of the world at the temptation. The ruins of a convent are seen at the top, and in the sides are many ranges of caves, one above the other, now inhabited by Bedouins, some of whom came out, and said they would allow us to approach, on the promise of a present. I went part of the way towards them, but as no one would follow me, there was no alternative but to return.

I have visited many scenes of desolation, but this surpasses them all; yet this very spot, we are assured by Scripture, was once "as the garden of the Lord, like the land of Egypt." The sea is called in sacred writ, the Salt Sea, the Sea of the Plain, and the East Sea. It occupies what was formerly the valley of Siddim, in which stood the five cities of the plain, Sodom, Gomorrahı, Admah, Zeboim, and Bala. These guilty cities were utterly destroyed by the righteous vengeance of the Lord, and their very sites have been hid from the face of heaven by waters that are alone among all the waters of the world. The awful prophecy of Moses must needs, when considered amid the scene that here presents itself, bring fear to the mind of the sinner, and conviction to that of the skeptic. "The stranger that shall come from a far land shall say, when they see the plagues of that land, and the sicknesses, which the Lord hath lain upon it, and that the whole land thereof is brimstone, and salt, and burning, that it is not sown, nor beareth, nor any grass groweth thereon, like the overthrow of Sodom and Gomorrah, Admah, and Zeboim, which the Lord overthrew in his anger and in his wrath; even all nations shall say, Wherefore hath the Lord done thus unto the land? What meaneth the heat of this great anger? Then men shall say, Because they have forsaken the covenant of the Lord God of their fathers." Deut. xxv. 22, 25. The Israelites refused to listen to the warning voice, and the prophecy has been fulfilled in the utmost force of its terrible import. "It is a fearful thing to fall into the hands of the living God."

The guard hurried us away from the sea, as they pretended to be afraid of the Bedouins. We returned by a different route. The surface of the ground is a mere incrustation, and as the feet of our horses went through it, they were in constant danger of a fall. There is a low shrub very common, much resembling thyme, with a beautiful small flower. It was not my good fortune to meet with any of the far-famed apples of Sodom, nor with any thing that I could suppose had given rise to the account. Nearer the camp the ground is marked in a most singular manner by the ants, so as to resemble the lines and circles drawn in plans of fortification. The pilgrims were all in quietness by the time we joined them. I was delighted, whilst reclining under the shade of a thorn bush, to hear the voice of the cuckoo, after an interval of years: it brought home-scenes very powerfully to my remembrance.

Towards evening we took a walk upon the plain.

There are the remains of a khan and castle at the foot of the hill. It is thought by many that the ancient Jericho stood in this direction; indeed, the conjecture is highly probable, as Josephus says, "It stands in a plain, but a naked and barren mountain of very great length hangs over it."— There are several large tumuli. Near one of them is a fine fountain of water, which there can be little doubt is the same that Elisha purified, at the request of the sons of the prophets. Josephus says of this fountain, that "it arises near the old city." A tree spreads its branches over the water, and it contains some small fishes. The stream irrigates several acres of land, that produce doura and other kinds of grain, and appear from their richness like an Oasis in the desert. It has formerly been carried to considerable distances by aqueducts, of which there are still many remains, and over a ravine near the camp is one of nine arches, that might still be used. The thorn is abundant, and affords shelter for many small birds. We slept at night as before. Our servant having accidentally set fire to the dry grass, the flame spread several miles, and produced a fine effect.

This

The camp broke up about midnight to return to Jerusalem. The few torches tended only to dazzle our sight, and render darkness visible. The road was dangerous by day, and to pass it in the night seemed to be an absolute impossibility. I was afraid that the people would hurry forward, and not seeing what was before them, would precipitate one another into the deep ravines. was happily prevented by the narrowness of the road at the entrance, for as only one person could pass at a time, the crowd was kept back, and as we were among the first, it was no hinderance to us, and the road was afterwards comparatively free. There was another stream of people that proceeded by a different range of hills, but we could hear their shouts, and see their torches across the dark valley between us. The Bedouins had lighted a fire near the khan of the good Samaritan, round which many of them were sitting upon parts of the ruins. When we approached, as fuel was heaped on, and the flame rose for a moment, we could trace their forms; and as we saw them in their wildness, with their firelocks in their hands, and the knives in their girdles reflecting the flashes of the fire, we could not but feel thankful that their obedience was secured. I was not sorry when daylight began to appear.

The view of Bethany was pleasing, the sides of the hill upon which it is situated being cultivated in terraces. We went a little way from the road to visit the tomb of Lazarus, a cave, and descended to it by twenty-five steps. The houses of Lazarus and Mary Magdalene are also shown. The identity of those places may be fabulous, but it is no

fable that Jesus here wept, and that he is still moved with the same sympathy, mercy, and affection. "For we have not an high-priest which cannot be touched with the feeling of our infirmities; but was in all points tempted like as we are, yet without sin. Let us, therefore, come boldly unto the throne of grace, that we may obtain mercy, and find grace to help in time of need." Heb. iv. 15, 16. The village is now inconsiderable, but the situation is most agreeable. The view of Jerusalem, with which we were soon afterwards presented, was more imposing than usual, as the rising sun was shining with great brilliancy upon the walls, domes, and minarets. The hills were again covered with females to witness the return of the pilgrims; but we turned off near Siloam to avoid the confusion, and entered the city through the gate of Zion.

