a lecture on chymistry. It was one of a short | through the rocks and hills, and reminding you of popular course given by a professor to the public; and it was manifestly under the patronage of this gentleman, himself a scientific man. He invited our attendance, and we gave a cheerful compliance. The lecture was well prepared and illustrated, but the apparatus was poor, and indicated that this was a young experiment. There were from twenty to thirty young persons present, and there might have been more, had not the evening put on a threatening aspect. Our stranger-friend still continued his attentions on our return; we became revealed to each other; he pressed us to pass the night under his hospitable roof, and with such evident cordiality, as to make us as greatly his debtors as though we had done so.

taken in large quantities; and, on this account, I should think, must do harm to many persons. They are, however, not disagreeable, and have undoubiedly excellent properties.

The chief amusements of the place are, a visit to Lake George; fishing at Ballston; a drive out and in again; and an occasional ball, got up at one hotel, by a subscription made at all. The only sight was a Panorama of Geneva, which I had seen in London, and was glad to see again, that I might be transported to Europe and Leicestersquare. There is certainly gambling going on here; but, if seen, it must be sought for. On the contrary, there is one hotel, and that first-rate, which has the denomination of the Religious Hotel. Its name preserves its character; the religious are attracted by it; and as clergymen are usually staying here, domestic worship is observed, and not only most of the occupants, but many from the other inns attend. It is also worthy of remark, that in this place, so lately risen from the forest, and raised for purposes of fashion, and having so very small a resident population, there is an adequate supply of churches, even when the company is largest.

Our affectionate friends had urged me to pass some days here as favorable to my health, and I came on with the intention of doing so. But on an exact comparison of what I felt it desirable to do, and of the time within which it must be done, I was obliged to abandon the idea. The next day, therefore, we left, to fulfil some engagements in Albany on the Sabbath; and with small or no expectation of seeing Saratoga again.

We found our worthy friend, Dr. Sprague, ready to receive us. Dr. Ferris, of the Dutch Church, was ill; and as his charge would have been without a minister, we undertook to preach for him. It is a fine old church, in English style; like many of our churches, erected in bad taste, but preserving a respectable and venerable aspect. The order of worship in this body deviates a little from what is usual. There is first an intercessory prayer; then a blessing is pronounced in scriptural terms on the people; then the ten commandments are read, and some portions of Seripture. Afterward there is singing; prayer; the sermon; prayer; singing; and then the benediction. There was a good attendance, and, I should think, by persons of worthy character and respectable habits.

thing was, in fact, the contrariety between the preacher's manner and his composition. The one was coldness itself; while the other was inflated to an extreme. It abounded in exclamations, and ended in an apostrophe, which issued as from marble lips, and froze as they fell. I enjoyed the psalms, which were sung to some of our old and good psalmody, though few united, and though the poor organ did us little service.

There is in this plain church a pew which attracts attention, and is meant to do so. It is composed of two, and is as large and splendid as a mayor's; and has a showy lamp chandelier suspended over it. When the owner of this dress box attends it is lighted, to notify his presence to the gazing congregation. He was present on this occasion, and exhibited a gold chain, like our sheriffs. This gentleman is from England, they say; he makes large gifts and large charges; and has succeeded by dash. How many have done so both in the old and new world! But is it not a profanity, as well as a folly, when these vanities are carried into our temples, and are made to give to the house of God the aspect of the theatre ?

