our number and strength to resist any act of treachery.

We were bent on going, and the Arabs at last undertook to be our guides for a reward of twentyfive piastres. After an hour's march in the desert, we arrived at the spot, which we found to be a pit or circular hole of ten feet in diameter, and about eighteen feet deep. We descended without difficulty, and the Arabs began to strip, and proposed to us to do the same: we partly followed their example, but kept on our trowsers and shirts. I had by me a brace of pocket pistols, which I concealed in my trowsers, to be prepared against any treacherous attempt of our guides. It was now decided that three of the four Arabs should go with us, while the other remained on the outside of the cavern. The Abyssinian merchant declined going any farther. The sailors remained also on the outside to take care of our clothes. We formed therefore a party of six; each was to be preceded by a guide our torches were lighted-one of the Arabs led the way and I followed him.

We crept for seven or eight yards through an opening at the bottom of the pit, which was partly choked up with the drifted sand of the desert, and found ourselves in a large chamber about fifteen feet high.

This was probably the place into which the Greek, Demetrius, had penetrated, and here we observed what he had described, the fragments of the mummies of crocodiles. We saw also great numbers of bats flying about, and hanging from the roof of the chamber. Whilst holding up my FOL. LVIII.

torch to examine the vault, I accidentally scorched one of them. I mention this trivial circumstance, because afterwards it gave occasion to a most ridiculous, though to us very important discussion. So far the story of the Greek was true, and it remained only to explore the galleries where the Arabs had formerly taken refuge, and where, without doubt, were deposited the mummies we were searching for. We had all of us torches, and our guides insisted upon our placing ourselves in such a way, that an Arab was before each of us. Though there appeared something mysterious in this order of march, we did not dispute with them, but proceeded. We now entered a low gallery, in which we continued for more than an hour, stooping or creeping as was necessary, and following its windings, till at last it opened into a large chamber, which, after some time, we recognized as the one we had first entered, and from which we had set out. Our conductors, however, denied that it was the same, but on our persisting in the assertion, agreed at last that it was, and confessed they had missed their way the first time, but if we would make another attempt they would undertake to conduct us to the mummies. Our curiosity was still unsatisfied; we had been wandering for more than an hour in low subterranean passages, and felt considerably fatigued by the irksomeness of the posture in which we had been obliged to move, and the heat of our torches in those narrow and low galleries. But the Arabs spoke so confidently of succeeding in this second trial, that we were induced once more

to attend them. We found the opening of the chamber which we now approached guarded by a trench of unknown depth, and wide enough to require a good leap. The first Arab jumped the ditch, and we all followed him. The passage we entered was extremely small, and so low in some places as to oblige us to crawl flat on the ground, and almost always on our hands and knees. The intricacies of its windings resembled a labyrinth, and it terminated at length in a chamber much smaller than that which we had left, but, like it, containing nothing to satisfy our curiosity. Our search hitherto had been fruitless, but the mummies might not be far distant, another effort, and we might still be successful.

The Arab whom I followed, and who led the way, now entered another gallery, and we all continued to move in the same manner as before, each preceded by a guide. We had not gone far before the heat became excessive ;for my own part I found my breathing extremely difficult, my head began to ache most violently, and I had a most distressing sensation of fulness about the heart.

We felt we had gone too far, and yet were almost deprived of the power of returning. At this moment the torch of the first Arab went out I was close to him, and saw him fall on his side; he uttered a groan-his legs were strongly convulsed, and I heard a rattling noise in his throat-he was dead. The Arab behind me, seeing the torch of his companion extinguished, and conceiving he had stumbled, past me, advanced to his assistance, and stooped. I

observed him appear faint, totter, and fall in a moment-he also was dead. The third Arab came forward, and made an effort to approach the bodies, but stopped short. We looked at each other in silent horror. The danger increased every instant; our torches burnt faintly; our breathing became more difficult; our knees tottered under us, and we felt our strength nearly gone.

