I passed, in this day's ride, the Yellow Springs, and Springfield. The former is a watering-place. There is a fine spring of chalybeate waters; and an establishment capable of receiving from 150 to 200 visiters; it is resorted to for the purposes of The inn at which we stopped is the rendezvous health, hunting, and fishing. Springfield is a flouof the stages. Among others there were two ready rishing town, built among the handsome hills that to start for Cincinnati. Our coach, by arriving at abound in this vicinity. It is one of the cleanest, nine instead of eight, deprived me of the hour brightest, and most inviting that I have seen. But which should have been given to dressing and all the habitations of man were as nothing comparbreakfast. If I went on, I must of necessity go on ed with the forest. I had been travelling through immediately. Time was precious, and I resolved it for two days and nights, and still it was the same. on going. On seeking to engage my place, the en- Now you came to a woodman's hut in the solitudes; quiry was, "Which will you go by, sir; the fast or now to a farm; and now to a village, by courtesy the slow line?" Weary as I was of the slow line, called a town or a city; but it was still the forest. I exclaimed, "O, the fast line certainly!" I quick- You drove on for miles through it unbroken; then ly found myself enclosed in a good coach, carrying you came to a small clearance and a young settlethe mail, and only six persons inside. In this jour-ment; and then again you plunged into the wide, ney we had but three.

brick face, with two brick towers projecting on it, which towers have turrets as heavy as themselves, and which turrets are chiefly remarkable for two dials which exactly agree. When I saw them they both wanted three minutes to six, and I doubt not if I could see them now they still want just three minutes to six. Besides this, there is, as it is called, "Trollope's Folly," an erection in which that lady, thus complimented, exhausted her means, and certainly did not show her taste. I was struck by the number of barbers' shops and groceries, or grogshops; it should seem that no man here shaves himself, and that Temperance has not yet fulfilled its commission. I believe there are not less than 200 grogstores in Cincinnati.

This night I had also to travel, and, weary as I Some of the churches are good, but not remarkwas, I was kept quite on the alert. I had longed to able, except the old Presbyterian Church in the witness a storm in the forest, and this was to hap-main street, which is large and Dutch-built, with a pen earlier than my anticipations. The day had been hot, but fine; the night came on sultry, close, and silent. The beautiful firefly appeared in abundance; summer lightning began to flash across the heavens. All this time clouds were moving from every part of the circumference to the centre of the sky. At length they formed a heavy, dense, black canopy over our heads, leaving the horizon clear and bright. The lightnings, which at first seemed to have no centre, had now consolidated their forces behind this immense cloud, and were playing round its whole circle with great magnificence and brilliancy. Continually the prodigious cloud was getting larger and darker, and descending nearer to us, so as powerfully to awaken expectation. The splendid corruscations which played round its margin now ceased, and all was still. In an instant the forked lightning broke from the very centre of the cloud; the thunder, deep and loud, shook the earth, and rolled and pealed through the heavens; the heavy rain dashed in unbroken channels to the ground; and the mighty winds burst forth in their fury, and roared and groaned among the giant trees of the wood. There were we, in the deep forest and in the deep night, and in the midst of a storm, such as I had never witnessed. O it was grand! God's own voice in God's own temple! Never did I see so much of the poetic truth and beauty of that admirable ode, "The voice of the Lord," &c.

It ceased as suddenly as it began. The winds, which bore the cloud away, left all behind calm; and the firefly, which had been eclipsed or affrighted, re-appeared, and sparkled over us on the profound darkness; and presently the stars of a higher sphere looked forth benignantly on the lower elements, and all was peace.

The early morning found me still travelling, and getting seriously unwell. I thought I must have remained at Lebanon, a town about twenty miles from Cincinnati, to sicken and suffer without a friend; and then all the loneliness of my situation came over me. The stage halted here an hour; this allowed me some time to recover; and I resolved, if it was possible, to go forward to what I might regard as a resting-place.

Happily, every thing was now improving. The road was not unworthy of M'Adam; and we bowled over it at the rate of nine miles an hour. The country was covered with hills, finely wooded, and all about them were spread farms, in a handsome and thriving state of cultivation. Many ornamental cottages now appeared, and the whole subarbs put on a cheerful and beautiful aspect; so that, when you were expecting to reach the extremity of civilized life, every thing was rising into higher civilization. At last we drove into the western metropolis. I had travelled three days and nights; and was so wearied, bruised, and hurt, that I could not, with comfort, sit, lie, or walk. The remainder of this day I spent in my chamber.

Cincinnati is really worthy to be styled a city; and it is a city "born in a day, and in the wilder ness." It has a population of 30,000 persons, and is not more than thirty-six years old. Its streets are composed of transverse lines, and are named a good deal after the manner of Philadelphia, but it has none of its formal aspect. The straight lines are broken by the undulating surface of the ground; the surrounding hills stand up beautifully at the head of all the streets; and the Ohio runs off finely at its feet. There are several good streets; some enlivened by business, and others ornamented by comfortable dwellings and the spreading acacia but there are no very striking objects.