The following day we made an excursion to Troy. It is a handsome town, of very rapid growth. The people are energetic, and of public spirit; and are following fast after Albany in ornamental buildings and general improvement. We made calls here on Drs. Beman and Tucker; and visited a school, which was said to have claims on attention. Dr. Tucker accompanied us on our return; and we made a call on General Van Rensselaer. He is the Patroon, or Lord of the Manor here; and is considered the greatest landholder in the United States. What is better, he is a most amiable man and promotes the comfort of his tenants, and the spirit of wise improvement around him; and, what is still better, the amiable and respectable portions of his character are based and sustained on religious principles and exercises. He had presided at several of the public meetings at New York; and we were welcomed as friends. The house stands on rather low ground; but it commands a pleasant view of the Mohawk river and of Troy in the distance. The gardens are much better than are usual here, and remind one of England; though they incline rather to the Dutch than the English style. There is little, if any, that we should call pleasureIn the afternoon I was engaged to preach at Dr. ground; and there is no attempt at landscape gar Sprague's and to baptize his infant son. The ad-dening. We walked round the grounds, and conministration follows the first singing. The persons waiting for the ordinance are requested to present themselves. They come out before the pulpit. The minister addresses them; and descends, to baptize the child. He then ascends to the pulpit, renews his address, or offers praver; which, after specially noticing the subject before the congregation, becomes the general prayer. Then follow singing, and the sermon as usual. This church is of full dimensions, and although the afternoon was wet, it was quite filled. There was great attention on the part of the auditory, and many were much affected. I desired to improve the evening by uniting with some congregation in worship. We found one church shut, and another without its pastor; and at last entered somewhat later than we wished the Episcopal Church, which we found open, but which was also deprived of its regular teacher. It is small; and there were not above 150 persons present. The preacher was a mathematical professor; and if in his place in the chair, he is certainly out of it in the pulpit. His subject was man's mortality; and as it had been preceded by the affecting prayer for deliverance from cholera, and as that disease was in the town, it should have told in some degree. Yet it interested no one. The only remarkable

versed pleasantly, and then took our leave. I was afterward invited to dine, but could not avail myself of the kindness intended.

LETTER XX.

MY DEAR FRIEND-On the 19th, I left for Utica. Mr. Matheson had left the previous evening to attend the commencement at New Haven. As I had come in this direction chiefly for the sake of making myself acquainted with the revivals, for which the western part of this State was famous; and as I had not yet accomplished this object, I was constrained to tarry, with the understanding that we should meet again at Amherst.

I went as far as Schenectady by the rail-road. I was assured that when there I should find a coach waiting to convey me on to Utica, a distance of about eighty miles. The coach was indeed there; but the proprietor was there likewise, and his business was to ascertain whether enough would offer to go by it "to make it worth his while." His decision in this instance, was against its running; not perceiving that by this short-sighted policy he gave uncertainty to a public conveyance, and thus discouraged the public from using it. My only alter

native was to go by the packet-boat, which was preparing to start immediately.

I was thus committed to a mode of travelling which at this unhealthy season I most wished to avoid. But I was on the Erie Canal, and it was some satisfaction that I should have a fair opportunity of inspecting what, as a work of art stands unrivalled by any other effort of this enterprising people. This canal is 360 miles long, and has a branch canal running off to Lake Champlain, which is sixty miles in length. It has eighty-three locks, and eighteen aqueducts; one of which is about 1,200 feet. It is forty feet wide on the surface, and about four feet deep. It and the branch canal were completed in less than nine years, at an expense of 9,000,000 dollars. The object is to connect the Hudson, and therefore New-York, on the one hand, with Lake Champlain, and thus with Canada; and on the other, to unite it with Lake Erie, and with the other mediterranean seas of that region, and by consequence with the Ohio and the Mississippi. The Americans owe this to the genius and patriotism of De Witt Clinton, one of the greatest men that country ever saw; and when we consider the extent of route, the countries it connects, and the influence it will have on those countries, done as it is by so young a people, and with so little disposable capital, it is above comparison, and above praise.

further districts of this State, have taken offence at
such homespun appellatives, and have songht to be
very classical in their designations. So that, in
fact, within a small limit, you get the strangest jum-
ble of English, Dutch, German, Indian, Roman,
and Greek terms, imaginable. The attempts at
what is classical, too, are often very ridiculous.—
You have, for instance, Utica in Ulysses, and other
such varieties.
If we

