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bas's vizier took a fancy to Anas, bëeh, which had already effected its and caused him to proceed in his ascent of a portion of the cataracts, company homewards.
Anas only and was awaiting the morning to revealed himself at the last moment, complete the more adventurous in time to save the vizier from dis part of that achievement. The grace, and, at length, he and Werd night was dark, and the ride among were married, and returned to live the basaltic rocks somewhat diffiand die in the lovely island of Anas cult. el Wojood, as Phile is always On the 16th, I left the boat early called by the Arabs to this day.” to get to the top of a rock comSuch is a brief outline of the tale manding a view of the whole of the told to me by my guide, as we sat cataracts, and including Philoe and gazing on the lovely scene. The its surrounding crags of Syënite. rest of the day was spent in wan- A wilder and grander scene can dering about the beautiful Temple. scarcely be found. There is a The painted capitals exceeded any- metallic appearance about the black thing I had yet seen of Egyptian shining rocks (which encircle and architecture. The hall in which fill the whole landscape) unlike the they stand was in the days of the scenes of ordinary nature. A few Alexandrian Church) used as a green spots of palms, &c., here and Christian Temple, and I found a there, serve only to heighten the Christian Altar of granite, with the stern severity of the rest, and amid Cross upon it. There are also all this chaotic confusion arises, Greek inseriptions at the various from out its placid lake, the calm entrances to the hall, commemo- smooth Temple of Isis and Osiris. · rating the consecration of the site. In the distance the twin towers of
Thus, there was a time when its pylon (or gate) reminded me of Philoe was a Christian Sanctuary, the square towers of some English and when the choral channts and Minster, rising from the green litanies of the true faith: resounded sward amid some wooded vale, like through the halls and corridors of those which embosomed Bolton, or
Isis, and when the Holy Eucharist Fountaynes, or Tintern. In some of Sion was celebrated over the lights the basaltic rocks of Biggeh tomb of Osiris. What associations and the opposite coast might be seemed crowded together in this imagined to be wooded hills of oak delightful island of the Cataract ! and
yew; but soon the illusion First, the old legend of four thou- vanished, and the calm Nubian
sand years, the mystery of Osiris, towers were once more among the the unnamed one who lies at Philce. primeval rocks of Syënite, twin Then, the Arabian romance of Anas children of old time. We ascended and the lovely Werd. And, lastly, one of the lesser cataracts in the the remnants of a Christian age, Dababëeh and then mounting on when Philoe was an isle of saints. donkeys, proceeded_by_land to;
I dined with Mr. Lewis, the Mr. Lewis's tent. The Dahabëeh, painter, whose tent was pitched bound with cables and tugged by a near the banks of the river. He hundred Arabs, accomplished the had spent some time at Phile for ascent famously. It is a fine sight the purpose of sketching; Both to stand among the rocks watching Mr. and Mrs. Lewis had passed the perilous ascent of the boat. some years at Cairo, and gave me This is a feat which has been acmuch Egyptian information. From complished from the earliest times. their tent I returned to our Daha-.| Herodotus, 2,300 years ago, describes it thus: “ As one ascends the chambers, but I again, and more the river, above the city of Ele- carefully, revisited them. There is phantine, the country is steep, something so mysterious about the here therefore it is necessary to frequent representations of Osiris attach a rope on both sides of a the Judge, and Osiris dead and emboat, as one does with an ox in a balmed that the mind often seeks plough, and so proceed; but if the relief in the assurance that the rope should happen to break, the ancient Egyptians must have emboat is carried away by the force of bodied some early traditional prothe stream.” There is an officer phecies of the Messiah in their called the Reis of the Cataracts strange allegorical system. “The who provides, at a fixed tarif, a earth is the Lord's, and the fulness body of men to haul the boats up thereof :” and the Christian may the stream. The charge is from surely believe, without want of an hundred to an hundred and fifty submission to the teaching of the piastres, that is, from twenty to Church, that even the phenomena thirty shillings of English money. of Egyptian superstition, may have I spent the day at Phile. There been employed in prefiguring the is something so calm and religious event of the Divine Incarnation. in the halls of Phile, and yet it is After wandering from hall to hall, hard to understand that singular and perusing the endless pictures euthusiasm, which, having dis- or carvings of that bygone worship, carded the faith of childhood, revels endeavouring to decipher its mysin a species of veneration for the terious language, I found inexpresreligion of Osiris and Isis. Of this sible relief in pausing, and, for a kind was a certain German whom moment, kneeling before the ChrisI here met, who, while he was in tian Altar, in the great hall of the raptures with the mystery of Osiris Temple. Beautiful is that hall, -his mythical incarnation, death, with its graceful columns and beauand restoration, actually pretended tifully painted Lotus Capitals, but
scorn and vilify those pious more beautiful is the thought, that anchorets, who, within the old here, amid these heathen emblems, pagan peristyle, had erected an is an Altar of the True Faith on humble Altar and a Cross to the which the Commemoration of the despised One Who was indeed In- Deed of Calvary has been offered carnate, and died, and rose for all up to God. The measurements of mankind. I cannot join in the this Primitive Altar of granite, were condemnation of the principle of these : 3 ft. 7 in. long, 2 ft. 5 in. these old Christians in appropri- deep, and 2 ft. 10 in. high. On ating the heathen fanes to the the lintels of the various doorways worship of the True God; and, for opening into the hall, the Christians my part, I prefer seeing the PanI
had rudely sculptured the sign of theon as the Church of St. Maria the Cross, and beneath it, Greek della Rotonda, to being left either inscriptions recording the conseas a ruin, or a restoration inscribed cration of the site to our Holy perchance (as its modern namesake Worship. in Paris) to the so-called “Great Men of á grateful country.”
