« AnteriorContinuar »
miles, affords the varied prospects of river-scenery, deriving the head of the Episcopalians in this part of Scotland; much beauty from the frequent indentations of the coast, the body of Christians to which that family belonged, and and the occasional profusion of wood, especially on the which prevails as far as Fort William. The chapel in that coast of Ardnamurchan, which it separates from Morvern. place may be considered the outpost of episcopacy on this Mingary Castle, at its entrance, occupies a commanding side of Scotland. position. The neat cottages near Strontian, built of sub The house of Appin, the residence of this family, was stantial granite, and sometimes adorned with creepers, purchased some years ago by a stranger: and the attachcontrasted with the turf huts with which they are inter- ment of the people to its ancient proprietor could scarcely mingled, indicate the neighbourhood of a resident pro- be restrained from open displeasure at the sale. prietor. This improved taste in building is perceptible At BALLYHULISH the slate-quarries divert the attention in the cottages of several of the landlords in Appin and its awhile to the bustle and industry of a crowded population. neighbourhood : it is not more expensive than the old rude But the eye is more forcibly attracted, and the imaginastyle of construction, and whilst ornamental, animates the tion engrossed, by the picturesque beauty and gloomy proprietor with the consciousness of that paternal care of grandeur of the scenery which now opens on the view, and his tenants, which proves its own reward, and the tenants by the dismal tragedy which it recalls to remembrance. St. with self-respect and a regard to cleanliness, incompatible Mungo's Island, the cemetery of GLENCO, is the repository with the filthy and slovenly habits almost inseparable of the remains of the victims of the massacre. No memorials from their old and often wretched dwellings. The turf of them can be discovered: a ruined chapel contains some cottage is by no means necessarily a hovel; its walls, the monuments, one of which offers an innocent exhibition growth of the soil, are often proof against the roughest of vanity, which may be justified by many a splendid prewinds and heaviest rain : and its interior may be the cedent, and rescues effectually from oblivion an achievement abode of cleanliness and independence. But the difficulty which history has passed over in silence. It bears the of preserving it from dilapidation and dirt, is far greater representation, very well sculptured, of a dragoon struck than in the case of a building of more durable material, from his charger by a Highlander armed with sword and and requires attention and industry rarely found among target : above it is the name of Duncan Davidson, and the Scottish peasantry.
beneath it the following inscription: “ The fate of an At STRONTIAN is the residence of Sir James Riddell, the English dragoon who attacked Duncan Davidson at the proprietor of the wild and mountainous district of Ardna- battle of Preston Panns, where he fought under Prince murchan. Its population, scattered over the islands, or Charles Stuart." gathered in groups along the coasts, was formerly much The prospect embraces on one side the shores of Loch neglected: but the joint efforts of the proprietor, and of the Leven, rock, knoll, and wood-land, extending in beautiful Gaelic School Society, have been beneficially felt; and two perspective to bare and lofty heights: and on the other a parliamentary churches will soon supply the deficiency rich valley terminated by the sombre aud majestic preciof spiritual instruction. Some remains of former eccle- pices of Glenco. The entrance to this celebrated pass siastical structures may be traced on an island in a small through a long and stately avenue of forest-trees, corn-fields, lake embosomed in the mountains, still hallowed by the rich meadows, copse and wood, contrasts strangely with the Catholics. The people of Ardnamurchan are distinguished utter desolation of the barren and stony region which by their attachment to their native soil: Sir James Riddell extends beyond to its further extremity, and which, insepahas endeavoured, like his neighbour of Coll, to counteract rably associated in the mind of the traveller with the the practice of smuggling to which they are addicted, by barbarous transaction of which it was the scene, suggests to banishment from their homes to less hospitable parts of the imagination “the curse of barrenness" as the penalty his estate ; but with little success : Smuggling, like of the guilt incurred. Some huts occupy the site of the drinking, being a propensity scarcely curable where there abodes of the unfortunate inhabitants of this valley, who is an opportunity of indulging it. Of the estimate of the were treacherously murdered by the soldiers who had moral guilt of smuggling, found in these parts, a proof was partaken of their