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which render useless so much of her soil; and the other, and most potent of all, is the spreading of her physical force over too wide a surface.

This latter fatal circumstance arose, not from either neglect or design in her rulers, but from accidental causes which have contributed to widen, weaken, detach, and finally break to fragments this rast empire.

The writer of this article has frequently heard the correctness of the philosophy contained in the latter part of the above extract acknowledged by intelligent Spaniards. Such men account for the deadly influence of the clergy in Spain, by observing that, for three centuries, the most energetic and enlightened of her population abandoned their country and contention with the priesthood, to seek comfort, wealth, and consequence in the colonies. Thus only the most weak, ignorant, and useless of her children remained in their native country.

This drain of men became excessive and instantaneous, after the discovery of America, and continued with no interruption, and with only partial relaxation, up to 1808.

By a double fatality, within a few years after the discovery of America, two aged bigots, Ferdinand the Catholic, and Cardinal Ximenes, who then ruled Spain, banished the peaceable and industrious Moriscoes, and converted the best subjects of Spain into a band of pirates, who have scourged her and many other Christian countries ever since.

The Spanish women, particularly the ladies of Andalusia, constitute the most important and influential part of the population of that country. It is incredible what real difference exists, and what disparity is evident, between the men and women; whether this arises from the known want of stamina and character on the part of the men, their little acquaintance with arts and science, their bigotry, or rather the intolerance in their faith, I cannot say; but there is a coldness about them, a saturnine indifference, not discernible in the females. The men, though reserved, are excessively polite, full of compliment without meaning, and of professions without sincerity. We hear much, and read more, respecting the jealousy of the Spaniards; of their

suspicious nature; their bars and bolts;
their duennas and grated windows: all this
is romance; there is less jealousy evinced
in Spain than in any other country I have
visited. There is no fastidiousness in their
families; a husband introduces you to his
wife with the most perfect confidence;
and to his daughter, if single, with a per-
fect reliance, which is never shaken, on her
virtue, and your integrity. There are sel-
dom instances of an aberration from virtue
on the part of unmarried women; and it is
strangely irreconcileable, that, after mar-
riage, all restraint being removed, women
are seldom found without a lover, or, as he
is called, a Cortejo; and what is most extra-
ordinary, the lover and husband are affec-
tionate friends, frequently inhabiting one
house, and exercising an equality of juris-
diction. Spanish women have, generally,
dark or olive complexions, large black pierc-
ing eyes, fine teeth, which are sometimes
injured by eating dolces or sweets, and a
noble and majestic walk, for which they
are eminently distinguished. They cannot
interest. Their vivacity and sensibility, the
be called beautiful, but they never fail to
unaffected ease of their manners, their ge-
neral politeness and address, joined to the
and copious language in the world, give to
advantages resulting from the most rich
them the most surprising advantages, and
evidently place the men in a secondary
rank and condition. The women dress alike
in Spain; they usually wear black bomba-
sin, or silk petticoats, rather short, and
filled at the bottom, with shot or lead to
give a due weight, or pressure to the gar-
ment; a tight boddice, with long sleeves
of the same materials, or sometimes, for
contrast, of white silk; a half coloured
Barcelona, or bandanna handkerchief, pin-
ned close over their neck and bosom; a black
or white silk veil, thrown over their head,
and brought under the chin, and there cross-
ed, so as to expose the face; white silk
stockings; neat shoes; and a fan in their
hands. Thus attired, they assemble in great
numbers, at the close of the afternoon, on
a long walk, fronting the sea, called the
Aalmada, which is commodiously arranged,
with stone benches, and lined with trees to
make it an agreeable promenade. Here the
whole city is seen, without any discrimina-
tion as to rank or character; and this ge-
neral place of rendezvous affords, to a
stranger, at one view, all that is attractive,
fashionable or elegant. They meet, in sum-
mer, about six o'clock, and the crowd in-
creases until dark. At the going down of
the sun the bells from all the churches chime
the oraceones, or vespers; the crowd stops;
the loud laugh, and the hum of voices, are in-
stantaneously suspended; the air of gayety
gives place to unaffected and pious looks;
each person crosses himself, and says a
short prayer, to return thanks to the Dis-
poser of all good, that another day has
passed in peace. The bell stops in a min-

nute, each person passes the compliment of the evening to the other, the crowd moves on, and again all is life and animation.— No religious ceremony is so solemn, and at the same time, so wholly commendable.Millions passing at the same moment, suspending the hilarity of conversation, the gayety of thought, the tender sentiments of love, to give place to pious reflections, and grateful acknowledgments.