Every disadvantage has its counterpart.
had a host of people crammed into a little boat, it
gave one an opportunity of observing, unobserved,
the unconstrained manners of the passengers. Din-
ner brought us all together; and put us on a degree
of intercourse. It appeared that about twenty on
board were of one party; and that they were dele-
gates to a convention of mechanics which was to
be held at Utica, against what they termed the
State Prison Monopoly. The ground of complaint
was, that the convicts were employed at several
trades, and that the articles so manufactured were
sold at a price below that of the honest and inde-
pendent tradesman. It was evident that this dele-
gation was composed of the successful and supe-
rior manufacturers of New-York. They were a cu-
rious assemblage of persons: Dutch, Irish, Scotch,
English, and American. Their numbers gave
them confidence; and they were the great people
of the day.

When the dinner was over, they professed to hold, by anticipation, a meeting of the delegates; but the design was rather to discuss some champaign than any business. I took a book, and remained at a little distance. A president was chosen; and the wine was brought forward. It was to be

There was much business on this water-thoroughfare. The boats for the transit of goods were called "line-boats," and those for passengers, "packets." The packets were a sort of mail; they are drawn by three horses at a slow trot; and do not clear more than four miles an hour. With some twenty persons, our packet might have been tolera-seasoned by toasts and songs. Mr. A———, a Scotchble; but it so happened that we had from sixty to seventy passengers on board, and there was much to bear. For all these persons, male and female, there was only one room, to live, and meal, and sleep in, of about twelve feet by seventy. There were curtains, indeed, provided, which might separate a portion from the rest when needful; still the dimensions were the same.

man, was called on to sing. He had reputation in this way, and brought applause about him. His song was a hit at Lords and Kings, and a commendation of manliness in man. The president then gave, "The independent mechanic;" which was, of course, drunk with "great enthusiasm." Then came, "The mechanics of the State, and may the cause they are in prosper," with "three times three," and a song. One of the delegates then proposed, "The health of JL, Esq. which was chairman of the committee which brought up the first report."

During the day, we could relieve ourselves by going on the roof of the boat; and this is a desirable place, both for air and the sight of the country. But we had difficulties here. There was no provision against a burning sun; and the bridges were so There was one person among them who declinnumerous and so low as to be exceedingly trouble-ed the wine; and he was joked as a water-drinker some, and, if you were negligent, somewhat dan- and a Temperance man. He had not, however, gerous. It was part of the duty of the helmsman confidence to avow himself, though he had to refuse to observe these, and give notice of them by the the wine. He met their gibes with good temper; cry of "Bridge?" It was some time before we got and gave as a toast, "May he that has power to help drilled to it; and when we were, it was an amusing us, and does not, want a cup of cold water." This spectacle. Some twenty men would be standing, uncharitable sentiment conciliated their prejudices, sitting, and looking about in all directions, and va- and they kept on good terms with him. riously engaged; but, at the cry of "A bridge!" they would repeat the cry as the papist would his prayers, and fix their eyes in one direction; and when the object came, they would prostrate themselves on the floor as at the ringing of the bell and the elevation of the host.

The country through which we were passing was worth observation. It is the Mohawk Valley, and watered by the river of that name; and formerly possessed by the people of that name, the finest of the Indian nations. It is of great extent; very beautiful and fertile; has been long settled, and shows, in an unusual degree, good cultivation. The upper portion was chiefly settled by Germans, and the part we were passing through by the Dutch. Everywhere you meet with marks of their taste in the farming; the form, and party-colored houses; and along the banks of the canal, you have towns with the names of Rotterdam, Amsterdam, and Frankfort, to them. Settlers of later date, and in

These men were evidently not accustomed to the use of wine, and they used it inordinately. The tumbler was, in some cases, preferred to the glass. As the wine entered, the wit, such as it was, got out; it was witless and vile enough. But I took warning, and went above.

