore themselves proudly upon the same waters, laden with the produce of all climes. This spot is particularly dear to the missionary, as it was consecrated by the baptism of the first Gentile convert, at that time a wonder without a precedent. Now the children of the adoption are living under the wrath of God, and the despised "barbarians," from almost every nation among men, are admitted into the favor of the Lord, and have the promise that they shall sit down with Abraham, and Isaac, and Jacob, in the kingdom of heaven. At such a place, the solemn caution of the apostle comes home to the mind with additional force ;-" Be not high-minded, but fear, for if God spared not the natural branches, take heed lest he spare not thee." Rom. xi. 20, 21.

The city of which these are the remains was built in the time of the crusaders. The walls can he easily traced, in an oblong form, the extended side towards the sea. There are many apartments, pillars, and parts of arches, in the area of the city; there is an arched vault near the sea; and in another direction, the remains of two oval recesses may have belonged to the eastern end of the cathedral. The ruins of a castle stand upon a small peninsula, and granite columns are The road along the sea-shore continued to be scattered along the sea shore in great profusion. tedious until we turned into the vale of SHARON, Without the city, on the southern side, are several which appeared as if covered with a rich carpet mounds of ruins, overgrown with grass and brush- of many colors, from the numerous flowers that wood. The amphitheatre stood in this direction, flourish in its fertile soil. There are other valleys where Herod Antipas was smitten by an angel of the same name, and it is not known which of of God, and eaten of worms. Whilst I was occu- them was celebrated for the production of the pied in taking a sketch of the place, my compa-rose. Our animals being tired, we remained for nions picked up several pieces of marble, upon one of which was a flower, well executed, and upon another a Greek inscription. There are many holes in the ground, made by the pachas of Acre in digging for the marbles by which their mosques and palaces are decorated. The aqueduct is nearly buried in the sand.

the night near a brook, and spreading our clothes upon the ground, slept in the open field. I thought of Him, who in the same country "had not where to lay his head."

JOPPA.

saw a village of some extent on an elevation near the sea. We left our animals near the gate to graze, and one of the mules died soon after our arrival.

There is not a single inhabitant near the place, nor any modern building, a circumstance which gives it a purity of character seldom presented to WE were up long before day-break, April 5th, and the traveller. A few birds and lizards are the only continued our course along the vale of Sharon, at living possessors we saw of this once crowded city, a greater distance from the sea. The whole of and these are not often disturbed in their abode, this region belonged to the tribe of Manasseh.— as the road usually pursued passes at a little dis- We passed two small villages of mean appeartance. Philip, the deacon, resided here some ance. As we approached Jaffa, we entered into years, with his four virgin daughters. It was here the tribe of Ephraim, and the ground became more that Cornelius, the centurion, beheld the vision of uneven, with many mounds of unequal size. We an angel, and that Peter declared to him and his were overtaken by a sharp shower of rain near a house this cheering truth, that "God is no re-bridge we had to cross, but it soon subsided. We specter of persons, but in every nation he that feareth him, and worketh righteousness, is accepted with him." Acts x. 34, 35. Paul was imprisoned here two whole years; and at other times visited the place on his way to and from Jerusalem; and it was here that Felix trembled before him, and that Agrippa was almost persuaded to be a Christian. As it was the usual residence of the Roman governor, it was the scene of more numerous cruelties than any other part of Palestine during the heathen persecutions. The ecclesiastical historian Eusebius was bishop of this place. The famous Origen resided here some time, and whilst yet a layman, was permitted to preach before bishops. A walk through ruins where scenes so memorable have been witnessed, could not but rouse the dullest soul into excitement, and awaken many trains of most profitable reflection. The

Jaffa, the ancient Joppa, is situated upon a hill of a conical form, with a castle on the summit. It presents fewer ruins than are usually found in the Syrian towns. We took breakfast with the English consul, an Armenian. His house was formerly a convent, and is upon the same spot, according to tradition, as the residence of Simon, the tanner. There fell a heavy shower of rain during our stay, attended with high wind. The vessels in the harbor rocked about as if they had been in the open sea, though they were moored very near the shore, in a narrow channel formed by a ledge of rocks. When Vespasian approached the city, the inhabitants, who were all pirates,