hospitality. The infamy of this atrocious afforded to me by the remark made by my guide from deed, perpetrated in conformity to the principles of the Fort William to Arisaig, whilst pointing out a glen near ancient Highland system of retaliation and warfare, is the road-side, notorious for the practice of the illicit divided between the immediate actors and the government distillation of spirits: “Oh, Sir," he exclaimed, in reply to of King William who sanctioned it. The remembrance of an observation on its baneful tendency, "we do not reckon it would have rankled in the breast of the most feeble and men bad in this country, who engage in this trade; we apathetic people: but in the fiery and tenacious bosom of consider it only forcing the laws ! But lately the illegal the Highlanders it wrought the settled and deadly purpose distillers of the wild district, between Lochs Lomond and of revenge; and to the frequent and bloody harvests, reaped Long, marched through Dumbarton, preceded by a piper, by King William's guiltless successors, the seed sown on carrying their kegs in triumph, and bidding defiance to the that fatal day contributed its share. The pass ascends police. The pernicious distinction between offences against between dark, lofty, and precipitous ridges, of which the the law of Gud, and the law of the land, to which the prominent and only picturesque feature is a single round housebreaker and highwayman might appeal in vindication | rocky peak, towering nobly above the rest. It chanced at of their crime, as justly as the smuggler, is unfortunately the moment of my passing to derive additional sublimity by no means confined to the Highlands of Scotland, but is from the circumstance of a solitary ray piercing the clouds current on our own coasts; and the rich who sanction the which brooded over its summit, and drawing forth at its practice by their participation or connivance, are responsible base the vivid lustre of a plot of green grass into brilliant in part, not only for the guilt incurred, but for the contrast with the noon-day twilight of the valley. A single miserable sophistry by which so many are tempted to the farm-house relieves the unvaried barrenness of the upper commission of the crime.
part of the pass. The road, the military route through The lead-mine of this district affords employment and Tyndrum, winds its way to the highest point of the ascent, support to a considerable population, and is celebrated when the dismal moor of Rannock opens on the view: the for the production of the carbonate of strontian first dis- King's House, a solitary inn, appearing like a caravansera covered in it.
in the desert. A parliamentary road proceeds between steep and lofty The descent to Loch Leven from the Moor, which is conridges to Loch Linnhe, and under the mountains of siderably elevated, significantly called the Devil's STAIRArugowar to the Connal Ferry. On setting foot on the CASE, is tedious and difficult, down the almost precipitous opposite shore we enter a region remarkable for its striking, side of a deep ravine, through which the river Leven varied, and contrasted interest. Ash and other trees ențich foams and tumbles, in its rapid progress from a hill-encirthe scenery between the Ferry and Ballyhulish, at which cled basin to the lake, rolling smoothly during the latter spot the channel of Loch Leven forms a rapid, so narrow part of its course over a rich and inbabited valley. Two and powerful, as to expel the salt from the upper part of men passed us as we approached the lake, one of whom the lake. The residence of Mr. Stewart is near to it; a bore on his shoulder a keg of spirits, whilst the other, who gentleinan descended from a younger branch of the gently whispered, as he hurried by, that he would speedily Stewarts of Appin. The Stewarts were the original pro- join us, was pointed out to me by my guide as the boatman prietors of a large part of Argyleshire, and displaced by who had engaged to await us at the upper extremity of the the Campbells, à clan of Irish extraction, who were con lake. He had availed himself of the opportunity to consequently long regarded as interlopers, and designated vey a smuggler to the public-house in the valley, and so 'greedy," in having gradually obtained possession of nearly well was he entertained, that he remained carousing during the whole county. The branch of Appin was regarded as an hour, when, as the evening was cold, and we wäre tor