While I was seeking for my friend, Mr. Brainard, I fell in with Dr. Beecher, who insisted on my being at his disposal, and immediately found for me a very friendly reception, in a family resident in the town; but considering that I should have a better chance of health, he proposed that I should go with him to the Walnut Hills, two miles distant. For the reason kindly named, as well as for the pleasure of enjoying his society, I availed myself of the proposal, and became, during my stay, the guest of his family.

the anniversary of the Independence; almost the It happened that I was here on the 4th of July, have a good opportunity of witnessing its observance. only holyday kept in America; and I was glad to The previous evening gave note of preparation, by the continued report of firearms and small guns. In the early morning the young men met at the Mechanics' Institute, to enact in miniature what their fathers were to perform on a larger platform. There was an Ode, and the Declaration, and an Oration, and Yankee Doodle.

The grand fete came afterward. All the trades were to meet, and go in procession to the Fourth church, to join in a semi-religious service. The question of precedence, however, here as elsewhere, is found to be of no easy solution; and some of the companies, in dudgeon on this subject, had refused to take the place assigned to them. There were the butchers, and the carpenters, and the coopers, and few besides. The coopers had a temporary stage, and as they were drawn along they wrought at their business. The butchers, who could not well be so employed, were at liberty to display themselves, and they made the most of it in their way. They were full sixty in number, and were Some decorations all mounted on good steeds. were given to the horse, but many more to the man. It was a sight to see these men dressed out in purple and fine linen. They all had fine frocks on, some muslin; ornamented by silk sash, and scarf, and rosettes. These, with the usual accompaniments of a band of music, and showy colors waving in the air, with the insignia of the company on them, together with the holyday dresses of the spectators, who lined the pathway, composed the exhibition, and gave it a cheerful character.

As the service was to be at Dr. Beecher's church, he was the chaplain for the occasion. I went with him to secure a good sitting; but declined going into the pulpit, or engaging in the exercise, for obvious reasons. The spectacle was singular for a place of worship. There were in the pulpit, the chaplain, the reader of the Declaration in a fustian jacket, and the orator. On their right and left were seated the ensigns, bearing the national colors; and beyond these were resting the flags of the several trades. The companies occupied a large portion

of the area, and the band possessed the gallery.-healthy; there is reason, however, to think that the The church was quite full.

A national air was played by the band. An ode was then sung by the choir, sustained by instruments. Dr. Beecher offered prayer. Then came the Declaration. It was read by a tradesman, who looked intelligent; but he read badly, and what was worse, rather bitterly; and in trying to give those terms which hit the Father Land, a hard and angry expression, he contorted his face so as to be very ridiculous. Another ode followed. Then the oration. It was written; but freely delivered. It showed good parts, manly thinking, and was, on the whole, composed in good taste. There was a reference to the past; a tribute to our common fathers; a eulogy on the constitution; a warning on the danger of disunion, on the one hand, and consolidation on the other; and, finally, an apostrophe to La Fayette. It was national, but not prejudiced. Dr. Beecher admitted, that they seldom on these occasions, had any thing so good. The ode, "Glory to God on high," &c., the music by Mozart, follow-thunder-storm came on, and prevented the service ed, and the exercises closed by a short prayer.

Some of the new made towns present a delightfully religious aspect. Of these I might name Columbus, Zanesville, and Granville. The first has 3,000 persons, and it has three churches and five ministers. The second has 3,200 persons, and six churches. And Granville is a small town, which, I believe, is wholly religious. As a settlement, it deserves notice. It was made by a party of ninety persons from New-England. On arriving at this spot, they gave themselves to prayer, that they might be directed in choosing their resting place in the wilderness, and enjoy the blessing of God. At first, they rested with their little ones in the wagons; and the first permanent building they erected, was a church for divine worship. The people retain the simple and pious manners of their fathers. They all go to church, and there are 400 in a state of communion. They give 1,000 dollars a year to religious institutions. One plain man, who has About noon on the following day we reached never allowed himself the luxury of a set of fire- Louisville, having made a trip of 150 miles. I inirons, besides what he does at home, gives 100 dol-stantly found, on landing, that we had indeed en

tered a slave State. A man of color had offered himself to take my luggage and guide me to the inn. He was running his light barrow before me on a rough pathway. "Remember, Jacob," said a severe voice," there are twenty-one stripes for you -twenty-one stripes, Jacob!" I asked an explanation. He said he was liable to punishment for wheeling on the path. The person who threatened him was a colonel, and I believe a magistrate; and poor Jacob was evidently concerned at being deircted by him, for, he said, he owed him a grudge. I do not answer for the correctness of Jacob's statement; I merely report what occurred.