Their potations of wine heated them, and made them restless; and they soon followed me to the roof. Here they amused themselves with all manner of boyish tricks and practical jokes. They knocked each other's hats off; jumped on shore, chased each other. One of them got possession of a horse, and mounted; another hung on its tail; while a third seized the rein and tried to dismouni the rider. He, to free himself, pricked the horse; the animal knocked down the man who had the rein, and left him rolling into the canal. The enacting of this scene, like the fifth aet of a comedy, brought merriment to a crisis; and was attended by roars of laughter.

Then came the deductions on a course of folly; | were fast asleep, and were assuring you of it by fatigue, discomfort, ennui, and, with the better sort, muttering and noisy respiration. The sight was shame and regret. It was, certainly, but a poor really a singular one. The room was packed all specimen of the tradesmen of a great city. They round, from top to bottom, with living beings. The were well dressed, indeed, and had much rough en- tables, the settees, the floor, all covered. My chairs ergy of character; but, with one or two exceptions, had scarcely a place to stand; and two persons lay nothing more of a favorable complexion can be at my feet, and one at my elbow. Two lines of educed. If any one of them professed religion, it cord had been carried down the ceiling of the room, was not seen here. Sorry I am to say, that the two that the spare garments might be hung on them. worst were an Irishman and a Scotchman. Here, then, was an exhibition of coats, trowsers, waistcoats, cravats, and hats, worthy of Monmouth street; the great evil of which was, that it cut off the little chances of ventilation. Two glimmering, unsnuffed candles, gave sepulchral lights to the whole.

The ladies who were on board were prudent; two or three of them pious. Two of them came out into the prow of the vessel, and seated themselves near me, that they might enjoy the fine moonlight scenery, and rid themselves of disquiet within. The younger one observed, with a plaintive air, "that she loved to sit out in moonlight, because it mellowed all the finer sentiments of the soul." The elder one, who did not, in the least, comprehend the subject, remarked, " that she did not see it was so melancholy as people said." Both, however, seemed able to connect the things made with the Hand that made them.

Occasionally, however, the scene was animated. The vessel was liable to sharp jerks on entering the locks; and when these occurred, you might see some dozen heads starting from the sides, like so many turtles from their shells; with a suitable accompaniment of wild and sleepy exclamations; and then again they were drawn in, and all was still. I fell into a short slumber, and reproached myself for doing so; when I awoke I found my foot in the face of another sleeper; and as the night wore away, most of them getting into similar predica. ments. But the great evil of the place arose from the confined and suffocating state of the air, shut out, as it was, from all external influence. It indisposed me, and before four o'clock I was on the roof again. Never shall I forget that night.

The fogs lay heavily all around us, and after

But night came, and with it, it was needful to look to sleeping accommodation. From all appearances, it did not seem that any provision could be made for this purpose. It was soon shown how much contrivance could do, if it could not do all that the occasion required. The curtains I named were dropped over one third of the room, and thus made a division for the ladies and children. Our portion of the room was cleared. A set of frames, like larger shelves, were produced; and were sus-making the best of it for an hour, I was getting pended behind, by hinge and pivot, to the side of the vessel, and in front, by a small cord attached to the ceiling. Three tier of these were carried round the room, which was not more than six feet high; so that it had the appearance of being filled, from top to floor, with small bins. Then all the tables were collected, and placed down the middle of the room, as far as they would go. The settees were employed to fill in any possible spaces; and after all this accommodation was disposed of, it was plainly understood that there remained just the floor.

ter.

The captain, a civil man, proposed that the company should choose births as their names stood on his list, which was filled in as they came on board. As the delegates were the first, he knew that this would satisfy them; and this was not a small matBy the same rule, I knew that I should come nearly last; an issue the captain wished to avert, but to which I was really indifferent, for I shrunk altogether from any accommodation among so many, and in so small a space. The names were called, and the births chosen, and the possessors began to "turn in." I retreated from the noise and confusion, once more, to the roof; and out-watched the setting moon. As the moon fell, the damps arose; and it was needful to walk to prevent cold. All was now hushed; except here and there the helmsman's voice broke sharply on my ear, to warn me of "A bridge." I could hear my foot fall; and as it fell over the multitude slumbering beneath it, it seemed like a living entombment of my fellowmortals.

very chilly, and was fearful of the consequences. I went down, and stood awhile at the doorway; desirous of escaping the smells within, and the damp wind without. They were now generally seeking to dress; but this was no easy matter. One had lost his boots, another his hat, another his cravat, another his money, and another his-every thing. Then there were outcries, and searchings, and exchanges; in seeking one article, a score would be thrown out of place; and so it went on till confusion was twice confounded.