mented by the unrelenting persecution of the midges, the To Cromwell's soldiers the Highlanders are indebted for musquitoes of the Scottish lakes, I pushed off, and taking teaching them the use of kale, and some other benefits one oar, and my guide the other, we completed a laborious resulting from superior civilization. Fort William has day's journey with a pull to Ballyhulish; but it was fortu- derived advantage from its vicinity to the Caledonian nately one of those nights which Byron happily describes Canal, and the greatly-increased intercourse with the Highas " not made for slumber." A bright moon now illumi- lands. It contains now places of worship belonging to the nated the wild sequestered recesses of the lake; and, Kirk, the Episcopalians, and the Roman Catholics. The as we passed St. Mungo's Island, about midnight, its neighbouring ancient castle of Inverlochy offers a striking beams, reflected from the water, and from the tomb- foreground to the huge mass of Ben Nevis. Dr. Macculloch stones of the cemetery, heightened by contrast the assigns its erection to the time of Edward. sombre grandeur of the peaks of Glenco, as they rose The road from Fort William to Arisaig is excellent, once more abruptly on the view, and deepened the gloom offering a rich variety of very beautiful scenery. The of the intermediate valley, whilst a solitary light on the church of Kilmalie, the parish which includes Fort William, opposite shore indicated the dwellings of the quarriers is on the opposite side of the Caledonian Canal. This of Ballyhulish, now resting from their labour. A scene of parish is sixty miles in length by thirty in breadth, commore perfect stillness or magic splendour I scarcely recol- prising seventy miles of sea-coast. The cemetery contains lect. Byron has supposed the mountains rejoicing over a monument erected to the memory of Colonel Cameron, the birth of a young eartnquake; it required a far less of the 92nd regiment, who fell at Waterloo, bearing a vigorous effort of the imagination to conceive them now spirit-stirring inscription from the pen of Sir Walter Scott. delighting in the transient cessation of that “groaning This is the country of the Camerons, a clan associated with and travailing of creation," which admits of little respite romantic and glorious recollections. A few miles distant, at this season of the year in these stormy regions. The on the western bank of Loch Lochy, is Auchnagary, the rapid of Ballyhulish had well nigh hurried us past our residence of Lochiel, the chief of the clan; and on the landing-place. The smuggler arrived in due time, chafing shore of Loch Eil, the road to Arisaig passes Fassafern, with rage, which he found it convenient to suppress, having the residence of his relation, Sir Ewen Cameron. Pennant paid the penalty of his transgression by a rough walk of has celebrated the heroism of Lochiel's ancestor, the great ten miles, along the pathless shore of the lake.
Sir Ewen, who emulating the unconquerable spirit of the
"gallant and chivalrous Montrose," whom he proposed to FORT WILLIAM; GLEN FINNAN; PRETENDER; himself as his model, was the last chieftain who capituLOCH AYLORT; OAKS; BORRODALE;
lated with Monk, the commander of Cromwell's army, and ARISAIG; FERRY.
afterwards faithful to the race of Stuarts, though not to
the cause of liberty and constitutional monarchy, fought in The road to Fort William offers little beauty. This his old age under their falling banner at Killikrankie. small town was originally built by James the Sixth, with the The interview of his descendant, Lochiel, with the Preintention of civilizing the Highlands, Campbelltown and tender, Charles Stuart, on board of the vessel which brought Stornaway having been made boroughs with the same view. the young adventurer to the coast of Scotland, which inThe fort was erected by Cromwell, and was then called the stantly involved bim in the calamities of the Rebellion, garrison of Inverlochy, being calculated for the reception of recalls the sacrifice of sound sense and strong conviction, 20,000 men. It was rebuilt on a smaller scale by King to the resistless impulse of innate, but mistaken loyalty William, from whom it derived its present name. “ The and chivalrous devotion. It was amongst such spirits that fort," (says Dr. Macculloch,) " is not dismantled nor the commanding genius, Chatham, sought, and found, the absolutely abandoned, as was intended; the Duke of hardy patriotism, which, like our native oak is the Wellington, with his usual steadiness of character, and growth of centuries. contempt of idle clamour, having opposed this design, as The name of Cameron is now no longer blended only with to all the Highland garrisons,"
local and romantic exploits, or dubious renown, but has been
associated, by our proudest records and loftiest minstrelsy, / shared the benefit of the general security, which has with the most splendid triumphs of the nation. The bloody encouraged the Highland lairds to protect it, both on wreath won by the descendant of Lochiel at Waterloo, was account of its intrinsic worth, which some future war may bound by the hand of his sovereign, George the Fourth, prove, and its beauty: whilst some few, (for instance, Mr. around the hoary brows of his sire, who was created a Macneill of Colonsay,) have planted it to a considerable barcnet at the age of almost a hundred years, on account
extent. Birch, which mingles its light foliage so gracefully of his son's services.