On arriving at my hotel, I found its master, Mr. Throckmorton, who is a colonel as well as a tavern-I keeper, busily engaged in making and distributing his mint-julap. It is a favorite mixture of spirits, mint, sugar, and water, and he has a high character for the just incorporation of the ingredients. Others were making a free and dangerous use of iced water, a luxury which is provided in great abundance throughout the States. Indeed, the disposition to drink now became intense-we had only to consider how we might safely gratify it. The thermometer rose this day to 100, and the heat and perspiration were intolerable. I was compelled to relieve myself of my upper garments; to throw myself on a naked mattress; and with the windows open, and remaining perfectly still, the perspiration rose on my skin in globes, collected in my hair, and coursed down my face and hands. The discomfort is unspeakable. Every thing you have on feels wet; and if you change your cravat and shirt, they become quickly like wet rags hanging about you. You wonder, at first, to see the men and boys without cravats, and without either waistcoat or coat, and wearing mostly white linen; but when you really get at this temperature you understand it all. This was the hottest week we had; many persons were said to have died on the public ways, and twenty-five persons died at New-York from drinking cold water.

I used here, for the first time, the moscheto bar, as it is called; and it was not before it was needed. It is a gauze-like curtain, made to enclose completely every side of the bed. I thought it would produce, in hot weather, the sense of suffocation, but this is not the effect. On the contrary, when you really know what the bite of this insect is, and hear it singing about your bed, while it is unable to reach you, you have a grateful sense of security from your enemy. On the whole, I suffered but little from this source of annoyance; the common fly was a much greater evil, it is in such abundance, and is so much more obtrusive. It frequently bites and settles on your person and food in a very tormenting way. The refectories, in consequence, are provided with large fans, which are hung over the tables on pivots, and are connected by cords and pulleys, so that they may be worked by a little slave during the period of meals. The accommodations given to the slaves now came under my notice. Where the family is of any consideration, they have usually a distinct, though attached, dwelling. At our hotel, they had at the end of the court-yard a large house, for they were numerous. The house, however, had but few rooms, and there were several beds in each room, so as to show that they were crowded, and that their habits of life were not very favorable to its decencies. I was struck too, perhaps the more, because I had just travelled through Ohio, with the attentions these people offer you. They are trained to do more for you than others, and they mostly do it with a readiness which shows kindness of heart. This certainly affords you personal gratification, and it is only checked when it is remembered that

it is the price of liberty, or when it approaches to the tameness of subserviency.

It became necessary for me now to determine on my course. My considerate friends at Cincinnati had required a promise that I would not go farther by water. I found that to go to St. Louis, and accomplish my objects, would consume a fortnight of my time, which was more than I could spare. Besides this, I was still much indisposed, and disease was prevailing in these regions. I determined, therefore, to quit the vicinage of the rivers, and make my way across Kentucky, in an easterly direction, towards Virginia.

On the following morning I left for Lexington. inquired when the stage would start. “O, between day-break and sun-rise," was the reply"And when is that?"—" O, between four and five o'clock." So that I was obliged to be ready at four, and we did not start till half past five. The morn ing was cool, though the previous day had been so hot. I was refreshed by the air, and got ready for breakfast. Accommodations were made for us in a very primitive cabin, and in a very primitive style. We had, however, a large supply-milk, eggs, coffee, and hot corn-bread, and all was good and clean. The husband and wife presided at each extremity of the table, making us welcome, not indeed with kind words and smiling faces, but with a considerate regard to our wants.

Soon after breakfast we passed through Selby. ville, a stirring, busy village, at which there had recently been a considerable revival. We took in here a Mr. Franklin, who was much disposed to conversation, and who really had much to communicate. He had been the longest settled in that re gion. His father came with him when a child, and was employed by government to survey and let the land. He was shot by the Indians in the very ac of surveying; they could bear any thing better than to see the lands enclosed. He referred me also to an old man in the village, who had killed six Indians in one affray. One would think he had killed them all; for they have all disappeared, and the land is all settled and generally in good keeping. It is worth, on an average, twenty dollars an acre; and, as he remarked, it is cheaper now than when it was bought at two dollars, considering the labor, and blood, and hazard which it had cost. The change was very great to his mind, and he delighted to dwell on it; but it was not always with congratulation. Even of these primitive and rude settlers around him, he was disposed to take up the old complaint of degeneracy. "O, sir!" he would exclaim, "the men are nothing, the women nothing now to what they used to be. I can recollect when the women would do more than the men do now. Every Saturday they devoted to firing at a mark; and they could handle a musket with the best of us."

We dined at a tavern, which is also a post-house. and is kept by "a 'squire." The 'squire, however, was not much of the gentleman; he made a very sorry provision for his passengers, and blustered with them a good deal about politics. My companion took occasion to remark, that he had been put in for the purpose, and that post-houses had been needlessly multiplied with this intention. Certainly the number is enormous; and he remarked, that between Louisville and Orleans there are no less than 126: you must not connect in your ideas the post-horse with the post-house, for here they have no connection. By-the-by, there is no such thing as posting throughout the States.

Early in the afternoon we arrived at Frankfort and were told that we should go no further till ter the next morning. We had come fifty miles, and this was deemed excellent work. Of course I had