"Religion, in Spain, is a combination of ceremonies, rigidly enforced by priests armed with strong authority. Evening is scarcely set in, before an old man with a lantern, a small tin box, and a bell, visits your house, to receive a donation for souls in purgatory: whether this is appropriated to private or ecclesiastical purposes, I could not discover. Then a procession is formed by boys and priests, carrying a large cross and candles, chanting with hoarse voices, the rosario, or prayers for rain, or other blessings. The host, accompanied by a guard, priests, and crowd, is then carried to a sick person. The passengers, without reference to situation, are compelled to sink on their knees as it passes. The numerous saints are each entitled to certain honours, which occupy a portion of each day throughout the year. This multiplication of religious ceremonies, keeps the mind eternally directed more to the fulfilment of them, than the pure purposes of religion. A multitude of priests and ecclesiastics, of various grades, who fill the houses, churches, and convents, are ever ready to enforce their precepts, and enjoy their rights, by terrors wholly temporal, and ever hostile to the interest and spirit of true religion. The Inquisition, a curse to humanity, and to that country, though stripped of a portion of its former cruelties, still retains sufficient power to awe the free-thinker, or curb the rebellious spirit of religious independence. -The mind still shackled, cannot break the chains of clerical influence: and while education is in the hands of priests, superstition and fanaticism will continue to have a national and local permanency and effect. have looked, with astonishment, at a schoolmaster in Cadiz, who, after the conclusion of his daily labours, sends forth his scholars in procession, marches at their head, and sees each scholar safe to his home. This destroys independence in the bud : instead of permitting boys to find their way home, to encounter some little difficulties, to surmount some trifling obstacles, to establish a foundation for manly spirit and promptness, they are led like sheep, their spirit is curbed, the inquiring disposition is checked, and, in their infancy, they are taught to be slaves, and led by some one in authority. Here the origin of that humble, spirit and obedience to ecclesiastical power, are first traced; and until a radical reform takes place in the first principles of education, Spain will never alter; she will ever be internally weak and puerile; and having no VOL. IV.--No. v. 44

basis, on which an effective national character can be established."

The ecclesiastical influence here detailed, leads to precisely the consequence already noticed. Active, ardent, and enterprising young men, rather than brook such everlasting and heart-chilling tutelage, deserted their country, and left their feeble associates to hopeless submis

sion.

"Society in Spain, offers few of those engaging resources found in more polished and cultivated nations. Social life derives no great charm from conversation-the females are by no means familiar with literature; their conversation is sprightly, and frequently engaging, to which the language adds some charms; but the subjects are generally common-place and indifferent.Their accomplishments seldom extend beyond a slight knowledge of music and dancing. There are no places of resort, except the Theatre, or 'Alamada; no dinner or tea-parties; no costly routes, or pleasant converzaliones. A species of levee called Turtulias, are customary; these are meetings at a private house, on a particular evening in the week. There were two fashionable Turtulias at Cadiz, very much frequented by Americans. At these parties slight refreshments are offered, together with cards and country dances. I saw a priest busily engaged at one of these gaming-tables, and was informed, that gain was the prominent object.

"The Cortez was in session during my stay at Cadiz. The events of the revolu tion, and the absence of the king, had revived this ancient assemblage, which in better times, without possessing much influence, exhibited talents of no common order. It was composed of representatives, civil and ecclesiastical, and also deputies !from South-America. Three Regents were charged with executive duties; one of whom, the Cardinal de Bourbon, a dull and heavy priest, proved in the end, the most faithful to the constitution. The arrest of Ferdinand in France, and the abdication of Charles IV., had entirely deranged the administration of government; and the Spanish people, unaccustomed to the perplexing difficulties of managing internal and foreign concerns, ignorant of their own resources, and jealous of foreign influence, were wholly at a loss what steps to take. The Junta Central was then established, and the Marquis Wellesley drew up for them the best constitution adapted for their genius and disposition. This they rejected from motives of jealousy and suspicion. On the dissolution of this Junta, and the re-establishment of the Cortez, a new constitution was formed, defective, it is true, in

many cardinal points; but sufficiently free for the Spanish people, and confirming rights heretofore unknown to them. The Cortez held their meetings in one of the churches in the city, the doors were guarded by Spanish soldiers, in fatigue dress and with rusty muskets. The assemblage was confused, and apparently without dignity; speakers mounted a species of forum, and I perceived at once, that the number of ecclesiastics scattered on the floor, was of sufficient magnitude to create an undue and dangerous influence-an influence which was exercised to the avowed and manifest injury of that country, and which, if not wholly destroyed, will continue to keep it poor in spirit and in resources-its energy confined, and its independence destroyed.

