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guns, and several pigs of ballast, are visible at ON VIEWING THE UMZIMVOOBO FROM low water. Proceeding a little further, we passed

THE HEIGHTS. a stranded whale, lying high up among the rocks, part of the blubber only (about the head and What radiant band of peaceful light shoulders) having been taken off-their whitened Is that which beams so bright beneath! bones are frequently seen strewed along the beach. 'Tis Umzimvoobo in his might, The late heavy rains had so filled the rivers, that, Spreading around his süver wreath. although it was about the spring tides, we found the Umsecaba but barely fordable at low water, In mountains cradled-placid still and were obliged to go considerably round in order His faithful breast their image holds; to cross the next, though a much smaller stream.

He
seems to stray against his will

, Both this and the second river to the southward

Entangled in their rocky folds ! of the Umsecaba are free from rocks at their entrance, and appear to be accessible for boats: in

'Tis thus the living streams of grace, one of them, I am informed, a boat has landed for

Though straitened in their passage, glide ; the purpose of procuring wood and water.

Opposed-obstructed—still they trace In the evening we reached Umnooka's, and Their heavenward course, whate'er betide. truly rejoiced was I again to behold the habitations of men, and the human face divine, although But soon will dawn a brighter daydisfigured by red clay and ornaments of fat. My And faith discerns the promise nighformer hut was now again prepared, and I crept When every mountain shall decay, into it with as much satisfaction as though it had And valleys shall be raised on high! been a well-furnished lodging, more especially as I was again thoroughly wet through, and the rain And peace shall flow a mighty stream, was still descending. After the lapse of ten Till all the earth with joy resound; weeks since I was in this neighborhood, I had fain And rays of righteousness shall beam, expected to have heard that the Kafir war was Where darkness to be felt was found at an end; but by the representations here given, it appears to be still undecided, so that my san

that glorious day appear! guine expectations of speedily reaching the colony Hasten thy chariot wheels, O Lord ! are again dissipated. Umnooka on this occasion

Thy people's prayer in mercy hearretrieved his character, and treated us very hand

Send forth thy light and truth abroad. somely. Travelled twenty-four miles. Friday, 6th.-On the cessation of the rain,

As waters fill the ocean now, about ten, we set forward. Judging, from the Then peaceful floods of joy shall flow; slipperiness of the ground, the steep hills, and in And every knee to Thee shall bow, tricate woods through which it would be necessary And every heart with rapture glow ! to pass, that but little progress would now be made by the pack-oxen, I procured two guides from the On reaching the Gomkulo, found Fakü in grand first Amaponda village we came to, and leaving consultation in the midst of a large assembly, the party to follow as they could, pushed on with seated on the ground. He met me on my apthem to Mr. Fynn's place, which I reached soon proach, and taking my hand as I alighted, again after sunset. Unfortunately, these guides, as like-seated himself, and motioned me to do the same, wise the other brought from Umnooka's to con- apparently highly amused at my unexpected reduct the party behind, knew only the lower road, turn. After a few minutes of signs and broken which is more thickly wooded and hilly than that Kafir, intermixed, our conference ended, and I which I had formerly travelled ; and even this it made the best of my way to Bunting, where I arbecame necessary to leave for some distance, in rived at about three o'clock, to my great satisfacorder to avoid a river which at this time was un- tion and the no small surprise of Mr. and Mrs. fordable. The great part was a perfect scramble Tainton. Thus has mercifully ended this most --so close and tangled were the trees that, in anxious journey. All our grain was expended, forcing a passage, both my saddle pockets were and no other supply remained, excepting a few of scraped off, and my poor horse, led by one of the the calves, which were kept in reserve for a time guides

, was so frequently on his haunches in a of need. sliding attitude, that I thought it almost impossible that he could escape without a broken limb. On

Sunday, 15th. passing some ground sown with sweet potatoes, my two companions eagerly raked them up with Hope that maketh not ashamed."— Rom. v. 5. sticks, rubbed off the mould, and then commenced eating them raw—their obliging offer to join them There is a hope that never fails in this impromptu meal was, however, declined, A sure and certain stay; in anticipation of something more digestable at Not all the grief that life assails the end of my journey.