There was no time to be lostthe American, Barthow, cried to us to "take courage," and we began to move back as fast as we could. We heard the remaining Arab shouting after us, calling us Caffres, imploring our assistance, and upbraiding us with deserting him. But we were obliged to leave him to his fate, expecting every moment to share it with him. The windings of the passages through which we had come increased the difficulty of our escape; we might take a wrong turn, and never reach the great chamber we had first entered. Even supposing we took the shortest road, it was but too probable our strength would fail us before we arrived. We had each of us separately and unknown to one another observed attentively the different shapes of the stones which projected into the galleries we had passed, so that each had an imperfect clue to the labyrinth we had now to retrace. We compared notes, and only on one occasion had a dispute, the American differing from my friend and myself; in this dilemma we were determined by the majority, and fortunately were right. Exhausted with fatigue and terror, we reached the edge of the deep

trench

trench which remained to be crossed before we got into the great chamber. Mustering all my strength, I leaped, and was followed by the American. Smelt stood on the brink, ready to drop with fatigue. He called to us "for God's sake to help him over the fosse, or at least to stop, if only for five minutes, to allow him time to recover his strength." It was impossible-to stay was death, and we could not resist the desire to push on and reach the open air. We encouraged him to summon all his force, and he cleared the trench. When we reached the open air it was one o'clock, and the heat in the sun about 160°. Our sailors, who were waiting for us, had luckily a bardak full of water, which they sprinkled upon us, but though a little refreshed, it was not possible to climb the sides of the pit; they unfolded their turbans, and slinging them round our bodies, drew us to the top.

Our appearance alone without our guides naturally astonished the Arab who had remained at the entrance of the cavern; and he anxiously inquired for his ha-habebas, or friends. To have confessed they were dead would have excited suspicion, he would have supposed we had murdered them, and have alarmed the inhabitants of Amabdi, to pursue us and revenge the death of their friends. We replied therefore they were coming, and were employed in bringing out the mummies we had found, which was the cause of their delay.

We lost no time in mounting our asses, re-crossed the desert, and passed hastily by the village

to regain the ferry of Manfalout. Our cangia was moored close to the town, and we got on board by five o'clock. We had been expected for some time, and as it happened to be the birthday of my friend Mr. Smelt, we had intended to have regaled ourselves that day with a more sumptuous meal than ordinary. But we had no appetite to eat, it was of more consequence to consult what was to be done in our present circumstances. That the Arabs of Amabdi would pursue us to revenge the supposed murder of their friends, there was no doubt, and as it would be next to impossible to persuade them we had no hand in their deaths, we all agreed our only safety was in flight. It was resolved we should wait till midnight, and then sail down the Nile for Miniet, the first Turkish garrisoned town we should reach.

Owing to the lazi

ness or stupidity of our Reis, it was however five in the morning before we weighed anchor. This at the time gave us great uneasiness, but was in fact a most fortunate circumstance; for, as will appear afterwards, had we sailed earlier we should certainly have fallen into the hands of our enemies. The wind was contrary, blowing strongly from the north, and we had only made two leagues by seven o'clock.

We now saw four Turks on horseback galloping towards us, followed by two Arabs on foot, and as we made but little way down the river, they were 300n near enough to fire a pistol and order us to bring to. We stopped our boat, and they called to us from the shore, saying they were 2Q 2

sent

sent by the Cacheff to bring us to Manfalout to answer for the murder of our Arab guides. The two Arabs on foot were violent in their threats, and continued vociferating they would have blood for blood, and that they were resolved on our deaths, though it might cost the lives of twenty more of their countrymen. We entered into a parley with the Turks, and demanded of them if they would answer for our safety on our way to Manfalout, and stipulated also that we should be allowed to carry with us our arms. They promised us we should not be molested on our road to the town, and after some demur permitted us to take our swords, pistols, and double-barrelled guns. On these conditions we went on shore, and walked on foot under the escort of the Turks to Manfalout. When we arrived at the house of the Cacheff, we found him smoking in an outer court, attended by a few Arnout guards, and surrounded by about forty of the inhabitants of Amabdi.