17th of January. The morning We sailed from Philæe between was spent among the ruins of Philce. eleven and twelve o'clock, and I I was loath to quit this lovely island. long sat on the roof of the DahaI had already wandered through all bëeh, gazing on the receding view,
After leaving Phile, we the ruined portico) entirely exca
of the lovely island and its temples. Near to a small village, consisting We were in Nubia, and, for some of flat-roofed cots built of loose time south of Phile, continued stones, we were accosted by several among rocks of Syenite. We left black ladies, with castor-oiled locks, Dabôd, the Temple of Osiris, Isis, / (arranged in those diminutive curls and Horus, until our return. After seen in representations of ancient a brisk sail we anchored for the Roman head-dresses) who were night near Kalabshee.
decorated with numerous necklaces On the 18th of January, we set and other ornaments, some of which sail early, and had a fine view of they pressed us to purchase. the Temple of Kalabshee. Before We visited the Temple of Garf mid-day the wind fell, and we Hossayn, dedicated to Phthah (the walked on shore and remarked the Vulcan of the Egyptian Mythology). Nubian Sakeeyahs(or water-wheels) | The village of Garf Hossayn lies on which in this less populous country the western bank and occupies the do the work of irrigation, which in site of the ancient Tutzis. The Egypt is accomplished by the fel- Temple is (with the exception of lahs. constantly heard their creaking, vated in a rock rising behind the semi-musical, sound. The perpen- village. It was the first rockdicular wheel to which, at intervals, temple I had seen,
and I earthen jars, for raising the water, agreeably surprised with the inare attached, is turned by a hori- terior of the fane. It dates from zontal wheel acting by means of the reign of Ramases the Great, cogs, to which a couple of bullocks (B. C. 1355), and is therefore some are harnessed. The sound of these three thousand two hundred years coming across the water is some- old, and is probably far more comtimes like that of distant bells. plete than any Saxon, or The vegetation on the banks is very Norman, remains in England. The luxuriant. The hottest day we had sanctuary still contains the four yet experienced.
idols with an altar before them. 19th of January. We had passed The great hall is supported with the Temple of Dendoor in the night Osirides rudely executed, but diviintending to see all the Temples on ding the space into nave and aisles. our return. During the morning In each of the aisles are four niches we tracked along the eastern bank containing a Triad of Divinities and walked on shore. The Nile sculptured in high-relief. Between valley in Nubia is very narrow, this great hall and the sanctuary, but here it was wider than we had is a small inner hall with two yet seen it above the Cataracts. columns opening into four side The vegetation is far more advanced chambers or cellæ. The walls are, than in Egypt, and the palms much as usual, sculptured with figures finer trees
than any south of Aswan. in low-relief, but the whole is The fields of purple-flowering beans much obscured with smoke. Our smelt delicious, and there is a own torches added their quota to pleasant freshness spread around the blackness. The four great idols the creaking Sakeeyah's as they of the sanctuary are Phthah (the raise the cool waters of the Nile. Lord of Truth) called Vulcan by The wheels are frequently shaded the Latins, but without good reason with gourds and other creepers, for -Herodotus had Grecized his name the sake of protecting the oxen and into Hephæstus through that fondtheir driver from the scorching sun. ness for Grecizing all names which
characterized his countrymen, much the middle of the night, with the as it does our French neighbours Reis, who would not avail himself at the present day to Gallicize all of the wind, when pressed to do so names-Athor, the Queen of by the Dragoman. There was a Love; Leontecephale, the beloved regular battle and left his of Phthah ; and Anoukè. This bed, and supporting the Dragoman, Temple may possibly have been a broke his cane over the captain's rude copy of the Great Temple of head, and knocked him down with Phthah at Memphis, the most his fist, giving him a bloody nose ancient and the most famous in all
and black eye.