Can dim that heavenly ray. Saturday, 7th.-Set out early with two fresh uides. Found the Umzimvoobo considerably E'en in the the darkest night 'tis seen, higher than when I last crossed—it has, I under. And brightest then appears ;' stand, already been impassable for eight or nine The very clouds that intervene days.

Reflect the light that cheers,

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It is that hope whicb faith imparts, of the station ; and that if anything should happen By Jesus' blood made sure;

either to Mr. Tainton or his family, they should That glows within our aching hearts, answer with their lives. Since the marriage of And makes us feel secure

his daughter to Tpai, a more friendly feeling seems

to exist between the Amapondas and Amahoash, A hope, through Christ, of pardon sealed, who are now said to have arranged a simultaneous Of strength sufficient for our day,

attack upon all the tribes on the sea coast, be. That grace shall make each trial yield

tween the Umtagychi and the Bashee rivers, proExperience in the heavenly way. fessedly to chastise this daring insult upon his

children." This morning I had ridden to the This is the hope the Christian knows, While journeying through this vale of tears; surprised at the arrival, a few minutes previously,

Gümkola ; and on my return was most agreeably His solace 'rnid the deepest woes,

of Mr. Palmer's servant, announcing the near apThe antidote for all his fears.

proach of himself and Mr. Davis (Wesleyan mis How sweet the inward calm that reigns,

sionaries) direct from the colony. Attended When we can cast on God each care !

by five other mounted natives, they soon after No trial harms—for faith explains,

made their appearance; and their cordial welcome, And marks the hand of mercy there!

circumstanced as we were, may well be imagined.

All assembled to congratulate them, not only on Full well he knows not aught shall fail their safe arrival, but on being the voluntary Of ev'ry promise that he pleads ;

bearers of the first intelligence of our release from The tempest may awhile prevail,

a state little differing from captivity. NotwithBut rest and peace the storm succeeds. standing all the reports of the natives to the con

trary, it appears that a treaty has been entered Thanksgiving, then, his sweet employ into with Kheeli; and since the 10th of May last

With grateful praise his heart o'erflows; all actual hostilities have ceased. The country, The hope that grief could not destroy, however, was in too unsettled a state, and the With purer, brighter ardor glows.

feelings of the intermediate tribes too much excit

ed to have rendered it prudent for any, excepting What then that meed of heavenly love,

an armed force, to have traversed the country preWhich through eternity shall swell ; The joy of ransomed souls above,

viously. They had been sixteen days on the road Who in their Father's presence dwell !

-purposed a speedy return; and I felt happy in

the opportunity thus offered me of accompanying Oh think, my soul, on that bright day,

them back to Graham's Town. In the midst of And, though oft fainting, follow still, this pleasing intelligence heavy tidings have The promise will not long delay

reached me, for which, however, I was not altoJesus will every word fulfil.

gether unprepared. My valued friend, Mr. Ber

kin, is no more !--the vessel which conveyed him So shall each Bochim by the way,

from Port Natal, in March last, having never been To grace an Ebenezer raise,

heard of since. I have thus lost a most esteemed And God alone will be thy stay

friend and companion ; but I doubt not he has His truth and faithfulness thy praise ; gained an immortal inheritance undefiled, and that And when from earthly trials freed, fadeth not away. So unexpected a termination Thou wilt be blessed with Christ indeed ! of his mortal career calls loudly upon me also to