The Arabs received us with a shout of revengeful delight.

The Cacheff treated us in a stern and haughty manner, and informed us of what we were accused by the people about him. Through our dragoman we related our story, and produced the firman we had received of Machmoud Ali, Pacha of Cairo. Our passport ran in the usual form, enjoining all the Governors of the different towns through which we should pass to afford us every protection and assistance. A secretary was ordered to read the firman aloud, which when he had done, the Cacheff reaching out

his hand took hold of it, and looking sternly at us, observed sarcastically, "I do not see that this firman allows you either to maltreat or kill the Arabs."

He then poured out a torrent of abuse upon us in Arabic, to the great satisfaction of our accusers, and retired into an inner court, leaving us, as we conceived, to their mercy. The Arabs were most of them armed with swords and spears, and began now to surround us with menacing gestures. Shortly however we were sent for by the Turk, and conducted by some of his soldiers into his presence.

The Arabs expressed great satisfaction at this, and appeared to think our fate was decided. The Cacheff received us on this occasion in a much more friendly manner than at first; he was unobserved by the Arabs, and laid aside the angry tone which we now perceived he had formerly only affected. "My good friends," said he, laying his hand on the shoulder of our dragoman, "I know I am, by virtue of your firman, bound to protect you, and my head must answer for your safety. I believe your story, but I have a guard only of 50 soldiers, and the village of Amabdi is 700 muskets strong. Should all the inhabitants take a part in this affair and come over, the consequence will be fatal both to you and myself; you must make your escape secretly, and in the mean time I will amuse and detain the Arabs."

We saw the force of this advice, thanked the Cacheff for his friendly conduct, and lost no time in making our retreat through a

gate

gate at the back of his house. When we had quitted our boat to accompany the Turks to Manfalout, we had given orders that it should follow us, and now found it waiting close to the town.

We again set sail, but as the wind continued to blow strongly from the north, with little prospect of eluding the pursuit of our enemies.

The Nile here is about two musket shots broad, and we were continually obliged to tack. Though we rowed with all our might we made but little way, and had scarcely lost sight of the town before we observed a party of horsemen at a considerable distance in the Desert, on the right bank of the Nile, whom we took for Bedouin Arabs. Soon after we perceived a number of heads peeping over the sand hillocks on the same side. We were at this moment nearly in the middle of the river, and consequently a little without musket shot. Suddenly several Arabs jumped up and shouted to us to come over, or they would fire upon us.

We rowed our boat as quickly as possible to the other bank, and consulted amongst ourselves what measures to take. Our danger was imminent, we were surrounded on all sides by enemies, our friend the Cacheff at Manfalout was unable to protect us, and the distance to Miniet was seventy miles. If the wind had been favourable, by fast sailing and keeping close to the left bank of the river, we might have escaped our pursuers; but in the present circumstances it would have been madness to continue our course.,

At length it was resolved we should return to Manfalout again, claim the assistance of the Cacheff, or endeavour to convince the Arabs of our innocence. We quickly reached the town, and had no sooner stepped on shore than we were assailed by three women, and five or six children

they were all naked and smeared with mud. We were informed that they were the wives and children of the men who had perished, and the state in which they exhibited themselves was according to the custom of mourning amongst them. As we were armed, we reached without much obstruction the house of the Cacheff, whom we now found surrounded by more than four hundred Arabs, and amongst them the Shekh of the village of Amabdi. Making our way through the crowd, we luckily recognized the person of the Arab whom we had left and supposed to have died with his companions in the cavern. His appearance was most wretched; he was unable to stand, and was supported by two of his friends.

We afterwards found he had escaped by the light of Mr. Smelt's torch, when he was obliged to remain for a short time to recover his strength at the edge of the trench. Our dragoman related our story again, and called upon the survivor to confirm the truth of it, but in vain; on the contrary he maintained we had taken him and his companions by force, and compelled them to conduct us to the place. In this falsehood he was supported by the Arab who had remained on the outside of the cavern, and whom we now saw for the first time among