with the loftier trees of the forest, is also sacrificed to its GLEN FINNAN at the head of Loch Shiel, a long narrow bark, and the more material value of its wood, in furnishing arm of the sea, surrounded by high mountains, is the spot casks for the herring fishery : oak, though preferable for at which the Pretender raised his standard. A monument, the latter purpose, being too expensive for common use. in commemoration of the event, has been erected here by The fir-forests belong more properly to the internal and the late Mr. Macdonald, of Glenaladale. The road from eastern parts of Scotland, and will be hereafter noticed. hence passes through scenery variegated with broken and At BORRODALE, on the beach, resides Mr. Maclonald. rugged rocks, copse, woods, and bare tracts of heather, in-By the road-side is a niche enshrining the mutilated figures terspersed with numerous small lochs, some of which are of the Virgin and Child, indicating the religion of the adorned with exquisitely beautiful islets, waving with proprietor. His garden contains the cave in which the graceful foliage, and then, winding through a wooded Pretender found his first and last asylum. The peculiar defile, skirts the bays and promontories of Loch Ay!och, interest which belongs to this tale of modern romance, is under bare and towering heights, amidst a rich profusion that it has occurred within the recollection of our fathers. of oak, ash, and birch, shrouding the rugged outline of the The lady may still be seen at hier window in the Prince'scoast, and dipping their branches into the sea.
street of Edinburgh, in whose cap the Pretender placed a On what accidlerts may depend the impression made on tower, when her nurse ran forth into the street, to interthe mind of the traveller! Had the storin which belel Dr. ce le for the cessation of his martial music, lest it should Johnson, off this coast, compelled him to take shelter in disturb her mother who had but just given birth to this one of its delicious natural harbours, he would have child. Most Scotsmen have conversed with veterans who imagined himself transported to some enchanted land, and were out in the Forty-five, and fought at Culloden; and the descriptive powers of the author of Rasselas would the daughter of Flora Macdonald is yet living, and bas have been taxed to portray the reverse of that picture returned, after several years of absence, to her native land. which he has drawn, of the dreariness of this country. Many Highland names have been ennobled by the achieve
The western coasts of Scotland, and the eastern shores ments of these rebellious campaigns. Trophies and relics, of the Southern Hebrides, afford abundant proofs of their swords and snuff-boxes, are handed down to posterity, in having been once much overgrown with oak; whilst the in-proof of distinguished valour, and the farour of an exiled terior of the country was covered with fir. The bog-timber prince. The music and poetry of Scotland have been enfound on the coast is usually that of oak; whilst in the in- listed on the side of a young hero struggling to recover a terior it is of fir: alder prevailing naturally along the water-throne. The designation of “ Pretender," applied to courses. The destruction of the ancient forests is roundly Charles Edward, would be still held treason, if not sacriattributed, by tradition, to the Danes, the formidable foe's lege, in many a Highland home. I heard the title of who, during so many centuries, harassed Scotland by per- Prince Charles bestowed on him by a popular minister in petual descents; and doubtless, they, like the Romans in a wealthy town in the eastern part of Scotland, who, England, and other invaders, extirpated, as far as possible, preaching on fidelity, animated his hearers by reference to the