THE HEIGHTS.

What radiant band of peaceful light

Is that which beams so bright beneath? "Tis Umzimvoobo in his might, Spreading around his süver wreath.

guns, and several pigs of ballast, are visible at ON VIEWING THE UMZIMVOOBO FROM low water. Proceeding a little further, we passed a stranded whale, lying high up among the rocks, part of the blubber only (about the head and shoulders) having been taken off their whitened bones are frequently seen strewed along the beach. The late heavy rains had so filled the rivers, that, although it was about the spring tides, we found the Umsecaba but barely fordable at low water, and were obliged to go considerably round in order to cross the next, though a much smaller stream. Both this and the second river to the southward of the Umsecaba are free from rocks at their entrance, and appear to be accessible for boats: in one of them, I am informed, a boat has landed for the purpose of procuring wood and water.

In the evening we reached Umnooka's, and truly rejoiced was I again to behold the habitations of men, and the human face divine, although disfigured by red clay and ornaments of fat. My former hut was now again prepared, and I crept into it with as much satisfaction as though it had been a well-furnished lodging, more especially as I was again thoroughly wet through, and the rain was still descending. After the lapse of ten weeks since I was in this neighborhood, I had fain expected to have heard that the Kafir war was at an end; but by the representations here given, it appears to be still undecided, so that my sanguine expectations of speedily reaching the colony are again dissipated. Umnooka on this occasion retrieved his character, and treated us very handsomely. Travelled twenty-four miles.

In mountains cradled-placid still
His faithful breast their image holds;
He seems to stray against his will,
Entangled in their rocky folds!

"Tis thus the living streams of grace,

Though straitened in their passage, glide;
Opposed-obstructed-still they trace
Their heavenward course, whate'er betide.

But soon will dawn a brighter day-
And faith discerns the promise nigh-
When every mountain shall decay,

And valleys shall be raised on high!

And peace shall flow a mighty stream,

Till all the earth with joy resound; And rays of righteousness shall beam, Where darkness to be felt was found

Soon may that glorious day appear!
Hasten thy chariot wheels, O Lord!
Thy people's prayer in mercy hear-
Send forth thy light and truth abroad.

As waters fill the ocean now,

Then peaceful floods of joy shall flow; And every knee to Thee shall bow,

And every heart with rapture glow!

Friday, 6th.-On the cessation of the rain, about ten, we set forward. Judging, from the slipperiness of the ground, the steep hills, and intricate woods through which it would be necessary to pass, that but little progress would now be made by the pack-oxen, I procured two guides from the On reaching the Gümkülo, found Fakû in grand first Amaponda village we came to, and leaving consultation in the midst of a large assembly, the party to follow as they could, pushed on with seated on the ground. He met me on my apthem to Mr. Fynn's place, which I reached soon proach, and taking my hand as I alighted, again after sunset. Unfortunately, these guides, as like-seated himself, and motioned me to do the same, wise the other brought from Umnooka's to conduct the party behind, knew only the lower road, which is more thickly wooded and hilly than that which I had formerly travelled; and even this it became necessary to leave for some distance, in order to avoid a river which at this time was unfordable. The great part was a perfect scramble -so close and tangled were the trees that, in forcing a passage, both my saddle pockets were scraped off, and my poor horse, led by one of the guides, was so frequently on his haunches in a sliding attitude, that I thought it almost impossible that he could escape without a broken limb. On passing some ground sown with sweet potatoes, my two companions eagerly raked them up with sticks, rubbed off the mould, and then commenced eating them raw-their obliging offer to join them in this impromptu meal was, however, declined, in anticipation of something more digestable at the end of my journey.

Saturday, 7th.-Set out early with two fresh guides. Found the Umzimvoobo considerably higher than when I last crossed-it has, I understand, already been impassable for eight or nine days.

apparently highly amused at my unexpected return. After a few minutes of signs and broken Kafir, intermixed, our conference ended, and I made the best of my way to Bunting, where I arrived at about three o'clock, to my great satisfac tion and the no small surprise of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton. Thus has mercifully ended this most anxious journey. All our grain was expended, and no other supply remained, excepting a few of the calves, which were kept in reserve for a time of need.

Sunday, 15th.

Hope that maketh not ashamed.”— Rom. v. 5.

There is a hope that never fails-
A sure and certain stay;
Not all the grief that life assails
Can dim that heavenly ray.

E'en in the the darkest night 'tis seen,
And brightest then appears;'
The very clouds that intervene
Reflect the light that cheers.

It is that hope which faith imparts,
By Jesus' blood made sure;
That glows within our aching hearts,
And makes us feel secure-

A hope, through Christ, of pardon sealed,
Of strength sufficient for our day,
That grace shall make each trial yield
Experience in the heavenly way.

This is the hope the Christian knows,
While journeying through this vale of tears;
His solace 'mid the deepest woes,-

The antidote for all his fears.

How sweet the inward calm that reigns,
When we can cast on God each care!
No trial harms-for faith explains,

And marks the hand of mercy there!