Early in the day, I landed at Utica. It is a fine, thriving town; free from all signs of age or poverty; and resembling the many towns which are found on this line from Albany to Buffalo. Sickness was prevailing here. The Rev. Mr. Aitkin was just leaving, with an invalid wife, and he himself fell sick the following day. My friend, Mr. Bethune, had left his charge here; and I was indebted to the Rev. Mr. Hopkins for much kind attention in his absence.

As I could not stay more than a couple of days, it was necessary that I should begin instantly to im prove the time. Mr. Hopkins attended me to Oneida Institution, Hamilton College, and such objects in the town as were deserving of attention. On the previous Thursday, the place had been visited by a severe storm; and the effects were everywhere apparent. One church tower was swept away; thirteen houses were unroofed; and trees without number, in the environs, were uprooted and lying in ruin. In ruin, however, the suburbs were still pleasing. I was referred to a dwelling of special pretensions; and was told that it was built in imitation of the English cottage. Greatly would they be deceived who should take it for a sample. Of this English cottage, the body is Gothic; the parapet of no style; and the portico Grecian. But what of this! It is only such a combination as we see in the neighborhood of Westminster Hall.

Still the damps and cold increased; and I was constrained to screen myself as I could below. Two or three gentlemen offered to relinquish their births in my favor; but I could not expose others to privation to escape it myself; and my resolution had been previously taken, not to lie down that night. I took a couple of chairs, and placing them as near the door as practicable, I lounged on them in such a way as to rest the body, and possibly to forget my-manding spot; and is in a thriving state. It had self for a few minutes.

It was now beyond midnight; and nearly all

The Hamilton College occupies a very com

languished under some pecuniary difficulties; but Professor Dwight had used his influence in its

favor, and had raised a large sum for its relief. Unhappily, the professor was not at home, nor was the College in session.

I ascertained that there were some Congregational churches in this district, and I called with Mr. Hopkins on Dr. Morton, the Secretary of the Association. We conferred for some time, and I promised to address a fraternal letter to the Association, which promise I afterward redeemed.

lous and dizzy; and when you repose at its feet, and look up, and see only it-hear only it-while its mass of waters, like a bed of rolling, sparkling amber, dash from the rocks above to the deep below, and run foaming and struggling away into the prodigious black basins beneath, you are sensible of its greatness.

The Oneida Institution is about two miles from the town. It is established on the principle of uniting labor with learning, and has Dr. Green at its head. I was conducted over it. It has only been attempted within the last four years; and does not yet amount to even an experiment on the sub-each other. You are in a lovely glen, open to the ject. The young men, at present, are employed on the garden and small farm; and the trades have not yet been tried. The accommodations are of the plainest kind; the library very low; there is a reading-room, having very few books, but supplied with eighteen or twenty newspapers. There is attached to it a smaller provision for boys. I shall have occasion to recur to this subject.

I made, while here, a hasty excursion with my friend, to the Trenton Falls. They are distant about fifteen miles. The road is bad, but the scenery good; the view taken from the hill, about five miles on the way, really magnificent.

The Falls are just as you would desire to find them. There is one inn for your accommodation, and this does not interfere in the least with the seclusion of the object. The same good taste reigns throughout. There are more facilities provided for easy access to these Falls than are common, and yet they are far less obtrusive. Alarm has been taken because some lives were lost here recently; but I know of no great natural curiosity to be seen with less personal danger or discomfort.