forests, inasmuch as they were the fastnesses of the well-known instances of faithfulness to him during his natives. The winds accelerated the devastation wbich had flight. Honour, generosity, heroism, loyalty, fidelity, all thus commenced, especially the south-west, appropriately the elements of that chivalry, the decline of which aroused called, in Cornwall, the south-west shears; its destructive the indignant eloquence of Burke, are indissolubly attached influence being attested by the direction in which the trunks to the glory and defeat of this extraordinary arirenturer, of the trees in the bogs are generally found lying, from though the character of the Pretender was unworthy of his south-west to north-east: and the progress of population cause, supposing it just, and the conduct of his followers and of cultivation, has unfortunately consummated the rava exhibited an extravagant mixture of noble and degrading ges thus produced by hostile or physical aggression. The motives. The error of the Highlanders, in joining the disturbed state of these regions, precluded the landed Pretender, was chiefly of judgment. The unconstitutional proprietors from adorning their estates, or enriching them proceedings of James the Second, which produced the with timber, which might, ere it reached its proper growth, Revolution, were unknown, or unintelligible, to this people, fall beneath the axe of an invader: hence the almost whilst the exiled family were associated in their minds total deficiency of those magnificent forests of oak, those with the heroism of Montrose and Dundee, and the new “tall ancestral trees," which dignify the seats of our dynasty with the victory of Killikrankie and the massacre country gentlemen, and are protected by them, with of Glenco. The religion of the Stuarts presented addihereditary veneration; and unfortunately, unaccustomed tctional claims to the conscientious support of the Catholic regard trees as essential to the beauty or value of an estate, population, on whose shores Charles Edward descended. their descendants have hitherto little cherished those oaks There was at the heart's core of the Highlanders, notwhich nature has reared in sheltered parts, where unmo- withstanding the base alloy with which purer motives were lested. The speedily accruing profit yielded by the bark corrupted, a principle of loyalty, so deeply seated in our of the oak, the tree being cut down for the purpose of breasts, that metaphysicians might find it difficult to deterEtripping off its bark, at the age of twenty years inland, mine whether it is derived from a traditionary source, or and of twenty-four years on the coast, the difference of is implanted by that Hand which, whilst forming our moral exposure occasioning the variety in the comparative constitution, provided also for our social condition. The growth, offers immediate temptation to prevent its further “ Divine right of kings' is an exploded doctrine ; but the progress. In some places in the west, the tenants retain, in sentiment, the feeling, the principle of attachment to the virtue of a servitude, as it is technically called, the privilege monarch, depends not upon abstract axioms of government, of cutting down the wood, for the purpose of building their or accidental political creeds. It is found most powerful boats. The Iron Furnaces of Bunawe have devastated the and influential where these are least understood : among wooded pass of Awe, and the neighbouring heights. So the Celtic portion of our nation, the Welsh, the Highmany conspiring causes have necessarily almost denuded landers of Scotland, and the Irish, and among the ScandiScotland of its oak. Of the ancient oak-forests, the navian tribes, instructed in the simple rudiments of historemains yet growing are very scanty.