Full well he knows not aught shall fail
Of ev'ry promise that he pleads;
The tempest may awhile prevail,

But rest and peace the storm succeeds.
Thanksgiving, then, his sweet employ-
With grateful praise his heart o'erflows;
The hope that grief could not destroy,
With purer, brighter ardor glows.

What then that meed of heavenly love,
Which through eternity shall swell;
The joy of ransomed souls above,

Who in their Father's presence dwell!
Oh think, my soul, on that bright day,
And, though oft fainting, follow still,
The promise will not long delay-
Jesus will every word fulfil.

So shall each Bochim by the way,
To grace an Ebenezer raise,
And God alone will be thy stay-

His truth and faithfulness thy praise;
And when from earthly trials freed,
Thou wilt be blessed with Christ indeed!

Conducted the native service morning and afternoon,

of the station; and that if anything should happen either to Mr. Tainton or his family, they should answer with their lives. Since the marriage of his daughter to Tpai, a more friendly feeling seems to exist between the Amapondas and Amahoash, who are now said to have arranged a simultaneous attack upon all the tribes on the sea coast, between the Umtagychi and the Bashee rivers, professedly to chastise this daring insult upon his “children.” This morning I had ridden to the Gümkolů; and on my return was most agreeably surprised at the arrival, a few minutes previously, of Mr. Palmer's servant, announcing the near ap proach of himself and Mr. Davis (Wesleyan missionaries) direct from the colony. Attended by five other mounted natives, they soon after made their appearance; and their cordial welcome, circumstanced as we were, may well be imagined. All assembled to congratulate them, not only on their safe arrival, but on being the voluntary bearers of the first intelligence of our release from a state little differing from captivity. Notwithstanding all the reports of the natives to the contrary, it appears that a treaty has been entered into with Kheeli; and since the 10th of May last all actual hostilities have ceased. The country, however, was in too unsettled a state, and the feelings of the intermediate tribes too much excit. ed to have rendered it prudent for any, excepting an armed force, to have traversed the country previously. They had been sixteen days on the road -purposed a speedy return; and I felt happy in the opportunity thus offered me of accompanying them back to Graham's Town. In the midst of this pleasing intelligence heavy tidings have reached me, for which, however, I was not altogether unprepared. My valued friend, Mr. Berkin, is no more!-the vessel which conveyed him from Port Natal, in March last, having never been heard of since. I have thus lost a most esteemed friend and companion; but I doubt not he has gained an immortal inheritance undefiled, and that fadeth not away. So unexpected a termination of his mortal career calls loudly upon me also to "prepare to meet my God!" What, though no earthly memorial shall record the day or the place in which he exchanged his tabernacle of clay for a house not made with hands, eternal in the heavens-his mental acquirements, his amiable character, and, above all, his genuine piety, will embalm his memory, and render it dear to all who were privileged with his acquaintance; and his name is already enrolled among those of whom, in the language of inspiration, it has been said, "These all died in faith." "The righteous man perisheth, and no man layeth it to heart; and merciful men are taken away, none considering that the righteous is taking away from the evil to come. He shall enter into rest.."-Isaiah, lvii. 1, 2.

Monday, 16th. The large assembly in which I found Faku and his principal chiefs on the 7th, had, I understand, been convened in order that they might undergo the ceremonies previous to going out to war; and on this occasion, among other equally absurd rites, each individual received several gashes across the leg. It appears that Tangwani (Faku's brother,) in conjunction with some minor chiefs, have, contrary to Faku's wish, been making clandestine attacks upon the Amatembu; in the last, which has recently occurred, they were not only unsuccessful, but lost several men; and their opponents are now following up Thursday, 17th-The locusts have been and their success by sending out small nightly parties still are very numerous in this part of the country: to steal cattle in this neighborhood. Not many they had not advanced beyond the Umtata when nights ago the drag chain was stolen from a I was last here, but have now extended their rawagon standing close to the Mission Buildings, vages to the Umzimvoobo. The Amapondas and the horses taken from the cattle-fold, close to make no scruple in eating them, although they the native huts, by a party of these freebooters. will refuse fish, deeming it unclean: the usual So much enraged was Faku on hearing the ac-method is to grill a number of them together on count, that he declared that the natives residing the fire. The black-beetle of this country has on the place should be responsible for the safety a particular instinct, well known I conclude to