"prepare to meet my God!" What, though no Conducted the native service morning and earthly memorial shall record the day or the place afternoon,

in which he exchanged his tabernacle of clay for Monday, 16th.-The large assembly in which I a house not made with hands, eternal in the heafound Fakū and his principal chiefs on the 7th, vens—his mental acquirements, his amiable charhad, I understand, been convened in order that acter, and, above all, his genuine piety, will emthey might undergo the ceremonies previous to balm his memory, and render it dear to all who going out to war; and on this occasion, among were privileged with his acquaintance; and his other equally absurd rites, each individual received name is already enrolled among those of whom, several gashes across the leg. It appears that in the language of inspiration, it has been said, Tangwani (Faku's brother,) in conjunction with “ These all died in faith.” “The righteous man some minor chiefs, have, contrary to Faku's wish, perisheth, and no man layeth it to heart; and merbeen making clandestine attacks upon the Ama- ciful men are taken away, none considering that tembu; in the last, which has recently occurred, the righteous is taking away from the evil to come. they were not only unsuccessful, but lost several He shall enter into rest..”—Isaiah, lvii. 1, 2. men; and their opponents are now following up Thursday, 17th-The locusts have been and their success by sending out small nightly parties still are very numerous in this part of the country: to steal cattle in this neighborhood. Not many they had not advanced beyond the Umtata when nights ago the drag chain was stolen from a I was last here, but have now extended their rawagon standing close to the Mission Buildings, vages to the Umzimvoobo. The Amapondas and the horses taken from the cattle-fold, close to make no scruple in eating them, although they the native huts, by a party of these freebooters. will refuse fish, deeming it unclean: the usual So much enraged was Faka on hearing the ac- method is to grill a number of them together on count, that he declared that the natives residing the fire. The black-beetle of this country has on the place should be responsible for the safety a particular instinct, well known I conclude to

naturalists, by which it will roll a ball ten or twelve themselves suffering many privations consequent times its own size, conveying it to a considerable upon the exhaustion of their accustomed supplies, distance, and that on the most scientific principles; I shall ever feel grateful. On turning to take a one of them bearing with its head and fore-legs last view of the missionary station from the neighupon the ground, pushes it forward by its hind-legs, boring heights, I could not but feel that I was while the other crawls upon the ball in an opposite leaving a spot which had often proved a welcome direction; thereby imparting by the weight of its asylum, and on which I can never reflect but with body an additional impetus to the advancing a sense of gratitude and pleasure. Although tine hemisphere, beyond which it never ascends. when we started, the rain soon recommencer; These balls are generally composed of manure; and from the quantity which had already fallen, and it is supposed that in them their eggs are the path in many places were complete waterenveloped; but this fact I have not ascertained. courses, and so slippery that it was with difficulty A Newton himself could not have displayed a we could prevent our horses from falling. The more practical acquaintance with the power of night had closed upon us before we reached the gravity; but surely He, from whom Newton and Umtata; and so dark was it on descending the all the wise-hearted of the earth have obtained wooded slope to the river, that I more than once, their knowledge, has implanted this remarkable while leading my horse, struck against the haunch instinct.

of that which was preceding, unconscious that it This afternoon the wagons arrived ; -they was immediately before me. The river was said had been obliged to make a considerable circuit to be impassable ; at all events, under present to the eastward, reaching the coast at the mouth circumstances, it would have been madness to of the Umtavoomi. The oxen have frequently have made the attempt. There are no inhabitants been obliged to swim in fording the rivers, and in this part, and as the rain, which had never inmy baggage of course has been as often submerg. termitted, was still falling, we were obliged to ed. As the missionaries now here are the only content ourselves with the questionable protection individuals who have as yet attempted to pass of a clump of mimosa bushes, where without a fire through Kheeli's country since the cessation of (there being no posssibility of kindling one,) we hostilities, and there is little doubt that had they made our bivouac for the night, not been recognised as such they would have been Friday, 20th.—Every article of my clothing, stopped, I give up all idea of forwarding the wa- with the exception of a camblet cloak, being pergons, at least for the present, and make prepara- fectly saturated with rain, I thought it prudent, tions for starting with them on horseback to-mor- instead of lying down in this humid state, to divest row morning.