Dr. Macculloch rical and religious lore. discovered two trunks of oak, in Glen Etive, the circum Sympathy with suffering has been represented by Adam ference of one of which was twenty-five feet, and the other, Smith, in his celebrated treatise, as proportioned to the twenty; pollarded, but shooting forth fresh branches: and station of the sufferer; and he illustrates his statement wthers on the bank of Loch Sunart, the age of which he by reference to the extraordinary and apposite instance of calculated, at the least, at six centuries; one of them was the pity manifested to James the Second after his downlwenty-five feet in girth. These were the only living fall, having almost occasioned a counter-revolution. The proofs and remains of the ancient forests of oak, which he overthrow of the last Gustavus of Sweden was almost met with. To the oaks which have survived the age at prevented by the refusal of his guards to oppose him, which they might be cut down for bark, are maturing into though the army had suffered the most dreadful privations valuable timber, and are already ornamental, the western and misery from his folly. The aim and intent of the coast owes much of its scenery. The timber has gradually | French Revolutionary disturbers was to extirpate loyalty
to kings, as intimately blended with that allegiance to the The castle, the residence of Lord Macdonald, is yet King of kings, against which they waged implacable war: unfinished : its architecture is Gothic: it is erected on the and they succeeded, in prosecution of this purpose, in sub-shore amidst young plantations which even now adorn the verting almost all the ancient dynasties of Europe; and island, and contrast beautifully with the boid and rugged their principles have been partially disseminated, and are coasts on the opposite shore of the Sound. Lord Macstill diffusing their poison in these islands. The Scottish | donald is the representative of the ancient Lords of the Highlanders have been remarkably characterized by their Isles, and proprietor of two-thirds of the Isle of Sky, and instinctive regard to the Divine maxims, “ Fear God and of the whole of the island of North Uist. Whilst the honour the King," though their loyalty has been perverted, central and more peopled parts of the kingdom are and their religion debased by superstition; and the genius gradually drawing the landlords from their remote and lessof Walter Scott, like that of Chatham, found in the rebel- frequented abodes, and the further parts of Scotland suffer lious spirit of the last century, that mainspring of loyalty materially the ill-effects of absenteeism, it is gratifying to which he touched with such magical effect, when, whilst perceive such an exception to the general practice exhithe “clans of Culloden mustered in our own day around bited by the lord of such extensive possessions. The the descendant of the Stuarts in dutiful and enthusiastic branch of the clan Macdonald, of which Lord Macdonald allegiance, he reininded their chiefs, individually, as they is chief, boasts of producing one of Buonaparte's most sat around his hospitable board, clad in their respective celebrated marshals. And it was no less indicative of the tartans, himself assuming in compliment to them, the garb tenacity of the attachment of the islanders to the stock of the Gael, of the train which the ancestor of each led from which they sprung, than creditable to the individual to the standard of Charles !
in the instance alluded to, that the marshal Macdonald, At Arisaig there is a Ferry to Sky: a species of convey- whose grandfather had fled to France in consequence of ance very different from that which the Southerns under his participation in a rebellion, sought out, after the conclustand by such a mode of proceeding, and implying, in this sion of the last war, his relatives in Uist, an island which instance, a transit of fifteen miles,—the delay in preparing few Scotchmen have visited, discovered them, and granted the boat, which lies two miles distant from Arisaig,—the to them pensions. Lord Macdonald enjoyed the satisfaccatching the boatmen, the clearing the coast, the manage- tion of receiving his distinguished clansman at his castle. ment of intricate tides and conflicting winds, and the The cemetery, which encloses the parish-church of SlEAT, probability of a thorough ducking.
contains some old monuments of the Macdonalds: chiefly It was in the evening that I embarked; and we strove flat stones, on which are represented various emblems of with breakers two hours before we fairly got to sea. The mortality: a coffin headed by a skull, a bell, spade, shovel, ominous heights of Rum portended mischief, and a few cross-bones, and an hour-glass. Within the church is a squalls deepened the gloom of the night, whilst the cries monument bearing a well-merited and panegyrical inscripof the divers, like the voices of condemned spirits, mingled tion, erected to the memory of Sir James Macdonald, with the moanings of the blast. One of the boatmen ancestor of the present lord, who died in his youth at Rome. beguiled the tediousness of the passage by recounting his The minister of the parish was employed in catechising adventures on those seas, especially off the outer coast of some of his flock, preparatory to the celebration of the the Long Island, on which the whole weight of the Sacrament, and the road was thronged with people hastenAtlantic rolls with unbroken fury. The sea which sets ing to the spot. The eastern coast of Sky is agreeably into the Sound between Sky and the main land is often diversified by wood, other parts of the coasts of the island tremendous: but boats take refuge in the excellent harbours having been stripped of it, and also by cultivation. The which indent the coast.