About breakfast Egypt, according to Herodotus and time, we met the boat, of an English others. One may almost picture merchant, Hawajee H, (as he the old worship in these perfect was called), of Alexandria, and temples of the bygone faith. The while we went on board to deliver modern villagers of Garf Hossayn some letters to the gentleman, our worship each Friday, in their poor Reis came and threw himself Mosque. The people of Tutzis prostrate at the feet of the merchant, probably attended their temple on to implore him to intercede with us, festivals, the more frequent solem- and to explain to us that the Dragonities being committed to the caste man, and not himself, was in fault. of the priests. The old faith of We heard afterwards, that the Egypt was essentially a priest-faith, sailors were pleased that the Reis and yet Herodotus considered the should thus have been chastised, Egyptians the most religious people for that he was very unpopular in the world, as well as the wisest. with them. They have all shown It seems to me a fair mode of judg- great alacrity ever since. ing of the advantages and evils of a priest-faith, as contrasted with an anti-sacerdotal religion, to compare
At breakfast time we came in Mohammedanism, in its effects, sight of the Temple of Amunra, at with such a faith as the hea- Sabooa, (on the western bank) of thenism of old Egypt. The Brah- which we saw the Pylon and the min religion of India is a living Twin Towers. About midday we instance, and the two systems, may were in view of the Korosko range there be fairly tested. I am not of mountains, extending along the aware that Brahminism will lose in eastern shore, and have ever since a comparison with El Islam, nor enjoyed some lovely scenery, more do I believe that the opponents of especially when we found ourselves sacerdotal institutions will find any in the broad reach of the river argument in their support, by terminated by the palm-groves of contrasting the rival creeds of Hin- Korosko, and their mountain backdostan. The greater number of ground, In the afternoon we civilians with whom I have con- walked on shore, where a very versed, (Mr. W— among the narrow fringe of cultivation borders number), prefer, in most respects, the sand-stone rocks of the desert. the Hindoos to the Mussulmen. Sometime before Korosko, the strip
20th of January. The desert of widens into a plain, richly studded yellow sand encroached upon the with palm-groves, and irrigated narrow patches of cultivation. We with numerous sakeeyah's. We passed Dakkeh of which the Pylon- met a caravan of Dongola merchants towers, reminded me of Edfoo. proceeding to. Aswan. Travellers
21st of January. A contest in desiring to go to Dongola or Senaar,
of the beautiful overshad gourds, Nile, w and the nized
22nd along Koros raptur of th remer land! morn dens gourd shadi there twee
lande walk to th yah, ple, III, bas. arm rem sen sha red fred
usually disembark at Korosko, and pression in Genesis xli. 38., conproceed on camels across the desert, cerning the “ Spirit of God,” may to Dongola. Above Wady Halfa, bear allusion to the traditional the Nile makes a considerable bend, knowledge of the Holy Spirit, preand the numerous cataracts also served in the Egyptian creed under impede the navigation. A short the type of the winged globe, or sail brought us to Korosko.
Agatho-dæmon. After dinner, while my com
We anchored off Derr, and on the panions went to see some Nubian morning of the 23rd of January dancing-girls, in the village---a fete
walked for an hour among the corn at which our Reis and sailors all
and bean fields, and gardens of assisted,—I took the most delightful | gourds, all watered by numerous moon-light walk I ever remember, sakeeyahs. We were enchanted along the banks of the river and with Nubia. Later in the day we among the magnificent palms. The passed the citadel of Ibrcem, standmoon surpasses all description, and ing on the summit of a perpenits rays, falling among the shadows dicular rock rising from the river. of the palm-grove are exquisitely This is said to have been the abode beautiful. The sakeeyahs, too,
of Queen Candace, (Acts viii. 27), overshadowed with a trellice of
whose servant was converted by gourds, and overhanging the broad
St. Philip the deacon, and baptized Nile, were some of them at work, into the faith of the “Son of God.” and their monotonous music harmo- It was dark when we passed Aboonized with the scene of loveliness. Simbool, which we were to inspect
22nd of January. We walked on our return. along the eastern bank, between Korosko ard Derr, and were all in raptures with the luxuriant beauty of this part of Nubia. I never remember a summer's day in Eng- “Bishop Morton of Durham, lived land half so lovely as that January a very great number of years, and morning, among the fields and gar- very few ever husbanded their time dens of Korosko. There were better, for he was never idle with gourds hanging from the palms and his good will; so that, if a man shading the sakeeyahs. Of palms, may be said to fulfil a long time, there are 10,000 paying tax, be- that improves his time well, though tween Korosko and Derr.
he die young, how long may we After a sail in the boat, we say did he live that numbered so landed on the western shore, and many years (94) and mispent so walked for two hours over the sand little time as he did ? He was often to the Temple of Amada, at Hassa- up at his devotions and study before yah, a small but very perfect tem- four o'clock, even after he had lived ple, dedicated to Ra and Amunra. above fourscore years; and yet It existed in the days of Thothmes very seldom went to bed till after III., B.C., 1500. The colours of a ten, and then had always a servant bas-relief of Isis placing her left to read some book to him, till such arm over the shoulder of Osiris, time as sleep did surprise him; and remained perfect.
so had he always when he travelled sented as fair, with black almoned- in his coach, that his journey might shaped eyes, while Osiris is deep not be too great a hindrance to his red. The Agatho-dæmon occurs study.”-Barwick's Life of Bishop frequently. Perhaps Pharaoh's ex- Morton.
Isis is repre