fled to their ships, but a storm coming on, upon grims, and whilst a discussion was going forward, I these rocks they were dashed to pieces. There pushed on, as I was the first of the party, and was are about 4000 inhabitants, 800 of whom are followed by all the others except the mokara, or Christians. The neighborhood is celebrated for principal muleteer, who was detained by the old the excellence and richness of its fruits, particu- man. Mr. N. returned to effect his release. The larly oranges. It is the Joppa of Scripture. Tra- Sheikh wished to refer the matter to the superior dition would carry us far back in the history of of the Latin convent, but Mr. N. demanded to be Noah, who is said to have built the ark at this taken to the governor. They went towards his place, and even to the fabulous ages, in the his- residence, but he was in his harem, and could not tory of Andromeda, who was here chained to the be disturbed. The sheikh then lowered his derock, and of Perseus, who here washed the wounds mands, and asked only for a small present, when received in his combat with the centaur. The he was told that he might take any thing he chose cedars floated from Lebanon for the building of from our baggage, but should hear of it next day the temple were landed at this port. The pro- from the governor of Jerusalem, in a way that phet Jonah embarked here for Tarshish, with the would not be agreeable. We were at last allowed vain wish to flee from the presence of the Lord. to depart, without either pay or present. By this In this harbor Judas Maccabeus burnt the Syrian time the pilgrims were ready to leave the town, fleet. Peter here raised up Tabitha to life, and and we travelled on together, forming a far more tarried many days with one Simon, a tanner," motley cavalcade than that of Chaucer's worthies upon whose house-top he saw the vision of the on their pilgrimage to Canterbury. The poorer descending sheet, and received the message from pilgrims, some of whom were not too much burCornelius. In modern times, Jaffa has been ren-dened with clothes, were allowed for a small sum dered famous, or rather infamous, by the massacre of the Turkish prisoners, which was ordered by Napoleon, and carried into execution under circumstances of great cruelty. The importance of this place has continued unto our day, from its being the nearest sea-port to Jerusalem. The different European powers have each their representative consul, whose office is principally to assist the pilgrims.

ARIMATHEA.

UPON leaving Jaffa, we passed through numerous gardens presenting a rich appearance from the recent showers, after which we entered upon an extensive plain, with slight undulations, and well cultivated. We saw the village of Loud, on our left, at the distance of a few miles, the LYDDA of Scripture, and called by Josephus, "not less than a city in largeness." In a little more than three hours from Jaffa, we observed a tower, which was once attached to a monastery, dedicated to the forty martyrs who perished in Armenia. We then entered Ramla, the Rama of Ephraim, and the Arimathea of the New Testament. The crusaders found here one of the principal cities of the country, and under their rule it continued to rise in importance from its convenient situation, at the base of the hills along which winds the principal road to Jerusalem. Robert, the reckless count of Normandy, was appointed bishop of this place, and St. George, the patron saint of merry England, is by some said to have died here. There is a Latin convent, in the possession of Spaniards, and many ruins of strength and extent. There is a greater appearance of comfort, and more trees, than are usually found in the interior towns of Syria.

to ride a number of spare horses on their return from Jaffa. The name of a noted robber was often mentioned in their conversation, and they brandished their clubs in defiance. There were many Greeks from Anatolia, well armed and clothed in a more respectable manner. An Armenian priest, with his dark turban and mantle, was one of the most conspicuous of the party. The females, with their faces veiled, trotted along as boldly as the rest, and two of them were sitting in a most awkward manner, in a pannier basket, slung across a mule. We were joined too at times by Turks and Bedouins, who reined their fine horses for a moment to have a passing salutation. There might be about a hundred of us in all. There was plenty of shouting, singing, and laughter, and mirth seemed the order of the day, until the clouds darkened, and soon silenced the noise, by pouring down upon us a plentiful shower of rain.

We had by this time begun to ascend the hills. The road is one of the worst I ever travelled, though I had passed over some rough ones since my departure from England. There were loose stones, masses of rock rendered slippery by the rain, mud, and puddles of water, and my old horse had great difficulty to keep his feet. Some better mounted cavalier would try to pass me, but the narrowness of the path would not allow it without an unpleasant concussion. The hills are not high, and are rounded off at the summit, as if a number of immense cupolas had been thrown in confusion upon each other. At times we wound along their sides, and then rode along the pass formed at the base by their junction. They are composed of rocks partially covered with earth, with a few olive trees and a little brush-wood growing in favored spots. At every hill we came to, it appeared as if the next would be the summit of the range; but we passed one defile after another, and were still disappointed. We crossed the Our muleteers were longer than usual in load- brook from which David is said to have taken the ing the animals, on the morning of the day we ex- pebbles, with one of which he slew the giant. pected to see Jerusalem, which made our depar- We passed Karia Abougosh, the castle of a chief ture rather later than we had intended. We were of that name; who was once the Robin Hood of stopped in one of the streets of Ramla by an old the Holy Land, and the terror of all pilgrims and sheikh, who demanded a small tribute. I replied travellers, but is now a powerless prisoner at Dathat I was an Englishman, and that we were not pil-mascus. The village occupies a commanding si