BETHLEHEM.

I AND my servant rode over to Bethlehem, April 20, a distance of about six miles. It was with some difficulty that I made my way through the gate of the city, as the avenue leading to it was crowded by the horses and camels of the pilgrims, who were detained by the soldiers until their passports could be examined. A Turk took hold of my horse's bridle, and did all he could to assist me, perhaps with the expectation of receiving a present for his services. We crossed over the upper part of the valley of Gihon, and having ascended the opposite hill by a rocky path, found ourselves upon a cultivated plain, which extends about four miles, and is the only pleasant portion of road I had seen near Jerusalem, all the other paths being either situated on a declivity, or obstructed by rocks, or covered with loose stones. There are many erections in the plain, well built, with large stones, some of them having ornamented windows: they might pass for watch-towers, or castles; but I was told that they are all tombs. There are others of a similar description in the plain on the north of the city, but they are more ruinous. At the convent of Mar Elias, near which the cultivation ceases, there is a well of most excellent water, and the road then passes over surfaces of rock. The mountains of Moab were seen upon our left, and between them and us the gloom indicated the near position of the Dead Sea, but I could not from any part perceive its surface. We passed what is called the tomb of Rachael, which may possibly be the place of her interment, but the building is modern. There is a conical hill in the direction of the sea, which is supposed by some travellers to have been a volcano, and the instrument by which the cities of the plain were destroyed; but a friend of mine, who visited it, assured me that there is no appearance of a crater near it, and that on its summit there is a very ancient ruin. It may be the Massada of Josephus, situated on a steep rock, which was fortified by Jonathan, the Asmonean, and rendered impregnable by Herod. It was taken possession of by a noted band of assassins, and when they in their turn were besieged, they slew each other by lot, and the last survivor set fire to the castle.

The neighborhood of Bethlehem produces the olive and fig, in comparative abundance, with the trees planted in terraces. The situation of the place would be agreeable, if the country over which it looks were brought under cultivation, or planted with trees. The valley around it is not large, nor is the hill elevated upon which it stands, as it is in "the hill country," and the summits of many other hills are seen from it, at nearly the same elevation.

The interesting transactions related with so much simplicity in the book of Ruth, took place in this neighborhood. It was in the gate of Bethlehem that Boaz sat, when his kinsman came by, unto whom he said, "Ho such a one, turn aside, sit down here: and he turned aside and sat down;" and then before ten men, elders of the city, he redeemed the possession of Naomi, and received with it the hand of Ruth, the affectionate Moabitess, who had said unto her mother-in-law, "Thy people shall be my people, and thy God, my God." The sweet singer of Israel upon these hills tended his flocks, and here have been heard the soft tones of his harp, and the glad breathings of his voice, as he called upon all creation to praise the name of the Lord. It was in one of these valleys that the glory of the Lord appeared unto the shepherds by night, when they heard the rapturous music of the heavenly host, as they ushered in the Saviour's birth with a song, the appropriate burden of which was glory, and peace, and good-will. In all these coasts mothers have wept over their murdered infants, refusing to be comforted, when the sword of Herod was red with blood, and every stain was from the blood of innocence. It is almost impossible to visit these scenes without referring back to the period when they afforded materials for some of the most beautiful compositions ever written by man, even when under divine inspiration. The heavens, as before, declare the glory of God, and the firmament, in characters as clear as ever, showeth his handy work; but it would be like a mockery of mirth to call upon these barren hills, or desolate valleys, or deserted streams, now to rejoice, for if it were in their power to take to themselves words and reply, they would answer, "How shall we sing the Lord's song under the rule of the heathen oppressor?" The poetry of the land has gone, but the voice of instruction has taken its place, and seems to say to the Christian, in whose heart the Redeemer of Bethlehem again tabernacles in mercy, "Let him that most assuredly standeth, take heed lest he fall." With these events to reflect upon, I wanted no guide to excite my smile, or perhaps my indignation, by some story as probable as a fairy tale; though even with these tales there is connected a melancholy interest, from their having been repeated for ages, and believed by many thousands of deceived pilgrims with as much confidence as the written word.

