of Valetta, and, on the other, country villas and a large quarantine establishment, which, upon examination, we would pronounce by far the most capacious and best located and conducted of any we saw in the Mediter

ranean.

In this harbour we found ourselves safely moored in the midst of the heavy line-of-battle-ships or "wooden walls" of Old England; Malta being a naval rendezvous of inconceivable importance to the British government; and its value infinitely enhanced by the perfect security and ample room and depth which its port offers, being sufficient to hold a vast fleet, and so sheltered as to afford complete protection from the dangers of the sea and from every wind. Though less capacious than many of the admirable harbours on the French coast, it is much better protected, and, taken altogether, is the finest harbour which we saw in the Mediterranean. In viewing the facilities which the French, and English, and Spanish possess for their naval armaments in these seas, we could not help but feel an ardent wish that our own cherished and gallant navy might also here find a safe abiding-place, and proudly see their own star-spangled banner floating on some elevated rock that they could call their own.

The town of Valetta is situated upon a rocky promontory, and, though in sight of Sicily, presents in the character of its architecture the first evidences of an

Oriental city. The population is made up of the greatest imaginable medley of all nations, being a sort of half-way-house to the East. From its being so great a resort of naval officers and of travellers, it furnishes the best of society. To reach the town you ascend a cliff by a variety of curious steps cut in the rock, which are fatiguing and tedious. The population is very numer

ous, and in its aspect peculiarly picturesque, from the diversity of costumes and complexions of the different nations who reside here.

By far the most interesting object in this ancient and peculiar town, is the venerated Cathedral of St. John, where more of the distinguished commanders and officers of the army of the Cross repose than in any other spot in the world. The crusader felt, that if he could return from the holy wars, and lay his bones in this sacred temple, his last and most devout wish would be gratified. This church is of great architectural beauty, and its spacious interior is almost an entire sepulchre; the walls and the floors being everywhere studded and crowded with tablets, busts, banners, hatchments, effigies, and inscriptions, dedicated to the honoured heroes who perished battling in Palestine in the cause of their Master. The admirers of those chivalrous times might linger for days within this holy edifice, in examining these memorials of the Knights of St. John and their companions. They awaken in the mind the most stirring and rapturous feelings, and bring back reminiscences of those thrilling events, that roused into active and daring energy higher moral impulses, and more ardent and impassioned religious devotion, than have ever agitated the world before or since. Whatever ulterior designs may be thought to have influenced some of their leaders, the history of the crusaders presents no feature, in our opinion, to impugn the motives, or to question the enthusiasm of that holy zeal, which spread with electric fire through every rank and condition of Christendom, from the undaunted Coeur de Lion down to the most humble subaltern. The unspeakable sufferings they endured, to recover the tomb of Christ from the possession of the Saracen, and the readiness and willingness with which,

in order to effect this hallowed object, even the wealthiest and most noble abandoned the luxuries of home and all the endearments of wife, children, and kindred, to shed their blood on Syria's sands, in the holy service of the Lord, are incontestable proofs of the sincerity and purity of their intentions. What soul-absorbing devotion breathes in every line of their prayers and vows! Thus said the crusader, when, parting with everything he possessed on earth, castle, lands, wife, and children, he set out upon his journey for Palestine:

Malta, as a residence for the pulmonary invalid, has, from its insular position and remoteness from mountain elevations, superior advantages over any part of the Mediterranean coast which we visited. The mild and equable temperature and delicious softness of the climate the whole year round, with the excellent accommodations, delightful society, and facilities for exercise in the open air, ought to make it a place of desirable resort for the class of patients whom we have designated. The range of the thermometer is seldom over 80° of Fahrenheit, or below 60°. Among the delightful rides on this island, that from Valetta to the celebrated bay where the great apostle Paul is stated to have been shipwrecked, while on one of his sacred journeys to spread the Gospel light and the glad tidings of salvation, must be particularly cheering and refreshing to the Christian invalid.

X

GREECE.

FROM Malta I took shipping, in the French steamship of war Leonidas, for the Archipelago. From distress of weather we were obliged to put into the Island of Milo. From thence we passed on to Syra.

Syra is, like scores of the other islands in the Archipelago, a barren and forbidding rock, almost destitute of the least cultivation, having on the harbour side two small, curious Greek towns, the old and the new; the former on the shore, the latter on the side of the mountain, and reaching near to the top. The houses are small, white stone edifices, built without order or regularity, or any reference to streets for carriages, most of them being only intended for the passing of mules and human pedestrians. Those islands which are inhabited, and have clusters of houses, are cheering as you approach them from the dreary monotony of the watery waste. Syra is now made of some importance by the French and Austrian steamers, which meet here from various points of the Mediterranean and the Adriatic.

On our arrival at Syra, we found there would not be any conveyance to Athens for seven days, as the regular boat had left the evening before. Our voyage from Malta was retarded by most tempestuous weather, and we had been compelled to put into the Island of Milo for shelter from the storm. A Greek prince who came on with us from Malta being as anxious as ourselves to get on to Athens, undertook to procure for that purpose a suitable conveyance for us all. He accordingly went on shore at Syra with that intent, and what did he

get?

An open boat, which, however, he assured me was perfectly safe, and a usual conveyance.

When I arrived by the side of her from our steamer, I positively refused to go; but his confidence and the willingness of my companions made me yield, though contrary to my better judgment. The wind, however, being fair, all seemed to hope for a speedy trip. In we all got with our baggage, and in a few moments were under full sail out of the harbour of Syra. The boat was literally crammed, what with my companions and my servant Henry, the prince and his servant, three young Italians with their two servants, also on their way to visit Greece. Together with those we have enumerated, there were also thirteen Greek passengers, including four women. Such confusion, such utter want of comfort, I never saw or experienced, and did not expect to find at my time of life. Boxes, trunks, portmanteaus, and the entire effects of one or two whole Greek families on board, were rolling and tumbling about in every direction, so that there was no room to sit down, and scarcely any to stand.

In this condition we started at two P.M., and in this landed at the Piræus, the port of Athens, the next afternoon about five, having passed the night in the most uncomfortable manner, without anything to sleep upon but the heaps of luggage, and with the starry canopy for our roof; the weather fortunately proving favourable until half an hour before we landed, when it commenced pouring in torrents. The boat proved to be a good sailer and safe. But the filthy and wretched condition of the Greeks on board, and our close proximity to them, created an atmosphere that not even the fragrant gales of "Araby the blest" would have rendered endurable.