I passed upward as far as we can go, and compared the claims of the different cascades. The return still affords you fresh views of the objects you admire. When the eye has got familiar with the place, there is, perhaps, nothing you admire more than the coup d'ail of the whole. The rocks, the waters, the woods, the skies, wonderfully assist sun, but shut up by the rocks and the forest from all things else. Everywhere you may find the most refreshing shade, and everywhere you have the sense of perfect retirement; but always it is the shade and the retirement which have cheerfulness for their companion. You have a pleasurable satisfaction in where you are and what you see; you are not disappointed that you see no more, nor are you overwhelmed that you see so much. It is a place where the spirit may repose; it insensibly inspires you with content, placidity, and elevation. It is one of nature's finest temples, secluded from the world, but open to heaven; where ten thousand worshippers might stand, and whence ten thousand voices might ascend, supported by the deep tones of the Falls, in praise to the Omnipotent Creator.

We took hasty refreshments at the inn, and returned, as I had to preach that evening for my friend. I was not well; for I had taken cold in the boat, as I expected. The weather also, though still warm, had varied by 30°, and, therefore, to sensation was cold, and promoted fever and hoarseness; but as I was announced for the service, I hoped to be able to pass through it. To my surprise, on a few hours' notice, there was a large attendance; and the people were delightfully attentive.

On leaving the hotel, you pass a wicket gate, and find yourself enclosed in a wood. You make a gradual descent, and are then assisted by some step-ladders, which carry you down some rocky On the following evening, I proposed that we steeps. On reaching the foot of these, the woods should have a meeting of ministers and friends for stand up all around you; and below, and before conference and prayer. We had a full room, and you, the dark waters of the river, with their snowy it was increased very pleasantly by the arrival of crests, are chafing and dashing away through an Mr. Hague, from Boston, and Mr. Patton, from immense bed of solid rock, which they have cut New-York. It was to me a delightful and profitfor themselves. You pass along some ledges of able occasion. At this, and at other opportunities, this rock, and the principal Fall is before you. my concern was chiefly to obtain correct informaYou still pursue your way on the rocks, which are tion on the revivals which had occurred in this sometimes contracted to narrow shelves, admitting place, and throughout this line of country. They only one person, and requiring care; but which ge- had been much talked of, and not unfrequently nerally expand into fine terrace-walks, leaving you they had been held up, even by the friends of reat leisure to wander at will. During this prome-vivals, rather as warnings than examples. I had nade, the other Falls make their appearance in succession. This is the great charm of these Falls, and, as I think, their distinguishing characteristic. Their character is the picturesque; and it is this combination, with these successive distances, which compose that character. As you move on, the objects accumulate upon you; you add the second Fall to the first, and the third to the second, and are delighted with your acquisition. You wish continually to pause to admire the picture, with its additional beauties; and you wish to go on, expecting that every step shall make still finer additions. And when you have most in view, the eye may rest on it till it becomes as one to the imagination, having a power and an elevation which do not belong to any separate Fall.

After having taken this combined and characteristic view, you have still to study them in their separate forms, and from nearer points of sight; and they will amply reward you. The principal Fall, especially, asserts its power as you approach it. As you ascend to its head, it supplies you with points of view, which, if occupied, will make you tremu

great reason to be satisfied that I had made this ex-
cursion, not only for the positive information ob-
tained, but also for the assistance it gave me to ma-
ture an opinion on a subject of serious difficulty,
but of cardinal importance.
The notices that,
from their locality, might fall in here, had better
be reserved, with other materials, for separate con-
sideration.

The friends at Utica were exceedingly desirous that I should spend the Sabbath with them; espe cially as Mr. Patton had come to plead the educa tional cause, and pressed for my assistance. It would have given me great pleasure to have met their wishes, but I must have sacrificed some important portions of my plans; and I had "to learn to say no."

LETTER XXI.

MY DEAR FRIEND-Early, therefore, on the morning of the 23d, I left for Albany. I had had enough of the packets, and returned by the stage. I was still unweil from the cold I had taken; and, among