"There were but few members of the Cortez celebrated for talents. The most distinguished for eloquence, were Cangar and Augustene Arguelles, Quintana, Rosas, and a few deputies from South-America. The two former were, indeed, the most eloquent men I had ever heard; their flow of words was rich and inexhaustible; still, it was evident, that in the fire of debate, in the bursts of patriotic sentiment, there was more enthusiasm than cool wisdom; more spirit than judgment; more energy than discretion. The language, the finest in the world, for parliamentary and forensic eloquence, also added not a little to the charms of debate. A singular and marked difference appeared in the character and feelings of the deputies from South-America. They were of a different order, appeared to think more than their colleagues in Spain; there was a more perfect reliance on their judgment, and they were more familiar with affairs of government. These deputies called themselves Americans, not Spaniards; they associated familiarly with the citizens of the United States, and would generally salute us with the term pisano meo, My Countrymen.

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"At this period, the British, under Lord Wellington, commanded the entire Spanish and Portuguese forces. In a military point of view, every thing around us was British. Muskets and uniforms; guns and gun-carriages; British Commissaries, British gold, and British influence. Notwithstanding the amazing sacrifices made by that government in the Peninsula, notwithstanding the loss of lives and money in that contest, it was incredible to view the suspicion, jealousy, if not hostility, of the Spanish towards their allies. They never failed to refuse any favour they had the power of conferring; they never gave to the British the merit of gaining a single victory; and when it was known, that in battle they have kept at a respectful distance, and suffered the British to bear the brunt, yet they have never failed to step in, and claim an unmerited share of the glory. During the whole contest in Spain, one solitary victory in the field was achieved without the aid of

the British, and that was the battle of Baylen, called by them the glorious battle of Baylen, in which 60,000 Spaniards, under the nominal command of Castanos, but really headed by Reding, a Swiss officer of talents, compelled, Dupont to surrender with 14,000 men. Although merit cannot be accorded to the Spanish army generally, or to the nobility who had command, and who were the least effective, yet great praise is due to the peasantry for the spirit and patriotism which they evinced from the commencement to the termination of the contest; a spirit which neither privation could depress, nor reverse of fortune destroy. They saw their dwellings in flames, their property lost, and their families massacred, without shaking the firmness of their patriotic efforts, or surrendering their country to the control of the invaders. The sieges sustained by the Spaniards, particularly Saragossa and Gerona, were highly honourable to their energy and perseverance; and on the whole, it may be said, that the guerillas and peasantry, together with a few partizan officers, such as Ballosteros, Palafox, &c. were entitled to all the merit acquired by the Spanish in that revolution. The operations of the French in Spain, were directed by a weak policy; not because they have failed, but in consequence of falling into a very common, but frequently a very fatal error, that of under-rating the power, disposition, and resources of the enemy. The French calculated on no ef fective resistance in Spain or Portugal: flushed with victories over more disciplined and more enlightened foes, they encountered a dangerous enemy, in arousing the pride, and wounding the feelings of the people; and what could have been acquired by mildness and deference, force and power could not effect. That the reign of Joseph Buonaparte would have been of singular benefit to Spain, cannot be denied ; he commenced his administration with mildness; he would have gradually, with increase of popularity, abrogated those ancient civil and ecclesiastical usages, which have cramped Spain and robbed her of character-He would have softened the habits, and ameliorated the condition of the people, by the introduction of literature, the establishment of schools, the advancement of the arts, and above all, by throwing open the ports to the enterprising of all nations, by releasing commerce from its shackles, and recalling those people whom the bigotry and ignorance of Spain had banished. These would have been the results of his reign; a view of France, for the last twenty years, justifies the opinion. The Spaniards feit no great abhorrence to Joseph Buonaparte; their ha tred was rather directed against Napoleon, They called Joseph the intrusive king, or familiarly Re Papy, or King Joe; and appeared, in ridiculing his pretensions, to cast no reflections on his character or qualifica-.. tions.