tuation at the head of an extended valley, upon the opposite side of which there is a castle upon the peak of high hill, in which the robber sometimes shut himself, and bade defiance to the world. It is said by some to be Modin, the burial-place of the Maccabees; but from the Apocrypha it would appear that the sepulchres of these brave men must have been much nearer the sea. At the village is a substantial church, erected by the crusaders, still in such repair that it might be fitted up with little difficulty as a place of Christian worship; and though it be now used only as a shelter for cattle, and is filthy in the extreme, I am not without hope that it will again resound with anthems of praise unto the Lord. It has a centre nave, separated from the side aisles by arches, and much resembles some of the parish churches in England. The style is simple, and almost without ornament. We passed the foundations of another building, apparently on a similar plan, not far from Jerusalem. The only annoyance we met with was from some shepherd boys, who threw stones at us, and called us names that I did not understand; but my servant was so irritated by them, that he drew his pistol, and matters might have been serious if we had not interfered.

The road became more and more rugged and dreary as we approached Jerusalem. The rocks had gained the mastery, and refused to cherish the little earth that at a lower range still maintained its disputed possession, and tried to cheer the eye with a flower, or refresh the traveller by a fragrant shrub. An eminence was before us, and as I was told that when this was gained we should see the holy place, I hastened on to the head of the party, but was disappointed. There were yet other rocks to be scaled, and the road was all but impassable to our jaded animals. The moments seemed to be hours, and brought with them almost a feverish excitement. To effect an entrance into Jerusalem, more tears have flowed, and more hearts have throbbed, and more hardships have been endured, and more blood has been shed, than for any other spot in the world. I felt that the most interesting period of my travels was now arrived. Still, all my former ideas had been so much at variance with the reality of the scene, that when I did catch the first sight of the actual walls of the city, I felt little of that emotion that might be supposed to arise at such a moment. There was nothing in keeping with the solemnity of the time. The pilgrims were discharging their fire-arms, that had happily never been called into more serious play, and the only persons we saw consisted of a group of dancing girls, who assailed us with rude and unseemly gestures. As we came nearer all appeared to be wrapped in silence and solitude, there not being a single thing in sight that had life. Of Jerusalem we could see little more than a high wall built of light-colored stone, and the deep stillness seemed to say that it was protected by other powers than the common defences of man. By these thoughts the mind was calmed, and I had time to dwell for a moment upon the wonderful events that had here taken place, some of which are without a parallel, and had the whole hierarchy of heaven to behold them. I did not inquire which was Calvary, or which was the site of the temple, the crowd of thoughts that rushed

with confused impetuosity into my mind, prevented my attention to localities.

It was about three in the afternoon of the 6th April, 1833, that we entered the gates of Jerusalem. We had a letter of introduction, but found that it was to a member of the Latin convent, with which we did not desire to have any connection. Whilst the servants were making inquiries, we remained with our animals in an open space near the castle, but soon resolved to proceed to the Greek convent of Mar Michael, the usual resort of missionaries. We were told that the superior was at the church of the Sepulchre, to which we immediately repaired, and saw some of the imposing ceremonies of their worship. We were taken into the sacred place near the altar, set aside for the bishops and priests, and I was much ashamed, as we were still in our travelling dress. We obtained permission to lodge at the convent, and were shown into a low room, damp and dirty, along with a number of pilgrims, but on remonstrating with the superior, he vacated his own room for our use, after he had tried in vain to turn some other pilgrims out of a good apartment they occupied. The weather was many degrees cooler than upon the coast, from our more elevated situation.

JERUSALEM.

Ir has been said by an eloquent writer, when speaking of Jerusalem, "Never was subject less known to modern readers, never was subject more completely exhausted." I feel the full force of this remark. It had been the wish of many years that I might visit the holy city: when I first offered myself as a missionary, it was with a desire to be sent to this place: I had read much about its localities, and tried as far as possible to realise them in my mind; yet after all that I had read, and thought, and dreamed on the subject, the city that I pictured in my imagination was entirely different to Jerusalem as really exists; and though I shall now attempt to give some idea of what I saw, I do not expect to be more successful than my predecessors, and fear, that with all these warnings before me, I shall still produce many erroneous impressions.

The walls of Jerusalem are not traced upon any uniform plan, this not being permitted by the declivities of the hill along which they are carried: their extent, on a rough calculation, may be set down at a little less than three miles. When coming from any distant place, the phrase of Scripture would be used, "to ascend," but it must not on that account be understood as commanding an extensive prospect, or that the ground upon which it stands is high, when compared with the hills in its immediate vicinity. It is built upon one of the elevated surfaces of a range of mountains presenting all sizes and shapes. On the north side it is bounded by a plain, which extends upwards of a mile before the higher ground commences. On the eastern side the walls are built close to a ravine, at the bottom of which is the bed of Kedron, which gradually deepens as it approaches and passes the city; and on the opposite side of the valley is the range of mount Olivet.

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