myself of all, and rolling myselfup in the said cloak, Thursday, 19th.—This morning Fakü, with a with the saddle for a pillow, I slept soundly until few attendants only, visited the station. His first day-light, when, from the continuation of the rain request was, that I would give him some cattle, and the profuse dripping from the trees, I found the having doubtless heard of the arrival of my wagons saddle completely wet, and the water trickling with four spans, an unusual number. An ox, as under my head. Having so many inducements is customary, was presented to him by Mr. Tain- to quit our comfortless quarters, which we agreed ton, and killed on the spot for himself and party; to name the “Bathing-house,” we soon descended but still urging his request, notwithstanding I had to the river, which we found but barely practicable, given him a string of uniform buttons, I desired an and, wading across breast high, succeeded in drag. ox to be brought, which was presented under a ging the horses through the rocky channel, in condition of its being immediately killed. This which operation our entire paraphernalia was for unfortunate beast, while drinking in the Tugăla, some time under water. before it came into my possession, had been so Had the missionary buildings at Morley been beset by alligators, that it was a wonder to all, still in existence, we should soon have restored the who had observed its perilous situation, that it had contents of our saddle-bags—but all, excepting the ever escaped their fangs. When nearly over- chapel, had been burnt during the late disturb. powered, and about to be drawn into the stream, ances; and we had to content ourselves with the as a last resort, a musket was discharged, when shelter of a native hut at a short distance from the they all instantly quitted their prey, the last alli- station. The ascent fom the river to Morley gator biting his tail short off as he followed his (about four miles distant) is steep, and commands companions into the water. The torture which some of the finest scenery in this country. Perthis privation must occasion at this season, when pendicular cliffs of a red color, rising among trees the Áies are so numerous and troublesome, had and underwood, among which are many of the long decided me on having him killed as soon as euphorbia class, margin the stream. Several cahis services were not absolutely requisite. As taracts, now filled by the rain, were gushing from soon as Mr. Palmer had finished his conference the highest points; these, with the graceful windwith Faků, I took my leave also. He gave me ings of the impetuous river, traced for some dishis hand with great cordiality, requesting me to tance from the heights, combined to form a most inform the Great Chief that he should certainly enchanting and romantic prospect, which a short make an attack on all the tribes between him and interval from rain at this time enabled me in some the coast, as far as the Bashee; but that he should degree to enjoy. This is the first Amatembu vil. not molest Ferdana, as he had originally intended. lage in this direction, and to the narrow limits of We were thus detained until half-past twelve, a native hut we were confined as close prisoners, when I once more took my leave of Mr. and Mrs. on account of the rain, for the greater part of the Tainton, to whose hospitality I have been so often day, enduring a temperature approaching to that indebted and for whose continued kindness, though of an oven, which for the sole benefit of our clothes,

both on and off, we were necessitated to bear. What sweet communion we might share, Had we not crossed the Umtata at the moment How many hours of comfort know, we did, it is probable that we might have been Did each another's burden beardetained some days, as it is reported to be still Did love through all our actions flow. rising. Our present distance from Bunting is estimated at forty-two miles.

How often to Emmaus led

Our ardent steps would willing speed, Saturday, 21st.-The weather being fine, we To speak of One who once has bled, set out at nine, but were considerably delayed in That rebels might from sin be freed. the route, several petty chiefs, who were detained by the rain from visiting Mr. Palmer (their late

And who can tell till that great day, missionary) at the village, as previously arranged, When every thought shall be confessed, now way-laying us on the path. Each came ac How many would have turned away, companied by several attendants—the chiefs, as But for a word in season blessed ? we approached, placing their shields and assegais before them on the ground, and then seating

If, then, our hearts to God are turned themselves until we came up, the attendants of

If Jesus we have precious found, each standing the whole time close in the rear,

And much of grace and goodness learned, firmly grasping the bundle of assegais on which

Let Christian charity abound. they were leaning. I was particularly struck with the commanding and intelligent appearance

Like Samson's wishes—though weak alone, of an individual in one of these groupes, whom I

United, we shall strength impart. afterwards understood from Mr. Palmer was nam The grace and truth which each have known, ed Darka (brother of the head of the village where

Will cheer and comfort every heart. we had slept) and whose character exactly corresponded with his expression of countenance.