The Spaniards are not the only people who have been duped by words that mean nothing, and which are pronounced in direct opposition to the interests and acts of those who use them. Great Britain stepped forth as the ally and champion of Spain, and the inhabitants of that devoted country never once doubted the sincerity of her professions, nor the disinterestedness of her assistance, though so evidently made and given from selfish views. The Spaniard, proud and jealous of his national character, entered the field under British generals, and madly fought against his own best interests.

Of all the nations on earth, none would more dread, or do more to prevent, the renovation of Spain than Great Britain. The most powerful motives exist to operate upon the minds of the people of the latter, to thwart the real emancipation of the former. Not excepting the United States, no government in the world, if well organized, would be so formidable to Great Britain as that of Spain. A combination of the best results would have followed the quiet accession of Joseph Buonaparte to the Spanish throne, and his continuation at the head of the Spanish nation. All the benefits recounted by our author would have been enjoyed; and, farther, Spain and her onerous colonies would either have been separated, or, by the adoption of more liberal political regulations, the connexion would have become useful to both parties.

All this Great Britain saw, and was interested to prevent; and she succeeded in extinguishing the last hope of Spain, and causing that people to commit a moral suicide, in restoring Ferdinand VII, and the Inquisition. As soon as Spain was left in a state of exhaustion, deprived of hope from abroad, and secured under the bloody, gloomy, and superstitious despotism of her misled masters, Great Britain covertly favoured, and continues to accelerate, the independence of the Spanish colonies in America, For those colonies we have much to hope; but for Spain-remediless depression, intolerance, and slavery, seems to be her destined lot.

"The establishment of the Arab power in Asia, and its rapid progress in Europe teresting epochs in history; but to view and Africa, form decidedly the most inthese people in all their glory and refinement, they must be seen in Spain and under Punic war, which drove the Carthagenians the reign of the Caliphs. After the second from Spain, the Romans held it peaceably for six hundred years. Undisturbed by fotheir helmets laid aside, and their spears reign powers, unused to the science of arms, corroded with rust, they degenerated from the valour and worth of their ancestors, whose hardy enterprize led them through and fell an easy prey to those barbarians, Europe and Africa. Alaric led the Goths the provinces of Gaul and Germany, rushed to Rome, while the Vandals, after scouring like a torrent through Spain, and desolated that fine country with fire and sword. History is somewhat confused, in affordtant cities and provinces in Spain. We ing dates to the destruction of impor find it difficult to de ile, who destroyed Cartea; although it is known that Gondenic, in the four hundred and twenty-fifth year of the Christian æra, destroyed all the important towns in Andalusia, and put the inhabitants of Seville to the sword. Genpassed over to Spain with an army, and seric, who was in Mauritania Tingitan landed near where Cartea stood; that is, on the banks of the Guadarante. I saw the had a battle with the Sueves and overcame spot from where I was seated; here het them; but being compelled to return to Africa, he had no time to improve his barian kings, made a dash at Andalusia, victory. In 438, Richilus, one of the Barbeat the Romans completely, laid every thing waste, and then held the ruined proto throw succours into Spain, and, for a vince. The Romans, however, found means length of time, that country was the sceneof battles and skirmishes between them and the Goths, Vandals, Alans, Sueves, and Silings. In 614 Sigibert attempted to recover from the Imperialists, all that tract of country on the Mediterranean, reaching which he succeeded in obtaining, after a from the Fretum Herculanium to Valencia; contest of four years. The Romans severely felt the loss of their possessions in Spain; it was a loss of power, a decay of national strength; and they made another effort to turn the tide of affairs in that quarter. On the arrival of the Roman' Goths, already in the field, with a powerforces, they found Suintila, king of the ful and well equipped army, against which the Romans did not dare march. Finding the power of the Goths increase, the Ro mans surrendered on good conditions, without hazarding a battle; and, for the first time, the Goths were entire masters of Spain.