little bay and castle of Knock form a picturesque scene; SKY; ARMADALE; BROADFORD; SLEAT; SA in all its expanse enclosed by rugged mountains. Beyond
whilst opposite to Loronsay, Loch Nevis opens to the view, CRAMENT; BAPTISMAL CONTROVERSY;
a dreary moor of some miles, towers a lofty peak, shaped ROADS.
like Vesuvius, called Ben na Cailich, or the Old Woman's We reached Armadale at 10 o'clock. The absence of Mountain, a name frequently bestowed on mountains in Lord Macdonald, the hospitable laird of this part of Sky, Scotland, and usually, as in this instance, attributed to the rendered a letter of introduction unavailing, though, circumstance of its elevated summit being the burial-place doubtless, an application to his steward would have secured of a Norwegian Princess, selected by herself
, that her a prompt reception. It was necessary, therefore, to seek dirge might be sung by the breezes which blew from her the Inn: a little girl trotted forward and soon led me to a native land. At its base stretches the bay of Broadford, row of fishing-huts, imbedded in a hollow scooped out of and on its shore the village, consisting of few houses and the hill-side, one of which proved to be the Inn, contain the mansion of Mr. Mackinnon of Corryatachan, the aning two extremely small apartments: one the kitchen, cient hospitality of which has been celebrated by Pennant without windows, 'its wall completely cased in soot, and and Johnson; and its reputation has been well sustaine! apparently, as far as the eye could penetrate the dense by its present possessor, who was born in the house at the atmosphere of smoke, crowded with inmates, whilst large time of Dr. Johnson's visit*. quantities of fish and meat occupied the small interval On Sunday the Sacrament was celebrated at Sleat; the between their heads and the ceiling, from which these scene was singular, and highly interesting. Four tents stores depended. The other apartment was clean, and were erected by the road-side, on a plot of ground surfurnished with a bed; but as this was occupied by a young rounded by steep banks.
About fifteen hundred persons leddy. it was necessary that a bedding should be spread were assembled on the occasion to witness, or partake of for me upon the floor. On my demurring to this arrange the ordinance; and as but a small portion of them could be ment, the young leddy disappeared, and the apartment was accommodated under the coverings, the rest sat contented appropriated to the stranger. But never was a first ray of during several hours under heavy rain. About three light more welcome than that which entered the single hundred and fifty persons communicated. A service in the pane with which the chamber was furnished. Had M. Gaelic language preceded, consisting of a prayer, a sermon, Simond, one of the most creditable of French travellers, and hymns. The tables used on the occasion were formed slept at the inn of Armadale, he might have been war. of long planks, about two feet in breadth, resting on clods ranted in indulging the following triumphant remark to of earth, and raised about a foot from the ground, and they which he is prompted by the exultation induced by the were covered by a roller of white cloth. The guests, who recollection of a single night passed in the Highlands, at lined them on both sides, severally restored a leaden token, a comfortable little inn forsooth. He observes, on the which they had previously received, to the elder who applied strength of this achievement, “The English are spoiled for it. The ministers, taking their station at the head of children: they gain nothing by the convenience with which the respective tables, then delivered an appropriate exhorthey travel in their own country, but susceptibility of suffer- tation, and the bread and wine were passed from one pering when they quit it, however apathetical and incapable son to another. The address at one of the tables was in of feeling (blasés) they appear whilst they remain in it." | English, and this was attended by the gentry; it was The landlord and landlady of this hovel were respectable, chiefly explanatory of the nature of the rite. The ministers and apparently above their low situation. The bad ac of three out of the seven parishes of Sky assisted. Among commodation which travellers meet with, both in their the persons present was an old farmer, ninety-six years of passage to Sky and their arrival on the island, must be age, who was quite blind; and an old veteran soldier, of attributed partly to the preference usually given to the the 92nd regiment, who had served during the whole of shorter transit at the upper part of the Sound, and partly to the hospitality of the laird of Armadale
* The gentleman alluded to, Mr. Mackinnon, is since dead.