Thus oft refreshed from Baca's fount, He had, it appears, been a frequent visitant at the While journeying through this vale of tears, mission-house, where, it was evident, from his re To Pisgah's top we oft shall mount, marks and inquiries, that in point of intellect he And gaze away our doubts and fears. was far in advance of the generality of his countrymen. So great was his thirst for knowledge,

And when our souls shall one by one that he had requested Mr. Palmer to take him

Before our Father's throne appear, with him on his next visit to the colony, and had The song that was on earth begun, actually accompanied his wagon part of the way,

Shall only be completed there. when, on account of the breaking out of the Kafir war, it was thought imprudent for him to advance And oh, what rapture there to meet beyond Clarkebury.

The partners of our grief and care; The natives of the different villages near which To cast our crowns at Jesus' feet, we passed were civil, occasionally bringing amas And own 'twas grace that brought us there! at our request, which, though of a very inferior quality, we were glad to obtain. Although most

Mr. Davis, unassisted by an interpreter, perof the baggage was distributed upon led horses, formed the Kafir service in front of our hut. several of them knocked up, so that, unable to Monday, 23rd.—Fearing detention from the reach Clarkebury, as had been intended this height of the Bashee, we started early. The evening, we turned aside to a wooded hill, under river was, indeed, full-my interpreter and myself which were a few huts, at a quarter past seven, were the first across, He was soon swept off his where we proposed remaining until Monday, the legs, and only gained the opposite bank by swimmissionary station being about ten miles distant. ming; at the same moment I was struggling

against the current, scarcely able to retain my

footing, when two stout fellows of the Amatembu Sunday, 22nd.

tribe kindly came up, and placing their backs

against mine, supported me through the deepest "When thou art converted strengthen thy bre-part, and I soon after gained a rocky ledge, by thren.”—(Luke xxii. 32.)

which the channel is here divided—the other

branch I was obliged to swim. What a sweet constraining power

My object in preceding the party was to enBinds the hearts of Christians here! courage the people who accompanied Messrs. How it soothes each trying hour

Palmer and Davis, not one of them would attempt To feel that we have friends so dear! the passage, although two of the Amatembu had

just crossed from the opposite side before their Bound by one law—the law of love, eyes. After a considerable detention, I was join

They help each other by the way; ed by my companions, who, at both rivers, had
The strength that they obtain above each been assisted by two men, and every thing
Gladly to others they convey.

being safely conveyed across, we again mounted,

and soon reached the mission-house at ClarkeAll members of one glorious Head,

bury. The distance from Morley is about fortyEach shares the pang his brother feels; six miles. Rejoices when the trial's sped,

A message, announcing our arrival

, having been And owns the hand afflicts and heals. previously sent to Ferdana, in about a couple of

hours he made his appearance, accompanied by a twelve, having been unable to procure the horses respectable train, all well provided with assegais. sooner. We had not proceeded far, when we His figure is tall and well proportioned—his coun- observed a number of people collected about the tenance puerile and vacant; he approached in huts of a village we were approaching. On insomewhat a formal manner, preceding his two quiry, we found that one of the houses had been brothers, who were closely followed by the rest of struck by lightning two days previously, and that his party. The three chiefs appeared in panther- the witch doctor had just arrived to purify the skin mantles (the fur inside,) and each carried a place, which was to be effected by killing a beast, single assegai in his hand. How strangely do feasting, and dancing. Thorn bushes had been circumstances vary our relative position. I was placed round the hut in question, which was abannow in amicable converse with the very people doned and not again allowed to be entered. Prowho, during my last visit to this place, are said to videntially no lives had been lost. Other inhave been meditating my death. This account, stances of this kind were noticed in my journey which I have every reason to believe is correct, up, while passing through the Amakosa, in all of was brought to Bunting after I had left for Port which the houses had invariably been abandoned. Natal, by a native named Sotchangan, and who It is probable that the greater part of this coundeclared that he was himself present during the try will shortly be overrun with locusts ; the young deliberation which took place on the subject be- insects are innumerable, and in some places enfore Ferdana.

tirely covered the ground ; insomuch, that many How gracious is that Providence, which pro- of the natives assured us that they should not tects us not only from the arrow which flieth by plant corn this year, as they were not likely to day, but from the unknown and not less fatal ma- | benefit by the crop. chinations of our fellow-men!