"From the contiguity of the two continents, the power of the Goths in Spain, ex

tended also to Mauritania, over which they long exercised an unlimited jurisdiction, This country was regarded by the Arabs with great interest. The Moors who had resided there from the most early periods, bad lel a wandering, but peaceable life; their spirit was broken by the variety of masters which the chance of war placed over them. The Greeks, Romans, Carthagenians, and Vandals, had each by turns exercised unlimited jurisdiction. In the reign of the Ca liph Othman, in 647, the Arabs made a descent in Africa, and conquered Mauritania. The junction formed between the Moors and Arabs, their common origin, similarity of habits, manners, and religion, tended to awaken in the minds of the Moors a desire for independence, and of ridding their country of those barbarous Goths, who were daily committing the greatest excesses. This disposition produced an activity in these allies which led to very important results; and in 708, Moussa, a celebrated and most successful general, arrived from Egypt with 100,000 men, and added to the Arab and Moorish forces already in that country he passed through Mauritania, drove the Goths from Tangier, and found himself a conqueror, with immense resources at his disposal. Then, for the first time, was an eye of jealousy and desire cast on the fine and fruitful provinces of Spain. The Moors, from their mountains, saw the Spanish vallies, their numerous cities and rich commerce, and in a moment of enthusiasm, they formed the vast design of conquering that country. They carried their design with promptness into effect, and in three years, all Spain was in their possession. Thus commenced the reign of the Caliphs; but the causes which led to this revolution, were equally strange and interesting.

"Roderic, known as the last king of the Goths, excluded from the throne the sons of Witiza, whose claim the people recognised, but the nobles opposed. His court was the most depraved and sensual of any at that period in Europe, and every species of corruption, fraud, debauchery, and excess were encouraged by him to that degree, that honour, worth and social order were unknown; the kingdom was shaken to the centre with commotions, and fast verging to that condition as to render it an easy prey to the conquering arms of neighbouring powers. Roderic did not want talents; he was shrewd penetrating, brave, engaging, generous, and liberal; but these were mere flashes of virtue which bis great vices obscured; and at length, he capped the climax of infamy, by offering violence to the daughter of Count Julian, who was at that period an ambassador in Barbary. Historians differ as to the cause of the Moorish invasion; they all unite, however, in attributing it mainly to the conduct of the king, in relation to the daughter of Count Julian; and many ingenious fables, and interesting

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dramas, owe their origin to this singular event. This young lady was named Cava, and was maid of honour to the Queen Egileno; she was esteemed the most beautiful and accomplished woman in Spain, a model of virtue, and engaging manners. The king pursuing his wretched system of vice and debauchery, first removed the father, the Conde Julian, by sending him on an em bassy to Moussa, at Tangier, and then offered violence to the daughter. Deprived of her natural protector, the beautiful and injured Cava retired from court, to meditate on a revenge suitable to her wrongs. She contrived a variety of modes and allegorical devices to inform her father of the violence offered to her; and among them, she wrote to him, that there was a fair green apple upon the table, and the king's poig nard fell upon it and cleaved it in two.' These ambiguous givings-out,' added to other circumstances, created a suspicion in the mind of the wretched father, who obtained his recall, and returned to Spain. Acquainted with the extent of his misfortune, he smothered his resentment until better prepared to act, and representing to the king, that his expensive armaments in peace were onerous to the people, he induced him to lay up his galleys and disband his troops. He then obtained permission for himself and family to visit Taragona, and left Malaga for that purpose. Arrived at Taragona, he collected his friends and relations, and with many followers sailed for Africa. Roderic never suspected the anger or deep resentment which was buried in the bosom of Count Julian; so carefully and successfully did he smother his feelings, and dissemble his passions. Julian arrived in Africa, and addressed himself immediately to the general, Moussa; he represented Spain as prepared to throw off the yoke, and receive the Moors. He stated that his party was powerful and ready to join him, he heaped every vile epithet on the head of Roderic, and satisfied Moussa that his wrongs had been deep and powerful, He repre sented the riches of Spain in dazzling co lours, its fertile provinces, its splendid cities, and awakened that spirit of cupidity, which strengthened the ambitious designs of the Moors, and preparation was made to invade Spain. It was in 713 that Moussa placed twelve thousand Moors under the command of Tariff, or Taric Abenzarca, one of the greatest captains of the age, who landed and captured Gibraltar, and erected the castle, the ruins of which I had lately visited. After leaving a small garri son, he passed round the Bay, and took Cartea, and laid the foundation of Algeciras; as previous to that period, no town or city was erected on the spot where Algeciras now stands. Roderic, alarmed at this visit from the Moors, and ill prepared to resist them, still roused himself from his lethargy and gathered the remnant of his forces, and had several skirmishes with Tariff; at

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