VIEW OF THE CASTLE OF ARMADALE, ISLE OF SKY. the Peninsular war and at Waterloo, and is now reposing | ration for the administration of the rite, the pristine sim. under his well-carned laurels : he had been remarkable for plicity of the mode of celebration, the impressive tone of his prowess, and, on one occasion, near the Pyrenees, the exhortations usually delivered by the clergy on the occawhen a Highland officer, a Macdonald, who was rallying sion, combined with an entire exemption from those fana. his troops, exclaimed, “Will no man follow me ?" “ Yes." tical excesses which too frequently characterize large and replied this brave fellow, “ the son of your father's herd protracted assemblages of people for religious purposes, will follow you."
must be regarded as calculated to produce a deep and The minister conducted us to the Manse, where refresh- beneficial impression, both on those who partake of the rite, ments were prepared for a large company, where many and of those who witness its celebration. guests, including several military officers, were assembled. Sky had been the scene of a controversy, upon the We then adjourned to the church, where the minister, who subject of baptism; a minister of one of its parishes having had officiated in English at the Sacrament, performed a been suspended by the presbytery, on the ground of his service in the sume language.
having refused the rite to some of the children of bis The Presbyterian church differs from the Episcopalian parishioners. According to the practice of the Scottish in its view of the sacramental rite. By the former it is church, parents are the only sponsors of their children, and never privately administered to persons disqualified by the stricter part of the clergy require not only the sickness, or other cause, from attending the public ordi- knowledge of the elements of Christianity, but abstinence nance. The Sacrament of the Lord's Supper is con- from gross vice, -as a qualification for the privilege of sidered as a public festival; it usually occupies four days; presenting their children to the minister for baptism. The two previous to the celebration of the ordinance, one of power of withholding it, is considered as a check upon the which is observed as a fast, and another subsequent, a conduct of the parents; whilst the children are subsequently daily examination of the candidates and preaching taking admitted to baptism, when capable of comprehending the place. It is held once or twice a year at the most in the nature of the rite, if not debarred from receiving it by western and more sequestered districts of Scotland, but misconduct. The sentence of the Presbytery, in the more frequently in the eastern; and the astendance of present instance, was confirmed by the Synod, and subpersons from other parishes is discouraged by the ministers, sequently by the general assembly, but afterwards reversed as they consider it productive of irregularity. The reasons by that body: the minister was reinstated usually assigned for the infrequency of the Sacrament is, The Isle of Sky is traversed by the Parliamentary roads the great expense which the entertainment incidental to it which complete the communication with the chain of occasions to the minister, and which he is ill able to afford, islands called the Long Island, and afford to its numerous as well as the difficulty and inconvenience attending the cattle, as well as to those of Sky, the advantage of access to congregation of people during the period prescribed. The the markets of the south. The public expenditure being half cxhortations delivered on the occasion differ widely, accord the whole incurred in the formation of these roads is fully ing to the various views entertained by ministers, in regard justified by the national as well as local benefits resulting. to the importance and real nature of the rite itself, and of Individual proprietors would have been incapable of sustainthe requisite qualifications for partaking of it. Whilst ing the cost, as toll-gates produce a surplus on only three of one party in the Church are charged with being too indis- the Highland roads; a toll-bar in Sky would not pay the recriminate and lax, in their admission of persons to the quisite expense. The projection of these roads does great ordinance; the ministers of the other are said to drive their credit to the late Mr. Charles Grant, long representative for parishioners from the table by their terrifying representa- the County of Inverness, and other Members of Parliations and rigorous requisitions. However opinions may ment, who had visited Scotland and seen the need of differ on the merits of this controversy, the solemn prepa- | them. The old military roads did not reach the Islands.
P. S. Q. R.
LONDON : Published by JOHN WILLIAM PARKER Wist STRIND ; and sold hy all Booksellers.