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naturalists, by which it will roll a ball ten or twelve themselves suffering many privations consequent times its own size, conveying it to a considerable upon the exhaustion of their accustomed supplies, distance, and that on the most scientific principles; I shall ever feel grateful. On turning to take a one of them bearing with its head and fore-legs last view of the missionary station from the neighupon the ground, pushes it forward by its hind-legs, boring heights, I could not but feel that I while the other crawls upon the ball in an opposite leaving a spot which had often proved a welcome direction; thereby imparting by the weight of its asylum, and on which I can never reflect but with body an additional impetus to the advancing a sense of gratitude and pleasure. Although fine hemisphere, beyond which it never ascends. when we started, the rain soon recommenced; These balls are generally composed of manure; and from the quantity which had already fallen, and it is supposed that in them their eggs are the path in many places were complete waterenveloped; but this fact I have not ascertained. courses, and so slippery that it was with difficulty A Newton himself could not have displayed a we could prevent our horses from falling. The more practical acquaintance with the power of night had closed upon us before we reached the gravity; but surely He, from whom Newton and Umtata; and so dark was it on descending the all the wise-hearted of the earth have obtained wooded slope to the river, that I more than once, their knowledge, has implanted this remarkable while leading my horse, struck against the haunch instinct. This afternoon the wagons arrived, of that which was preceding, unconscious that it had been obliged to make a considerable circuit to be impassable; at all events, under present -they was immediately before me. The river was said to the eastward, reaching the coast at the mouth circumstances, it would have been madness to of the Umtavoomi. The oxen have frequently have made the attempt. There are no inhabitants been obliged to swim in fording the rivers, and in this part, and as the rain, which had never inmy baggage of course has been as often submerg- termitted, was still falling, we were obliged to ed. As the missionaries now here are the only content ourselves with the questionable protection individuals who have as yet attempted to pass of a clump of mimosa bushes, where without a fire through Kheeli's country since the cessation of (there being no posssibility of kindling one,) we hostilities, and there is little doubt that had they made our bivouac for the night, not been recognised as such they would have been stopped, I give up all idea of forwarding the wagons, at least for the present, and make preparations for starting with them on horseback to-morrow morning.

Thursday, 19th.-This morning Faku, with a few attendants only, visited the station. His first request was, that I would give him some cattle, having doubtless heard of the arrival of my wagons with four spans, an unusual number. An ox, as is customary, was presented to him by Mr. Tainton, and killed on the spot for himself and party; but still urging his request, notwithstanding I had given him a string of uniform buttons, I desired an ox to be brought, which was presented under a condition of its being immediately killed. This unfortunate beast, while drinking in the Tugăla, before it came into my possession, had been so beset by alligators, that it was a wonder to all, who had observed its perilous situation, that it had ever escaped their fangs. When nearly overpowered, and about to be drawn into the stream, as a last resort, a musket was discharged, when they all instantly quitted their prey, the last alligator biting his tail short off as he followed his companions into the water. The torture which this privation must occasion at this season, when the flies are so numerous and troublesome, had long decided me on having him killed as soon as his services were not absolutely requisite. As soon as Mr. Palmer had finished his conference with Faku, I took my leave also. He gave me his hand with great cordiality, requesting me to inform the Great Chief that he should certainly make an attack on all the tribes between him and the coast, as far as the Bashee; but that he should not molest Ferdana, as he had originally intended. We were thus detained until half-past twelve, when I once more took my leave of Mr. and Mrs. Tainton, to whose hospitality I have been so often indebted and for whose continued kindness, though 57-7

with the exception of a camblet cloak, being perFriday, 20th.-Every article of my clothing, fectly saturated with rain, I thought it prudent, instead of lying down in this humid state, to divest with the saddle for a pillow, I slept soundly until myself of all, and rolling myselfup in the said cloak, day-light, when, from the continuation of the rain and the profuse dripping from the trees, I found the saddle completely wet, and the water trickling under my head. Having so many inducements to quit our comfortless quarters, which we agreed to name the "Bathing-house," we soon descended to the river, which we found but barely practicable, and, wading across breast high, succeeded in dragging the horses through the rocky channel, in which operation our entire paraphernalia was for some time under water.

still in existence, we should soon have restored the
Had the missionary buildings at Morley been
contents of our saddle-bags--but all, excepting the
chapel, had been burnt during the late disturb
ances; and we had to content ourselves with the
shelter of a native hut at a short distance from the
station.

(about four miles distant) is steep, and commands
The ascent fom the river to Morley
some of the finest scenery in this country. Per-
pendicular cliffs of a red color, rising among trees
and underwood, among which are many of the
euphorbia class, margin the stream.
taracts, now filled by the rain, were gushing from
Several ca-
the highest points; these, with the graceful wind-
ings of the impetuous river, traced for some dis-
tance from the heights, combined to form a most
enchanting and romantic prospect, which a short
interval from rain at this time enabled me in some
degree to enjoy. This is the first Amatembu vil-
lage in this direction, and to the narrow limits of
a native hut we were confined as close prisoners,
on account of the rain, for the greater part of the
day, enduring a temperature approaching to that
of an oven, which for the sole benefit of our clothes,

"When thou art converted strengthen thy bre- part, and I soon after gained a rocky ledge, by thren." (Luke xxii. 32.)

hours he made his appearance, accompanied by a respectable train, all well provided with assegais. His figure is tall and well proportioned-his countenance puerile and vacant; he approached in somewhat a formal manner, preceding his two brothers, who were closely followed by the rest of his party. The three chiefs appeared in panther-the witch doctor had just arrived to purify the skin mantles (the fur inside,) and each carried a single assegai in his hand. How strangely do circumstances vary our relative position. I was now in amicable converse with the very people who, during my last visit to this place, are said to have been meditating my death. This account, which I have every reason to believe is correct, was brought to Bunting after I had left for Port Natal, by a native named Sotchangan, and who declared that he was himself present during the deliberation which took place on the subject before Ferdana.