Among the cattle great losses have been susTo this unpleasant subject no allusion of course tained; occasioned, as it is said, by the unusual was made ; a fitter opportunity will doubtless oc- cold and heavy rains : probably, the circumstance cur for investigating this matter, as also the sus- of a state of warfare may have contributed to the picion under which he rests of having murdered amount ;—the fact, however, was obvious,—at the two messengers from Bunting. To obtain every village, and frequently by the way, heads from Ferdana, either by loan or by purchase, a and skeletons were strewing the ground; but supply of fresh horses was our aim, and the con chiefly in the cattle-folds, where many whole carversation on this knotty subject was long and cases were still remaining. There has been an tedious; at last he agreed to lend four as far as equal mortality I am told among the colonial catKheeli's great place. `In the present state of the tle, while the districts to the northward of the country, in daily expectation of attacks either Bashee have been exempt. In the afternoon we from the Amapondas or the Amahoash, it is pro- had a drizzling rain, and being now on the skirts bably as much as we could expect; and for which of the Amamaia tribe, we found the frontier vilassistance I have agreed to give him a cow, which lages mutually abandoned. These people, of I shall endeavor to send by the first opportunity. Amatembu stock, though now independent, are a The parley at length being ended, he retired with nest of freebooters in friendly alliance with their all his people; but although a messenger was im- southern neighbors, the Amakosa, and possessed mediately despatched for the horses, there is little of all their treacherous and pilfering propensities. hope, from the distance at which they are kept, So bitter are their feuds to this day with their ciof their arriving before tomorrow evening. Aderant brethren the Amatembu, that the guides surprising change has taken place in the face of sent by Ferdana to escort us to Kheeli's territory, the country ;-all is now green, which when last were so apprehensive of ill treatment that they here was parched and desolate. Still, however, left us at this point to proceed alone. After crossthere is little to recommend the spot on which the ing the Colosa, having travelled during the day missionary buildings are erected. This, I now about twenty-five miles, we took up our night's understand from Mr. Davis, was not from choice, quarters in a dilapidated hut, the best that we another site having been selected for the pur- could select, in one of these deserted villages. pose, but given up on Vosani's expressing a pre Thursday, 26th.—Continued our route at sunference for the present situation. Having been rise, over open downs, the country both yesterday so long accustomed to the scrupulous honesty of and to-day being generally bare of trees. We the Zoolus and Amapondas, I was not prepared soon, however, reached an inhabited district, for the loss of my bridle, which had suddenly dis- which was first indicated by a bush-buck, almost appeared from the fence of the garden, where it exhausted, crossing our path; some dogs soon had been imprudently hung. I believe that the after ascended the ridge in pursuit, followed at a Amatembu are far less addicted to theft than their short distance by several natives, well provided adroit neighbors, the Amakosa ; in all other re- with assegais, evidently on a hunting expedition. spects, at least to a casual observer, they are ex. Having satisfied their questions respecting indaba actly similar. It should not, however, be omitted (news,) &c., we rode on. Several other parties that Ferdana has adjudged a fine of two cows to the came up as we proceeded, all very civil; and person whom Gogu (charged with the care of the some even approached us unarmed, although each station in Mr. Davis's absence) had detected in the of our native attendants carried a gun. After act of purloining a tin mug from the mission-house. resting the horses for about half an hour, we

Since we have been here a heavy thunder again continued our route, and soon obtained a storm has set in every afternoon; they are said distant view of the walls of Butterworth, this to be very frequent in this neighborhood. missionary station having shared the fate of Mor.

Wednesday, 25th.—Left. Clarkebury at half-past | ley during the recent war. As we approached

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