The town is situated upon the summit of a hill, stretching from east to west, and may contain about twelve hundred inhabitants, a good proportion of whom are Christians. The convent built over the supposed birth-place of our Lord is the most conspicuous object in the view, and with its strong walls and massy buttresses appears to be little in accordance with "the peaceable fruit of righteousness," intended to be the consequence of

the Messiah's advent. I visited it with little interest, having no faith in its pretensions. The low entrance-door opens upon an extensive church, the body of which is ornamented by two rows of Corinthian pillars on each side, ten in each row, and some of them have figures of saints painted upon the shaft. The roof and walls are plain, and the edifice does not appear to be used at present for religious purposes. I was taken through a passage narrow and dark, I suppose for the sake of effect, and thence was ushered into a cave, illuminated with many lamps, the walls of which were hung with pictures, and the floor was paved with marble. The place of the birth of our Saviour is marked by an altar, under which is the inscription-"Hic de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est;" and a few paces from it, cut out of the rock, is the manger in which the holy child Jesus was laid. The exact spot where the star stood to point out the place to the wise men from the east, is now occupied by a representation of the luminary, but it is not HIS star. There are separate churches for the Latins, Greeks, and Armenians; the first is the most splendid. I was shown the cave in which Jerome made the translation of the Scriptures into Latin, known by the name of the Vulgate, and also that into which the bodies of the infants were thrown after the massacre, and different other tombs and sacred places; but it was well that I was careless about their history, as the old Arab who accompanied me was not one of the most intelligent of guides.

The superior of the convent was at first a little distant, as I had put on a coarse Arab dress that I might not attract attention, but he soon relaxed his features into pleasantness, and ordered an excellent breakfast to be provided for me in the refectory, though it was a fast-day, consisting of fried eggs, cheese, boiled beans, omelet, salad, and wine. I purchased a few of the curiosities made here in mother-of-pearl, brought from the Red Sea, and from the sale of which the people of the place derive their principal support. They chiefly consist of rosaries, crucifixes, and scallop shells, carved with devices from sacred history and the traditions of the saints. I was shocked to see many intended representations of the Father, as the familiarity with which the people are brought to regard these mysteries is too manifest in the levity with which they treat all sacred subjects. There was a school belonging to the convent, in which I was pleased to see about eighty boys learning to read and write. In the valley there is a well, supposed by Dr. E. D. Clarke, to be the same as that from which the three mighty men procured the water which David would not drink, but poured out before the Lord, because it was the blood of men that went in jeopardy of their lives; but the doctor has been most unfortunate in nearly all his attempts to fix the localities of the Holy Land. The Bethlehemites are often at variance with the reigning power, which renders it impossible at times for travellers to visit the place, but they were then happily at peace with the men of Jerusalem, and we returned in safety. The country to the south of Bethlehem is well worthy of attention, but it was in too disturbed a state to be visited without danger. In this direction are the pools of Solomon, Hebron, the plain of Mamre,

the cave of Macpelah, and other places of interest. It is said by a recent traveller, that the water ascends in the water-courses of Solomon, though it has been supposed that the principle in hydraulics by which fluids find their own level, was unknown to the ancients. From Bethlehem to Beersheba, the southern extremity of the promised land, is a distance of about thirty-four miles.

GERIZIM.-SHECHEM.

We prepared for our departure from Jerusalem, April 23, and bade farewell to the superior of the convent, after settling all demands. We went first to the Damascus gate, as being the most convenient, but were informed by the sentry that he could allow no one to pass, as he had received orders to that effect from the governor. We told him that we were English travellers, and the order had reference only to the pilgrims. "I cannot help it," said he, "the English are not God." There being no remedy, we retraced our steps with some reluctance, and made towards the Jaffa gate, which we were allowed to pass without a single inquiry. We crossed the bed of Kedron on the north-eastern side of the plain, and had a fine view of the city from an eminence, which has, in some respects, an advantage over that from mount Olivet. The bare aspect of the city is relieved by the appearance of the hills, which, from the position we occupied, are a prominent object in the back ground, whilst the cupolas of the houses, the minarets of the mosques, and the fortified towers, were seen in a light more favorable to effect; but although the city, as seen from this place, presented a more perfect picture for the painter's hand-the poet, and I may say, the Christian too, will love to look upon it from a situation where the different events connected with its history strike the mind with greater power, from the ease which the sites where these events have taken place can be distinguished. I here paused for a moment, and, turning my face once more towards the holy place, bade it a long farewell, probably for ever. "For my brethren and companions' sake, I will now say, Peace be within thee." The road continued over slopes of mountains, others of greater elevation being at a little distance, formed in many parts of bare rock, and in the cultivated patches covered with small stones. We passed several villages. Towards evening we arrived at a pass between two mountains, the rocks on each side of which were high and nearly perpendicular, yet some goats were fearlessly browsing on the verge of the abyss.We had from hence a view of a more romantic and better cultivated country than that through which we had passed. We remained all night at Ain Brood, and slept under an olive tree near the well. The neighborhood does not enjoy a very good reputation. Soon after it was dark, a man came towards us, under the pretence that he was in search of some stray cows. We were apprehensive that, in reality, he had come to number our force, and see whether we were armed, but the angel of the covenant encamped about us, and we were safe.

We had with us a German me